Feted Russian climber feared dead in fall from Pakistan peak

The image uploaded by Rupal Expeditions on September 6, 2023, shows Russian alpinist Dmitry Golovchenko (left), who is feared dead after falling from Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan, the world’s 17th tallest mountain, sometime last week, and his partner, Sergey Nilov. (Photo courtesy: Rupal Expeditions/Facebook)
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Updated 07 September 2023
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Feted Russian climber feared dead in fall from Pakistan peak

  • Climber ‘suffered a likely lethal fall’ from 7,925-meter Gasherbrum IV last week
  • Alpine Club Pakistan says missing climber was attempting a ‘high-difficulty route’

ISLAMABAD: An award-winning Russian alpinist is feared dead after falling from one of the world’s tallest mountains in Pakistan, officials said Thursday, potentially the fourth fatality in the nation’s 2023 summiting season.

Dmitry Golovchenko “suffered a likely lethal fall” from the 7,925-meter (26,000-foot) Gasherbrum IV — the world’s 17th tallest mountain — sometime last week, the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) said.

His partner Sergey Nilov was injured but made it back to the peak’s basecamp on Pakistan’s northeast border with China and was helicoptered out on Wednesday, the ACP said in a statement.\

The pair had been “attempting a high-difficulty route,” the statement said.

ACP secretary Karrar Haidri told AFP the alarm was raised by Golovchenko’s wife, whom he was in contact with during the climb, and that he suspected the veteran mountaineer had fallen into a crevasse.

Authorities plan to launch a search effort on Friday, he added.

The Kremlin’s embassy in Islamabad confirmed Russian mountaineers “encountered certain problems” on Gasherbrum IV and said it was “in direct contact with their families” in a statement to AFP.

Golovchenko and Nilov won a prestigious “Piolets d’Or” award — described as the “Oscars of the mountains” — in 2013 for their ascent of Pakistan’s approximately 7,300-meter Muztagh Tower.

The pair won a second time in 2017 for a daring summit of India’s Thalay Sagar via an unexplored buttress of ice and rock.

Golovchenko hailed from “a family of alpinists” and had been climbing with Nilov since 2002, his biography on the awards website said.

Pakistan is a hub for hardcore climbers, hosting five of the world’s 14 mountains above 8,000 meters.

The world’s second tallest mountain K2 is around 10 kilometers north of Gasherbrum IV in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, where the Karakoram mountain range is located.

The first casualty of Pakistan’s summer climbing season was Polish national Pawel Tomasz Kopec, killed in July by suspected altitude sickness while descending 8,125-meter Nanga Parbat.

Later that month, a Pakistani porter died as hundreds ascended the K2 summit, including Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Nepali guide Tenjin “Lama” Sherpa, who the same day became the fastest people to summit the world’s 14 highest mountains.

A Japanese man also reportedly fell to his death while climbing a never-scaled mountain in northern Pakistan in August.


Pakistan rejects India’s ‘irresponsible assertions’ after FM Jaishankar’s ‘bad neighbors’ remarks

Updated 03 January 2026
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Pakistan rejects India’s ‘irresponsible assertions’ after FM Jaishankar’s ‘bad neighbors’ remarks

  • Indian FM Jaishankar accused Pakistan of fomenting militancy, backed New Delhi’s decision to put Indus Waters Treaty in abeyance
  • Islamabad calls the remarks an attempt to deflect attention from India’s ‘troubling record as a neighbor,’ vows to safeguard rights

ISLAMABAD: Pakistan on Saturday rejected “irresponsible assertions” made by Indian External Affairs Minister S. Jaishankar after his remarks about “bad neighbors” and the 1960 Indus Waters Treaty (IWT) between the two countries.

Jaishankar mentioned about “bad neighbors” at an event in Madras on Friday and said that New Delhi had a right to defend itself. “When you have bad neighbors... if you look to the one to the West, if a country decides that they will deliberately, persistently, unrepentantly continue with terrorism, we have a right to defend our people,” he was quoted as saying by The Hindu newspaper.

The remarks came months after New Delhi blamed Pakistan for a militant attack in Indian-administered Kashmir and conducted missile strikes inside Pakistan. Islamabad, which denied involvement in the Kashmir attack, responded to the strikes, leading to a four-day military conflict that saw the use of armed drones, fighter jets and artillery between the neighbors in May.

In a statement, Pakistani foreign office spokesman Tahir Andrabi said Islamabad firmly rejects the irresponsible assertions made by the Indian external affairs minister, describing the remarks as an attempt to deflect attention from India’s own “troubling record as a neighbor that promotes terrorism and contributes to regional instability.”

“India’s documented involvement in promoting terrorist activities in the region, particularly in Pakistan, is well known. The case of Commander Kulbhushan Jadhav remains a stark example of organized, state-sponsored terrorism directed against Pakistan,” he said.

“Equally concerning are recurring instances of extraterritorial killings, sabotage through proxies, and covert support to terrorist networks.”

Jadhav, an Indian navy officer who Islamabad said had been working with Indian spy agency, RAW, when Pakistani agencies arrested him in Balochistan in 2016. He was later sentenced to death by a Pakistani military court for alleged espionage. India disputes the conviction and has challenged it at the International Court of Justice.

Pakistan and India routinely accuse each other of supporting militant groups waging attacks against the other. The two countries have fought multiple wars, including two of them over the disputed region of Kashmir, since their independence from British rule in 1947. Both rule the region in part but claim it in full.

Jaishankar also spoke on Friday about the IWT that divides control of the Indus basin rivers between the neighbors and ensures water for 80 percent of Pakistani farms. India announced in April, following the Kashmir attack, that it was putting the 1960 World Bank-mediated treaty in abeyance.

“Many years ago, we agreed to a water-sharing arrangement — the belief was it was gesture of goodwill — because of good neighborliness we were doing it … but if you have decades of terrorism, there is no good neighborliness and you don’t get the benefit of good neighborliness,” Jaishankar was quoted as saying.

Pakistan foreign office spokesman Andrabi said the IWT is an international agreement concluded in good faith and at a considerable cost.

“Any unilateral violation of the Treaty by India would undermine regional stability and call into question its credibility as a state that claims to respect international legal obligations,” he said.

“Pakistan will take all necessary measures to safeguard its legitimate rights under the Treaty.”