Farshi Shalwar: Centuries-old staple of South Asian fashion makes Eid comeback in Pakistan

The collage of images created on March 30, 2025, shows Pakistani models wearing farshi shalwar. (Sadaf Kanwal Fashion/Hussain Rehar)
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Updated 31 March 2025
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Farshi Shalwar: Centuries-old staple of South Asian fashion makes Eid comeback in Pakistan

  • Farshi shalwar is characterized by floor-length, flowing and wide, loose pants, creating a dramatic and graceful silhouette
  • Stylists say trend dates back to the 17th century and was popular among noblewomen and courtesans of the Mughal era

KARACHI: A centuries-old staple of South Asian closets, the farshi shalwar, is back in Pakistan and ruling fashion trends this Eid Al-Fitr. 

The word “farshi” comes from the Persian word “farsh,” meaning “floor,” and the farshi shalwar, particularly popular in Pakistan and northern India, is characterized by its floor-length, flowing and wide, loose pants, creating a dramatic and graceful silhouette. 

“Right now, it’s the hottest trend,” fashion stylist and director Tabesh Khoja, popularly known as Khoji, told Arab News, saying he first styled a farshi shalwar in 2023 for the fashion label of model and actress Sadaf Kanwal.

“I styled Sadaf Kanwal actually and after that I have seen every other designer doing a farshi shalwar version of their own,” Khoja said. 




The picture posted by Sadaf Kanwal Fashion on February 15, 2025, shows Pakistani model Sadaf Kanwal wearing farshi shalwar from her latest collection. (Sadaf Kanwal Fashion/Instagram)

No doubt, Kanwal seems to have played a key role in bringing the farshi shalwar back this Ramadan and Eid, with her label Sadaf Kanwal Fashion creating a number of outfits over the last two years featuring the baggy trousers. 

“Throughout the [last] year, I shot so many collections of so many designers and all of those designers at least used to have two farshi shalwars for sure in their collections,” Khoja said. “So it took us an entire year to make it a fashion trend.”

According to the stylist, the trend dated back to the 17th century and was popular among noble women in the Mughal era. Modeled after the flowing gowns worn by British noblewomen, the complete outfit consists of three basic parts: a kurta or a long shirt, dupatta or long stole, and the third and most important, the farshi shalwar or pajama, a flowing two-legged trouser held by drawstrings that falls straight to the ankles from where it starts flaring and flowing copiously onto the floor, trailing as one walks. 

In media, iconic movies such as Umrao Jaan (1981) and Shatranj Ke Khilari (1977) that depict Muslim culture of 19th-century Lucknow show noblewomen and royal courtesans wearing farshi shalwars. 

“They had a variety of silhouettes in terms of a kurta or a jacket on top, among other things. The outfit has been there, the silhouette has been there since the 17th century but how you make it relevant now is very important,” Khoja added.




The picture, posted on August 4, 2022, by the Instagram page " Purana Pakistan," shows Pakistani women wearing farshi shalwar in 1970s. (Hibah Najeeb via Purana Pakistan)

HOW TO STYLE A FARSHI SHALWAR?

According to Khoja, some of the popular ways to style the farshi shalwar include pairing it with a button down shirt and accessorizing it with different kinds of jewelry pieces and hairdos.

“You can dress it up or dress it down. Sadaf [Kanwal] uses big organza dupattas. You can do big shawls also like [actress] Mahira Khan wore [designer] Banto Kazmi’s when she got an award at the UK Parliament. So something of that sort also with a plain silhouette.”




The picture, posted on July 16, 2023, shows Pakistani models wearing farshi shalwar by designer Hussain Rehar. (Hussain Rehar)

Pakistani actress Tuba Anwar said celebrities had been wearing farshi shalwars since last year but the trend had “peaked” among the general public in recent months. For her, the fact that everyone would be wearing the baggy trousers this Eid reduced their appeal. 

“I was planning to wear farshi shalwar on this Eid and then when everybody started discussing it, I was like ‘No, this is not what I’m going to wear because I have to do something very different’.”

When she wore farshi shalwars at all, Anwar said she preferred them in solid colors.

“In terms of styling, I would like to wear it with solid colors, not a lot of embroidery going on, not a lot of things or abstract things going on in the clothes that I am going to wear,” she said.




Pakistani actor Tuba Anwar is seen wearing farshi shalwar. (Tuba Anwar)

The farshi shalwar craze is not limited to women alone. 

Actor and host Fahad Mustafa has donned the farshi shalwar look on his hit gaming show Jeeto Pakistan during Ramadan. Singer and songwriter Falak Shabbir has been seen in the outfit as well. 

“It’s certainly not limited to women. Fahad Mustafa was of course wearing it on Jeeto Pakistan. I am going to wear it on Eid,” Khoja said. “So, you will see a lot of people of different sorts, male and female, wearing it.”




Pakistani actor and host Fahad Mustafa r is seen wearing farshi shalwar. (Fahad Mustafa)

 


U2’s Bono calls for Israel to be ‘released’ from Netanyahu

Updated 23 May 2025
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U2’s Bono calls for Israel to be ‘released’ from Netanyahu

  • Singer tells country to shun ‘far-right fundamentalists that twist your sacred texts’
  • Calls for protection of aid workers: ‘They’re the best of us’

LONDON: U2 singer Bono has called for Israel to be “released from (Prime Minister) Benjamin Netanyahu and far-right fundamentalists.” 

The Irish musician made the statement at the Ivor Novello Awards, and called on Hamas to release all remaining hostages still being held in Gaza.

At the ceremony in London on Thursday, the singer said: “Peace creates possibilities in the most intractable situations. Lord knows there’s a few of them out there right now. 

“Hamas: Release the hostages. Stop the war. Israel: Be released from Benjamin Netanyahu and far-right fundamentalists that twist your sacred texts. All of you protect our aid workers, they’re the best of us.”

U2, who were at the ceremony to be honored with an Academy Fellowship, then performed their song “Bloody Sunday,” which references the massacre of peaceful protesters by British troops in Londonderry, Northern Ireland, in 1972.

It is the first time that Bono, who received the Peace Summit Award at the 2008 Nobel Peace Laureates Summit, has spoken publicly about Netanyahu since the outbreak of the Gaza war in October 2023.

His words coincided with criticism of the prime minister by a number of Western leaders over Israel’s approach to the war, with international bodies warning that Gaza faces famine following an 11-week blockade on aid entering the Palestinian enclave.


Kneecap say Glastonbury slot at risk after terrorism charge

Updated 23 May 2025
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Kneecap say Glastonbury slot at risk after terrorism charge

  • Group member scheduled to appear in court on June 18

DUBAI: The Irish rap group Kneecap said this week that efforts are ongoing to block their appearance at Glastonbury this summer, following a surprise show held just one day after one of their members was charged with a terrorism-related offence.

During their performance at London’s 100 Club on Thursday night, the trio said they were being made a “scapegoat” because they “spoke about the genocide (in Gaza)” at Coachella in April.

Group member Liam Og O Hannaidh was charged on Wednesday with a terrorism offence for allegedly displaying a flag in support of Hezbollah at a gig in London in November 2024. The rapper performs under the stage name Mo Chara and he is scheduled to appear at Westminster Magistrates’ Court in London on June 18.

The police force’s counter-terrorism command was made aware on April 22 of an online video from the event and then carried out an investigation. After that, the Crown Prosecution Service authorized the charge. 

The group posted on social media and said in a statement: “We deny this ‘offence’ and will vehemently defend ourselves. This is political policing. This is a carnival of distraction.”

They added: “14,000 babies are about to die of starvation in Gaza, with food sent by the world sitting on the other side of a wall, and once again the British establishment is focused on us.

“This is a carnival of distraction. We are not the story, genocide is.”

Hours after the charge was filed, Kneecap announced a last-minute gig that reportedly sold out in 90 seconds, with 2,000 people on the waiting list. 

Chara took to the stage at 9 p.m. with tape over his mouth in a symbolic protest. He suggested the timing of the charge was deliberate, saying it came just ahead of their scheduled Glastonbury appearance.

He said: “There’s a reason why what’s happened to me happened before Glastonbury. There’s a reason they’re trying to … stop me speaking at Glastonbury in front of the UK.”


Fashion trailblazers honored at Riyadh awards

Updated 23 May 2025
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Fashion trailblazers honored at Riyadh awards

  • Saudi Fashion Awards spotlight innovators and local talent
  • Women’s Wear Daily collaborates to honor Saudi creatives

RIYADH: Women’s Wear Daily, in collaboration with the Saudi Fashion Commission, honored several creatives at an awards ceremony in Riyadh on Thursday.

(AN: Huda Bashatah)

Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, was named International Designer of the Year, while Matteo Tamburini, creative director of Tod’s, received the International Brand of the Year award.

Patrick Ta, founder of Patrick Ta Beauty, was named International Beauty Innovator of the Year, and Glow Recipe was awarded International Beauty Brand of the Year.

(AN: Huda Bashatah)

Additional awards presented by the Saudi Fashion Commission celebrated the achievements of several Saudi Arabia brands and individuals.

Rawan Kattoa was named Fashion Stylist of the Year, Rayyan Nawawi received the Fashion Photographer of the Year award, and KML was recognized as Menswear Brand of the Year.

(AN: Huda Bashatah)

In addition, Abadia was named Womenswear Brand of the Year,  Charmaleena as Jewelry Brand of the Year, and the Elite Model Honorary Award for Model of the Year went to Talida Tamer.

The judging panel included industry leaders Law Roach, Amanda Smith, Burak Cakmak, Xavier Romatet, Mohammed Aldabbageh, and Mai Badr.

(AN: Huda Bashatah)

In her acceptance speech, Kattoa said: “This award means so much to me. It represents a journey that started as a freelancer ... I want to thank my husband for his support, my parents for their inspiration, and all the creatives who made this possible.”

Ahmad Hassan, co-founder of KML, said: “This is such an award for the first time ... It means the world to us. Being recognized in our home country makes this achievement even more special.”

(AN: Huda Bashatah)

“We were born and raised here, and to have our work celebrated in Riyadh is a dream come true. This award inspires us to push boundaries and innovate in our designs,” he added.

Reflecting on the evolving fashion scene, Hassan said: “Events like this showcase the incredible talent we have in Saudi Arabia. It encourages us to keep creating and to elevate our craft.”

“We are committed to telling our story through fashion and contributing to this vibrant industry,” he added.


REVIEW: ‘Lilo and Stitch’ returns with heart, hula and a whole lot of charm

Updated 23 May 2025
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REVIEW: ‘Lilo and Stitch’ returns with heart, hula and a whole lot of charm

  • Homage to 2002 classic while vibrantly fresh
  • Maia Kealoha, 8, playing Lilo steals the show

DUBAI: The new “Lilo & Stitch” reboot honors the 2002 classic while giving it a vibrant look and feel for a new generation.

With stunning animation, amazing casting, and a deep sense of nostalgia, the film strikes an emotional chord from the opening frame.

With the original film being one of the most beloved Disney classics, there was a lot of pressure riding on this remake, especially considering the inconsistency in the latest Disney productions.

Visually, the animation is outstandingly expressive.

The Hawaiian landscapes practically glow and the redesigns of Stitch and his alien companions retain their mischievous charm, even with the updated disguises for Jumba Pleakley.

Although many were not happy with these changes, I personally loved the scene of them learning how to walk as humans.

The emotional core of the film, however, remains unchanged: the powerful bond between sisters Lilo and Nani.

Their dynamic is portrayed with warmth and honesty, balancing cheeky sibling rivalry moments with sincere, tender ones.

The comedic timing is spot-on throughout the movie but is not overdone to the point where it becomes cringey.

Casting is another major win.

The new ensemble delivers energy and heart, with the debuting young actress, Maia Kealoha, 8, playing Lilo stealing the show. She captures Lilo’s quirky spirit, fiery independence and emotional depth perfectly.

While longtime fans may note a few subtle updates to the characters and plot, the film stays true to its core message of family, belonging, and unconditional love.

The film really tugs at the heart strings and may even leave one teary-eyed at some points.

Reintroducing the beloved story to a new generation, “Lilo and Stitch” is a must-watch this summer.


‘An architecture of connection’ — inside the Saudi pavilion at Venice

Updated 23 May 2025
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‘An architecture of connection’ — inside the Saudi pavilion at Venice

  • Sara Alissa and Nojoud Alsudairi discuss their work for this year’s Venice Architecture Biennale 

VENICE: “The embroidery that you see is what remains of the vernacular fabric in central Riyadh,” says Sara Alissa, one half of Syn Architects, a small, research-focused practice founded by Alissa and Nojoud Alsudairi in 2019. “What’s interesting is, when people enter and they understand what is embroidered, they are either taken aback by how much remains, or how little.” 

Alissa is sitting on a long sculptural table occupying the central axis of the National Pavilion of Saudi Arabia. It’s the second day of previews at the Venice Architecture Biennale, and all eyes are on “The Um Slaim School: An Architecture of Connection.” Running until Nov. 23 and commissioned by the Ministry of Culture’s Architecture and Design Commission, the exhibition is a moment of truth for Alissa and Alsudairi, who have dedicated their careers to ecologically sensitive architectural design. 

Caption

Conceived as a living archive and a hub for communal gathering, the pavilion showcases the work of the Um Slaim Collective — a research, exhibition, and workshop space founded by Syn Architects in 2021. Dedicated to studying the displacement of Najdi architecture in central Riyadh, the collective — or lab — is a physical manifestation of the practice’s research, drawing on local architectural theories, creative practices, and environmental histories to examine the impact of rapid urban expansion on central Riyadh. It is, says Alsudairi, who could not make it to Venice, a grassroots attempt to collect history, data, and research in order to rethink both urban spaces and neighborhood communities.  

In essence, the pavilion is an evolution of the duo’s work and acts as a launchpad for The Um Slaim School — a propositional pedagogical platform that builds on the work of both Syn Architects and the Um Slaim Collective. As such, it is a re-evaluation of the role of architects within a city like Riyadh and introduces a new model for architectural education in Saudi Arabia, one that merges historical insight with contemporary practice to create shared spaces for learning, making, and cultural exchange. 

 The National Pavilion of Saudi Arabia at the Venice Architecture Biennale. (Courtesy of the Architecture and Design Commission)

“It’s a more refined lab than we have in Riyadh,” says Alissa of the pavilion, which has been curated by Beatrice Leanza with assistance from the Saudi interdisciplinary artist and curator Sara Almutlaq. “We don’t know what’s going to happen, but we wanted to put forth something in Venice that we could benefit from after and not something that gets discarded right after the exhibition closes. We also wanted to create an experience and a feeling that people can leave with.”  

Alissa is sitting in a ‘building within a building.’ Located in the Arsenale — one of the biennale’s two main venues — the pavilion’s exhibition features four rows of scaffolding wrapped in layered textiles. These textiles, embroidered with maps featuring the nine districts of central Riyadh and various drawings, are interspersed with film, writing, and photography, all of which explore the stories and relationships woven into the architectural fabric of Riyadh. The exhibition includes an immersive sound installation created by Mohammed Alhamdan, which layers urban recordings of Riyadh, the city’s construction, and traditional builders’ chants.  

Um Slaim Neighborhood, in Riyadh in 2021. (Courtesy Syn Architects)

Alhamdan’s installation is one of three new commissions integrated into the exhibition. Set into one of the scaffolding walls is Saudi artist Maha Malluh’s “Tamwenat Addirah,” which explores the identity of the Um Slaim neighborhood through collected market items. Elsewhere, the photography of Laurian Ghinițoiu documents the ritualized rhythms of daily life. Alongside these, the photography of Mansour Alsofi captures modernist and postmodernist buildings in the city, while historical photographs and archival books chart its urban and architectural development. All of the artists and photographers have previously collaborated with Syn Architects.  

Ephemeral in nature, the space highlights some of the projects and interventions carried out by Syn Architects over the past five years, including the Shamalat Cultural Centre, an old mud building on the edge of Diriyah, which was converted into a cultural hub by Malluh and renovated by the architects in 2022. For their reimagining of the traditional mud house through restoration and addition, Alissa and Alsudairi were recently awarded the Moira Gemmill Prize for Emerging Architecture. 

(Courtesy of the Architecture and Design Commission, the Commissioner for the National Pavilion of Saudi Arabia)

“When Nojoud and I started our practice, we felt a responsibility,” says Alissa. “We’re young Saudi architects working in the city and we wanted to create, or help create, this contemporary architectural language within the country. We felt the need to really explore our historical built fabric, but also the values embedded within it. We are advocating for restoration in a physical sense, but also in an intangible sense, where we restore the successful values associated with Najdi architecture.” 

The duo’s work inhabits the metaphorical space between the building and the scaffold, says Alsudairi, and seeks to challenge both neglect and over-romanticization — reviving vernacular structures not as relics or ruins, but as functional, living elements within the urban fabric. It also examines the ways in which cultural preservation and contemporary design can coexist. In doing so, their goal is to restore knowledge, to preserve, and ultimately to share what they have learned.  

(Courtesy of the Architecture and Design Commission, the Commissioner for the National Pavilion of Saudi Arabia)

“We didn’t want to depart from the core work we’ve been doing with the Um Slaim Collective, so we chose to build on that,” explains Alsudairi. “We saw it as a valuable opportunity to expand the collective’s knowledge-sharing focus and move toward something more permanent. Right now, the school is a propositional project, but imagine the value of creating a school that is truly site-specific, in the sense that it doesn’t import knowledge, but grows from its own context.” 

It has been an overwhelming few months for the young studio, which has been catapulted into the spotlight since the announcement of the Saudi pavilion in early February.   

“Before we came to Venice, I was telling my daughter I’d be away for the biennale,” says Alissa. “She’s seven, she’s aware, and she kind of understands what we’re doing. And she was saying, ‘Oh, I hope you win in Venice.’ I’m like, ‘It’s not about winning.’ And then she sends me a message, saying, ‘I don’t care if you win. I’m just happy that you’re doing what you’re doing.’ It was so sweet.  

(Courtesy of the Architecture and Design Commission, the Commissioner for the National Pavilion of Saudi Arabia)

“Sometimes we feel very overwhelmed and unsure if we even want to continue because of how difficult things are. But then we have these moments — whether from our children, from people around us, or from each other. I think it’s something we rarely say out loud, but having a partner to go through it all with is really key.” 

Running alongside the exhibition is a complementary program of laboratorial and public sessions led by Leanza and supported by the Bahraini architect, researcher, and photographer Maryam AlNoaimi. It includes lectures, workshops, performances, screenings, readings, and walks that seek to foster dialogue on how architecture influences education and community-based practice. 

“I would be lying if I said we have an exact plan of where we’re going, because we didn’t have this in our plan,” says Alissa. “We definitely had an aspiration to do the Biennale, but never for this kind of duration. As long as we keep learning along the way, I think the objective is to plant the seed with this propositional school and see where it takes us.”