New book series ‘Arabian Explorers’ reintroduces seminal works on Arabian history

William Gifford Palgrave's travel itinerary. (Supplied)
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Updated 30 January 2025
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New book series ‘Arabian Explorers’ reintroduces seminal works on Arabian history

  • Travelogues from Burton, Doughty, Wellsted and Palgrave feature in Arabian Explorers Series  

DUBAI: Driven by romanticism, imperial ambition, and scholarly curiosity, a succession of European adventurers set sail for Arabia throughout the 19th century, laden with expectation and a desire to unravel its mysteries. For many, the goal was a deeper understanding of the region’s history, religion, geography, peoples, and wildlife, as well as the uncovering of Biblical truth. For some, natural history, ethnology, cartography, and archaeology were combined into a single expedition, resulting in the publication of multi-disciplinary personal narratives that fed the Victorian hunger for adventure, discovery, and escapism. 

Among them were Charles Montagu Doughty — the first European to enter Hegra, the Nabateans’ second city after Petra — and James Raymond Wellsted, a second lieutenant of the East India Company, who survived a hurricane off the coast of Magna and took part in a detailed study of the Gulf of Aqaba. Arguably the most famous, however, was the eccentric Englishman Richard Francis Burton, a complex figure remembered for his keen sense of adventure, overt Orientalism, and undertaking the Hajj in disguise. He also embarked on an outlandish mission in search of the legendary gold mines of Midian, an ancient region or tribal confederation mentioned in both the Qur’an and the Bible and thought to be located in north-west Arabia. 

The newly-published Arabian Explorers Series reintroduces travelogues by all three, as well as by William Gifford Palgrave, an intriguing figure who served variously as a soldier, interpreter, priest, missionary, spy, and diplomat. Published by Empty Quarter Press, the series seeks to bring the authors’ vivid depictions of Arabia to a new audience. 




William Gifford Palgrave. (Supplied)

“Throughout their journeys, each author recorded some of the most detailed analyses and observations of Arabia in the English language and precious details about society, cultural customs, political structures, ancient heritage sites, and the shifting power dynamics of the peninsula in this period,” says Jeff Eamon, editor-in-chief at Empty Quarter Press. “We aim to couch each text in its proper context so readers can appreciate their significant historical value (and) understand each author’s subjectivities and perspectives.” 

The reprints include newly commissioned maps, glossaries, and forewords by leading historians, placing these complex and often provocative legacies in context. Included are new editions of Palgrave’s “Personal Narrative of a Year’s Journey Through Central and Eastern Arabia (1862-63),” first published in 1865; volume one of Burton’s “The Land of Midian (Revisited),” originally published in 1879; Wellsted’s “Travels in Arabia Volume Two,” printed in 1838; and Doughty’s “Travels in Arabia Deserta Volume One,” a monumental text first published in 1888. 

“Much of the written information that we have about 19th-century Arabia comes from these travelogues,” explains Eamon. “They have long provided precious information for scholars, students of history, and general readers interested in Arabian culture, social customs, and heritage. With Saudi Arabia’s current investment in its wealth of cultural assets and heritage sites, these publications are amazing sources of information. Doughty, for instance, is the first to document Hegra in minute detail, with detailed sketches of the Nabataean tombs, which have become a major part of Saudi Arabia’s cultural offering.” 




Charles Montagu Doughty was the first known European to enter Hegra and he provided glimpses of the area through his sketches. (Supplied)

The four travelogues have inspired academic inquiry for over a century, but have also sparked debate, not least because of the biases inherent in their authors’ views. Burton in particular, has faced accusations of Orientalism and of perpetuating stereotypical views of Arabia. His observations were often tinged with a sense of superiority and colonial arrogance, although he had great admiration for both Islam and Arab culture. 

“Burton’s views on the Arab world were complicated,” admits Dane Kennedy, a historian of the British imperial world and author of the foreword to “The Land of Midian (Revisited).” “His comments on the Bedouin could be highly critical, though he also promoted a romanticized view of them as princes of the desert. Furthermore, he was a forceful defender of the Islamic faith and Arab culture, so much so that many of his countrymen ostracized him, believing him to be a convert to Islam. 

“He was a man of many talents and vast contradictions. He was both an agent of British imperialism and a critic of it. He was a bigot and a relativist. He was, above all, a man of immense curiosity about other cultures, and he sought to satisfy that curiosity by learning some 25 languages, travelling widely across India, Arabia, Africa, Latin America, and other lands, and often acquiring an intimate knowledge of the local communities he encountered.” 

Palgrave, who made a foolhardy attempt to cross the Nafud desert in July without local guides and barely made it to salvation in Jubbah, also viewed the world through a Eurocentric, colonial lens. The first Westerner to successfully cross the Arabian Peninsula from the Red Sea to the Arabian Gulf (west to east), he travelled in disguise — as a Syrian physician — and filled his narrative with vivid, compelling observations of the landscapes, tribal dynamics, and cultural practices of the Arabian Peninsula. He achieved immediate acclaim upon the publication of “Personal Narrative,” thanks in part to his love of storytelling. 

“We are now more than 150 years on from Palgrave’s Arabian travels and his narrative can be read on various levels — from travelogue to adventure story,” says James Parry, a cultural heritage writer and author of the foreword to the new edition of “Personal Narrative.” “It’s worth remembering that he had a great sense of theatre and wrote his account with his audience very much in mind — it’s a very entertaining read. His descriptions of the places and tribes he visited are fascinating, even if some of his comments about local people and customs are seen as problematic today. They need to be understood as the product of their time, and his account as an historical document.” 

All four travelogues filled in much of the outside world’s knowledge of the Arabian Peninsula. Burton’s account of his journey from Cairo to Makkah, for example, gave the British public a much richer understanding of the region and its peoples. 

“Despite their flaws, it is important to recognize that each author spent years travelling in Arabia, learning the language and customs of its people long before mass transit made the peninsula easily accessible to outsiders,” says Eamon. “While some of their observations can be dismissed now, they nonetheless help paint a picture of pre-industrial Arabia.  

“History-telling is fickle,” he adds. “It carries with it the same baggage that weighs down any human experience. The Arabian Explorers Series is just this: a collection of human experiences, however flawed, that contribute to the broader mosaic that is the history of Arabia.” 


Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy (center) with his son (right) and longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami (left). (AN photo)
Updated 14 December 2025
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Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

  • Slow-cooked sheep’s head is drawing new generations and visitors to Jeddah’s historic district

JEDDAH: In the streets of Al-Balad, where centuries-old buildings frame one of Saudi Arabia’s most storied districts, culinary heritage continues to draw visitors as powerfully as architecture. 

Among the area’s enduring attractions is Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat, a family-run restaurant that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958, turning a once-necessity meal into a symbol of Saudi food culture and hospitality.

Tucked into Baba Makkah, Al-Balad’s historic core, Al-Shadwy began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. (AN photo)

Now run by the third generation of the Al-Shadwy family, the restaurant remains devoted to a single specialty; sheep’s head, slow-roasted over charcoal using a recipe unchanged for decades.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering.

Sixty-five-year-old owner Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, who inherited the restaurant from his grandfather and father, remains a familiar presence at the restaurant, overseeing the service and greeting customers. 

FASTFACTS

• Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat is a family-run restaurant in Al-Balad that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958.

• It began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

He told Arab News that the dish has been central to Saudi culinary culture for generations.

“The sheep’s head has been a staple in Saudi Arabia and other GCC countries culinary culture for centuries,” he said. “Traditionally, it was a meal served during cold winter mornings to provide energy and warmth. In many regions of Saudi Arabia, the sheep head (is) always on the top of the main plate for guests, and families festive holidays gather in restaurants or at home to enjoy the sheep’s head, making it a social and festive occasion.”

In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering. (AN photo)

Speaking about its significance in hospitality culture, he added: “Serving it to guests is considered an act of generosity and care.” Rich and filling, it is most commonly eaten as breakfast or an early morning meal.

Preparing sheep’s head is a slow, careful process. According to Al-Shadwy, the heads are cooked at low temperatures to soften the tendons and connective tissue, resulting in tender meat and deep flavor.

The preparation includes curing and slow cooking, a method that has remained largely unchanged at the restaurant for more than six decades. 

Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history.

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat owner

“I’ve cooked many sheep heads a while back and I still enjoy it,” he said. “Most of the customers actually prefer the head and the brain.”

Despite its small size and somewhat tucked-away location, the restaurant’s popularity is unmistakable. Long queues form outside each morning, often guiding first-time visitors to its door. A sign reading “Al-Shadwy Mandi” in Arabic marks the entrance, while the steady crowd confirms its reputation.

Over the years, the restaurant has attracted officials, celebrities and social media figures, with photographs of notable guests lining the walls. Al-Shadwy said the steady attention reflections Al-Balad’s growing appeal as a cultural and culinary destination.

He said that interest in sheep’s head is no longer limited to older generations. Younger Saudis, he said, are increasingly curious about traditional dishes, while tourists often see it as an adventurous experience. 

“For many visitors, trying sheep’s head is considered ‘extreme food’ or a challenging dish,” he said. “But it gives them a sense of adventure and a unique story to tell.”

Inside the lively restaurant one morning, longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami, who has been dining there for 40 years, described it as a rare example of authentic Saudi cuisine.

“I am a regular customer here and always come early in the morning because when you eat the sheep’s head it really gives you energy for work,” he said. 

Demand is highest in the early hours, particularly on Fridays. Al-Shadwy said the restaurant often sells out by mid-morning, making early visits essential.

“The number of sheep heads our restaurant sells daily varies but it reaches around 200 heads,” he added.

As he works alongside his two sons, Al-Shadwy says preserving the family legacy is as important as serving the fish. 

“Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history,” he said.