Curiosity sparks growing demand for African art in the UAE

BREAKING THE MOULD: New signatures from the DRC, Installation view courtesy of YETU gallery, Kinshasa. (Supplied) 
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Updated 18 December 2022
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Curiosity sparks growing demand for African art in the UAE

  • Artists from Africa are making a name for themselves in Abu Dhabi and Dubai

DUBAI: In a warehouse at Alserkal Avenue — Dubai’s arts district — a group of 11 emerging artists from the Democratic Republic of Congo recently displayed their work in a week-long exhibition titled “Breaking the Mold.” The title was a reference to the attempts of the artists — all former students of the Academy of Fine Arts in the DRC’s capital, Kinshasa — to escape the restrictions of their academic training.

Artists on show included photographer Arlette Bashizi. Her series “Re-construction” uses self-portraiture to tackle stereotypes and misrepresentations of black, African (particularly Congolese) women. Multidisciplinary artist Chris Shongo, meanwhile, elevated Congolese women to the status of Egyptian queen Nefertiti — to whom he attributes the origin of African women’s lineage — in his work “Nefercongo.” 




BREAKING THE MOULD: New signatures from the DRC, Installation view courtesy of YETU gallery, Kinshasa. (Supplied) 

The exhibition was staged by Yetu Management, an organization that promotes Congolese art and which recently opened its own gallery in Kinshasa.

“It seems there’s a lot of curiosity about art from Africa. I heard people saying they don’t get to see enough of it in Dubai, which hopefully we can change,” the gallery’s director Daria Kirsanova told Arab News. “We are now thinking about coming back with another project in 2023 to keep the conversation going.”

“Breaking the Mold” was just one of an increasing number of art events in Dubai and Abu Dhabi in which African art has made an appearance.




BREAKING THE MOULD: New signatures from the DRC, Installation view courtesy of YETU gallery, Kinshasa. (Supplied) 

At the recent Abu Dhabi Art fair, there were several first-time participants from the African continent, signaling a growing appetite for art from Africa in the UAE.  For example, Kó, an art space in Lagos, Nigeria, run by Kavita Chellaram, participated for the first time physically, after a virtual participation in 2020.

“We want to engage in cross-cultural exchange between Africa, North Africa and the Middle East,” said Chellaram, who showed both modern and contemporary Nigerian artists.

Cape Town-based THK showed for the first time at the fair, presenting a solo booth by Abdus Salaam, an artist who converted to Islam at the age of nine. His sculptural works convey a “mystic abstraction,” according to the gallery.

Afriart gallery from Kampala, Uganda, participated for the second time, showing works by Uganda-based artists Mona Taha and Sanaa Gateja priced at between $4,000 and $30,000.




BREAKING THE MOULD: New signatures from the DRC, Installation view courtesy of YETU gallery, Kinshasa. (Supplied) 

Efie Gallery, founded by Ghanaian family Valentina, Kwame and Kobi Mintah, is a more-permanent fixture in the UAE art scene. It recently celebrated the first anniversary of its establishment at Dubai’s Al-Khayat Art Avenue. It is the city’s second African art gallery; the first — Akka Project — opened in 2016.

In the year since it opened, Efie Gallery has hosted seven exhibitions, including the acclaimed Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui’s first solo show in the city, and a collaborative exhibition with the UK auction house Christie’s featuring work by El Anatsui alongside fast-rising Ghanaian artists Isshaq Ismail and Yaw Owusu.

Efie Gallery’s success is partly due to the increased demand for African art in the international art market.

According to a recent edition of ArtTactic’s Modern and Contemporary African Artist Market Report, exploring auction sales between 2016 and 2021, African art has increased in popularity, with sales increasing by 44 percent in 2021, from $50 million in 2020 to $72 million last year, and with contemporary art galleries around the world increasingly eager to show work from the continent.




BREAKING THE MOULD: New signatures from the DRC, Installation view courtesy of YETU gallery, Kinshasa. (Supplied) 

“The rapid expansion of the gallery’s extensive program is testament to the contemporary art scene here in Dubai,” Kwame Mintah told Arab News. “The collaborative approach of government, institutions, private stakeholders and collectors alike further positions art as a key contributor to the region’s (cultural) and economic development.”

The gallery is currently showing El Anatsui’s monumental bottlecap work “Detsi” at the Arts Club in Dubai and a solo show by Yaw Owusu — running until Dec. 20 — which includes work he created during a residency at the gallery over the summer.

Next up, Efie Gallery will show “The Art of Advocacy” — an exhibition of images by Ethiopian photographer Aida Muluneh, including an exclusive never-before-seen photograph — that runs from Jan. 12 until Feb. 24.


Ashi Studio returns to Paris Haute Couture Week with spring/summer 2026 collection

Updated 30 January 2026
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Ashi Studio returns to Paris Haute Couture Week with spring/summer 2026 collection

DUBAI: Ashi Studio, the Saudi haute couture label founded by Mohammed Ashi, presented its spring/summer 2026 collection in Paris as part of Paris Haute Couture Week, joining a growing number of Arab designers showing on the official calendar.

Look 1 by Ashi Studio. (Supplied)

Set against softly draped fabric, the show this week focused on structure and craftsmanship, with garments defined by corsetry, layered surfaces and precise construction.

Corseted bodices appeared throughout the collection, many extending outward at the hips to create architectural silhouettes that framed the body. These shapes were executed in materials ranging from matte fabric to polished, reflective finishes that resembled molded metal or lacquered leather.

Look 2 by Ashi Studio. (Supplied)

In several looks, corsets were paired with sheer skirts, fine tulle layers or elongated panels that exposed the garment’s underlying structure.

Dresses made from feather-like strands, fringe and shredded materials contrasted with the rigidity of sculpted bodices, while embroidery and beadwork were applied in bands and clustered formations across the torso and hem.

The color palette remained restrained, moving between ivory, sand, taupe, bronze, black and deep burgundy. Darker looks included structured gowns and tailored coats with exaggerated shoulders, while lighter tones were used for sculpted white dresses, sheer wrapped pieces and feathered designs.

Look 3 by Ashi Studio. (Supplied)

Accessories were kept minimal, with sculptural clutches and headpieces used sparingly to maintain focus on the garments themselves.

Ashi Studio’s presentation took place alongside shows by Arab designers including Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra, Tony Ward and Rami Al-Ali, underscoring the region’s continued presence on the Paris Haute Couture Week schedule.

Look 4 by Ashi Studio. (Supplied)

Ashi’s creations have been worn by the likes of Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Queen Rania of Jordan, and more.

Ashi became the first couturier from the Gulf region to join the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023. He also became the first designer from the Gulf to be included in the BoF 500 list, the Business of Fashion’s index of the people shaping the fashion industry in 2023.

Ashi designed the inaugural fashion line for the cabin crew of the Kingdom’s new airline, Riyadh Air, which is on track to make its maiden flight in 2025.