TOKYO: Japanese sushi maestro Jiro Ono, whose creations were recently enjoyed by US President Barack Obama and are reputedly the best in the world, warned Tuesday of a sea change in ingredients due to overfishing.
“I can’t imagine at all that sushi in the future will be made of the same materials we use today,” the 89-year-old master told the Foreign Correspondents Club of Japan.
Ono owns the three Michelin-starred Sukiyabashi Jiro restaurant — dubbed the world’s best sushi establishment — and was the subject of the 2011 documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.”
“I told my young men three years ago sushi materials will totally change in five years,” he added. “And now, such a trend is becoming a reality little by little.”
Ono referred in particular to a short supply of high-quality domestic tuna, which has prompted sushi dealers in Japan to source Atlantic bluefin varieties instead.
His eldest son Yoshikazu, 53, who helps Ono run the restaurant, explained growing demand for tuna amid a global sushi boom is leading the domestic industry to depend more and more on farmed fish.
The younger Ono also warned of a shrinking stock of highly prized shellfish such as abalone and ark shell, which need more than five years to mature.
“They catch them all together (before some are ready), pushing the stock to deplete.”
Their basement restaurant, which seats just 10 at a counter, opened its doors in 1965 and has remained in an ageing commercial building in a corner of the Ginza district ever since.
It has gained fame for Ono’s rigid discipline and pursuit of perfection, earning three Michelin stars every year since 2007 when the Tokyo edition of the gourmet guide was launched.
When US President Barack Obama traveled to Tokyo last April, he joined a long list of Ono’s celebrity guests, including French master chef Joel Robuchon and Hollywood stars Hugh Jackman and Katy Perry.
As Obama and Abe went straight into “business-like talks,” focusing on trade, the senior Ono kept serving his own selection of 20 pieces as he does to everyone else, his son said.
“He (Obama) seemed to like chu-toro (medium fatty tuna) very much because he winked when he ate it.”
Japan’s star sushi chef warns of raw deal
Japan’s star sushi chef warns of raw deal
Where We Are Going Today: Rowly’s in Riyadh
- The ambience inside is both playful and rustic, with tables covered with classic red checkered cloth and the bar lined with bottles of Coca-Cola
From London to Dubai and now bringing in crowds in Riyadh, Rowly’s steakhouse opened its doors to customers in KAFD Riyadh at the end of 2025. Known for its signature fox logo and iconic mono-dish menu, the restaurant is for steak lovers looking to get a taste of London in Riyadh.
Upon arrival, a long line forms beneath the restaurant’s red banner, where guests can pass the time with Rowly’s “Match the Box” game, an interactive touch that introduces the brand’s theme before stepping inside.
The ambience inside is both playful and rustic, with tables covered with classic red checkered cloth and the bar lined with bottles of Coca-Cola. Decks of Uno and other games are provided throughout the space for those looking to enjoy themselves over their meal. Fox portraits decorate the restaurant, really bringing the theme together.
This playfulness extends to Rowly’s menu itself, where steak and side options are written on a large sheet of paper on the table and guests can check off their desired steak style, fries, salad, and sauce.
The menu features striploin, ribeye, and their special steak option. The waiter recommended I pair my Australian striploin with their secret sauce, accompanied by a side of truffle fries and a house salad.
The Australian striploin was priced at SR145 ($39), and you are able to add an extra 100 grams for SR60. I ordered my steak medium-cooked; it was delicious and paired wonderfully with my sides. I also got a Coke Zero to complete the classic meal.
While we waited for our order, we were able to use the menu sheet for games such as XP, word search puzzles, and maze puzzles, alongside the card decks provided.
For dessert, I tried the chocolate mousse, the perfect way to wrap up a traditional, enjoyable meal.
Rowly’s is a lively new addition to Riyadh’s dining scene, ideal for those willing to spend a little more time than usual for a fun yet high-end steak experience. I would recommend Rowley’s to families and friends looking for a straightforward menu that delivers high-quality meat in an energetic setting.
