Atelier Zuhra tells an enchanting story of Arabia at LFW

Atelier Zuhra presented its new collection during London Fashion Week. (Photographed by Garry Carbon)
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Updated 17 February 2020
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Atelier Zuhra tells an enchanting story of Arabia at LFW

LONDON: Beauty on the catwalk – that’s the only way to describe the ethereal bespoke gowns showcased by Omani brand Atelier Zuhra at London Fashion Week for Stories from Arabia. Held in the impressive setting of the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, a succession of stunning designs were paraded with the only downside being the deafening soundtrack, which threatened at times to eclipse the fashion. 

Arab News spoke to Atelier Zuhra CEO Rayan Al-Sulaimani whose mother, Omani-born Mousa Al-Awfi founded the couture house in Dubai in 2015. 




Omani-born Mousa Al-Awfi founded the couture house in Dubai in 2015. Photographed by Garry Carbon

The inspiration for the collection, she explained, is “The immaculate flight of the phoenix.” The phoenix is a powerful bird from Greek mythology, which cyclically regenerates and is continually reborn. Associated with the sun, a phoenix obtains new life by arising from the ashes of its predecessor.

“We have used charcoal grey and black to represent ashes with light greens, pinks and lilacs representing sunlight and fire. The sapphire blues represent the eyes of the phoenix,” she said.

“For the fabrics, which we source from France and Italy, we have tulle, embroidery and a lot of feathers in addition to acrylics with crystals and pearls,” she added. 




The inspiration for the collection is the phoenix. Photographed by Garry Carbon

A striking feature of the showing was that all the models wore striking close-fitted silver headpieces to reference the Arab culture. 

The bodices on the dresses are beautifully fitted but when I admired the workmanship Al-Sulaimani confided: “To be honest, for this specific show it was all very last minute. The timing was very tight. We only had 60 days to prepare 50 different pieces. This was due to having another major showing in November. It is always challenging to have everything ready on time!”




All of the models wore striking silver headpieces as a nod to the Arab culture.  Photographed by Garry Carbon

Asked about her future plans, she said: “My ambition for the future is for the brand to be well recognized internationally. Over the next five years I hope to have Atelier Zuhra established in Europe – either in London or Paris.”

Atelier Zuhra has many celebrity fans across the world including actress Eva Longoria, Bollywood stars Kareena Kapoor and Deepika Padukone as well as Arab celebrities Buthaina Al-Raisi and Mariam Hussein.

 


Muse to perform in Abu Dhabi this year

Updated 28 April 2024
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Muse to perform in Abu Dhabi this year

DUBAI: British rock veterans Muse are headed to Abu Dhabi for the second time as they get ready to perform at the 2024 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix after-party concert series.

Running from Dec. 5 - 8, Muse is the first the band to be announced as part of the concert series. Access to all concerts is exclusive for Abu Dhabi F1 Grand Prix ticket holders.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by AbuDhabiGP (@abudhabigp)

“Catch the Grammy Award winning rock icons electrifying the stage at @etihadpark this December at the #F1Finale Yasalam After-Race Concerts,” read a social media post on the official Instagram account of Abu Dhabu Grand Prix.

A date has not yet been announced for the concert.

This is the second time the “Starlight” rockers are performing as part of the concert series, having made their debut in the UAE capital in 2013.


Music ‘haven of freedom’ Tangiers hosts global jazz festival

Updated 28 April 2024
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Music ‘haven of freedom’ Tangiers hosts global jazz festival

  • This year’s Jazz Day will be held over four days starting on Saturday, during which talks and open-air performances will be held in Tangiers

TANGIERS, Morocco: The Moroccan city of Tangiers, which has a long history as a haven of inspiration for American jazz musicians, will host UNESCO’s International Jazz Day for the first time on Tuesday.
Over the last century, jazz greats such as Randy Weston, Idrees Sulieman and Max Roach all crossed the Atlantic to play and record music in the North African port city, perched on the edge of the Strait of Gibraltar.
“The city has had a fascinating power of attraction on a wave of intellectuals and musicians,” Philippe Lorin, the founder of an annual Tangiers jazz festival, told AFP.
“It’s not for nothing that a writer once said there was always a cruise liner in New York preparing to sail for Tangiers.”
This year’s Jazz Day will be held over four days starting on Saturday, during which talks and open-air performances will be held in Tangiers.
The festivities will culminate in an “All-Star Global Concert” on Tuesday led by jazz icon Herbie Hancock, also featuring bassists Marcus Miller and Richard Bona, as well as guitarist Romero Lubambo.
The city’s cosmopolitan artistic reputation stems from its location between Africa and Europe as well as its history, having been administered by several colonial powers from 1923 to 1956, the year Morocco gained independence.
This melting pot of influences prompted visits from international writers and poets, notably from the Beat Generation movement, as well as African American musicians seeking to find “their African roots,” Moroccan historian Farid Bahri told AFP.
Lorin said that Tangiers “was a haven of freedom — just like jazz music.”

A pivotal moment in the city’s musical history came in 1959, when Tangiers jazz promoter Jacques Muyal — then just a teenager — recorded a session with trumpeter Idrees Sulieman, pianist Oscar Dennard, bassist Jamil Nasser and drummer Buster Smith at the Radio Tanger International studio.
The recording gained renown in jazz circles decades before its distribution as “The 4 American Jazzmen In Tangier” album in 2017.
Bahri, the author of “Tangiers, a world history of Morocco,” said “the presence of American musicians in Tangiers was also linked to a very active American diplomacy.”
Famous US pianist Randy Weston settled in Tangiers for five years after visiting 14 African countries in 1967 during a tour organized by the US State Department.
The Brooklynite virtuoso would play a key role in building the musical reputation of the city, to which he dedicated his 1973 album “Tanjah.”
“Randy was an exceptional, kind and respectful man,” said Abdellah El Gourd, a 77-year-old Moroccan legend of gnawa music, a centuries-old style played with a three-stringed lute and steel castanets, rooted in West African rituals and Sufi traditions.
“He gave a lot to the city and its musicians,” added the friend and collaborator of Weston, who died in 2018.

Together, El Gourd and Weston blurred the lines of their respective genres, creating the beginnings of jazz-gnawa fusion, which remains a key part of Tangiers’ musical legacy.
“The language barrier was never a problem because our communication was through (musical) scales,” El Gourd recalled in a rehearsal room lined with old photos and memorabilia from the years he toured with Weston and jazz saxophonist Archie Shepp.
“Our language was music.”
The two men’s collaborative work would years later yield the acclaimed 1992 album “The Splendid Master Gnawa Musicians of Morocco.”
Two years after settling in the city, Weston opened the African Rhythms jazz club, above the iconic Cinema Mauritania in downtown Tangiers.
“We used to rehearse there,” El Gourd recalled. “Randy would invite his musician friends. It was a beautiful time.”
With El Gourd’s help, Weston launched Tangiers’ first-ever jazz festival in 1972, featuring big names such as drummer Max Roach, flautist Hubert Laws, double-bassist Ahmed Abdul-Malik, and saxophonist Dexter Gordon.
“It was quite a unique experience, because it was the first time we played in front of such a large audience,” said El Gourd, who was then used to small crowds for gnawa performances.
Weston and El Gourd’s festival was only held once.
But three decades later it inspired Lorin to create the Tanjazz festival, which is held in the port city every September.


Guerlain’s Ann-Caroline Prazan on mixing cultures, Mideast inspiration 

Updated 27 April 2024
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Guerlain’s Ann-Caroline Prazan on mixing cultures, Mideast inspiration 

DUBAI: Ann-Caroline Prazan, the director of art, culture, and heritage at French luxury beauty brand Guerlain, shared her affection for the Middle East and shed light on why she is so keen to mesh together cultures when creating new products.

“The Guerlain family is totally in love with the region. I am in love with this region because it is like a paradise,” she told Arab News. “People here love fragrances and they are such experts. When Guerlain creates a fragrance for the Middle East, it is always with a French touch.”

Prazan and Diala Makki at the Dubai event. (Supplied)

For Prazan, who joined the Guerlain team in 2000, understanding the brand’s story has been pivotal, motivating her to craft fragrances over her 24-year tenure, prioritizing longevity over trends.

“It is important to understand the past to create a future,” Prazan said. “You know, a house is like a big tree. You need to know the roots to create the leaves and to create new flowers. Without roots, you cannot do anything if you do not understand the brand.”

“Innovation is our obsession,” she added. “Guerlain created the first lipsticks, the first lip liners, the first modern perfume, the first moisturizing Nivea cream was by Guerlain.”

Guerlain has collaborated with regional creatives before. (Supplied)

Her regional knowledge shapes Guerlain’s tailored fragrances for its customers.

“You have the best perfumers here, local perfumers. What was interesting is to mix the roots with the leaves to mix different cultures. And for me, when you mix different cultures, when you mix traditions and modernity, you can create beautiful products,” she explained.

Guerlain has collaborated with regional creatives before. In 2023, the brand worked with Lebanese artist Nadine Kanso to design a fragrance bottle for the label, making her the first Arab designer to collaborate with the LVMH-owned perfume and beauty house.

The Parfumerie D’Art collection features the Bee Bottle by Baqué Molinié. (Supplied)

She designed 30 limited edition bee-inspired bottles, decorated with 1,720 crystals, with Arabic calligraphy that read “Love.”

At an event in Dubai last week, the label chose to work with contemporary Tunisian artist Nja Mahdaoui, who showcased his abstract Arabic calligraphy with engraved Cherry Oud bottles serving as place cards for the invitees.

Balqees performed at the DUbai event. (Supplied)

The brand also created a number of bottles, showcased at the event in Dubai, that celebrate Arab design elements.

The Parfumerie D’Art collection features the Bee Bottle by Baqué Molinié. Unveiled to mark Eid Al-Fitr this year, the bottle features hand-placed mother-of-pearl beads and moonstones, designed by the Parisian atelier as a tribute to the “wonders of Arab architectural art,” according to a released statement.


‘Bridgerton’ actress says she was warned not to campaign for Palestinians

Updated 27 April 2024
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‘Bridgerton’ actress says she was warned not to campaign for Palestinians

  • Nicola Coughlan: Hollywood insiders told her advocacy could harm her career
  • Irish star feels ‘moral responsibility’ to campaign for ceasefire, continue to fundraise 

LONDON: Irish actress Nicola Coughlan has revealed that she was told her Palestinian advocacy could harm her career.

The “Bridgerton” and “Derry Girls” star told Teen Vogue she had been warned by people in Hollywood not to be openly supportive of Palestinian rights, but has continued to campaign for a ceasefire in Gaza and still publicly wears an Artists4Ceasefire pin.

“You do get told, ‘you won’t get work, you won’t do this,’ but I also think, deep down, if you know that you’re coming from a place of ‘I don’t want any innocent people to suffer,’ then I’m not worried about people’s reactions,” she said.

“My family lived in Jerusalem back in the late ‘70s, early ’80s, before I was born, so I heard first hand stories about them living there.”

She said her father, who served in the Irish military, went to a “lot of war-torn regions after the conflict and try and help rebuild,” and this had left a profound impression on her.

“I’m so lucky I’ve gotten to this point in my career, and I’m privileged as a white woman, first off.

“Then the fact that I get to do the job I love and travel the world and meet amazing people, I feel a moral responsibility to give back.”

She has made a point of continuing to campaign and raise money around the issue, adding: “To me, it always becomes about supporting all innocent people, which sounds oversimplified, but I think you’ve got to look at situations and just think, ‘Are we supporting innocent people no matter where they’re from, who they are?’ That’s my drive.”

Coughlan said social media plays a role in driving advocacy but it requires nuance. “More of us should be trying to understand how upsetting and traumatising this is for Jewish people, and how horrific it is that all these innocent people in Palestine are being murdered,” she added.

A number of Hollywood figures have faced repercussions for their open support of the Palestinians or criticism of Israel.

Mexican actress Melissa Barrera was fired from the latest “Scream” film over social media posts in support of Palestine, while director Jonathan Glazer caused controversy for using his acceptance speech at the Oscars for his film “The Zone of Interest” to criticize the Gaza war.


‘Game of Thrones’ star Liam Cunningham says world will ‘not forget’ those who stayed silent on Gaza

Updated 26 April 2024
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‘Game of Thrones’ star Liam Cunningham says world will ‘not forget’ those who stayed silent on Gaza

  • Irishman has been vocal advocate for Palestinian causes for decades

LONDON: Irish actor Liam Cunningham has said the public will “not forget” those who have not voiced support for Palestinians during the ongoing Israel-Hamas conflict in Gaza.

The “Game of Thrones” star has been a vocal advocate for Palestinian causes for decades. Speaking during a demonstration in Dublin led by Irish-Palestinian Ahmed Alagha, who has lost 44 family members in the recent Israeli assault on Gaza, Cunningham said he has been commended by his peers in the past for his activism.

“What concerns me is that the people who do care and are not doing anything are, in my opinion, worse than the people who don’t care,” he said.

Cunningham was asked if he had spoken to other actors to convince them to show support for the Palestinian cause, but responded by saying he could not speak for others, The Independent reported.

However, he added, “The internet doesn’t forget. When this comes around, when the ICJ (International Court of Justice) and ICC (International Criminal Court) hopefully do their work honorably, it is going to come out,” he said.

“And the people who didn’t talk — it is not going to be forgotten. It’s livestreamed, this genocide, and (saying) you didn’t know is not an option. You did know. And you did nothing. You stayed quiet. I need to be able to look in the mirror, and that’s why I speak,” he added.

A month after Israel launched its onslaught on Gaza in response to Hamas incursions on Oct. 7 in Israeli territory in which nearly 1,200 people were killed and around 250 hostages were taken, Cunningham said that for Irish people to ignore the treatment of Palestinians would be to “betray” their history.

“If we allow ourselves to accept this behavior, then we allow it to happen to us,” he said at the time. “We have to stand up for standards. We have to stand up for international law and it reduces us as human beings if we don’t.”

Israel’s assault on Gaza has killed more than 34,000 Palestinians, around two-thirds of them children and women, according to Hamas-run health authorities in the enclave.