For Arab women, buying iridescent jewelry inspired by Arabic letters is a matter of pride. What is interesting, however, is that it is no longer an accessories’ fashion statement confined to the Middle East, with the rest of the world waking up to this phenomenon and fashion-conscious women wanting to give it a try. They are showing increasing interest in finding out where they can acquire these precious and stylish items from.
That being said, it is an absolute manifestation of the beautiful Islamic heritage that the world salutes and admires enormously.
It’s no wonder that this tradition known as “calligraphy” is being presented in a whole new package, thanks to a local jewel aficionado whose elegantly bejeweled designs are making waves. After all, they are very tempting in style.
And that prominent someone is none other than Lebanese-born jewelry designer Nadine Kanso.
In a way, she represents the finesse of the entire Arab culture with her artistic prowess. To get to the bottom of what she is doing and why, we met up with her to get the whole picture. And she was quite upbeat about it.
We begin with the magical spell that photography cast on her life. Kanso’s mind-blowing mastery over photography has been a major inspirational factor behind launching her jewelry label “Bil Arabi” (which means ‘literally’ in Arabic) in 2006.
“It was my first solo show of photography that paved the way for me. Besides, my graphic designing skills and passion for calligraphy helped me immensely in fulfilling my mission to create wondrous pieces of jewelry that people can wear and be proud of their identity at the same time,” she says.
This exhibition, she believes, sent a powerful message to the outside world. She explains: “Through the title “Meen Ana” (Who am I), I tried to diffuse the tension surrounding the issue of our identity and who we are post 9/11. I raised the bar further by emphasizing that we are peace-loving people and do not in any way support sadistic ideology.”
For an ordinary person, it won’t be too difficult to differentiate between jewelry and photography. But for her, these two mediums are inseparable and mean the same thing. In fact, what makes her special is this very aspect. “They are my means of expression and both have a signature that’s purely mine. It has that nostalgia combined with language plus, it touches on socio-political and design aspects,” she says.
Kanso’s love for this art form is perceptible in her lovely jewelry designs. “It’s absolutely beautiful and is an art form by itself. I just love typography and Arabic gives me a chance to keep making strides in that direction. One’s intuitive potential never gets rusty if it’s put into practice time and time again,” she says.
And giving shape to evergreen designs?
When it comes to deciding which alphabets the shape of jewels should be molded in, she has a very clear idea. “Bil Arabi is pretty much custom-made. So everyone can order their initial or name or initials of loved ones. However, I usually start with the letter Noon which is N since it’s my initial. This way I can try it and see how it fits and so on, and the best part is that I get to be the first one to wear it and keep it!.”
It’s an arduous process at the end of the day. “I start by putting whatever ideas come to my mind on paper first and then sketching them in my studio. And when I have the exact design in mind, I take it to the workshop where the metal-workers are waiting eagerly to see what I have got for them to work on every time. That’s when the cutting procedure comes into play,” she says.
“The next thing I do is I try it to see if it’s okay or if it needs certain changes.”
Asked how one’s jewelry collection helps reveal one’s true character, she replies: “Whatever one does, it reflects his or her character and their liking to certain designs, patterns and colors. When you see in a collection similarities or a point that sort of joins the pieces together, you automatically know what those individuals like or are looking for, or what type they really are — strong, bold, romantic or simple.”
She has a crystal clear perception of women wearing her rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets. “They are ambitious and confident for sure and love their language and culture,” Kanso says.
Even celebs can’t resist donning her ornaments. “When we took part in the F1 in Abu Dhabi at the VIP lounge as part of showcasing our brand, we encountered many celebs like Eva Simons, Kylie Minogue, Eve, Lupe Fiasco and many other wearing Bil Arabi,” she says, adding: “It was absolutely incredible.”
Her jewelry strikes a chord among users because of a modern makeover yet sticking to their vintage identity. “In fact, I took the Arabic calligraphy a few steps forward in terms of its use and design itself. Even then, there is more room to grow,” she says. “What will remain unchanged is the vintage look of letters which you can’t beat.”
When it came to sharing who her role models are in life, she had a definite answer to this. “I am always touched by simple people who have seen the world, but are still grounded. They have endured a lot and still have a certain faith and humility,” Kanso says.
Talking about women’s fashion sense in the Arab world, she says plainly: “They have always been fashion-savvy. We are free and we have choice. Some of us just need to act on it and have the courage to stand and fight for what’s rightfully ours.”
She follows her own heart in terms of fashion statement. “Be different and be yourself. While traveling, I love to sport my big rings, pendants and earrings,” she says. “It’s the best way to promote my bling! I get stopped everywhere and asked about them. So the bigger, the better, and it’s undoubtedly eye-catching.”

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