At first glance, the Atfaluna restaurant in Gaza City looks like any other — a space for locals to enjoy a simple meal. But there’s a difference: Nearly all its staff are deaf.
Inside, customers chat to each other and scan the menu, but when it comes to ordering, their requests are taken down by waiters who communicate in sign language, and their meals are all cooked by deaf chefs.
It’s a one-of-a-kind concept in Gaza and the brainchild of a local organization called Atfaluna — Arabic for ‘Our Children’ — which works to improve the lives of the territory’s deaf.
The project has the twin goals of raising awareness about the needs and capabilities of the deaf, while giving the community a way to earn a living in a place where unemployment stands at 45 percent.
Ahmed Dahman, expressing himself shyly through a sign language translator, described how working at the restaurant has changed his life.
“It gave me a sense of security regarding my future and self-dependency because job opportunities were virtually non-existent before this,” he said.
“We’ve seen a lot of support and cooperation from people,” he told AFP. “A lot of them expressed their interest in learning sign language.”
For Dahman and others employed at the restaurant, where sign language letters decorate the walls, Atfaluna is a rare opportunity for work.
Until a few months ago, education opportunities for the deaf in Gaza only ran to ninth grade, with no secondary or university level education available.
A new secondary school has just opened, and Atfaluna is working with universities to make courses available for the deaf, but most working-age members of the community find themselves with few marketable skills.
“There is a real shortage of jobs for deaf people in Gaza. Of course they are at a big disadvantage because of the educational shortages,” Dalia Abu Amr of the Atfaluna organization told AFP.
Diners enter through an elaborate arabesque doorway above which hangs the restaurant’s name written in white on a black background — in English, Arabic and sign language.
Inside, a hostess in a traditionally-embroidered Palestinian gown guides people to their table. Handicrafts made in Atfaluna’s job creation programmes are also available for sale.
The fare on offer ranges from from Middle Eastern staples like hummus and baba ghanouj to fried fish, chicken or curry dishes.
“We came here to see the place,” said Shahd Al-Iyla, a 21-year-old student dining with a friend. “It was nice, we would love to come here to offer moral support, so we will come again.”
Abu Amr said 12 of the restaurant’s 14 staff are deaf. The only exceptions are the chef and the accountant, who answers the phone to take reservations and delivery orders.
“The team of 12 deaf workers received culinary and hospitality training,” Abu Amr told AFP. The project hopes “to assimilate the deaf in Gaza into society and provide them with work opportunities.”
Around 1.5 percent of Gazans over the age of five have some form of hearing disability, according to Atfaluna, but the disability still carries a stigma.
“No one welcomes the idea of a deaf person working in Gaza,” said 35-year-old Niveen Al-Quqa, as she garnished a dish about to leave the kitchen.
She took art classes and sewing lessons in a bid to find work, but until the restaurant opened, she had had no success.
Now she is one of five women employed at Atfaluna — four in the kitchen and one working as a waitress.
“I am looking forward to improving my culinary skills so my colleagues and I can prove ourselves, despite our disability. I am very happy now,” she added with a smile.
The restaurant’s chef, 30-year-old Hassan Addabus, hovered nearby as his charges worked, giving them pointers on their technique in sign language.
“I have been doing this for 10 years and it was always about doing a job I love, but today it means much more than that,” he told AFP.
“It has a moral and human significance because of the support it offers to people with disabilities in our society who deserve all of our help.”
Amina Al-Omari, 22, also hard at work in the kitchen, said the job had given her a new sense of self.
“Society has no idea about our needs,” she explained.
“I felt subject to injustice and oppression because of this, but those feelings started to fade away after I started working here and becoming independent.
“We are capable of proving our skills and excellence. We might be deaf, but we have a lot of potential.”
Gaza restaurant gives deaf a chance to shine
Gaza restaurant gives deaf a chance to shine
Where We Are Going Today: Casa Noor
When Noora Ahmed Almubsher decided to start a home-based business, she went all in. In 2021, armed with a degree in business, she used her passion for food to fill in the gaps she found in the market. She wanted to create something innovative that reminded her of home, and thus named her entrepreneurial pursuit “Casa Noor.”
While the word “casa” translates to “home” in Spanish, a place which generates comfort, warmth and deliciousness, her products and “noor” or “light” in Arabic, are very Saudi-centric.
Based in the historic Tarout Island in Qatif in the Eastern Province, she handpicks ingredients from local farms while sprinkling in what she calls the “Noora” touch.
Her purple-hued Saudi-made sauerkraut will perk up any boring dish, offering a perky pickled pick-me-up that is both healthy for your gut and fun for your taste buds. I added it to the middle of a grilled cheese sandwich, the oozing melted sharp cheddar merged well with the sauerkraut bits that offered a fresh, tangy bite to the crunchy toast.
We also tried her pickled loumi lemons in a jar, an essential staple in Qatif. Those lemon-lime bits of citrus goodness have a distinctive taste as it requires very high temperatures and humidity to generate that signature Sharqiya flavor. They are perfect for chicken marinates, to scoop up into rice, or drizzle into tart desserts.
For the Noora Tea blend, which was curated specifically to celebrate Founding Day, Almubsher brought in ingredients from different parts of the Kingdom and combined them into one mix. She joked that it was extra personal since it shares her first name, but it is also a loving tribute to the late Princess Nourah bint Abdulrahman, whose name is proudly displayed at the front of the world’s largest woman-only university in Riyadh.
“Our goal is to demonstrate that Saudi Arabia has the capacity to produce world-class products that reflect our rich agricultural heritage,” she told Arab News. “These products are not only healthy and free from preservatives and hydrogenated oils, but they also taste good.”
“We want to convey to the world — and to our own community — that we have the resources and expertise to offer clean, sustainable, and locally-sourced food options that are accessible to everyone. This aligns perfectly with the broader objectives of Vision 2030, which aims to diversify the economy and promote local industries,” she said.
For more details and to order, visit her Instagram @casa.noor.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Modawar’ cafeteria in Jeddah
- Modawar keeps things exciting by occasionally introducing new fillings and shapes, such as the sambusa and musakhan filling inspired by the traditional Palestinian dish
If you are in Jeddah and craving a convenient yet scrumptious breakfast, look no further than Modawar. The recently opened grab-and-go breakfast spot has come all the way from Alkhobar and promises a variety of options.
Modawar specializes in baked pastries and is modeled after a classic cafeteria. The Saudi brand lives up to its name, serving customers small circular pies loaded with a variety of contents inspired by traditional breakfast dishes.
The brand has something for everyone’s taste, including falafel with tahini, potatoes and eggplant, cheese and egg, and feta cheese with a special blend. The shakshuka pie, mixed cheese pie and chicken pie are worth trying.
But what sets the eatery apart are the diverse options for group orders. The liver and egg box, featuring eight pieces each of the two flavors, is great for sharing.
I chose a custom box of 12 pies with a combination of liver, shakshuka and egg pies. Each was bursting with flavor and the cheese melted perfectly. To top it off, every box comes with a selection of sauces, including tahini and hot sauce, along with a cup of hot karak for the perfect breakfast kick during the weekend.
Modawar keeps things exciting by occasionally introducing new fillings and shapes, such as the sambusa and musakhan filling inspired by the traditional Palestinian dish.
The outlet also offers a selection of fresh juices, including watermelon and orange, as well as iced and hot red tea.
For more information and updates, visit Instagram @modawar.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: Armin restaurant in Riyadh
- Armenian cuisine is a blend of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Eastern European influences
RIYADH: Riyadh’s popular Armenian restaurant, Armin, takes visitors on a journey of authentic flavors with its heartwarming, aromatic and herby dishes.
Armenian cuisine is a blend of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Eastern European influences with ingredients such as rice, lamb and sumac.
Armin hits the taste nail on the head with a selection of Middle Eastern dishes featuring chicken and lamb kebabs, tabouleh, fattoush, vine leaves, and a popular eggplant dip, muttabal.
The menu provides guests with options aplenty, with vegetarian and omnivorous diners catered for, making it an ideal spot for dining out.
Upon arrival, guests are spoiled with freshly baked pita bread, perfect to plunge into their dipping of choice.
The best appetizer on the menu is the hummus with meat and topped off with crispy pine nuts, making a perfect combination of nutty flavors.
A must-have side dish is the spicy potato, cooked to perfection with a kick of spice and a touch of garlic and coriander.
The star main course is the shish barak, a traditional Armenian dish consisting of dumplings made with a thin dough wrapper and filled with flavorful beef or lamb with onions and a mix of spices.
Shish barak is boiled, unlike Chinese or Japanese dumplings, which are usually pan fried or steamed.
The only downside of the visit is cost — Armin’s prices are on the high side. But given its customer service and delicious food, it is a price worth paying. Although many dishes on Armin’s menu can be found in Middle Eastern restaurants for a fraction of the price, the quality of the ingredients here is unmatched.
Recipes for Success: The St. Regis Red Sea Executive Sous Chef Skotarenko Artem on educating guests and experimentation
JEDDAH: The newly-opened The St. Regis Red Sea is home to several restaurants, including Middle Eastern restaurant Nesma, Japanese establishment Gishiki 45, and Tilina — a “floating” restaurant that serves a degustation menu. The resort’s executive sous chef, Skotarenko Artem, from Russia, oversees a team of 75.
“Discipline is one of the most important things in the kitchen. I can say it’s one of the pillars. But relationships in the kitchen should be based on respect. If you shout at your employees, you can make people scared, but they will never respect you for it,” Artem tells Arab News. “Shouting is a thing of the past in the kitchen.”
Tilina, he says, is a “unique concept for Saudi Arabia.”
“The degustation menu takes two to three hours. Not everyone can sit for this time and wait for the dishes. So, we try to educate the guests,” he explains.
When you started out what was the most common mistake you made?
I guess trying to repeat the dishes of celebrity chefs that I found online, from other parts of the world. And I was really upset with the results because they were below my expectations. That was because of products and seasonality, because every country has different produce and you can’t expect to get the same results in another country.
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
Don’t be afraid to experiment. If you find a nice recipe and you want to follow it, most likely you won’t have all the ingredients available at home. So use your imagination and, like this, you can achieve a great result.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Doesn’t matter where you’re cooking — it can be a restaurant or at home — love is the most important.
What’s the most common mistake that you find in other restaurants?
I’m actually not very picky when I go out. But, for me, the most common issue is seasoning. It’s very easy to spoil a dish if you have poor seasoning; it becomes flat and, actually, it is dead.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
When I go out, I’m always looking for something unusual and interesting that I’m not familiar with. It helps to keep your mind open.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I don’t actually cook at home very often. But I’ll always have fresh bread in and a piece of good quality cheese. Along with them, I have all these different kinds of preserves and pickled vegetables. So, if I have to do something quick at home, I’d make a nice Cuban-style sandwich.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
Actually, there’s a long list. But what really annoys me is when guests leave the table without valid excuses when the dishes are ready to serve. Because then you need to remake the dish. It’s a disservice to all the other guests in the restaurant.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Where I’m from, it tends to get very cold. So, I love to make rich soups of all kinds. But they tend to take a lot of time and patience.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Actually, I’m really flexible and adaptable. For me, everything is possible if you’re focused and committed to it.
RECIPE
Chef Skotarenko’s cured mackerel, salted laminaria, and dill kefir sauce
INGREDIENTS
For the brine: 1L water; 80g sea salt; 30g brown sugar; 1 garlic clove; 10g dill; 30g sunflower oil (or your preferred flavor of oil); 2g black pepper; 2g bay leaves
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Place a whole mackerel (300-400g) in the brine and leave overnight.
2. Place 500g fresh laminaria in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Strain the water and repeat the process three times.
3. Wash the laminaria in cold water, sprinkle with 5g sea salt, and refrigerate overnight.
4. Slice 500g fresh cucumber. Mix with 50g olive oil, a pinch of salt, and 20g apple cider vinegar. Refrigerate overnight.
5. Mix 500g kefir (or laban if you prefer) with 30g lemon juice, 5g finely chopped garlic, 5g salt, and 2g white pepper.
6. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add 500g dill. Remove after 10 seconds and place in ice-cold water. Blend the dill with 500g olive oil until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve.
7. Plate all the ingredients separately and serve.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Madeo Ristorante’ - an Italian cuisine in Jeddah & Riyadh
West Hollywood’s Madeo Ristorante opened two new branches in Jeddah and Riyadh last summer, and looks determined to take it up a notch this season.
Madeo in Riyadh not only promises to relax you with breezy and smooth jazz music every Tuesday night but also offers a delectable set menu.
Begin your meal with the crispy calamari affogati paired with tomato sauce for delicious seaside flavors, or the carpaccio di manzo. Although often difficult to nail the texture, Madeo executed the carpaccio perfectly, pairing the raw finely sliced filet mignon with a bright palette of rucola, parmigiano and artichoke.
Between starters and mains, we opted for the bianca la tartuf pizza, which packed a memorable punch as it combined a medley of gorgonzola, mascarpone, mozzarella, goat’s cheese and fresh black truffle.
The cotoletta Milanese was a delectable crispy pan-fried breaded veal chop, a truly authentic experience, while the ravioli ricotta e spinaci is a hearty plate, served in a butter and sage sauce with parmigiano reggiano, promising to satisfy any pasta craving.
Seal the meal with their classic dessert offerings, perhaps with a luscious tiramisu with chocolate powder or a creamy millefoglie with layers of puff pastry, custard cream and whipped cream.
Along with the nostalgic ambience and live music, we enjoyed the light and bright summer flavors. The Jeddah branch also invites diners to indulge in an Italian feast with a special set menu at Madeo at the Yacht Club at SR 175-200 ($47-$53) per person well into August.
Launched at the beginning of May, Cool Inc.’s Culinary Festival has brought some curated fine dining experiences to restaurants in Riyadh and Jeddah. From the sultry jazz evenings or 1970s disco, to sunny set menus, the experiences promise to delight as the long summer days approach.
The experiences and deals are available at multiple spots, including at VIA Riyadh and Jeddah Yacht Club through online pre-bookings.
