Pakistan’s Sirbaz Khan scales Mt Everest without supplementary oxygen

The file photo shows Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan poses with a Pakistani flag at the top of Mt. Dhaulagiri in Nepal. (Photo courtesy: Sirbaz_Mission14/Instagram)
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Updated 21 May 2024
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Pakistan’s Sirbaz Khan scales Mt Everest without supplementary oxygen

  • Khan is the first Pakistani to summit 11 out of 14 ‘eight-thousanders’ without using supplementary oxygen
  • He was part of ‘Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition,’ which included 14 international climbers, 18 sherpas

KHAPLU, GILGIT-BALTISTAN: Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan on Tuesday achieved another milestone by successfully scaling the world’s tallest mountain, Mount Everest, without supplementary oxygen, Pakistani and Nepalese expedition organizers said.
Born and raised in Ali Abad village in Pakistan’s mountainous Hunza district, Khan has previously summited 13 of the 14 peaks in the world above the height of 8,000 meters, including K2.
He was part of the ‘Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition’ team, which included 14 international climbers and 18 sherpas who reached the 8,849-meter-high summit on Tuesday morning, according to the Imagine Nepal tour company and the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
“Congratulations to Sirbaz Khan on successfully summiting Mount Everest 8,848.86 meters (29,031.69 feet) without the use of supplemental oxygen,” Karrar Haidri, secretary-general of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said in a statement.
The team of 14 international climbers and 18 sherpas summitted Everest in “various hours between NPT 5:15 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. on the morning of 21 May 2024,” the Imagine Nepal tour company said in a Facebook post.
Khan’s family celebrated the feat in Pakistan, according to his younger brother, Shahbaz Khan.
“We are very happy because today Sirbaz summited Everest without supplementary oxygen. We are celebrating this moment and especially our mother is very excited. There is an environment of festivity at our home,” Shahbaz told Arab News over the phone.
“Whenever he [Sirbaz] starts his summit push, we offer special prayers for him. Because you know, we can’t trust the mountains. However, when he summits, we celebrate. Now we are also offering prayers for his safe descent.”
Khan planned to summit the 8,027-meter Shishapangma peak — the last of the 14 peaks above 8,000 meters — but had to delay the expedition as China did not open the mountain to international climbers, according to his brother.
He also climbed Everest in 2021 and is the first Pakistani to climb 11 out of 14 ‘eight-thousanders’ without oxygen support. Khan had summitted only Annapurna and Kangchenjunga peaks using oxygen support.
“Congratulations @sirbazkhan_mission14 for climbing Everest without supplemental oxygen and a personal sherpa. He is now the only Pakistani to climb 11 peaks without Oxygen,” Naila Kiani, a Pakistani woman climber, said in an Instagram post.
“Sirbaz is the second [Pakistani after] Sajid Ali Sadpara to climb Everest without O2, following our younger brother @sajidalisadpara, who climbed it last year. Sirbaz is also the only Pakistani to climb Everest twice. Climbing Everest without oxygen is a true test of human grit. Congratulations, Ustad.”


Government to move Imran Khan to hospital as lawyers seek his release from jail on health grounds

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Government to move Imran Khan to hospital as lawyers seek his release from jail on health grounds

  • Minister says the government is fulfilling its legal duty, urges against politicizing the matter
  • Khan’s family says the ex-PM spoke to sons for 20 minutes, calls for urgent eye treatment

ISLAMABAD: Pakistan’s government said on Saturday it has decided to transfer jailed former prime minister Imran Khan to a hospital and form a medical board for his eye treatment, as opposition protests over the issue entered a second day and his lawyers moved a high court to seek his release on health grounds.

The developments follow a report submitted to the Supreme Court by a lawyer appointed as amicus curiae who was asked to visit Khan at Rawalpindi’s Adiala jail earlier this month. The report said the 73-year-old had suffered severe vision loss in his right eye due to central retinal vein occlusion, leaving him with only 15 percent sight in the affected eye.

The findings triggered a sit-in by an opposition alliance, including members of Khan’s Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf (PTI) party, demanding his immediate transfer to Islamabad’s Al-Shifa Hospital. Khan was also allowed to speak to his sons for about 20 minutes, according to his family, despite the former premier’s limited interactions with his family and legal team in recent months due to restrictions that the PTI has challenged in court.

In a social media post, Parliamentary Affairs Minister Tariq Fazal Chaudhry announced the government’s decision.

“Imran Khan has been provided the facility to speak with his sons on the phone and, in view of his health, it has also been decided to transfer him to hospital and constitute a medical board,” he said.

“The government gives priority to humanitarian considerations and legal requirements,” he continued. “Providing facilities to every prisoner in accordance with the law is the government’s responsibility.”

Chaudhry urged that sensitive health matters should not be politicized and said the government was fulfilling its responsibilities, calling for restraint and seriousness instead of what he described as baseless propaganda.

Earlier in the day, Khan’s lawyers filed a petition in the Islamabad High Court seeking suspension of a Dec. 20, 2025 conviction in a graft case involving state gifts, arguing that continued incarceration during the pendency of the appeal would result in a grave miscarriage of justice.

The petition says the judgment is under substantive legal challenge and requests suspension of the sentence until the appeal is decided, a remedy available under Pakistani law when serious questions are raised about a conviction.

According to medical documents cited in the filing, a specialist at the Pakistan Institute of Medical Sciences diagnosed severe damage to Khan’s right eye caused by a blood clot, stating the condition could not be adequately treated inside prison.

Meanwhile, the opposition alliance vowed to continue its sit-in outside Parliament House until Khan was shifted to hospital.

Mustafa Nawaz Khokhar, an opposition politician, told a news conference at the National Press Club that the opposition’s only demand was that Khan be granted full access to the required medical facilities.

“He has already lost vision in one eye,” he told the media.

“His treatment should take place in the presence of his family,” he continued. “Until this demand is met, we will not step back.”

Khan’s sister, Aleema Khan, also confirmed in a post on X that the former premier had spoken to his sons for about 20 minutes following a direction from the chief justice of Pakistan and that the family was now awaiting urgent treatment at Shifa International Hospital under the supervision of his personal doctors.

“We cannot and will not tolerate any further delay,” she said.