PESHAWAR: Holding a large iron paddle with both hands, Zohaib Hassan stirred hot milk in a large pot that sat over a burning stove at his shop in the northwestern Pakistani city of Peshawar.
This is the first step in preparing a ‘Doodh Jalebi Peyala,’ a hearty bowl of hot milk infused with jalebi (funnel cake), vermicelli, cream, eggs, dry fruits and olive oil — a traditional delight that has been enjoyed for generations in the old city.
While the popularity of the bowls has waned elsewhere in the city, Hassan, 34, continues to carry forward the five-decade legacy of his family at the ‘Chacha Ali Ahmad Milk Shop,’ named after his father.
“Our grandfather would do this work of milk bowls, his shop used to be at Asia Gate,” Hassan told Arab News, referring to one of the 16 gates of the ancient walled city of Peshawar.
Hassan’s father Ali Ahmed later moved the humble shop to Peshawar’s famed Qissa Khwani Bazaar, or Storyteller’s Market, where it has flourished and grown a loyal customer base.
“My father worked here [in Qissa Khwani Bazaar] for 50 years. I have been working here for the last 10 years now.”
Every day now, Hassan wakes up before sunrise to condense the milk by slowly boiling it for at least five hours at his shop.
“When the milk is ready, first of all we add egg to it, after the egg, we add vermicelli,” Hassan said, showing the making of a milk bowl.
“On vermicelli, we add honey, olive oil, and talbina, which is made from mixed dry fruits. On it, we add fresh cream and pour hot milk. Then, within five minutes, the warm bowl is ready.”
One bowl with these ingredients costs Rs360 ($1.28).
NOSTALGIA
Global studies indicate that the increased consumption of soft drinks has been associated with a decline in milk consumption, particularly in children and adolescents. Sugary soft drinks often replace milk and other dairy beverages in the diet, leading to reduced calcium and other nutrient intake.
The decline has happened in Peshawar also.
“Earlier, people used to drink this milk, Pepsi, 7up, and these things were introduced later,” Hassan lamented.
“People of the older times had organic food. They used to eat fresh cream, milk, vermicelli, and milk and jalebi for breakfast. Such shops were in the dozens. Now, only two shops [of milk] are left in the entire Peshawar.”
Nevertheless, customers from as far as the Saddar, Hayatabad and Gulbahar areas of Peshawar as well as from other cities come to try Hassan’s milk bowls.
“Since we grew up, we have come here for the past 30-35 years to drink milk, lassi,” Khwaja Tahir Mehmood, 61, who hails from Peshawar but is currently based in Islamabad, told Arab News.
“Whenever I come to Peshawar, we come to this shop to revive the memories of our youth and drink milk and lassi.”
Mustafa Awan, a 25-year-old resident of Peshawar who also works in Islamabad, said he always visits Hassan’s shop when he travels to his hometown.
“When I was a child, I would come here with my father, and at that time my father used to tell me, ‘Son, if you have this in your childhood, you will remain healthy all your life’,” Awan said.
“So, whenever I come here and feel down, I do get a bowl.”
