OM ESHR, Sudan: As generations of Sudanese have done before her, Wissal Abdel Ghany crouched next to a fire to prepare a traditional drink, a thirst-quenching favorite enjoyed during the fasting month of Ramadan.
In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with the Islamic holy month.
It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast.
“Without it, our table feels empty,” said Abdel Ghany, wearing a bright orange headscarf.
She sat in a small room in the village of Om Eshr, on the outskirts of the capital Khartoum, which teemed with a small force of women busily scraping and spreading a mixture before serving the beverage in clear glasses.
The drink has satisfied thirsty fasters for decades and recipes are “inherited from our mothers and grandmothers,” the 43-year-old said.
Corn is harvested and left to dry in the sun before being ground and mixed with spices such as fenugreek, cumin or even hibiscus — Sudan’s other essential Ramadan beverage.
This mixture is then soaked in sugar and water for several days.
Abdel Ghany spread a layer of the thick brown paste over a grill plate above the coals of a wood fire, cooking it into a thin, leather-colored film.
The resulting crepe-like layer is then peeled away and stored — ready to be soaked in the final step to create the beloved drink.
Served as cold as possible, the drink is one of many ways that fasting Sudanese cool off, a significant challenge in one of the world’s hottest countries.
The daytime fasting month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam.
Observant Muslims refrain from eating and drinking from dawn to dusk, after which they traditionally gather with family and friends to break their fast.
In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it, with diplomats wielding wooden spoons over embers and sipping the amber liquid.
Abdel Ghany said preparing the drink is a collective effort, bringing “together our sisters and friends.”
“We make it together to share among ourselves,” she said.
In Sudan’s cities, she added, some people don’t make it themselves.
“But they still have to offer it for dinner, so they buy it ready-made,” she said.
For Abdel Ghany, the preparation of helo-murr and the holy month cannot be separated.
“All it takes is a whiff of the scent coming out of a home to know that Ramadan is here,” she said.
Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink
https://arab.news/z56d7
Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink
- In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with Ramadan
- It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast
Where We Are Going Today: IOTA Coffee Shop in Riyadh
If you see a matcha specialty cafe in Riyadh with a long line of customers, it is most likely IOTA, located on Al-Sail Al-Kabeer street in Al-Ghadir district.
Matcha has replaced coffee as a morning drink for many locals, evident in the increased number of matcha specialty cafes and other outlets including matcha drinks on their menus.
Matcha is believed to be a great substitute for coffee as it contains more caffeine and powerful antioxidants. The matcha powder used at IOTA is premium ceremonial from Japan, handpicked and shaded between three to four weeks.
The famous ice matcha drink there retails at SR24 ($6.40), similar to the price of matcha drinks offered in Starbucks and local cafes in the Kingdom.
IOTA also sells its matcha powder along with the matcha essential kit, including a whisk and bowl.
Their matcha powder can be used to make authentic Japanese matcha tea, mixed in your morning oatmeal or bowl of granola for added benefit, or used in baked goods.
The cafe also offers a variety of cold and hot drinks, which sell at SR8 ($2.13) for a cup of tea, and SR24 ($6.40) for cloudy, a specialty hot coffee drink.
Other popular drinks include their drip hot coffee, iced cloudy, iced espresso and iced latte.
Plant-based milk options are available and include coconut milk, almond milk and soya milk.
IOTA also offers a variety of baked goods — and you never know what you might find there on a visit. Last winter, they served fresh custard and raspberry profiteroles, and beating the heat wave in August, IOTA put affogato to the menu — a shot of espresso added to a scoop of ice cream. They also serve matcha affogato.
IOTA opens daily from 6:30 a.m. to midnight from Sunday to Thursday, and from 7:30 a.m. to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.
They deliver through the Chefz app.
To check out their latest offerings, visit them on Instagram @iota.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: Lof Bakery in Alkhobar
- The bakery offers low-carb options and sandwiches, including a halloumi pesto and a mushroom melt
If you are looking to buy a loaf of freshly-baked, good quality sourdough bread in Alkhobar, head on over to Lof, a brunch spot situated in the middle of the City Walk.
It is believed that the ancient Egyptians were the first to create sourdough bread and in recent years it has become a staple in many households across the Kingdom for its health benefits. The sourdough loaf at Lof is made in-house by a master baker and perfectly sliced so it is ready to eat. While the SR35 ($9) price tag is a bit steep in comparison to loafs of bread at the local supermarket, it is certainly worth the dough.
It is ideal to use as a base for mashed avocados, to spread cheese on or any other topping of choice.
Lof also has an extensive menu that consists of a variety of quiches which go for SR25 each, and egg-lovers will be delighted to know that they will expertly prepare your eggs whichever way you prefer for around SR50. Add-ons are available and the staff are knowledgeable and helpful.
They also have decent coffees and pastries in the display case so you could either indulge at the cafe or take some goodies home to snack on later.
The bakery offers low-carb options and sandwiches, including a halloumi pesto and a mushroom melt.
Lof opens daily from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. from Sunday to Wednesday, from 9 a.m. to midnight from Thursday to Saturday, and from noon until midnight on Fridays.
They also deliver via Jahez or The Chefz apps.
To check out their latest offering, visit them on instagram @Lof.ksa.
Where We Are Going Today: Vapiano Italian restaurant in Jeddah
Chefs at the Vapiano Italian restaurant in Jeddah want their culinary creations to be a feast for customers’ eyes.
So much so, that the eatery’s open kitchen concept allows diners to watch them prepare meals.
And as part of the service, restaurant chefs will customize dishes to suit clients’ food preferences.
Located in the city’s Red Sea Mall, guests are given a chip card on arrival that enables them to place orders directly with the chefs.
A choice of salads includes the ceci e melograno featuring roasted sweet potato, roasted cauliflower, chickpeas, kale, baby spinach, pomegranate seeds, and pumpkin. Another option is pumpkin or tomato soup.
Starters include grilled lemon chicken skewers served with rocket and a garlic and herb dip, and creamy burrata cheese accompanied by artichoke pesto, marinated tomatoes, and basil pesto.
For pasta lovers the menu offers classic dishes such as pomodoro — spaghetti coated in a homemade tomato sauce of sun-ripened tomatoes and aromatic basil. The ratatouille combines penne pasta and fresh Mediterranean vegetables tossed in tomato sauce, and pizzas range from BBQ chicken to pepperoni.
Tiramisu, or mascarpone cream and strawberries, make up some of the desserts.
Go on Instagram at @vapianoksa for more details.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘MiSora’ - Japanese fusion food in Jeddah
- Abrahams told Arab News: “From the kitchen to the table, from the preparation to the presentation, our dishes will exude the traditions of Japan and I am confident that the locals will notice”
Following its recent grand opening, MiSora has become the latest addition to a growing list of restaurants in Jeddah offering Japanese fusion food.
Located on Prince Sultan Road in the city’s Al-Rawdah district, the fine-dining eatery has placed its focus on serving authentic Japanese cuisine.
Dishes include traditional sashimi and specialty rolls prepared with a regional approach, fresh ingredients, and eye-catching presentations.
Head chef Rafiq Abrahams has worked under the wings of top Middle East chefs such as Shane Macneill and Colin Clague.
Abrahams told Arab News: “From the kitchen to the table, from the preparation to the presentation, our dishes will exude the traditions of Japan and I am confident that the locals will notice.”
The restaurant’s interior creates a relaxing ambiance enhanced by attentive staff, while its menu contains seafood options including prawn tempura, duck and king crab salads, and sashimi salmon.
As well as lamb cuttles, there is a range of desserts such as banoffee, and five types of petit fours, and diners can sample drinks such as a Pink Lady and You’re So Beautiful, or speciality coffees.
For updates and more information, go to Instagram at @misora_sa.
Where We Are Going Today: Raoul’s Restaurant at VIA Riyadh
- The artichoke vinaigrette with Raoul’s dressing is a classic, and the decadent seared foie gras is also worth trying
Raoul’s is an internationally-acclaimed restaurant that serves quintessentially French food. It is perhaps most famous for its New York outlet’s limited-edition burger au poivre, which the late, well-respected food writer Josh Ozersky once proclaimed “the best burger in America.” Raoul’s timeless bistro menu has now made it one of VIA Riyadh’s gems.
The restaurant is the perfect spot for special occasions with its lovely outdoor dining area, sophisticated ambience and VIA Riyadh’s colorful floral projections. Indoors, the décor is classic French-style bistro (although the prices are significantly higher than that image implies).
To kick off the meal, the ruby beetroot salad with sheep-milk feta, cucumber, and vinaigrette is a lovely way to tempt your taste buds, incorporating both sweet and savory flavors.
The artichoke vinaigrette with Raoul’s dressing is a classic, and the decadent seared foie gras is also worth trying. The latter is paired with a surette à la pomme that offsets its inherent slightly bitter edge and topped with pickled red onions that add a layer of complexity.
For seafood lovers, the shrimp remoulade with wild arugula and horseradish is filled with tangy flavor, and — for mains — we would recommend the roasted sea bass, served with artichoke confit and saffron beurre blanc sauce, adding new flavors to the delicious fresh bass, which is seared to give it a crisp exterior.
Of course, if you are visiting Raoul’s, then it’s worth sampling that famous burger au poivre. It’s perfectly juicy, well-seasoned, topped with Saint-André cheese, and lives up to its unofficial title, elevating a fast-food classic.
Another of the restaurant’s top dishes is the steak au poivre — a staple of French cuisine. The steak is marinated and cooked to perfection, justifying its high price. It pairs surprisingly well with the tang of Kir Raoul’s — a sparkling non-alcoholic wine with homemade cherry essence.
When it comes to beverages, the Pink Promise is a great choice for a unique flavorful drink. It is made with hibiscus brewed tea, soursop juice, rose, cardamom, and fresh lime.
The staff are extremely hospitable, welcoming, and happy to discuss menu items or substitutions. Raoul’s is open daily from 1pm to 12:30 p.m. and from 2pm to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays, serving luxurious brunches — including French- and Arabic-inspired dishes such as shakshouka, lamb merguez socca crepes, and souffle pancakes — as well as lunches.
Raoul’s is yet another of VIA Riyadh’s new luxury dining experiences that is absolutely worth trying.
