Gaultier goes fur-free as Saab channels Asian couture

Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab took part in Paris Couture Week on Wednesday. (AFP)
Updated 04 July 2019
Follow

Gaultier goes fur-free as Saab channels Asian couture

PARIS: Fake fur and authentic celebrities got all the attention at Jean Paul Gaultier's fall-winter collection, while Elie's Saab couture reached creative heights by channeling Chinese mysticism during the final day of fall-winter 2019 couture displays.

Amid mysterious clouds of Persian blue mist, Elie Saab fashioned up a standout couture collection Wednesday using the symbolism of China.

The Lebanese designer reimagined traditional Chinese drawings through embroideries with sequins, paillettes and sparkle that depicted fauna and flora; elements, the house said, that represent powerful protective spirits in Eastern legend.




(AFP)

"Nature, through mystical creatures and divine characters, sparked the curiosity of the designer, inspiring him to translate them into his very own art," it added.

Long diaphanous tulle, velvet and chiffon trains brought a magical romance to Saab's bread-and-butter silhouette of sexy, cinched waist gowns. Models with decorated tiaras walked to Asian traditional music.

There was some sophisticated and thoughtful fashion designs amid the show production — for instance, the famed Chinese traditional dress, the Cheongsam, was reimagined in a light tuxedo-style with a provocatively open bust.




(AFP)

SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION

The fashion industry can be a polluting one, as it puts a myriad of people on airplanes across the world for fashion seasons that promote clothes to be discarded as soon as they become passe.

But there are some moments of ecological reflection.

One initiative at Elie Saab had front row editors impressed.

This season, there were no program notes on the seats, ones which often comprise wads of thick, color-printed photos and detailed texts, and often end up in the trash as soon as the critics have finished their reviews.

In their place Wednesday was a giant — and mysterious — barcode on each invitation.

It provoked bemusement from invitees. Each guest was instructed by Saab's staff to hover their phone camera over the barcode, and then an option automatically appeared to load up the notes electronically to a web browser, saving plenty of trees in the process.


Mini op-ed: Coffee, fasting and finding your rhythm this Ramadan

Updated 17 February 2026
Follow

Mini op-ed: Coffee, fasting and finding your rhythm this Ramadan

DUBAI: Ramadan is a month of reflection, balance and listening more closely to our bodies. It is also a time when everyday rituals, including coffee, naturally shift. Rather than giving it up completely, many people simply change how, when and what they drink. And that is where a little understanding can go a long way.

There is no single “right” way to enjoy coffee during Ramadan. Taste preferences, caffeine sensitivity, work schedules and sleep patterns are deeply personal. The key is finding what supports you during the fast.

Suhoor, the pre-dawn meal before fasting begins, is often where people think carefully about caffeine. Some find a small coffee helps them feel alert through the morning. Others prefer to avoid it so they can return to sleep more easily after the meal. How you metabolize caffeine plays a big role here, some people feel energized for hours, while others crash quickly or feel jittery.

Choosing a lower-caffeine option can help. Coffees made from 100 percent Arabica beans naturally contain less caffeine than Robusta, while still offering plenty of flavor and aroma.

Iftar, traditionally broken with water and dates, is usually followed by a light meal or soup. Coffee often comes later, once the body has rehydrated and blood sugar levels have stabilized. Enjoyed mindfully, it can be part of a beautiful evening ritual rather than a stimulant.

There is no single “right” way to enjoy coffee during Ramadan. Taste preferences, caffeine sensitivity, work schedules and sleep patterns are deeply personal. (Shutterstock) 

One of the most important things to remember during Ramadan is hydration. Coffee should never replace water, especially when fasting hours are long. Drinking enough water between iftar and suhoor helps reduce fatigue and headaches far more effectively than extra caffeine.

Added sugar in coffee can also cause blood sugar spikes, followed by dips in energy. If you enjoy sweetness, try reducing it slightly or pairing coffee with food to soften the impact.

If you are worried about caffeine withdrawal during Ramadan, decaffeinated coffee can be a very helpful bridge. High-quality decaf, such as coffee processed using the Swiss water method (which avoids chemical solvents), retains flavor while removing most of the caffeine.

Ramadan is not about restriction for restriction’s sake. It is about awareness, intention and care, including care for your own body. Coffee can absolutely remain part of that journey, as long as it’s enjoyed thoughtfully.

Whether you choose to drink less, switch origins, reduce caffeine or simply slow down and savor it more, the best coffee choice this Ramadan is the one that supports your rhythm, your rest and your well-being.

Here are a few RAW coffees that feel gentle, balanced and comforting during Ramadan:

RITUAL Blend
Created at the request of many customers from the Levant, this is our only blend that combines Arabica with a small amount of Robusta. The result is a bold, full body with very low acidity. Smooth and grounding, it works beautifully as espresso, Moka pot or Turkish coffee, and pairs well with milk.

Brazil — Serra Dos Ciganos (Single Origin)
A beautifully approachable coffee with tasting notes of roasted hazelnuts, nougat, baker’s chocolate and pear. Comforting and elegant, especially when brewed.

Guatemala — Pampojila Natural
Often chosen as a “breakfast coffee”, this is gently sweet with notes of brown sugar, nuts and orange, offering a medium body and soft fruit character.

Mexico — Mazateca
Another favourite for earlier in the day, with flavors of orange, malted barley and cacao, balanced, warm and easy to drink.

Kim Thompson is the founder and director of Culture & Brand at RAW Coffee Co.