Camelback counters trek wilderness to carry out Pakistan census

In this picture taken on March 23, 2023, a member of the levies tribal force (L) and census officials from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (R) ride camels to collect information from Marri tribespeople living in the remote mountainous area of Mawand as part of a national census in southwest Pakistan’s Kohlu district, Balochistan province. (Photo courtesy: AFP)
Short Url
Updated 31 March 2023
Follow

Camelback counters trek wilderness to carry out Pakistan census

  • In cities and towns, census teams wend their way from door to door on motorbikes to gather data
  • In rural Balochistan and its wilderness of khaki rockland, a fleet of gurning camels is the only option

KOHLU: Plodding over the horizon of western Pakistan, camel-riding officials spy a far-flung cluster of rough wooden homes and start tallying its tribespeople as the national census gets under way.

Beyond the reach of roads, power lines and TV signals in central Balochistan province, this arid settlement of five reed huts has no name and hosts barely 15 nomads — three families herding goats and sheep.

“We ride for hours,” said local census supervisor Faraz Ahmad. “We even have to live for days out in the mountains among the people we’re counting.”

In cities and towns, teams wend their way from door to door on motorbikes. But in rural Balochistan, the tarmac gives way to craggy trails that then dissolve altogether in a wilderness of khaki rockland.

A fleet of gurning camels is the only option to get the job done.

“It takes a while to convince them to share their details,” census taker Mohammad Junaid Marri told AFP in rural Kohlu district, 210 kilometers (130 miles) east of the provincial capital Quetta and one hour by camel from the nearest discernible road.

“In some cases, it’s kind of funny. Since every census team has a security escort, sometimes people run away,” the 30-year-old said after his garlanded camel Bhoora bowed to let him slide off its hump and start peppering families with questions.




In this picture taken on March 23, 2023, census officials from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics ride a camel to collect information from Marri tribespeople living in the remote mountainous area of Mawand as part of a national census in southwest Pakistan’s Kohlu district, Balochistan province. (Photo courtesy: AFP)

Between five and 10 percent of Kohlu residents live in areas so inaccessible that camels are the only practical transport, estimates 34-year-old Ahmad.

They are rented for 1,000 rupees ($3.50) a day and the price includes a cameleer — a man trudging ahead to lead the bristly beasts on a leash.

In a nation divided along ethnic lines, enumerating citizens — 207 million at last count and an estimated 220 million today — is a politically charged act that can alter claims to power and scant state resources.

The data will also be used to outline constituencies in future elections.

Balochistan is Pakistan’s largest and least populous province, rich in natural resources but poor by all other measures.

A separatist insurgency has long simmered in the region, fueled by the grievance that Islamabad has failed to share the spoils of wealth extracted from Balochistan.

As Marri and Ahmad approach the hamlet on one camel, trailed by another carrying a guard wielding a weathered machine gun, they are eyed by a teenager through a pair of binoculars as children in traditional red floral dress gather round.

“There’s a lack of awareness among people about the census — they don’t understand the benefits and downsides,” said Ahmad. “They don’t trust us and fear we may cheat them.”




In this picture taken on March 23, 2023, census officials from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics ride on a camel as they arrive to collect information from Marri tribespeople living in the remote mountainous area of Mawand as part of a national census in southwest Pakistan’s Kohlu district, Balochistan province. (Photo courtesy: AFP)

Elsewhere, police guarding census teams in the nation’s remote and restive northwest have been killed by the Pakistani Taliban.

Despite the decidedly low-tech mode of transport, this is the first time Pakistan’s census will be compiled digitally, on tablets rather than reams of paper.

Nonetheless, the old grievances remain.

“What benefits will we get from the census?” asked Mir Khan, 53, in another nearby speck of a settlement at the foot of mountains.

“We will get nothing. The influential people snatch everything the government wants to distribute to the poor.”

“We have never seen any support from the government,” grumbles his cousin Pando Khan, 58.

“We see people when they’re campaigning for us to vote for them, and later they never return.”

However, after swapping their personal details with families according to local tribal customs, Ahmad and Marri convince them to answer 25 questions to give them a clearer picture of present-day Pakistan.




In this picture taken on March 22, 2023, census officials from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics attempt to contact Marri tribespeople living in the remote mountainous area of Mawand as part of a national census in southwest Pakistan’s Kohlu district, Balochistan province. (Photo courtesy: AFP)




In this picture taken on March 22, 2023, census officials from the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (in green) collect information from a Marri tribe man living in the remote mountainous area of Mawand as part of a national census in southwest Pakistan’s Kohlu district, Balochistan province. (Photo courtesy: AFP)

 


Tirah Valley residents flee homes ahead of Pakistan’s planned anti-militant army offensive

Updated 58 min 2 sec ago
Follow

Tirah Valley residents flee homes ahead of Pakistan’s planned anti-militant army offensive

  • Families flee militant-hit region on days-long journeys amid bitter winter cold
  • Cash aid announced but displaced residents cite lack of evacuation planning

PAINDA CHEENA, Pakistan: In the rugged mountains of Pakistan’s Tirah Valley, long lines of tractor-trolleys and mini-pickups inched toward a registration camp earlier this month. 

The vehicles were stacked with bedding, food supplies and families escaping their homes as a military operation against militants looms in the conflict-striken northwestern region. 

At the Painda Cheena registration point, 60-year-old Hajji Muhammad Yousuf sat wrapped in a shawl, waiting with dozens of others after traveling nearly 40 kilometers from his village in Maidan Tirah, a journey that took four days instead of the usual few hours. He still faces another 66-kilometer trip to Bara, near the northwestern city of Peshawar, the provincial capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. 

Like thousands of others, Yousuf is leaving behind a fully furnished home ahead of an expected security offensive in the volatile border region near Afghanistan.

“Today is our fourth night here,” Yousuf said. “We have left fully furnished houses behind ... There are no facilities, no amenities for us. We are facing great hardships.”

Families load their belongings onto vehicles in Pakistan’s Tirah Valley on January 15, 2026. (AN photo)

Officials say the evacuation could affect up to 20,000 families, marking a significant escalation in Pakistan’s campaign against the proscribed militant group Tehreek-e-Taliban Pakistan (TTP). Despite major military operations in the mid-2010s, Tirah Valley has remained a stronghold for insurgents, prompting authorities to plan what they describe as a targeted clearance.

The scale of displacement has placed acute pressure on limited local infrastructure. While the journey from Maidan Tirah to the registration point at Mandi Kas normally takes around two hours by vehicle, congestion and verification procedures have stretched the trip into days for many families.

“Last night, a woman died of hunger in Sandana,” Yousuf said. “There is no arrangement for medicine, no doctor, no food, no washroom. Women and children are facing problems.”

Displaced residents say they feel trapped between militant threats and state action.

“We ourselves are opposing terrorism, yet we do not understand why, if a Taliban comes in the evening and we give bread, the government comes in the morning asking why the bread was given,” Yousuf said. “In the end, we were forced to do this [to leave].”

RELIEF MEASURES

The Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KP) provincial government has announced a compensation package for displaced families. Talha Rafi, assistant commissioner for Bara, said authorities had set up 15 biometric counters at the registration site.

“One person receives a one-time compensation of Rs255,000 ($911), and a monthly Rs50,000 ($179) is provided,” he said, adding that SIM cards were being issued to ensure digital disbursement of funds.

Families load their belongings onto vehicles in Pakistan’s Tirah Valley on January 15, 2026. (AN photo)

Provincial officials say the payments are intended to cover basic needs during displacement, though residents and tribal elders argue that cash alone cannot offset the absence of shelter, health care and transport arrangements during evacuation.

The evacuation has also exposed tensions between the provincial government and Pakistan’s military establishment over the use of force in the region.

“We have neither allowed the operation nor will we ever allow the operation,” KP Law Minister Aftab Alam Afridi said, arguing that past military campaigns had failed to deliver lasting stability.

“These people are our own people. They are also the people of this state, the people of this province. We will definitely take care of them,” he said, adding that the KP cabinet had approved what he described as “a large package” for the displaced families.

Federal authorities and the military have signaled a firmer stance. While Federal Information Minister Ataullah Tarar and the military’s public relations wing did not respond to requests for comment, military spokesperson Lt. Gen. Ahmed Shareef Chaudhry has previously defended security operations as necessary.

Families sittinng in vehicles with their belongings in Pakistan’s Tirah Valley on January 15, 2026. (AN photo)

In a recent briefing, Chaudhry said security forces carried out 75,175 intelligence-based operations nationwide last year, including more than 14,000 in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, attributing the surge in violence to what he described as a “politically conducive environment” for militants.

Analysts say political divisions have allowed the TTP to regain ground. 

Peshawar-based journalist Mehmood Jan Babar said many militants now operating in Tirah are local residents who returned after refusing settlement offers in remote parts of Afghanistan.

“Whenever we have seen division at the national level, the Taliban have taken advantage of it,” he said.

But for families waiting in freezing conditions at Painda Cheena, such strategic calculations offer little comfort. Tribal elders accuse civil authorities of ordering displacement without adequate logistical planning.

“The government has, without any administrative arrangements, ordered these people to migrate,” said Muhammad Khan Afridi, an elderly local resident. “You yourselves are seeing what suffering these people are facing, what humiliation they are experiencing.”

As a January 25 evacuation deadline approaches, uncertainty dominates daily life for those uprooted.

“Bringing peace is in the government’s hands,” Yousuf said. “It is up to them whether they normalize the situation or drive us out again tomorrow.”