DUBAI: There is no dearth of restaurants in Dubai with big ticket celebrity chefs’ names embossed on the door. However, when one has been eight years in the making, expectations run high. That is particularly so when it is coming from not one but two renowned chefs who run Michelin-starred restaurants in London.
The Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, have been exploring entering this market for a while now, but wanted to wait until they had the right partners and team in place. It was about three years ago that that they finally committed, when they found that Dubai-based holding company Meraas’ vision for the Citywalk complex aligned perfectly with their “family-led” ethos.
The duo’s French brasserie and patisserie concept, Demoiselle, is located in the complex and it is soon to be joined by their newest restaurant, Galvin Dubai.
The older of the two brothers, Chris Galvin, is in Dubai to launch the restaurant and spoke to Arab News on the upcoming launch and the pair’s dining style.
“I’m a big family person, I like the thought of people having lunch or dinner, catching up, celebrating things together, that’s what our restaurants are about.”
This affinity with family may have something to do with their uniqueness — they are the only brother-duo celebrity chef brand with multiple awards and Michelin-starred restaurants to their credit. What most people do not know is that there is a third (middle) brother who also works with them in the business, but stays behind the scenes handling procurement and supplies.
Chris describes his relationship with Jeff as balanced and credits their individual humility for perfecting this dynamic. “I’m more of a dreamer, he’s more of a technician,” he said. “But the best thing about working together is knowing you’re always there for each other. We love each other desperately and we don’t talk an awful lot, but we have that funny thing where we know what the other one is doing.”
So, what did they jointly conjure up for their first fine dining restaurant outside the UK? For one, they have created a wholly bespoke concept for this region, instead of simply transplanting one of their existing successful brands.
Explaining the inspiration behind the concept, Chris said: “As soon as I step off the plane here, I immediately start to think of lighter foods, salads, carpaccio and so on — that’s what I want to eat here, I think Mediterranean flavors work well. We started thinking about the Mediterranean basin, which I don’t think I’ve ever heard of anyone else using before — this is a first. We’ve drawn influences from the west coast of Italy, south of France, Spain’s eastern coast and even North Africa — all of those flavors, you will find here. It’s light, sun-kissed, with hints of the spices of southern Europe.”
The menu will evolve according to the seasons, with seasonal ingredients — another key pillar of the Galvin brand — playing a big part. Chris defined the culinary philosophy as “market-led ingredients, carefully and simply cooked, humbly served in a highly professional but relaxed environment with first-class service.”
All of these boxes seem to have been successfully ticked in the Dubai restaurant. Whether it is the pretty-as-a-picture organic beetroot salad, with a delicate truffle goat’s curd texturally complemented by candied walnuts and chard, or the succulent pot roast chicken with puy lentils and pearl barley risotto, dripping with flavor, the menu seems to effectively capture the “flavors of the sun” that it set out to, underpinned by the finesse of French technique that the brothers have built their reputation on.
Some Galvin signature dishes are on offer as well, including their not-to-be-missed lasagna of Devon crab — a mousse-like confection of crab and scallop meat encased in a light pasta parcel atop a buttery, flavor-packed bisque, drizzled with lobster oil as a finishing touch.
It is masterful dishes such as this that will help the new restaurant stand out in a competitive market with discerning diners. “There’s a lot of energy here, I’ve always thought the Middle East was exciting,” Chris said. “Diners here really know what they want. I find there’s a lot of interest in what restaurants offer, and there’s a broad spectrum of different concepts to explore.”
And explore they will. Chris believes than a country like Saudi Arabia could be a successful new home for a concept like Demoiselle, in particular.
“I don’t know enough about the rest of the region yet, we haven’t really looked at it properly, but now I think we really should,” he said. “I just had a friend who is an international restaurant consultant suggest to me as well that we ought to explore Saudi Arabia. We’d be open to looking into it, as long as we can find the right ingredients and people… and feel like we can honestly, competently deliver something that we’d be proud of.”
This emphasis on having the right people on the ground resonates throughout our conversation. While the hand-picked Dubai team is ably led by head chef Luigi Vespero (who formerly worked with the brothers in London), Chris promises that theirs will not be yet another “soulless” restaurant with just their name above the door. “It has to bear scrutiny,” he says. “Whatever we do has to be there for a reason.”
Celebrity chef brothers bring their signature cooking to the Mideast
Celebrity chef brothers bring their signature cooking to the Mideast
Turkiye applies to have doner kebab protected under EU law
- Meat-based dish could join the likes of Champagne, Serrano ham if approved
- Bloc can apply protections based on heritage value, ingredients, method of production
LONDON: Turkiye has applied to have the doner kebab protected under EU law, Metro newspaper reported.
The bloc famously enforces strict regulations on certain foods — including French Champagne, Spanish Serrano ham and Neapolitan pizza — in order to safeguard their production and preserve regional culinary heritage.
Issues including the sourcing of ingredients, method and place of production all go into determining what can and cannot be labeled as a protected food, with harsh penalties for those found to be profiting from items deemed not to match the legal criteria.
The doner kebab will undergo a three-month evaluation process to determine whether it too will join the exclusive list of dishes and foodstuffs.
During the process, other countries will be permitted to challenge the application over similarities to their own products, as happened in 2021 when Italy voiced opposition to the Croatian sparkling wine Prosek receiving protected status due to its apparent similarities to Prosecco.
Traditionally formed of meat marinated in salt, pepper, a number of other herbs and spices as well as tomato puree and yoghurt, the doner kebab can contain beef, lamb or chicken.
It is placed on a skewer and rotated against a fire, with thin strips sliced off and served in a flatbread or pitta with lettuce, tomato and onion.
Beef and lamb slices should be 3-5 mm in thickness, while chicken should be thinner at 1-3 mm per slice.
The dish is believed to be worth around $3.6 million annually to Europe’s economy, according to the Association of Turkish Doner Producers.
Where We Are Going Today: Sawada cafe in Riyadh
Sawada cafe is located in a plaza overlooking Olaya Street, Riyadh, making it an ideal getaway from the bustle of the city.
The coffee shop offers specialty coffees and desserts, but what sets it apart is its ambiance, with a bohemian-influenced interior design style, soft lighting, and decorative wheat plants lining the walls of the seating area.
Eclectic paintings from Saudi artists are displayed on the walls, providing an artistic touch.
Sawada is ideal for those looking for a quiet and calm spot to relax with friends. It is also good for studying or working — if you can ignore the light, ambient music playing in the background.
Various seating areas are available, including booths bordering the walls and benches overlooking the barista area. A designated smoking area with seating is well separated from nonsmokers sitting indoors.
Customers can also grab their coffees and head to the outdoor seating area or take a walk on the path outside the cafe.
With so many coffee shops and cafes opening in Riyadh, it can be difficult finding authenticity when it comes to coffee beans. But Sawada’s quality is revealed in its V60 drink, a pour-over coffee that highlights the subtle and smooth flavors of the beans.
The menu is standard, with many local favorites, including Spanish latte, flat white, cortado, cappuccino, and tea. Iced tea, an ideal thirst quencher in Riyadh’s summer heat, is also available.
Sawada offers a variety of desserts that can be paired with coffee, including pecan tart, classic date cake, croissants, sweet bars made out of dates, and toffee crumble.
Our recommended options are the chocolate cookies, the classic cheesecake, and the San Sebastian cake. A Snickers and Ferrero Rocher cake also looked appetizing.
We tried the matcha, but the large amount of milk overpowered the flavors of the tea. We recommend trying the signature or Spanish latte instead.
For updates and more information, check Instagram @sawada.ksa.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Jon & Vinny’s restaurant in Riyadh
- The atmosphere and decoration of the restaurant are standard, with wooden bench-style seating and walls decorated using pizza boxes
Los Angeles-based Italian restaurant Jon & Vinny’s has opened a location in Riyadh serving pizza, pasta, desserts and coffee.
Located in Al-Sulimaniyah, the Italian restaurant has four locations in the US, all in California: Fairfax, Brentwood, Slauson and Beverly Hills.
The Riyadh restaurant features a more casual laid-back dining experience as opposed to other Italian restaurants in the Saudi capital that offer a more refined dining atmosphere.
If you are looking for a luxury restaurant for a quiet date night, this is not the best option, but if you are searching for a trendy hang-out spot, Jon & Vinny’s is suitable for you.
The atmosphere and decoration of the restaurant are standard, with wooden bench-style seating and walls decorated using pizza boxes.
The restaurant founders, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, attended the grand opening in Riyadh on April 17, saying that their mission is to offer authentic food that captures traditional Italian flavors.
The prices on the menu are average, with dishes ranging from SR65-75 ($17-20).
The menu offers a wide variety of pizzas, from “The Rosy,” a tomato and olive oil pizza with parmesan, to the “The Lola,” with fresh burrata, tomato, basil olive oil and a dash of sea salt.
One thing to note is that the pizza is quite authentic compared to other options in the city. The pizza crust is crispy, light and airy, allowing the freshness of the tomatoes and herbs to shine through.
Unlike other Italian restaurants, Jon and Vinny’s also offers different options for crust dips, such as ranch, garlic, buffalo, creamy Italian, pomodoro and olive oil.
In terms of drinks, the options on the menu include juices, soft drinks and caffeinated beverages such as americanos, cappuccinos and other coffee.
You may try the house-made lemonade, which is refreshing but a bit on the sour side. It is definitely great for guests looking for something tangy and refreshing for the Saudi summer heat.
For pasta options, you can try the pesto pasta, known on the menu as the pesto parmigiano oregano. The pasta is perfectly cooked al dente and the sauce is tasty but nothing new or innovative.
The lemon pasta and the spicy fusilli are the two highlight dishes of the restaurant.
When it comes to meat, there are limited choices on the menu. You may try the braised meatballs with ricotta and garlic bread.
The meatballs are very flavorful and seasoned well, with the flavors of the spices in the meatballs complimenting the simple and fresh red sauce.
The garlic bread which is offered with the meatballs is a bit on the charred side.
Another notable option on the menu is the Caesar salad with cheese sticks.
The freshness and quality of the ingredients shine through in the simple dishes.
The restaurant is very trendy and social-media friendly. The wall of Jon and Vinny’s pizza boxes is the perfect backdrop for photos.
Although the restaurant is small, it does offer an open-style kitchen where guests can approach the kitchen area and see the chefs cooking each meal.
For dessert, the restaurant offers a variety of sweets, including cheesecake and chocolate cake.
You will find the staff incredibly friendly.
Jon & Vinny’s offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is open from 8 a.m. to midnight.
Renowned London restaurant and Emirati fashion label launch t-shirt collection
DUBAI: Acclaimed Persian restaurant Berenjak Dubai, hailing from London, has joined forces with Shabab Intl. to launch a range of stylish t-shirts.
In sleek black, the t-shirts – now on sale at the restaurant – feature a Berenjak-inspired print on the back. The logos of both the restaurant and Shabab Intl. are depicted on the front.
Images for the launch campaign were shot by Dubai creative Cheb Moha, who leads the fashion label.
“We’re thrilled to be at Berenjak,” he told Arab News. “Personally, I am a huge fan and make it a point to dine there at least once especially when I’m in London.”
Moha’s deep appreciation for Berenjak stems from an enduring passion for Persian cuisine and cultural heritage, he said.
“Having Shabab there is particularly special for us, and I am confident that it will open doors for more collaborations. With our Shabab community present, it is exciting for them to witness this crossover between our origins and the spaces we inhabit at the restaurant. We are thrilled to stand alongside Berenjak and to have Shabab represented there.”
Moha added his t-shirt designs aimed for simplicity and clarity.
“I wanted to incorporate our identity with Berenjak’s identity and the identity of (the) city we are in, which is Dubai,” he said.
“If you notice, the graphic on the back of the t-shirt is sort of sun shaped. That is part of the Shabab spirit, the sunrise. And if you look in the windows, Berenjak also has a sun motif in the glass. I wanted to incorporate that and feel like there is a nice synergy between both brands.”
Moha also feels there is a crossover between fashion and food. “I feel like there’s always been a pipeline between both. They do complement each other in some way,” he said.
Berenjak, founded by chef Kian Samyani and award-winning London restaurant group JKS Restaurants, is a renowned Persian restaurant that has made its mark by bringing a contemporary twist to classic dishes.
Where We Are Going Today: Kaak Al-Farah
Kaak Al-Farah — which translates as “the cookie of joy” — is an Instagram shop that offers kaak, a traditional date-filled treat enjoyed in Saudi Arabia and other Middle Eastern countries.
A cherished part of celebrations such as Eid Al-Fitr, Eid Al-Adha, weddings and baby showers, kaak are similar to maamoul cookies, which include semolina.
Kaak Al-Farah makes each cookie with care, using ornate molds to shape the date-stuffed dough. After baking, the cookies are packed in a beautiful reusable box.
Made from locally sourced ingredients, including wheat, dates and traditional Saudi flavors such as cardamom and cloves, each bite is a celebration of the region’s rich culinary heritage.
What makes Kaak Al-Farah stand out is not just the delightful taste of the cookies but also the thoughtful packaging which reflects the essence of Saudi culture.
The round box features designs redolent of the joyful spirit found in Saudi communities, including a cheerful ring of colorful flowers symbolizing happiness and beauty and a portrait of a lady representing peace and love. Added to each box is a personalized greeting card.
Kaak Al-Farah delivers to various cities throughout the Kingdom and can be found on delivery apps including The Chefz and Hayak.
For more information, visit their Instagram profile — @kaak.alfarah.
