Ramadan delights bring spotlight to culinary traditions of Filipino Muslims

People dine at one of Filipino Muslim restaurants in the Manila Gold Mosque complex in Quiapo, Manila March 17, 2024. (AN Photo)
Short Url
Updated 21 March 2024
Follow

Ramadan delights bring spotlight to culinary traditions of Filipino Muslims

  • Fast is usually broken with pangat, or stewed banana in sweetened coconut milk
  • Fish eggs known as budi or pugha become a special highlight of Ramadan evenings

MANILA: From banana with coconut milk to rice with crunchy chicken floss and slow-cooked caramelized meat, Filipino Muslims serve special delicacies during Ramadan — rekindling their Catholic-majority country’s connection to a centuries-old Islamic heritage.
There are some 12 million Muslims in the Philippines, or about 10 percent of the population, living mostly on the island of Mindanao and in the Sulu archipelago in the country’s south, as well as in Manila.
As the third-largest Muslim community in Southeast Asia, after those in Indonesia and Malaysia, Filipino Muslims have been key to the country’s efforts to expand its halal industry. A big part of the expansion concerns food, putting Muslim culinary traditions in the spotlight, especially during Ramadan, when hearty iftar feasts close every fasting day.
Fast is usually broken with pangat, stewed banana in sweetened coconut milk, or sindol, a similar stew but with purple sweet potato and jackfruit.
For Aleem Guiapal, who hails from Maguindanao in south-central Mindanao, and is a project manager of the Philippine government’s Halal Industry Development Program, a sweet stew is a staple during the holy month.
“In the Maguindanao culture, we always have that every day during Ramadan ... for the whole month,” he told Arab News.
“After you drink water and eat dates — which is really part of the Islamic tradition — then you have the pangat or the sindol. It’s sweet, hot and the fruits used as ingredients like banana and purple yam are rich in potassium. So, it’s really filling and gives you energy.”
The light dish in many households is followed by rice with kagikit — an on-the-go meal, which is often sold by street vendors.
“It’s a ready-to-go food. It’s rice with crunchy chicken floss as a topping and wrapped in banana leaves. It’s a ready-to-grab food if you’re on the go. To cook the chicken topping, we add olive or coconut oil and a lot of spices, then we cook it until it becomes crunchy,” Guiapal said.


There are also fish eggs, known as budi among Maranaos in Lanao del Sur province and as pugha among Tausugs in western Mindanao and in the Sulu archipelago.
An expensive delicacy, the salt-cured roe cooked with turmeric and coconut milk becomes a special highlight of Ramadan evenings.
“It is very special,” said Mary Ann Sumpingan, who sells Maranao dishes near the Manila Gold Mosque. “You’re like a VIP when you eat budi.”
Another Maranao dish that Sumpingan recommended is chicken piaparan — chicken cooked in coconut milk, turmeric and a special paste made from ground wild leek, garlic, ginger and chiles.
The wild leak, or sakurab, is a special ingredient in the cuisine of Maranao Muslims, and is also used in another special dish, beef rendang, which is produced in a variety of ways among different communities across Indonesia and Malaysia.
“Sakurab is found only in Marawi. You chop it and combine it with coconut, and then add to the beef,” said Samira Gutoc, a native of Marawi City.
To make rendang, beef is cooked slowly in coconut milk, galangal and lemongrass until almost all the moisture is evaporated and the meat becomes tender and caramelized. It is often served with turmeric rice.
“Beef rendang is a staple ... during Ramadan, when the whole day you are hungry, that’s really one of the special dishes,” Gutoc told Arab News.
“The yellow rice — it’s very special. It gives you the feeling of royal treatment.”
But it is not the aromatic rice that is the highlight of iftar for Gutoc.
Instead, it is the meal, which is breakfast, lunch and dinner all in one, and the experience of sharing it with others — family, neighbors, colleagues and other community members.
“We share the food,” Gutoc said. “With everyone at the table, that’s what makes iftar special.”


Two high-speed trains derail in Spain, broadcaster reports seven people killed

Updated 40 min 50 sec ago
Follow

Two high-speed trains derail in Spain, broadcaster reports seven people killed

  • The accident happened near Adamuz, which is near Cordoba

MADRID: Two high-speed trains derailed on Sunday in southern Spain, the rail network operator said, and state-run television channel RTVE said seven people had died, citing police sources.
The accident ​happened near Adamuz, in Cordoba province. Seven people have been confirmed dead by police, RTVE said, adding that 100 people have been injured, 25 seriously.
Spanish police did not immediately respond to request for comment from Reuters.
“The Iryo 6189 Malaga — (to Madrid) train has derailed from the track at Adamuz, crashing onto the adjacent track. The (Madrid) to Huelva train which was traveling on the adjacent track has also derailed,” said Adif, which runs the rail network, in a social media post.
Adif said the accident happened at 6:40 p.m. (1740 GMT), about ten minutes ‌after the Iryo ‌train left Cordoba heading toward Madrid.
Iryo is a private rail ‌operator, ⁠majority-owned ​by Italian state-controlled ‌railway group Ferrovie dello Stato. The train involved was a Freccia 1000 train which was traveling between Malaga and Madrid, a spokesperson for Ferrovie dello Stato said.
Iryo did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
Adif has suspended all rail services between Madrid and Andalusia.
Andalusia emergency services said on social media that all rail traffic had been halted and emergency services were on their way, including at least nine ambulances and emergency support vehicles.

CALLS FOR MEDICS
A woman named Carmen posted on X that ⁠she had been on board the Iryo to Madrid. “Ten minutes after departing (from Cordoba) the train started to shake a lot, and ‌it derailed from coach 6 behind us. The lights went ‍out.”
Footage posted by another Iryo train ‍passenger, also on X, showed an Iryo staffer in a fluorescent jacket instructing passengers to remain ‍in their seats in the darkened carriages, and those with first aid training to keep watch over fellow passengers.
The staffer told passengers they would be evacuated when it was safe to leave, but at that moment the safest place was on the train. He also urged people to maintain mobile phone batteries ​to be able to use their torches when they disembarked.
The passenger wrote: “In our carriage we’re well but we don’t know about the other carriages. There’s ⁠smoke and they’re calling for a doctor.”
The regional government has activated emergency protocols to mobilize more resources to the accident site. Locals posted on social media that a building would be set up in the village nearest the crash for evacuated passengers to be taken to.
Salvador Jimenez, a journalist for RTVE who was on board the Iryo train, shared images showing the nose of the rear carriage of the train lying on its side, with evacuated passengers sitting on the side of the carriage facing upwards.
Jimenez told TVE by phone from beside the stricken trains that passengers had used emergency hammers to smash the windows and climb out, and they had seen two people taken out of the overturned carriages on stretchers.
“There’s a certain uncertainty about when we’ll get to Madrid, ‌where we’ll spend the night, we’ve had no message from the train company yet,” he said. “It’s very cold but here we are.”