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Five contemporary abaya brands that are anything but basic

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Updated 28 April 2022
Khaoula Ghanem
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Five contemporary abaya brands that are anything but basic

Updated 28 April 2022
Khaoula Ghanem

DUBAI: For thousands of years, the abaya has been a sartorial staple for women across the Middle East. The loose robe-like garment, which dates back 4,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia, constitutes national dress in countries like the UAE and Saudi Arabia, serving as a symbol of modesty. 

Today, the abaya is a far cry from the plain black cloak of the past. With time, the floor-length robe has evolved into a fashion statement, with many different designs available. The new wave of garments, while engineered for modesty, feature contemporary elements like jewel-encrusted palm trees, black lace trim and embroidered hearts, and come in experimental and playful colors, silhouettes and fabrics that are anything but basic. 

However, no matter how much it has evolved, the abaya remains the ultimate garment for women across the region. Read on for five contemporary abaya brands that need to be on your radar.

Illi

Designer Rawdha Thani’s abaya line, which means “my daughter” in Berber, is known for its beautiful contemporary and ethereal designs. The Emirati-Moroccan designer’s instantly recognizable label, launched during the pandemic, has gained recognition for its pastel palette, fringed sleeves and celestial-inspired embroidery. The collection of pistachio, lavender, mint, rainbow sorbet and canary-colored robes has practically revolutionized the concept of the abaya, spawning a number of copycats along the way. The brand recently introduced a line of colorful heart-embellished tote bags made out of shiny vegan leather, and a range of kaftans for Ramadan, which sold out before the designer even had a chance to shoot a look book.

Chador

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Chador | Riyadh (@chador)

Saudi designer Nora Aldamer launched Chador in 2013 after noticing increasing demand for traditional clothing with a modern twist. It was not long before the Parsons graduate’s label made a name for itself in Aldamer’s hometown of Riyadh. With its tailored, trench-inspired abayas in non-traditional hues, the brand found great success with Saudi women seeking something to fulfil their contemporary taste while remaining conservative and sticking to their roots.

Wings

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by WINGS (@wingsxdubai)

This handmade abaya label was founded by Emirati electrical engineer-turned-fashion-designer Al Anood Al-Mansoori. Inspired by the movement of birds, Al-Mansoori has churned out a lineup of on-trend abaya designs for the holy season that will ensure you are the best dressed person at any sahoor gathering. Standout designs include a graphic printed chiffon abaya that comes with a matching dress and opera gloves that can also be worn on their own. In addition to a Ramadan collection, Wings features an expansive lineup of edgy and contemporary designs that includes an exquisite black overlay embroidered with a giant bird on the back, and creations that merge the trenchcoat with the traditional abaya, and can easily double as outerwear.

Kamin 

If you feel like you have been seeing Kamin’s abayas everywhere, well, it is because you have. Our Instagram feeds have been flooded with pictures of regional it-girls smiling and posing in an array of chic pieces named after traditional Arabic female names from the Dubai-based brand. Everyone from Riyadh-based Nia Amroun to Emirati blogger Nouf Al-Tamimi have been spotted wearing the label’s super-affordable tailored sets and satin kaftans. For Eid, the brand has whipped up a new festive collection of overlays with matching sheilas in a muted color palette of grey, ivory, blush and black. But those who wish to get their hands on the coveted new collection may want to act fast — two of the designs are already sold out.

The Cap Project

Founded in 2017 by an anonymous local design duo hailing from the UAE, the rising brand is coveted for its modern take on the Emirati woman’s sartorial staple by way of deconstructed tailoring, oversized silhouettes and a vibrant color palette, making it anything but the traditional black abaya. The brand earned its name from the duo’s sustainable business model that entails producing limited pieces for purchase. Once an item is out of stock, even if there’s a demand, the designers will not produce more. “We just want girls to feel like they have something exclusive and that’s just for them,” explained the designers.

Topics: abayas

Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy (center) with his son (right) and longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami (left). (AN photo)
Updated 5 sec ago
SALEH FAREED
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Saudi traditional meal anchors Al-Balad’s culinary scene

  • Slow-cooked sheep’s head is drawing new generations and visitors to Jeddah’s historic district
Updated 5 sec ago
SALEH FAREED

JEDDAH: In the streets of Al-Balad, where centuries-old buildings frame one of Saudi Arabia’s most storied districts, culinary heritage continues to draw visitors as powerfully as architecture. 

Among the area’s enduring attractions is Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat, a family-run restaurant that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958, turning a once-necessity meal into a symbol of Saudi food culture and hospitality.

Tucked into Baba Makkah, Al-Balad’s historic core, Al-Shadwy began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. (AN photo)

Now run by the third generation of the Al-Shadwy family, the restaurant remains devoted to a single specialty; sheep’s head, slow-roasted over charcoal using a recipe unchanged for decades.

Eating sheep’s head has long been rooted in Arab culinary traditions, shaped by the principle of using the entire animal and avoiding waste. In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering.

Sixty-five-year-old owner Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, who inherited the restaurant from his grandfather and father, remains a familiar presence at the restaurant, overseeing the service and greeting customers. 

FASTFACTS

• Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat is a family-run restaurant in Al-Balad that has served one of the Kingdom’s most traditional dishes since 1958.

• It began as a modest corner table before becoming a landmark destination for locals, food enthusiasts and tourists seeking an authentic taste of the past.

He told Arab News that the dish has been central to Saudi culinary culture for generations.

“The sheep’s head has been a staple in Saudi Arabia and other GCC countries culinary culture for centuries,” he said. “Traditionally, it was a meal served during cold winter mornings to provide energy and warmth. In many regions of Saudi Arabia, the sheep head (is) always on the top of the main plate for guests, and families festive holidays gather in restaurants or at home to enjoy the sheep’s head, making it a social and festive occasion.”

In Saudi Arabia, the dish evolved into communal meal associated with generosity, warmth and social gathering. (AN photo)

Speaking about its significance in hospitality culture, he added: “Serving it to guests is considered an act of generosity and care.” Rich and filling, it is most commonly eaten as breakfast or an early morning meal.

Preparing sheep’s head is a slow, careful process. According to Al-Shadwy, the heads are cooked at low temperatures to soften the tendons and connective tissue, resulting in tender meat and deep flavor.

The preparation includes curing and slow cooking, a method that has remained largely unchanged at the restaurant for more than six decades. 

Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history.

Ghalib Naji Al-Shadwy, Al-Shadwy for Sheep Head Meat owner

“I’ve cooked many sheep heads a while back and I still enjoy it,” he said. “Most of the customers actually prefer the head and the brain.”

Despite its small size and somewhat tucked-away location, the restaurant’s popularity is unmistakable. Long queues form outside each morning, often guiding first-time visitors to its door. A sign reading “Al-Shadwy Mandi” in Arabic marks the entrance, while the steady crowd confirms its reputation.

Over the years, the restaurant has attracted officials, celebrities and social media figures, with photographs of notable guests lining the walls. Al-Shadwy said the steady attention reflections Al-Balad’s growing appeal as a cultural and culinary destination.

He said that interest in sheep’s head is no longer limited to older generations. Younger Saudis, he said, are increasingly curious about traditional dishes, while tourists often see it as an adventurous experience. 

“For many visitors, trying sheep’s head is considered ‘extreme food’ or a challenging dish,” he said. “But it gives them a sense of adventure and a unique story to tell.”

Inside the lively restaurant one morning, longtime customer Abu Samer Al-Sulami, who has been dining there for 40 years, described it as a rare example of authentic Saudi cuisine.

“I am a regular customer here and always come early in the morning because when you eat the sheep’s head it really gives you energy for work,” he said. 

Demand is highest in the early hours, particularly on Fridays. Al-Shadwy said the restaurant often sells out by mid-morning, making early visits essential.

“The number of sheep heads our restaurant sells daily varies but it reaches around 200 heads,” he added.

As he works alongside his two sons, Al-Shadwy says preserving the family legacy is as important as serving the fish. 

“Being a family-owned restaurant here for so many years makes us a part of Jeddah’s history,” he said. 

 

Topics: Al-Balad Jeddah Saudi Arabia Saudi culinary Saudi traditional food

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