JACOBABAD/LARKANA: Raheem Bakhsh, a brick kiln worker in Pakistan’s Jacobabad district, used to work eight hours previously. This year, however, Bakhsh is forced to take a pay cut and reduce his working hours to five or six, as the temperature in Jacobabad district crossed 50° Celsius last week while Pakistan remains in the throes of a severe heat wave.
Throughout May 2024, the temperatures in the northern districts of Pakistan’s southern Sindh province remained 6-8°C higher than their monthly average. Pakistan’s National Disaster Management Authority (NDMA) last week warned the heat waves would persist across parts of Sindh and Punjab in June, with temperatures likely to remain above 48 degrees Celsius.
Increased exposure to heat, and more heat waves, have been identified as one of the key impacts of climate change in Pakistan, with people experiencing extreme heat and seeing some of the highest temperatures in the world in recent years. The South Asian country of more than 241 million, one of the ten most vulnerable nations to climate change impacts, has also witnessed untimely downpours, flash floods and droughts in recent years.
Jacobabad and other northern districts of Sindh are known for their sweltering temperatures every summer. This year around, as the weather gets warmer and harsher, residents of the district are making some necessary changes to their daily routine.
Bakhsh, who has been laboring as a brick kiln worker for the past 40-45 years, told Arab News last year was very hot but this year “is even hotter.”
“The extreme heat has slowed down our work,” he lamented. “Previously we worked for eight hours, but now we work for only five to six hours. The hot weather is causing us losses every day. Our health is also deteriorating as we become weaker with each passing day. We are laborers, where will we go?“
The same is the case for Mahjabeen Shabbir Abro, a social worker for a non-governmental organization (NGO) in Jacobabad. As the mercury soars in the district, Abro has increased her water intake and rescheduled her job timings to avoid the peak sun hours.
Previously, she used to work from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The intense heat has forced her to change her timings from 07:00 a.m. To 11:00 p.m.
“Previously as a field-based worker, we didn’t feel the need for water that much nor did we feel unconscious,” Abro told Arab News. “However, this heat is making us feel unconscious and we have to use ORS [Oral Rehydration Solution] as much as possible. If we used to have just one sachet of ORS, we now take two to three ORS sachets per day.”
Abdul Riaz, a 20-year-old laborer, said he would spend the upcoming Eid-Al-Adha festival in Balochistan’s cooler pastures searching for work without his family, and away from his one-year-old son.
“Here in Jacobabad, it is too hot, and there is too much joblessness,” Riaz said. “I am going to Balochistan for work in grape farming. I will spend four to five months there so that I can earn and send money back home to my children,” he added.
According to him, Ibrahimzai area in Balochistan is a cooler place where he can find work at grape gardens.
“I often go there in different seasons to work in grape gardens,” Riaz said.
Dr. Ram Chand, the Sindh government’s focal person for heat stroke response centers in Jacobabad, noted that while the temperature had soared past 50 degrees Celsius in May, no deaths from heat stroke had taken place. While the district headquarters civil hospital has increased its heat stroke response centers from one last year to four this year, people were taking more precautions against the heat wave, he said.
“Due to mass awareness, people are taking necessary precautions, such as drinking more liquids, juices, ORS, and water,” Chand told Arab News. “And we’ve seen no heat stroke deaths this year or last year.”
But while that may be a silver lining for Chand, it isn’t necessarily for others. Khadim Hussain, a farmer at Mohenjo Daro in the neighboring Larkana district in Dhandh village, says the harsh climate won’t let him plant seeds.
“In the past, we used to sow rice seeds in June,” Hussain told Arab News. “Now it is so hot, with hot winds blowing, that if we start sowing seeds now, they will burn out, and we would face a huge loss.”
In northern Sindh, residents struggle to adapt as Pakistan sizzles under heat wave
https://arab.news/yf9rx
In northern Sindh, residents struggle to adapt as Pakistan sizzles under heat wave
- Some laborers migrate to cooler areas, other reduce working hours as temperature in Jacobabad district in Sindh soars to over 50 degrees Celsius
- Health experts and doctors advise people to stay indoors, drink plenty of juices and water as South Asia experiences severe heat wave
In Pakistan’s Bannu, people start their day with a sugar rush
- While much of Pakistan favors savory breakfasts, residents of Bannu prefer a sweet, caramelized halwa
- People line up before sunrise at the decades-old Speen Sar restaurant to cherish its signature dish
BANNU, Pakistan: Before sunrise, the narrow lane outside Speen Sar, a modest restaurant, fills with customers waiting for halwa, a dense sweet made from wheat starch, sugar and clarified butter, that serves as breakfast for many people in this northwestern city.
Inside the restaurant’s kitchen, the morning air is thick with the scent of caramelized sugar and heated ghee. A chef leans over a large metal vat, dissolving sugar into the hot fat before adding a slurry of flour and water. With rhythmic, heavy strokes, he stirs the mixture until it thickens into a glossy halwa.
He pours the sweet onto a tray and rushes toward the counter, where a crowd of patrons has already gathered. Three cooks work in quick succession to keep pace with demand, turning out batch after batch during the breakfast rush in Bannu, a city in Pakistan’s Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province.
While halwa is widely eaten as a dessert or festival sweet across South and Central Asia and the Middle East, Bannu stands apart for turning it into a morning staple. Across most of Pakistan, breakfast tends to be savory, typically consisting of omelets, parathas or puris, and in some places nihari, a slow-cooked meat stew. Here, however, halwa is not a side dish but the meal itself, eaten plain or with bread before the workday begins.
“We open the shop at the time of morning prayer, and after prayer, we start preparing,” says Zahid Khan, whose grandfather Akbar Ghulam opened the restaurant over six decades ago.
The shop’s name, Speen Sar — Pashto for “white-haired man” — dates back to its earliest days. Khan said the business began as a small stall run by his grandfather. As he grew older and his hair turned white, customers began directing others to the “speen sar” shop, the place where the white-haired man sold halwa. The nickname endured, eventually becoming the shop’s official identity.
Speen Sar relies on a labor-intensive process of extracting starch from wheat flour.
“In our halwa, we use ghee, sugar, flour and other ingredients. From the flour, the starch that comes out is what we use to make the halwa,” Khan explained before examining the cooking process in his kitchen.
Bannu sits at the crossroads between Pakistan’s former tribal areas and the settled plains of the northwest, and the halwa shop serves as a rare social equalizer, drawing laborers, traders, students and travelers to the same counter each morning. For many passing through the city, stopping for halwa is not optional.
“Whenever I come from Waziristan ... the first thing I do is start with halwa,” says Irafullah Mehsud, an expatriate worker. “I eat the halwa first, and only then move on to other things.”
The popularity of the dish is partly due to its shelf life and to what the owners call good quality. At Rs500 ($1.80) per kilogram, it is an affordable luxury as well.
“Our halwa is widely consumed with breakfast, and it does not spoil quickly. If you want, that you will eat it tomorrow, you can even set some aside for the next day,” Khan said, pointing to a tray of nishasta halwa, a variety made by extracting wheat starch before cooking.
While the region offers variations including sohan halwa, milk-based recipes, and carrot-infused batches, this halwa offered by Speen Sar remains the undisputed king of the breakfast table in this city.
“This is a tradition of the people of Bannu. Early in the morning, everyone eats it and comes here,” says Razaullah Khan, a student at a local college. “Eating halwa is a common practice here ... but this one is the most popular. People eat it for breakfast.”
For the elders of the city, the habit is as much about routine as it is about flavor.
“This tradition has been going on for the past forty to fifty years ever since I can remember,” says Sakhi Marjan, a local elder in his late sixties. “We first come to the Azad Mandi market and then come here to eat halwa. We really enjoy this halwa. It is delicious.”
As the sun rises over Bannu, this ‘sweet’ trade shows no sign of slowing. For those like Gul Sher, a regular from Jani Khel, a town in a neighboring tribal district, a day without the local sweet is a day started wrong.
“As soon as I step into Bannu, I start my day with halwa. After that, the rest of the day goes well,” Sher said before finishing his plate of halwa.
“It is a sweet dish, and it makes the day better. It is a good thing.”
