'Mural with a message': Pakistani truck artist on a mission to promote environmental protection

Pakistani truck artist Iqbal Sanam creates a mural to promote environmental protection in Karachi, Pakistan, on July 27, 2021. (AN Photo)
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Updated 28 July 2021
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'Mural with a message': Pakistani truck artist on a mission to promote environmental protection

  • Iqbal Sanam says painting is an effective way to bring about social change, create awareness
  • Under new initiative, murals with climate change message being painted in busy areas of Karachi

KARACHI: A Pakistani artist on Tuesday scratched advertising posters from a pillar supporting a busy flyover in the port city of Karachi, and then began painting “a mural with a message” over the palimpsest.
Iqbal Sanam, a renowned truck artist who has painted murals around the world, including on the Berlin Wall, believes he can use his art to create awareness about social issues. These days, he wants to remind his fellow residents of Karachi about the dangers posed by climate change.
“This mural not only has trees but also plumes of smoke that are spreading across the jungle, endangering its greenery and wildlife,” Sanam told Arab News, describing the painting he was working on. “Its message is to preserve nature and protect forests and trees.”
“A painting with a message educates many,” the artist added. “We are reaching out to students, our future generation, along with the general public with the message of environmental protection since that can benefit our loved ones and the world at large.”




Jawad Ali, who works at a local hospital, takes photos of a mural near Karachi’s Civic Center, Pakistan, on July 27, 2021. (AN Photo) 

Tariq Khan, a director of the Sadequain Foundation, said Sanam’s mural was part of an initiative to paint bus stops, flyovers and education institutions with colorful artwork that would create awareness and lead people to reflect on the perils of climate change. 
“The first in the series of these murals was painted on a wall of Sir Syed Girls’ College about two days ago,” Khan said. “That depicted the adverse effect of climate change by highlighting how the melting of glaciers recently flooded parts of Germany.”
Another mural with a climate change message would next be painted near a crowded traffic signal at Ayesha Manzil, a busy area in Karachi, Khan said: “We have chosen places that are visited by large numbers of people to create greater awareness.”




People look at a mural showing melting glaciers and floods that was recently painted on a wall of Sir Syed Girls’ College in Karachi, Pakistan, on July 27, 2021. (AN Photo)

Jawad Ali, who works at a local hospital, stopped to have a look at Sanam’s painting on his way to work. 
“Deforestation can have a drastic impact on our lives,” he told Arab News. “People should ponder over the message of this mural.”
Yousuf Rehman, who drives an autorickshaw, also pulled over to study the mural. 
“It is soothing to see such beautiful paintings,” he said, “instead of provocative slogans and ugly posters on the walls.”


Walnut tree remains ‘under arrest’ for over a century, living symbol of colonial power in Pakistan

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Walnut tree remains ‘under arrest’ for over a century, living symbol of colonial power in Pakistan

  • British officer is said to have ordered chaining of the tree in 1898, a reminder of the absolute authority and psychological control enforced under colonial rule in Khyber Pass region
  • Locals and historians say the shackled tree survives as a physical memory of the Frontier Crimes Regulation era, when even nature could be punished to discipline subjects and display power

LANDI KOTAL, KHYBER: In the military cantonment of Landi Kotal, close to Pakistan’s Torkham border crossing with Afghanistan and the mouth of the historic Khyber Pass, a single walnut tree stands bound in heavy iron chains.

It has been this way for more than a century, a surreal, almost absurd monument to the power structures and punitive imagination of the British Empire’s rule in the tribal frontier.

Black shackles still brace parts of its branches, giving it the appearance of a theatrical installation. To locals, it is a wound that never fully healed, a reminder that even nature could be punished when authority wished to show dominance.

Local oral histories trace the origin of this bizarre imprisonment to 1898, when a British officer named James Squid, allegedly intoxicated, believed the tree was moving toward him and instantly ordered it arrested. Soldiers carried out the instruction and the walnut tree has never been freed since.

Muhammad Sardar, the caretaker who oversees the site today, recounted the story as it has been passed down for generations.

“This British military official at that time was drunk and thought this walnut tree was moving toward him to attack him,” he told Arab News. “The officer ordered to arrest this tree, hence the soldiers had to obey the order and arrest this tree.”

Whether the event unfolded exactly as described is impossible to verify, but historians and residents agree on what the continued chaining represented: the unquestionable authority of colonial power.

A LAW THAT COULD BIND PEOPLE — AND TREES

Landi Kotal was one of the most militarized points of the British-controlled frontier, a strategic chokepoint along the Khyber Pass, a route armies, traders and empires have used for thousands of years. To control the region, the British introduced the Frontier Crimes Regulation (FCR), a law that denied locals the right to appeal, hire lawyers or challenge government decisions. Entire tribes could be punished for the suspected action of one member.

The chained walnut tree is often interpreted as a physical embodiment of that era: a warning made visible.

Dr. Syed Waqar Ali Shah, Assistant Professor of History at the University of Peshawar, said the symbolism was deliberate.

“It was an assertion of their [British] authority, it was a symbol of their power. Right. It’s a funny thing as well, because it’s something which was under the influence of some intoxication,” he explained.

“The officer behaved or gave orders for the imprisonment of that particular tree under the influence of some intoxicants.”

Dr. Shah continued:

“It was something which was a symbol of colonial authority, assertion of their authority, of bureaucratic diplomacy, a symbol of their bureaucratic strength and power, and maybe some cultural encounter as well.”

He added that such displays endured because “it was a cultural link between the locals and the colonial power. So it was a reflection of that. But later on, they continued with it in the presence of FCR (Frontier Crimes Regulation) and regulations like this.”

Even once the officer sobered, the chains remained.

Dr. Shah believes that was intentional: psychological messaging meant to instill conformity and fear in people living under colonial law.

“Their objective and purpose was to make it a symbol of discipline for the masses. It was an exhibition of power, a sheer exhibition of power, a symbol that if we can do this to something which was inhuman … if they can deal with a tree like this, so the general public, they should be aware that discipline is very important.”

Landi Kotal’s older residents say their fathers and grandfathers retold the story long before Pakistan existed and long before independence movements dismantled the Raj.

Usman Khan Shinwari, a 26-year-old shopkeeper, said the story continues to live in households like a family inheritance.

“My grandfather would often narrate this story of the arrested tree,” he recalled. “My grandfather would say that it shows how the then rulers were treating the locals and what our ancestors had endured.”

Over a century later, long after the end of British rule and the formal abolition of the Frontier Crimes Regulation in 2018, the walnut tree remains exactly where it was chained, part spectacle, part scar.

Tourists sometimes come to photograph it. Others stand silently before it.

But for many in Khyber, it is neither attraction nor curiosity.

It is proof that power once flowed one way only. A tree could be punished, so people learned not to resist.