Pakistani biryani: a spicy recipe for delectable debate

In this photograph taken on September 19, 2023, people eat biryani at a restaurant in Karachi. (AFP)
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Updated 28 September 2023
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Pakistani biryani: a spicy recipe for delectable debate

  • In Karachi, where biryani craze boomed after creation of Pakistan, it is the subtle differences that inspire devotion
  • Food historians say biryani served in South Asia’s melting-pot cities like Karachi is a reminder of shared heritage

KARACHI: Eying each other across a stream of traffic, rival Pakistani biryani joints vie for customers, serving a fiery medley of meat, rice, and spice that unites and divides South Asian appetites.

Both sell a niche version of the dish, steeped in the same vats, with matching prices and trophies commending their quality.

But in Karachi, where a biryani craze boomed after the creation of Pakistan, it is the subtle differences that inspire devotion.

“Our biryani is not only different from theirs but unique in the world,” says restaurateur Muhammad Saqib, who layers his “bone marrow biryani” with herbs.

“When a person bites into it he drowns in a world of flavors,” the 36-year-old says.




In this photograph taken on September 16, 2023, people eat biryani at a restaurant in Karachi. (AFP)

Across the road, Muhammad Zain sees it differently.

“We were the ones who started the biryani business here first,” the 27-year-old claims, as staff scoop out sharing platters with a gut-punch of masala.

“It’s our own personal and secret recipe.”

Both agree on one thing.

“You can’t find biryani like Pakistan’s anywhere in the world,” says Saqib.

“Whether it’s a celebration or any other occasion, biryani always comes first,” according to Zain.




In this photograph taken on September 16, 2023, a staff serves plates of biryani at a restaurant in Karachi. (AFP)

British colonial rule in South Asia ended in 1947 with a violent rupture of the region along religious lines.

Hindus and Sikhs in newly created Pakistan fled to India while Muslim “MoHajjirs” — refugees — went the other way.

India and Pakistan have been arch-rivals since, fighting wars and locked in endless diplomatic strife. Trade and travel have been largely choked off.

Many MoHajjirs settled in Karachi, home to just 400,000 people in 1947 but one of the world’s largest cities today with a population of 20 million.

For Indian food historian Pushpesh Pant, biryani served in South Asia’s melting-pot cities such as Karachi is a reminder of shared heritage.




In this photograph taken on September 16, 2023, people eat biryani at a restaurant in Karachi. (AFP)

“Hindus ate differently, Nanakpanthis (Sikhs) ate differently, and Muslims ate differently, but it was not as if their food did not influence each other,” he told AFP from the city of Gurugram outside Delhi.

“In certain parts of Pakistan and certain parts of India, the differences in flavors and foods are not as great as man-made borders would make us think.”

Every Karachi neighborhood has its own canteens fronted by vendors clanking a spatula against the inside of biryani pots.

The recipe has endless variations.

The one with beef is a favorite in Pakistan, while vegetarian variants are more popular in largely India.

Chicken is universal. Along coastlines, seafood is in the mix.

And purists debate if adding potatoes is heresy.

“Other than that, there is Pulao Biryani which is purely from Delhi,” says 27-year-old pharmacist Muhammad Al Aaqib, describing a broth-stewed variation.

“My roots lead back to Delhi too so it’s like the mother of biryanis for us.”

“Perhaps every person has a different way of cooking it, and their way is better,” says 36-year-old landlord Mehran Khoso.

The origins of biryani are hotly contested.

However, it is generally accepted the word has Persian roots and it is argued the dish was popularised in the elite kitchens of the Mughal Empire, which spanned South Asia between the 16th and 19th centuries.

In spite of that pedigree, its defining quality is permutation.




In this photograph taken on September 17, 2023, Quratul ain Asad (L), a homemaker serves biryani for her family members at her house in Karachi. (AFP)

Quratul Ain Asad, 40, spends Sunday morning cooking for her husband and son, MoHajjir descendants of a family that arrived in Karachi from the Indian town of Tonk in 1948.

But at the dinner table, they feast not on an heirloom recipe but a TV chef’s version with a cooling yogurt sauce and a simple shredded salad.

Asad insists on Karachi’s biryani supremacy.

“You will not like biryani from anywhere else once you’ve tasted Karachi’s biryani,” she says.

“There is no secret ingredient. I just cook with a lot of passion and joy,” she adds. “Perhaps that’s why the taste comes out good.”

Cooked in bulk, biryani is also a staple of charity donations.

At Ghazi Foods, 28-year-old Ali Nawaz paddles out dozens of portions of biryani into plastic pouches, which are delivered to poor neighborhoods on motorbikes.

A minute after one of those bikes stops, the biryani is gone, seized by kids and young adults.

“People pray for us when they eat it,” says Nawaz. “It feels good that our biryani reaches the people.”


Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy (center) with his son (right) and longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami (left). (AN photo)
Updated 14 December 2025
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Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

  • Slow-cooked sheep’s head is drawing new generations and visitors to Jeddah’s historic district

JEDDAH: In the streets of Al-Balad, where centuries-old buildings frame one of Saudi Arabia’s most storied districts, culinary heritage continues to draw visitors as powerfully as architecture. 

Among the area’s enduring attractions is Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat, a family-run restaurant that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958, turning a once-necessity meal into a symbol of Saudi food culture and hospitality.

Tucked into Baba Makkah, Al-Balad’s historic core, Al-Shadwy began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. (AN photo)

Now run by the third generation of the Al-Shadwy family, the restaurant remains devoted to a single specialty; sheep’s head, slow-roasted over charcoal using a recipe unchanged for decades.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering.

Sixty-five-year-old owner Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, who inherited the restaurant from his grandfather and father, remains a familiar presence at the restaurant, overseeing the service and greeting customers. 

FASTFACTS

• Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat is a family-run restaurant in Al-Balad that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958.

• It began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

He told Arab News that the dish has been central to Saudi culinary culture for generations.

“The sheep’s head has been a staple in Saudi Arabia and other GCC countries culinary culture for centuries,” he said. “Traditionally, it was a meal served during cold winter mornings to provide energy and warmth. In many regions of Saudi Arabia, the sheep head (is) always on the top of the main plate for guests, and families festive holidays gather in restaurants or at home to enjoy the sheep’s head, making it a social and festive occasion.”

In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering. (AN photo)

Speaking about its significance in hospitality culture, he added: “Serving it to guests is considered an act of generosity and care.” Rich and filling, it is most commonly eaten as breakfast or an early morning meal.

Preparing sheep’s head is a slow, careful process. According to Al-Shadwy, the heads are cooked at low temperatures to soften the tendons and connective tissue, resulting in tender meat and deep flavor.

The preparation includes curing and slow cooking, a method that has remained largely unchanged at the restaurant for more than six decades. 

Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history.

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat owner

“I’ve cooked many sheep heads a while back and I still enjoy it,” he said. “Most of the customers actually prefer the head and the brain.”

Despite its small size and somewhat tucked-away location, the restaurant’s popularity is unmistakable. Long queues form outside each morning, often guiding first-time visitors to its door. A sign reading “Al-Shadwy Mandi” in Arabic marks the entrance, while the steady crowd confirms its reputation.

Over the years, the restaurant has attracted officials, celebrities and social media figures, with photographs of notable guests lining the walls. Al-Shadwy said the steady attention reflections Al-Balad’s growing appeal as a cultural and culinary destination.

He said that interest in sheep’s head is no longer limited to older generations. Younger Saudis, he said, are increasingly curious about traditional dishes, while tourists often see it as an adventurous experience. 

“For many visitors, trying sheep’s head is considered ‘extreme food’ or a challenging dish,” he said. “But it gives them a sense of adventure and a unique story to tell.”

Inside the lively restaurant one morning, longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami, who has been dining there for 40 years, described it as a rare example of authentic Saudi cuisine.

“I am a regular customer here and always come early in the morning because when you eat the sheep’s head it really gives you energy for work,” he said. 

Demand is highest in the early hours, particularly on Fridays. Al-Shadwy said the restaurant often sells out by mid-morning, making early visits essential.

“The number of sheep heads our restaurant sells daily varies but it reaches around 200 heads,” he added.

As he works alongside his two sons, Al-Shadwy says preserving the family legacy is as important as serving the fish. 

“Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history,” he said.