UNLESS it’s a costume party, or an expatriate that’s gone native, one isn’t likely to see a non-Saudi dressed in the traditional dish-dash, head scarf (shumaq) and black headband (iqal). But one Saudi fashion accessory has gained some popularity abroad: the Saudi-style sandal, known as the madas sharqi.

Madas sharqi means roughly “sandal from the east” because this distinct footwear originated in the eastcentral region of Saudi Arabia. They differ from regular sandals with a ring of leather that wraps around the large toe and the leather shield that covers the outer side of the foot. This shield is often adorned with specific embroidered patterns that vary by region.

Even international designers have gotten into the business that was once the sole domain of humble cobblers working in the alleyway shops of Old Arabia. Saudi sandals made in Italy from fine leather can cost upward of SR3,000. Fahmi Al-Ashiq, owner of a specialized sandal shop in downtown Jeddah, displays in his store a variety of modern shapes to attract younger customers, including sandals depicting labels like Gucci and Versace. But the modern sandals in many ways can rob the authenticity of the more traditional styles that are distinctly “Saudi”.

The more everyday, pedestrian sandals are made from imported leather — often from Pakistan — and made by foreign workers in shoe factories. Prices range from SR40 to SR500 for typical Saudi sandals, depending on the quality of the materials and the intricacy of the embroidery or bric-a-brac.

The sandal is traditionally footwear for men, but in modern times a more feminine madas sharqi is produced with sequins, a narrower heel and bright colors.

Muhsin Al-Radi, Saudi owner of traditional Saudi dresses in Jeddah’s downtown area, says the feminized version of these sandals was popular for a while. The women’s version of these sandals are often covered in colorful beadwork. Al-Radi says the demand for the women’s version of these sandals has died down, and he no longer stocks them.

Typically made from camel or cow leather, the Saudi sandal evolved throughout the centuries in the Arabian Peninsula. Today craftsmen in the Kingdom’s major cities still make the more authentic Saudi sandals by hand. It is still possible to find cobblers that have inherited their trade form their forefathers, just like back in the day.

Sandals made in Qassim, one of the most rugged and traditional regions of the Kingdom north of Riyadh, are considered the best; and their reputation is reflected in their costs.

These so-called Zubairi sandals can cost as much as the Italian imports. hese particular sandals are named after the Zubara tribe, who long ago migrated to what is now Iraq. The name remained behind, however, and the sandals are often custom made by local craftsmen for wealthier customers willing to pay the price for distinct, hand-tailored footwear made from the finest camel leather.

Other well-known sandal brands are also named after the tribes that produce them, including Al-Dubai’i, Al-Atrash and Al-Rassi.

Muhsin Al-Radi, Saudi owner of traditional Saudi dresses in Jeddah’s downtown area, said that the demand for Saudi sandals is constant. The peak season is, of course, the end of Ramadan, when it is customary for people to buy new clothing to ring in the Eid holiday.

Masoud Ahmad, a Yemeni sandal salesman at Jeddah’s historic center points out that craftsmen in Makkah originated their own distinct sandal, called “madas abou antal”, or “Antenna Sandal”, referring to a small leather post that goes between the first and second toes (instead of the leather toe ring in the more common sandal).

The post sticks up unusually high, like a small antenna poking up from between the toes.

The antenna sandal, which is not in great demand, is also handmade from camel leather and the sole is covered with layers of soft leather to provide a comfortable padding.

Fahmi Al-Ashiq, owner of a specialized sandal shop in downtown Jeddah, points to lucrative aspects of the footwear: the demand by visitors for something that is distinct and traditional to remember their visit to the Kingdom.

“We always receive Western customers interested in buying authentic sandals, especially for gifts,” he said.