Any restaurant claiming to provide the “best Thai food in Riyadh” should be ready to stand up to comparison.

Plucky The Villa, hyped-up Thai Soi, and well-loved Baan Thai are some contenders that might take issue with the declaration.

But Azian Hauz, whose social media accounts are emblazoned with the assertion of being No. 1, might turn out to be worthy competition.

A fairly unassuming exterior in the city’s Yarmuk district gives way to an airy, bright interior replete with what feels like a forest of admittedly artificial greenery.

While the service cannot be faulted, the uninspiring chicken satay did not get us off on the right foot.  

The skewered meat lacked panache and the sauce was thinner than I would have preferred.

At the same time, our lumpia rolls delivered several satisfying crunches of flavor.

For the main course, a red curry lamb shank emerged, a delectable Thai take on a slow-cooked favorite.

But the absolute standout was my companion’s beef sisig. Admittedly not a Thai dish, this incredible concoction of Filipino origin alone makes the restaurant a must-visit.

The salty, sizzling, umami-laden plate was made complete tableside by an egg freshly cracked and stirred into the liver, steak and onions to create an almost transcendent course.

This was capped off by an obligatory round of mango sticky rice, which delivered everything that could be asked of it.

So, does Azian Hauz live up to its bold claim to serve the best Thai food in Riyadh?

I think more culinary research is required before a conclusion is drawn.

Nonetheless, the restaurant is a solid all-round choice with some outstanding areas and I would not hesitate to recommend it.