THERE seems to be a certain magic that captivates all who enter Cairo’s Khan El-Khalili souq. Whether you’re seeking gold or silver, a taste of Egyptian spices or dates or even souvenirs, the souq, which was originally built in 1382 as a caravanserai by Emir Djaharks El-Khalili, has maintained its reputation for selling goods that are indigenous to Egypt. The bustling alleys are home to some of the city’s best jewelry, clothes and food stalls, and are loved by both tourists and Egyptians alike. The area holds such significant historical importance for Egyptians that one of the alleyways was even the setting for Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz’s novel, “Midaq Alley.”
The market, which is one of Cairo’s most popular tourist destinations, is seen as one of the most interesting parts of the city, due to the fascinating commodities that can be found.
The renowned ahwas (coffee shops) that serve traditional Egyptian mint tea, Turkish coffee and shisha lure all with their strong, exotic scents. Tourists are often found inside, exhausted after a long day of haggling, yet still eagerly absorbing the culture and commotion found surrounding them. “I don’t want to buy tacky souvenirs that are made in China,” insists an English holidaymaker. “I want to take a part of real Cairo back with me, and the atmosphere is amazing... there’s never a dull moment. I feel I’m getting the real Egyptian experience here,” he said while drawing heavily on his traditional Egyptian shisha.
The souq’s jewelry, which is made in small adjacent workshops, shows signs of intricate craftsmanship, giving each piece its own unique appearance. These workshops, which are often concealed between narrow alleys or behind stalls, bustle with men constructing and creating everything from lanterns to necklaces, ensuring that shopkeepers constantly have genuine Egyptian goods for their customers. They also make the market self-sufficient, as shopkeepers don’t rely on outside suppliers for stock.
Strolling through the market, one soon notices a particularly remarkable item among the countless things for sale. The glimmering sequins and bold colors of belly-dancing garments, which are adorned with jingling hand sewn metal coins, are extremely popular with brides-to-be as they anticipate their wedding night. For those in the market for vibrant shades and exotic beading, these shimmering costumes are among the main attraction amid Egypt T-shirts, model pyramids and ornate wood boxes.
Not only are there glittering mesh and beaded garments, but also a large variety of men’s clothing as well. Amid tourists trinkets are stalls dedicated to jalabiya (traditional robes) trousers and shirts of many fabrics and cuts. If there is nothing to one’s liking hanging from the poles and layering the walls, custom-made clothing is available to satisfy individual fits and tastes.
Khan El-Khalili is not only the twisting alleys, heaps of commodities or swarms of people. The backbone of the market is its vendors, its characters and even its beggars. It is the old man calling out his goods or the young boys bragging of the lowest prices and best quality. The essence of this great market is the mastery of the language the vendors acquire, the day-to-day banter of the shopkeepers and throngs of customers who keep the market functioning. These hardworking Egyptians who are the base of Khan El-Khalili and make both a gathering place for locals and one of Egypt’s wonders for the numbers of tourists who pour into the country.
At any time of the year, the market is a splendid sight; however when the month of Ramadan commences, the charm and gaiety is heightened. As the month begins, the market’s stalls display Ramadan lanterns of every color. These short-lived adornments can only be found during one month of the year but they transform the streets with a cheery glow. Among the jewelry, clothes and food, pink, green and gold glass sparkles, heralding the beginning of the month, the already packed twists of the alleys turn into makeshift iftar tents as Khan El-Khalili graciously provides a festive end to the day of fasting. As the sun sets, Muslims gather to break their fast by sharing piles of steaming food.
Seasonal sweets, such as Konafa and Basbussa are in especially high demand from the souq, as Khan El-Khalili is one of the few places in Cairo where these delicacies are hand-made. Cairenes flock to the area in order to savor the unique taste of these traditional mouth-watering Egyptian treats. Since the month of Ramadan leads up to the year’s peak shopping moment — Eid Al-Fitr — Khan El-Khalili benefits from the shopping craze as people celebrate in their holiday finery. As Ramadan progresses, the rush for Eid apparel intensifies and the market is filled with a hectic bustle. The seasonal spirit can be seen in all the souq’s characters. The smiling shopkeepers watch over the young as they parade the street, swinging their lanterns, while enjoying the seasonal sweets. These children are not idly accompanying their parents to the market but playing a vital role in the livelihood and social makeup of this bazaar. Skipping through the crowds of shopkeepers and dodging motorcycles carrying bread is not a game to them, but instead they too are selling their merchandise. Whether it’s a packet of tissues or seasonal lanterns, they take part in the market’s sense of culture and community.
While the month is something children throughout the Muslim world look forward to with its sweets and festivities, for young Amr, Ramadan not only includes the customary celebrations, it entails better business and thus life becomes a little easier for the 9-year-old who is a key bread winner for his family. “I always enjoy Ramadan,” says Amr. “I sell fawanees, (Ramadan lanterns) however, of course there is only a demand for them during the holy month.”
To enjoy the market to its full potential there are a few key factors to keep in mind. While the bustling energy is part of the market’s charm, it is important to remember that the desert dust and Arabian heat, combined with Cairo’s notorious traffic congestions, can take its toll on shoppers during the day. Although business usually commences around 9 a.m., it is normally advisable to arrive in the late afternoon, once the heat diminishes and trade is truly thriving.
The twists and turns of the market can be somewhat daunting to a newcomer and thus, an Egyptian guide can prove essential for navigating and helping to haggle for a “non tourist” price. Since the market is located in old Cairo, arriving can sometimes be a bit of an adventure. As parking in the area is nearly impossible and not advisable, taxis are a more welcome means of transportation.
Khan El-Khalili is recognized as being one of the most remarkable souqs, not only in Egypt, but in the whole Middle East. Although it may not be the average shopaholics expectations, it is an ideal place for those who want to experience genuine Cairo.
