DUBAI: New York chef Chris Jaeckle has brought his acclaimed Venetian-Japanese table to Dubai in the form of All’onda, providing a fusion feast that promises to tickle your taste buds and leave you uttering the term ‘umami’ all night long.
Stepping into the large establishment, which is tucked in at the edge of Dubai’s Palm Jumairah on the roof of the Emerald Palace Kempinski, customers are greeted by dim lights and a long, marble gondola-shaped bar. Above the opaque, reflective walls, the roof resembles the bottom of the famed Venetian vessel, as if you were underwater looking up at it.
Chef Jaeckle started off the evening with a short speech, explaining how two cuisines that are roughly 9,500 km apart geographically can be brought together on the same plate.
The answer was “grandmothers.”
Both Italian and Japanese cuisines, Jaeckle claimed, are overseen by stubborn grandmas who are adamant that great dishes are made in a very particular way. And that any and all other ways are completely wrong.
And with that our feast began.
We were welcomed by a sashimi platter filled with colorful raw fish, from orange salmon to red tuna. We were told to soak each piece in a broth of herbs that would be sucked in by the fleshy fish and give the flavor an extra punch. And never have I been so delighted to receive a punch.
Next came white fish sashimi that’s been marinated in a yuzu sauce and topped with grapes and raw scallops that have been encased in soy-gelatinous paper that melts in the mouth. Jaeckle described it as “Japanese ravioli.”
These two dishes were a perfect representation of the restaurant’s main inspirations and aim, but, unfortunately, they were also the last. While the remainder of the meal still managed to hint at a blend of Japanese and Venetian flavors, the emphasis was always — heavily — on the Italian side.
Following the raw fish course, we were served some cold and warm appetizers. The noodle salad topped with peanuts and prawns was a tangy taste trip that kept me scrapping the bottom of the bowl, and the burrata oozed freshness — the watermelon paired delightfully with the gooey, stretchy cheese.
Next to arrive at the table was a lineup of pasta (prepared in-house) courses — solid, hearty Italian dishes such as risotto and tagliatelle. The prawn-and-saffron risotto was the winner of the night, with the subtle saffron notes and creamy parmesan-based sauce blending beautifully with the lightly seasoned grilled prawns. The lobster tagliatelle was also very good, but you’d expect to say that of any Italian establishment in Dubai.
And then came the meats: A large, Osso Bucco sat in the center of the table, with diners encouraged to carve up their favorite parts of the devilishly tender beef soaked in rich gravy and served with a smaller risotto.
We also sampled the grilled, marinated salmon served on a bed of mashed potato and topped with crispy, chargrilled artichoke which screamed umami.
Over the course of the evening then, we tasted many bold flavors, and all dishes were beautifully presented. But while the restaurant promises an Italian-Japanese fusion, its safe to say that only really came through in a few of the dishes we tasted. But if you’re hankering for risotto and juicy, tender meat, and fancy eating somewhere with a great view of mainland Dubai under the glimmering night sky, then All’onda’s the place for you.
