IMA shines spotlight on Lebanon in photography biennial

Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris is running an exhibition of works from Lebanese photographers. (Supplied)
Updated 01 October 2019
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IMA shines spotlight on Lebanon in photography biennial

DUBAI: As part of its Third Biennial of Photographers of the Contemporary Arab World, the Institut du Monde Arabe (IMA) in Paris is running an exhibition of works from Lebanese photographers or “‘foreigners’ passing by,” mostly shot in the last decade. “Lebanon, Between Reality and Fiction” is divided into two parts — the first focused on documentary style photography, while the second “brings together artists who drag us into other landscapes, dreamed or invented.” Here, six of the featured photographers talk us through one of their highlighted images.

Dalia Khamissy

This photo of Imm Aziz is part of “The Missing of Lebanon,” a personal project I’ve been working on since 2009, through which I tell the stories of the families of the estimated 17,000 missing and victims of enforced disappearance of the Lebanese Civil War. In September 1982, Imm Aziz and her four sons — the oldest was 31, the youngest 13 — were having breakfast together at home when members of a Lebanese militia knocked on the door and asked the four sons to come with them. That was the last time she ever saw them.

This photograph was shot in October 2010, as I recall, at Imm Aziz’s home (a different one from her 1982 home) in the Palestinian refugee camp of Burj el Barajneh in the suburbs of Beirut. She has kept her sons’ belongings in case they ever come back. Here, she is sitting on the sofa where she usually naps in the afternoon, under framed portraits of her sons, with prayer beads between them.

Tanya Traboulsi

This is part of my ongoing series “Ich Schreibe Dir Später” (I’ll Write You Later), which consists of images all taken with my phone between 2015 and now. I take these photos while travelling, especially between Austria and Lebanon. I don’t want to carry heavy equipment with me at the moment, so I use my phone for it.

This photo was taken on the street in Vienna. It’s a well-known café called Aida, famous for its pink color. I just love how everything is tone-in-tone. Also, you can see the Vienna Opera House reflected in the windows.

One of the motivations behind the series is that everything happens on-the-go in our fast-paced lives these days. Most things are temporary and disposable. I’m trying to freeze some moments.

Maria Kassab

This is part of a series called “Le Naufrage.” It’s inspired by the ongoing political repercussions affecting the world today, and an interpretation of the crisis generated by borders between countries and the erosion of cultural and religious values. It also looks at the reduction of living space and the displacement of refugees fleeing conflict, whose destination remains uncertain — it explores the dilemma between the enjoyment of social and cultural identity and the search for a new identity caused by the brutal flight to another territory and the rupture of links with places, objects and people.

I organize my research around themes of memory, displacement, identity and belonging. I develop those themes through photomontage to create a visual narrative. I manipulate my own images and those of photographs that I collect to create a visual language that deconstructs and decontextualizes reality. My image manipulation is inspired by Lebanon’s political, environmental and cultural inconsistency. I construct a contemporary image marked by the illogical and surreal.

We live in a society that is constantly resisting power, whether poetically or violently. My work is a form of resistance. It is resistance to the current political and cultural world.

Demetris Koilalous

Before 2011 — when I shot “The Lebanese Notebook” as part of a commission — I had only visited Lebanon for professional assignments. What struck me in those early days were the tight security checks and an omnipresent feeling of cautiousness and restlessness. I remember my first conversation with a local man who saw my camera and asked me if a war was approaching — in his understanding, foreign photographers only came to Lebanon when there was a crisis.

I felt very strongly that the issue of identity ran deep — not only at a personal social, political or religious level, but also at a national level, as if contemporary Lebanon was trying to establish a ‘new’ and strong national identity. That was visible in the streets, on posters, flags and monuments. That’s when I started to photograph everything that related to identity — subjects, symbols and patterns. This series, “Anti-Paradise,” is, essentially, an existential question about human utopia.

I shot digitally — for practical reasons, since I thought it would be too risky to shoot with film with all the security scans, but also because that allowed me to manipulate my photographs and give this feeling of timelessness, which suited what I had in mind about Lebanon; a romantic and unclear landscape, carrying its historical momentum as a burden, but at the same time as an explosion away from the past.

Myriam Boulos

I shot this series, “Nightshift,” when I was between 20 and 22 years old, as a young woman coming of age and discovering women’s place in Lebanese society. I chose the context of night-time because, for me, it’s at night that Beirut’s complex, fragmented social map seems to suddenly appear. In “Nightshift,” I focused on parties taking place in industrial areas of Beirut. These venues gathered social bubbles from my generation that stood against Beirut’s mainstream ‘bling.’ I followed young women who appear strong and fragile, determined and vulnerable, all at once.

“Nightshift” questions the place of women in a patriarchal society where self-discovery, self-preservation and resistance come in different forms. As usual, through photography I try to be conscious of things, instead of being a victim of things.

Catherine Cattaruzza

In “I Can’t Recall The Edges,” the landscape itself is not what interests me; it’s what lies beneath — the layers of history, politics, et cetera. I try to capture the in-between spaces and moments; these very fragile states. I photograph places that are so familiar to me, that have always surrounded me. They are the places of my very first childhood memories, these non-places of Beirut. Visual, or technical, accidents (I don’t manipulate the shots) serve the project — they contribute to the disappearance of those spaces and talk about their fragility; the intangible, the uncontrollable.


Couturier Gaurav Gupta on the Met Gala, dressing Beyonce and his Arab clients

Updated 14 May 2024
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Couturier Gaurav Gupta on the Met Gala, dressing Beyonce and his Arab clients

  • Gaurav Gupta flew to Dubai to showcase his latest collection just before he made his Met Gala debut by dressing actress Mindy Kaling
  • ‘We have many Arab brides coming to us for their wedding dresses,’ he told Arab News

DUBAI: Indian couturier Gaurav Gupta is no stranger to the limelight. Over the past two years, his clothes have become regular sightings at the Oscars, Grammys and the Cannes Film Festival. His celebrity client list gets longer by the season, especially since his debut on the Paris Haute Couture Week calendar in January 2023.

Last year, he was in the news globally for dressing Beyonce not once but three times during her world tour and this week he made his Met Gala debut by dressing Hollywood’s Mindy Kaling at the coveted event in New York. Arab News spoke to the designer during a recent visit to Dubai, where he was exhibiting select pieces from his Spring/Summer 2024 couture collection. 

“I don’t have the entire collection here, many of the pieces are still with celebrities in (Los Angeles),” laughed Gupta. The collection, titled “Arohanam,” embodies his tryst with sculptural garments and sees him experiment with complex garment construction techniques.

“We’ve worked with new techniques like the reptilian cage embroidery with the bugle beads on some of the clothes. It was also the first time we’ve done metal casting – and there are snakes on a metal breastplate,” he explained.

“We’ve had clients from all over the world, including the Middle East,” the couturier said, adding that bridalwear is of particular interest to clients in the Gulf.

 “We have many Arab brides coming to us for their wedding dresses, so that’s why I brought the white gown that closed the Paris show,” he noted.  

As he approaches the two-decade mark of his brand, New Delhi-raised Gupta has much to commemorate. He is the third Indian designer to be a regular on the Paris Haute Couture Week Calendar and his international acclaim is skyrocketing.

In April, US icon Mariah Carey wore a crystal gown by the designer during a performance in Las Vegas, Shakira recently sported a gown by the designer in a magazine shoot and superstar Beyonce showcased three of his designs during her “Renaissance” tour — a custom crystal bodysuit, a neon green sari-style gown, and a crystal-encrusted gown that took 700 hours to create.

“Every moment we’ve shared with her has been iconic, they’re all so unique and are almost historic. Interestingly, the neon green sari wasn’t custom-made for her, it was from our ‘Hiranyagarbha’ collection. It was selected …and was sized for her.”

Did he envision this when he embarked on his journey all those years ago?

“I always felt that something significant would happen and now it’s all unfolding at once. I’m in that overwhelming swirl of things right now,” he said.


British Lebanese actress Razane Jammal named Cartier ambassador 

Updated 14 May 2024
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British Lebanese actress Razane Jammal named Cartier ambassador 

DUBAI: British Lebanese actress Razane Jammal has been named Cartier’s newest brand ambassador. 

“It is my absolute honor to be joining the Cartier family,” the actress, famous for her roles in the Netflix series “The Sandman” and “Paranormal,” said in a statement. “I look forward to work with a Maison known for its timelessness and iconicity.” 

Jammal – who also made headlines for her role in the show “Al-Thaman” – took to Instagram to share a series of images from a shoot with the French luxury label. 

In one ensemble, she wore a black suit, complemented by understated gold jewelry, including a necklace, a watch, a bracelet, a ring and earrings.

In another look, she was adorned in a white blazer, accentuating with dangling diamond earrings and a coordinating necklace.

This is not the first time Jammal has worked with Cartier. 

In March, she starred in the brand’s Ramadan campaign alongside Saudi athlete Husein Alireza, Egyptian Montenegrin model and actress Tara Emad, Tunisian actor Dhaffer L’Abidine and Emirati host Anas Bukhash. 

In March 2023, Jammal walked the runway at a Cartier event in Dubai. She wore a black form-fitting dress with a plunging neckline, a thigh-high slit from the center and padded shoulders. 

She walked alongside a long list of celebrities from the Arab world including Saudi actress and filmmaker Fatima Al-Banawi, Egyptian veteran star Yusra, Egyptian Tunisian actress Hend Sabri, French Algerian filmmaker Farida Khelfa, Somali model Rawdah Mohamed, Emad, L’Abidine, and Bukhash. 

In January this year, Jammal was also named the brand ambassador for French luxury label Dior’s beauty line Dior Beauty.

“It was such an incredible experience to represent the iconic fashion house of @dior. It is a privilege to be able to represent my culture within a brand with a strong history of empowering women,” she wrote to her Instagram followers at the time. “I’m grateful to see my Dior family grow and to be aligned with exceptional women from both sides of the pond. Thank you for your trust in me.”

In October 2022, she was named the Middle East’s ambassador for Dior, the fashion house. 


Saudi Film Commission takes charge of cinema sector

Updated 13 May 2024
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Saudi Film Commission takes charge of cinema sector

  • First phase includes regulating licensing for the operation of permanent, temporary and special cinemas
  • CEO Abdullah Al-Qahtani: The Film Commission will undertake a comprehensive review of all procedures related to the cinematic sector

JEDDAH: Saudi Arabia’s Film Commission has announced it will now have oversight over the cinema sector, which will no longer fall under the jurisdiction of the General Authority of Media Regulation.

The Council of Ministers had ordered the change, which has now been implemented after the completion of the required regulations, the Saudi Press Agency reported on Monday. 

The first phase includes regulating licensing for the operation of permanent, temporary and special cinemas, as well as the production, distribution and import of movies, videos and television programs.

Abdullah Al-Qahtani, the commission’s CEO, said: “The Film Commission will undertake a comprehensive review of all procedures related to the cinematic sector with the aim of their development and enhancement.

“Key improvements will focus on enhancing the customer experience by streamlining and optimizing the processes required for all activities in the cinematic sector. This will involve reviewing the licensing requirements for the film sector, as well as simplifying the licensing process and application for related services.”

The commission posted on X: “The film and cinema sector jurisdiction has been transferred from the General Authority for Media Regulation to the Film Commission. This move, facilitated by continuous cooperation and support between the two bodies, underscores the commission’s ongoing commitment to developing and improving the sector.”

The commission’s board has approved a reduction in fees for cinema licenses. It has also waived operational license fees for three years until 2027, covering permanent, temporary, and special cinema halls. Applications for licenses can now be made through the unified electronic platform Abde’a.


US students stage walkout to protest Jerry Seinfeld’s ceremony speech

Updated 13 May 2024
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US students stage walkout to protest Jerry Seinfeld’s ceremony speech

DUBAI: Several students walked out of Duke University’s commencement ceremony on Sunday to protest its guest speaker, comedian Jerry Seinfeld, over his support of Israel amid the war in Gaza.

Video of the incident posted on X (formerly known as Twitter) shows a group of students walking out of their seats and carrying a Palestinian flag as soon as the comedian and TV star was called to the stage. 

The attention to the protesters was quickly diverted by the cheering crowd, who chanted, “Jerry! Jerry!” as Seinfeld would go on to give his speech and accept an honorary degree from Duke.

However, several boos and chants of “Free Palestine” could also be heard.

Seinfeld has been vocal in his support for Israel following Hamas’ Oct. 7 attack.

The comedian also met with families of the hostages and visited a kibbutz during a trip to Israel in December.

The walkout at Duke's graduation was the latest manifestation of protests that have taken over US campuses as students call for universities to divest from arms suppliers and other companies profiting from the war.


US actor Mahershala Ali to star in NYC thriller ‘77 Blackout’

Updated 13 May 2024
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US actor Mahershala Ali to star in NYC thriller ‘77 Blackout’

DUBAI: Two-time Oscar winner Mahershala Ali is set to star with Tom Hardy in “77 Blackout,” a crime thriller set on the night when New York lost power and was plunged into chaos and lawlessness. 

Cary Joji Fukunaga is directing, Deadline reported.

In 1977, five rogue police officers formulate a plan to rob three criminal strongholds – the Hong Kong Triads, the Italian Mafia, and the Harlem Mob – all in one night. When a blackout sweeps the city on the night of the robbery, the crew is forced to navigate a hellish landscape.

Ali is most known for two Best Picture-winning flicks: 2016’s “Moonlight” and 2018’s “Green Book.”

Hardy is known for blockbusters such as Christopher Nolan’s “Inception” and director George Miller’s 2015 action epic “Mad Max: Fury Road.”