Fashion’s bad boy Jean Paul Gaultier bids farewell to the catwalk

French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier stands next to his figure made by French sculptor Eric Saint Chaffray at the Grevin wax museum during the presentation of his waxwork in Paris. (Reuters)
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Updated 17 January 2020
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Fashion’s bad boy Jean Paul Gaultier bids farewell to the catwalk

  • The affable Frenchman brought an often elusive sense of fun to the world of fashion
  • His reputation as a provocateur brought him both fame and contempt from other fashion designers

PARIS: French designer Jean Paul Gaultier, known for dressing stars like Madonna and who cultivated an irreverent image as the industry’s “bad boy,” said on Friday that a fashion show in Paris next week would be his last.
Gaultier, 67, did not detail what would happen to his namesake brand, owned by private Spanish fashion and fragrance group Puig, only saying in a brief statement that it would continue to exist.
“I will be celebrating my 50th anniversary in fashion with a major Haute Couture fashion show,” Gaultier said in short statement.
“Be reassured that Gaultier Paris will go on, with a new project which I am the instigator, and that will be revealed to you very soon,” he said.
His fashion firm could not be reached for further comment on whether Gaultier would be appointing a successor as creative chief, or what his plans were.
The affable Frenchman, who will be celebrating his 50-year-career in the industry with his swansong runway show next week, brought an often elusive sense of fun to the world of fashion.
Some of his tongue-in-cheek collections in recent years included one themed around cigarettes, which he presented as a dig at overly moralistic attitudes.
Gaultier, who has also designed costumes for films and co-presented cult television show Eurotrash, has long been known for pushing boundaries in fashion, blurring the lines between men’s and women’s clothing.
One of the few household names in high fashion, Gaultier emerged as one of the leading young talents in French fashion during the early 1980s, shaking up the establishment with wild designs drawn from street culture, punk and the club scene.
His reputation as a provocateur brought him both fame and contempt from other fashion designers. He is best known for the sailor-style, white and blue striped tops that Gaultier often wears himself.
In recent years he had dropped more regular collections, focusing on producing one-of-a-kind ranges presented during Haute Couture fashion weeks in Paris.
His brand still produces perfumes.
Gaultier made his first steps in the industry as an apprentice of French designer Pierre Cardin in the 1970s, going on to present his first individual collection in 1976.
He later also worked as a designer for Hermes, which used to own a large stake in his label before selling it to Puig in 2011.


Simi and Haze Khadra discuss the functional vision of their beauty brand and its Middle East launch

Updated 1 min 33 sec ago
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Simi and Haze Khadra discuss the functional vision of their beauty brand and its Middle East launch

DUBAI: US-Palestinian beauty entrepreneurs Simi and Haze Khadra this week went on tour in the Middle East to launch their brand, SimiHaze Beauty, in the region. Their travels included stops in Saudi Arabia and the UAE.

While in the region, the sister duo — raised by Palestinian parents between Riyadh, London and Dubai —  shared insights about their brand with Arab News.

The 31-year-old identical twins, who are also DJs, said that they initially launched the brand out of “pure functionality,” creating products they wanted and needed in their own makeup routines. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Simi & Haze (@simihaze)

Every product they develop undergoes the same rigorous process of ensuring functionality, they said. 

“We are constantly thinking of new ideas and ways to make makeup easy and fun to apply,” Simi told Arab News. 

The pair launched their US-born cosmetics brand in 2021 with a range of stick-on makeup designs that can be placed on the face for a bold beauty look achievable within seconds. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Simi & Haze (@simihaze)

The sticker book features an array of edgy designs inspired by their favorite DJ looks from the past, such as chrome wings, neon negative space eyeliner and holographic cat-eyes. 

SimiHaze Beauty then expanded to include a range of products, such as lipsticks, bronzing powders, and a lifting mascara. 

Simi and Haze believe they were “actually late bloomers to the beauty world.” 

“We only started becoming interested in it when we were around 18,” Haze said. “We started SHB from just a single product we wanted but couldn’t find in the market, which is our Velvet Blur lipstick.

“We loved a matte lip for every day at the time but couldn’t find one that wasn’t drying, so we created it.” 

The twins developed an interest in eye makeup when they began DJ-ing.

“We weren’t the best at applying eyeliner, so again we just created our perfect solution which became the eye stickers,” Haze said.

To the sisters, launching the brand in the Middle East “felt so surreal.”

“The market has been such a huge goal of ours since we started because we grew up here,” Simi said. “We’re so happy that our products are finally accessible to our amazing followers here, because they have been such huge supporters since the beginning.

“Now people are finally able to really see and touch and feel the products, which is so important to us because you will never get the experience and vision of SHB unless you actually hold the product and feel the texture, curves, and ergonomics of it. The online experience doesn’t do it any justice.” 

The sisters said that they personally oversee the development of every product. They visit their lab in Italy for a few days at least twice a year to test and create new formulas.

“It takes a while and a lot of back and forth because after we create something it gets tested on our whole family from my grandma to my mom to my little sister and also all my friends with different skin tones,” Simi said.

“My friends are used to me calling them and saying: ‘Hi can I come over and try on some blush colors on you?’ So by the end of it we know what formulas and shades work best on the widest range of people.”

While visiting the Middle East, the sisters observed a prevailing trend in the region: skincare.

“I’ve seen so much good skin here and I can tell people really care about skincare here,” Haze said.

“We’ve also been increasingly obsessed with it. Our products are all infused with skin-loving ingredients, because we’re personally super-paranoid about anything that’s clogging or could cause irritation.”


Loli Bahia, Arab models walk Chanel cruise show in France

Updated 04 May 2024
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Loli Bahia, Arab models walk Chanel cruise show in France

DUBAI: French Algerian model Loli Bahia, British Moroccan Nora Attal, and part-Saudi Amira Al-Zuhair took to the runway at the Chanel Cruise 2024/2025 show in Marseille, France.

Bahia donned a green ensemble, composed of a knee-length pencil skirt paired with a matching top, layered over a white shirt boasting a hoodie collar.

Attal graced the runway in a white summery dress adorned with delicate sheer geometric prints, complemented by white slippers.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial)

Her look also featured beach-inspired layered necklaces, a thin chain belt and chunky bracelets adorned with hat, ship anchors and Chanel logo pendants.

Meanwhile, Al-Zuhair sported a vibrant yellow ensemble featuring hot shorts paired with a button-down top and a coordinating cardigan.

She also wore a beige hat, a gold choker embellished with blue detailing, chunky earrings and a chain belt adorned with pendants.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial)

From intricate embroideries to dazzling sequined jackets and swimwear, Creative Director Virginie Viard’s latest collection showcased ensembles inspired by an underwater reverie.

The outfits included knee-length Bermuda shorts, high-waisted shorts, loose trapeze dresses, and large outerwear. Viard also demonstrated the power of layering, using shirt collars, French cuffs and jackets in unexpected ways throughout the collection.

Earlier this week, Chanel shared a series of images, captured by British photographer Jamie Hawkesworth, on Instagram featuring Bahia. The pictures, drawing inspiration from the seaside and scuba diving, provided an initial preview of Viard’s collection.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial)

Bahia showcased multiple ensembles from the collection in the photographs. In the first shot, she dazzled in a glitzy black sequined mini pencil skirt and blazer. Another image captured her wearing the green ensemble seen on the runway, with the hoodie of the white shirt covering her head.

Additionally, she was photographed donning a white one-piece swimsuit adorned with a black bow around the chest.

The photo series also featured Bahia in a variety of other outfits, including a vibrant white dress with colorful square-like designs, tailored shorts paired with a blazer, as well as a striped set featuring a full-length skirt and matching top.


Saudi Arabia announces Red Sea Fashion Week

Updated 02 May 2024
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Saudi Arabia announces Red Sea Fashion Week

DUBAI: The Kingdom is all set to host the inaugural Red Sea Fashion Week. Set against the waters of Ummahat Island, the glitzy event is scheduled to take place from May 16-18 at The St. Regis Red Sea Resort.

Red Sea Fashion Week, which is organized by the Saudi Fashion Commission, will showcase local and international designers. It aims to celebrate the fusion of traditional Saudi aesthetics with cutting-edge contemporary design.

Among the highlights will be the participation of Saudi 100 Brands, an initiative spearheaded by the Fashion Commission to support and promote emerging local talent.

Saudi Arabia played host to its first fashion week in 2023, in Riyadh. The event took place in the King Abdullah Financial District from Oct. 20-23 and set the stage for a new fashion capital in the Middle East.
 


Bella Hadid launches Orebella fragrances

Updated 04 May 2024
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Bella Hadid launches Orebella fragrances

DUBAI: American fashion model Bella Hadid has launched a range of fragrances under her beauty brand, Orebella.

The entrepreneur, of Dutch and Palestinian descent, posted pictures of herself alongside the products — Salted Muse, Blooming Fire and Window2Soul — on Instagram.

The fragrances are available in 10, 50 and 100 mL bottles.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Orebella (@orebella)

Hadid described them as “hydrating, alcohol-free and enriched with essential oils.”

According to reports, the Salted Muse fragrance has top notes of sea salt, pink pepper and carbon dioxide extract, heart notes of olive tree accord, fig and lavender, and base notes of cedarwood, sandalwood and amber.

Blooming Fire has bergamot, cedarwood, clove leaf and cardamom, followed by Tahitian monoi and jasmine and finishes with patchouli.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Orebella (@orebella)

Window2Soul has a blend of lemon, geranium and mint in its top notes, transitions to jasmine and damask rose and ends with a base of tonka bean.

“For me, fragrance has always been at the center of my life, helping me feel in charge of who I am and my surroundings,” Hadid said on her website.

“From my home to nostalgic memories, to my own energy and connection with others, scent has been an outlet for me. It made me feel safe in my own world.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid)

“Through my healing journey, I found that I was extremely sensitive to the alcohol in traditional perfumes, both physically and mentally, it became something that was more overwhelming than calming to me.

“That is the main reason I wanted to find an alternative, so essential oils became an artistic and experimental process for me.”

Hadid said she started growing lavender on her farm and learned about her family’s tradition of making scents.

“I realized I might have a calling in this. I found healing, joy and love within nature’s scents.

“This is why I am so proud of Orebella. It was truly a dream and a passion that through the universe and authentic dedication was able to become this brand.”


Riyadh-based soap-maker Mayssam Tamim’s compelling chemistry of Saudi fragrances and flavors

Updated 03 May 2024
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Riyadh-based soap-maker Mayssam Tamim’s compelling chemistry of Saudi fragrances and flavors

  • Businesswoman uses locally-sourced ingredients, no chemicals
  • Olive oil, camel milk, honey, dates, Zamzam water key materials

RIYADH: Mayssam Tamim has had a passion for handmade soaps from a young age, and as an adult would search the globe for such products.

She discovered various products in several cities including Tripoli’s eco-friendly creations at Khan Al-Saboun and Provence’s boutique lavender offerings.

In 2018, Tamim decided to set up her own company, the Riyadh-based Mayassem, that produces luxury handmade soaps from Saudi Arabia-sourced natural ingredients.  (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

In 2018, she decided to set up her own company, the Riyadh-based Mayassem, that produces luxury handmade soaps from Saudi Arabia-sourced natural ingredients.

She told Arab News: “My hope is these soaps, at least a few of the ones that become traditional, are going to help establish something in Saudi Arabia that is considered pure to the region. It doesn’t have to be just my brand of soap, but it can be an industry that is localized.

“We’re doing everything new in Saudi Arabia. Why not this?”

Mayassem products have no harmful chemicals and are handcrafted at her home atelier using sustainable, organic ingredients to ensure that they are gentle on the skin. (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

Her products have no harmful chemicals and are handcrafted at her home atelier using sustainable, organic ingredients to ensure that they are gentle on the skin. The materials are locally sourced including extra-virgin olive oil from Al-Jouf, camel milk from Janadriyah, honey from Baha, and dates from Qassim.

She considers the soaps mini canvases, each splashed with a unique blend of non-toxic coloring inspired by their ingredients. The “Bliss” bar for example, made with Zamzam water and lavender fragrance, is crafted to resemble the Kaaba. The “Tamr” bar reflects the palette of the Saudi Arabia landscape as it features oud, saffron and turmeric fragrance, date paste, and camel milk.

“I know it’s a soap and not a painting but sometimes it is a feeling in me. I was very sad at the loss of a cousin, Rana, which in Arabic means song. So for one of my soaps, I decided to go with blue colors and called it ‘Celestial Melody.’ Sometimes it’s just things that simple,” the artisan said. 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Mayassem (@mayassem_suds)

 

The soaps come in floral, fruity, woody, citrus, or unscented options. While their main categories are classic, seasonal and signature, she also crafts limited-edition soaps, including an 18-box drop featuring bars encrusted with crystals such as lapis lazuli and black onyx. The brand also offers hand-poured candles made with natural soy, coconut and beeswax, as well as hand cream.

“People can buy soap 10 times cheaper at the supermarket. If I’m not offering them something that adds to the moisturization, that is organic, that does not harm them, and remains beautiful as long as they’re using it, I might as well not start at all,” she said.

Mayassem soaps come in floral, fruity, woody, citrus, or unscented options. (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

With her background in biology, the chemistry of soap-making came naturally to her. She began experimenting, with aesthetics and organic products in mind, over a couple of years until she began testing her final product on family and friends.

After retiring from the UN Development Program, Mayassem began investing her time in her business. Her products have been featured in shops at Jeddah’s Islamic Arts Biennale and Diriyah’s Contemporary Arts Biennale, various homegrown market locations, and pop-up stores.

“I think I’m living the best years of my life because I’m thoroughly working on something that I’m enjoying tremendously. Not to say that I did not enjoy my career. I was very happy with the work I did, but it was time to start a new chapter in my life,” she said.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Mayassem (@mayassem_suds)

 

While artisans have been embedded in local culture for ages, the brand aims to call attention to their value by keeping the business hand-crafted and artisanal in line with its ethos. “I don’t want it to become a job. I want it to stay a passion,” she said. “Artisans, whether they’re making soap, embroidery, or painting, bring out the value in a country. And we have different regions, so it also brings out the identity of a country.”