LONDON: From cocoa to tea, food and drink giants are setting their own standards for ethical sourcing of raw materials, moving away from third-party labels such as Fairtrade.
Mondelez International, owner of chocolate brands Cadbury and Toblerone, Unilever, behind tea brands such as Lipton and PG Tips, and Barry Callebaut, the world’s biggest producer of chocolate and cocoa products, have all introduced their own schemes.
They say their targets are more comprehensive and some claim their schemes are more effective in tracking whether a product is ethically sourced every step of the way. With companies under financial pressure, analysts say it has also been a way to save money.
But critics are worried that the standards that third-party groups such as UTZ Certified or Rainforest Alliance have fought to establish risk being muddled and what is deemed ethical and sustainable could become more ambiguous.
“Standards measuring environmental and social issues need to be transparent because, once this process happens behind closed doors, it is difficult to see how companies and farms apply them,” said Sloane Hamilton, labor rights policy adviser at Oxfam, a charity focused on alleviating poverty.
“We don’t want to see standards watered down, and neither do we want customers to be faced by a bewildering proliferation of different certification schemes.”
Third-party certifiers are not opposed to all self-certification, even though the loss of fees could threaten their future. Rather, they are worried standards could become meaningless if too many companies set their own criteria.
Mondelez started selling the first Green & Black’s chocolate in the UK without a Fairtrade logo in August, more than 23 years after the brand’s Maya Gold bar received Britain’s first mark.
The bar instead carries the stamp of “Cocoa Life,” a Mondelez scheme started in 2012 with broad goals including improved productivity, protection of fertile land and gender equality in farming communities.
Mondelez says Fairtrade is still an “implementing partner” and the group’s auditing arm is used to vet cocoa sourced through “Cocoa Life.”
Fairtrade, a non profit, aims to push for a better deal for farmers and workers in developing nations. It sets standards, including a minimum price for raw materials, and requires companies to contribute toward businesses or community projects, in exchange for the Fairtrade stamp.
But as the concept of ethically-sourced ingredients has become better understood by consumers, brands have started adopting standards that work for their business and image.
“It’s opened the door for companies to say ‘well let’s develop a standard that suits our business and also has the impact that we want to have on the ground,” said Alan Rownan, ethical labels analyst at Euromonitor.
Crafting in-house standards has also become a way to trim costs for big companies under financial pressure as economic growth slows and consumers opt for healthier snacks or smaller, more artisan brands.
“When the whole market is certified, the ability to have a higher price for it becomes less,” said Jon Cox, analyst at Kepler Cheuvreux in Zurich, who follows companies such as Nestle and Barry Callebaut.
“So why not bring it in-house anyway and save money? And if they can convince consumers that it’s as good as some of the independents, if not better, then that maybe helps them as well.”
DEEPER INVOLVEMENT
While third-party labels have had a leading role in the drive to stamp out practices such as deforestation and child labor on farms, they have also faced criticism.
Think-tanks and industry groups say the way they enforce standards is not transparent enough and they have failed to align their programs to reduce complexity. Rainforest Alliance and UTZ Certified are now expected to streamline their standards after recently announcing plans to merge.
With consumer awareness growing, companies are also seeking to track more closely the sourcing of their ingredients and show the impact of certification to their consumers.
Fairtrade ensures that the sourcing of raw materials including coffee and bananas can be traced at every step of farming and processing but it does not provide the same guarantee for cocoa and tea.
It says certified cocoa beans are difficult to track as they can get mixed with conventional beans at the processing stage in countries that do not have the capacity to keep them separate.
This means a Fairtrade chocolate bar may be made with certified and conventional cocoa, with the label only guaranteeing that the company buys a percentage of Fairtrade beans and that any premium paid goes to farmers certified by the organization.
Some food and drinks companies say, as part of their move to new standards, they are taking a more active role in sourcing to show consumers a clearer link.
For example, Barry Callebaut built a dedicated ethically-sourced cocoa butter tank in a factory in Belgium and it has launched a mobile app aimed at improving traceability on farms in the Ivory Coast.
Mondelez does not track cocoa through the entire supply chain, but it says Cocoa Life has allowed for a deeper involvement with farmers. The company uses digital mapping in Ghana, Ivory Coast and Indonesia to boost transparency and traceability from farm to processing facility.
“When you’re simply a buyer of raw materials, then in a typical supply chain, you’re not involved directly on the ground,” said Jonathan Horrell, global director of sustainability for Mondelez.
Some companies have also set deadlines for eliminating unsustainable practices from their supply chain and, as they approach, the pressure to find solutions has intensified.
Unilever has promised to source 100 percent of its materials sustainably by 2020 using both certification and its own “Unilever Sustainable Agriculture Code.”
Barry Callebaut is also aiming to source 100 percent of its ingredients sustainably by 2025, up from 23 percent in 2015. It buys cocoa through external schemes and its own “Cocoa Horizons” program.
“They’re under pressure to reach these (goals),” Rownan said. “And it’s not always easy to reach 100 percent targets following these mainstream, rigid certifications.”
SAVVY CONSUMERS
While critics of self-certification worry about muddling standards, consumers are growing savvier. The companies say they risk a fierce backlash if they try to loosen the rules.
“If you connect your name to it...then you want to make sure what you’re putting out there is absolutely credible,” said Christiaan Prins, head of external affairs for Barry Callebaut. “The consumer nowadays can no longer be tricked in any sense.”
Sainsbury’s angered consumers and watchdogs in June when it replaced the Fairtrade mark on its own-brand tea with its pilot “Fairly Traded” version, with an eye to possibly extending it to other products such as coffee and bananas.
Under “Fairly Traded,” farmers will get “above and beyond” what they were receiving from Fairtrade and it should help make them more resilient to climate change, said Sainsbury’s head of media relations David Nieberg.
But critics say the scheme takes control away from farmer organizations, who will no longer directly receive a premium for their tea. The premium will be managed by the Sainsbury’s Foundation and will be used to fund farmers’ strategic projects.
Sainsbury’s will not pay licensing fees to Fairtrade but will continue to buy tea from farmers certified by the group. It will also purchase from farmers vetted by other groups if it decides they meet its in-house rules for ethical sourcing, Nieberg said.
Consumer scrutiny is likely to be even greater toward companies using self-made schemes to meet ambitious targets for “sustainable” sourcing — a label that is already ambiguous because it has many standards and meanings.
“When companies move away from certifiers and all of a sudden are able to far more easily achieve their sustainability goals – well what’s changed?” said Rownan. “I think consumers will want to know.”
With questions about their future, third-party certifiers are trying to adapt to the potential dent to licensing fees, which made up 11 million euros ($13.04 million) or 63 percent of Fairtrade International’s income in 2015.
“We’re trying to show them the stories behind the investment,” said Dario Soto Abril, chief executive officer at Fairtrade International. “We’re making a big effort to listen to companies and adapt and innovate within our model.”
Fairtrade also hopes to expand through new partnerships with groups such as Lidl and Aldi, said Abril. Fairtrade’s auditing arm, FLOCERT, also launched an online platform called Fairtrace, to make it easier to track products through the supply chain. ($1 = 0.8434 euros)
How fair is our food? Big companies take reins on sourcing schemes
How fair is our food? Big companies take reins on sourcing schemes
Recipes for Success: Chef Jolbi Huacho offers advice and an avocado Nikkei recipe
DUBAI: Jolbi Huacho started his culinary career in Peru at the age of 22. He has since worked in several countries and now heads up two kitchens — Clay and Sushiyaki — in Dubai.
“My earliest food memories are connected to traditional stews made with ají peppers. I grew up surrounded by different preparations where ají was the starting point, and I clearly remember how the aromas coming from the kitchen sparked my curiosity from a young age,” Huacho tells Arab News. “Those dishes were part of my childhood and shaped my first connection with cooking.
“During my time at culinary school, I didn’t just learn techniques, I truly fell in love with the profession. By the time I finished my studies, I understood that this would not just be my career, but the path I wanted to fully commit to for the rest of my life.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to execute dishes without fully understanding their origin and the reasoning behind each process. Cooking is a step-by-step evolution, you first need to understand where a dish comes from — the product, its technique and logic — before putting it into practice. Combining studying with constant hands-on practice helped me build a strong foundation and grow as a chef.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
My main advice is to connect with what they are about to cook. Using a recipe or a video as a reference helps to understand the process before putting it into practice. From there, it’s important to enjoy the experience, cook without pressure, and put care into what you prepare. Everyone can cook. Each person has their own style. And, in the end, cooking is about enjoying and sharing food. Cooking at home shouldn’t be stressful; taste as you go, adjust when needed, and have fun with it
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? (And why?)
More than a single ingredient, I believe what truly elevates any dish is a well-executed base. A properly made reduction — whether from a stock, jus, or sauce — adds depth, balance, and intensity of flavor. It’s not about adding more elements, but about using the right technique and respecting the process to bring out the best in a dish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
It’s not just about the food, but also the service, timing, atmosphere, and the overall feeling of the place.
What’s the most-common issue that you find in other restaurants?
When passion and professionalism doesn’t cross all areas. When every part of a restaurant is handled with care and commitment, the experience naturally comes together, regardless of the cuisine or concept.
What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order?
I’m very drawn to fusion cooking and a wide range of flavors. I enjoy dishes like a good ramen or donburi for their depth and umami, as well as classics such as a well-made carbonara or a fresh ceviche. More than the cuisine itself, what matters most is proper execution and a strong sense of identity in the dish.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I usually go for simple dishes such as a katsu sando, miso soup, gyozas, or even a ceviche. These are dishes that don’t take much time and deliver great flavor with minimal steps. It’s all about simplicity done well.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
As a chef — or just as a professional — you must be prepared for all kinds of situations. Issues and requests will always arise. What truly matters is not the problem itself, but how it is handled: being present, listening, and always focusing on finding a solution. When situations are managed with professionalism, it’s possible to reach an outcome where both the guest and the (staff) feel satisfied.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Ceviche. I enjoy it because of its freshness and the balance between acidity and umami. With just a few elements, you can achieve very intense flavors. Good quality fish, treated with care and cured at the right moment, combined with a well-made leche de tigre, says everything. It’s a simple dish, but it requires respect for the product, proper timing, and precision.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Seemingly simple dishes can be very hard. Preparations where there is nowhere to hide mistakes, such as a proper ramen broth, a well-executed fried rice, or fish that is cured or cooked to the exact point. In these dishes, technique, timing, and respect for the product must be precise, because even the smallest mistake becomes immediately noticeable.
What are you like as a leader?
I consider myself balanced, but demanding. I strongly believe that without discipline, consistency, and high standards, there is no real growth. I enjoy bringing out the best in people, teaching — and also learning, because cooking is a constant evolution.
I am disciplined when it comes to standards, technique, and consistency. But, at the same time, I value respect and people’s development. I am direct and expressive, and I believe a chef must display character and leadership. But that doesn’t mean shouting. For me, a kitchen works best with discipline, consistency, clear communication, and strong leadership.
Chef Jolbi’s avocado Nikkei
The avocado Nikkei is a dish that brings together creaminess, acidity, smokiness, and umami in a single bite.
It is built around a rocoto chimichurri quickly stir-fried in very hot oil, delivering depth and intensity. This is combined with creamy avocado, a tiger milk rich in seafood and fish umami, and finished with a burnt tortilla oil that adds subtle smoky notes.
A bright, acidic chalacita balances the dish, resulting in a fresh, bold, and addictive preparation with clearly layered flavors.
Smoked Rocoto Chimichurri
(Rocoto, It’s a chili from Peru, but can be replaced with red Holland chili.
Avocado Nikkei
Ingredients:
• Rocoto (or red Holland chili), finely chopped – 100 g
• Red onion, brunoise – 100 g
• Garlic, finely chopped – 30 g
• Vegetable oil – 100 g
• Fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped – 30 g
• Fresh parsley, chopped – 30 g
• White vinegar – 20 g
• Sugar – 10 g
• Salt – 5 g
Preparation
Heat the vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the rocoto, red onion, and garlic, and sauté gently for about 5 minutes, until softened and aromatic, without browning. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Once cooled, add the coriander, parsley, vinegar, sugar, and salt. Mix well until fully combined.
Let the chimichurri cool completely, then adjust seasoning if needed and set aside until ready to use.
Black Tortilla Oil
Ingredients
• Flour tortillas (wrap) – 600 g
• Vegetable oil – 180 g
• Salt – 5 g
Preparation
The flour tortillas are baked in the oven at 200–220°C until they are approximately 85–90% burnt, achieving a deep dark color without turning to ash. Once roasted, they are removed from the oven and slightly cooled, then blended together with the vegetable oil and salt at high speed until a smooth and well-emulsified oil is obtained. The mixture can be strained if a finer texture is desired, then transferred to a squeeze bottle or airtight container. Before use, the oil should be shaken well to re-emulsify the solids with the oil.
Tiger Milk
Ingredients
• White fish (fresh, skinless) – 50 g
• Lime juice – 200 g
• Fish stock (fumet) – 80 g
• Celery – 50 g
• Onion – 50 g
• Garlic – 20 g
• Ginger – 10 g
• Red Holland chili – 10 g
• Coriander (cilantro) – 20 g
• Salt – 5 g
Preparation
All vegetables are cut into mirepoix and placed in a bowl together with salt, then gently crushed using a mortar to release their juices and aromas, allowing them to rest for about five minutes. After resting, lime juice and fish stock are added to the vegetable mixture. Separately, the fish is lightly cured with a small amount of lime juice and salt. Once cured, the fish is added to the vegetable mixture, and everything is blended at full speed in short pulses three seconds at a time, repeated three times to avoid overheating and preserve freshness. The mixture is then strained, and the resulting liquid is adjusted for seasoning if needed. The tiger milk is ready to use.
Chalaquita
Ingredients
Red Holland chili, 50 g, fine brunoise
White onion, 50 g, fine brunoise
Coriander stems, 30 g, fine brunoise
Lime juice, 50 g
White vinegar, 10 g
Vegetable oil, 30 g
Salt, 4 g
White pepper, 2 g
Preparation
Finely dice all solid ingredients into a small brunoise. Place them in a bowl and add the lime juice, white vinegar, and vegetable oil. Season with salt and white pepper, mix well, and adjust seasoning if needed. Keep refrigerated until use.
Plating – Avocado Nikkei
In a bowl, place ½ avocado, 2 tablespoons of rocoto chimichurri, salt, and white pepper. Using a fork, gently mash and mix to achieve a rustic, creamy texture, leaving small avocado chunks (not a smooth purée). Adjust seasoning and set aside. Place this mixture in the center of the plate, forming the base, on top, place the remaining half of the avocado, keeping its natural shape.
Add a small amount of tiger milk in the center of the avocado and finish with a few drops of black tortilla oil. Top with fresh chalacita and finish with coriander cress, ensuring a clean, balanced, and elegant presentation.
