No money, no mutton: Lebanon crisis upends Eid tradition

People wait for their orders at a butcher shop in Lebanon’s northern port city of Tripoli, as Muslims across the world get ready to celebrate Eid Al-Adha, July 28, 2020. (AFP)
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Updated 30 July 2020
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No money, no mutton: Lebanon crisis upends Eid tradition

  • It is customary for the better-off to donate cuts of mutton to needy members of their community as a form of religious charity during the holiday
  • That might not happen this year in Lebanon, as the country is now mired in its worst economic crisis since the 1975-1990 civil war

TRIPOLI, Lebanon: Tradition dictates that Muslims donate cuts of mutton during Friday’s Eid Al-Adha festival, which would spell brisk business for butcher Abdulrazak Darwish but Lebanon’s economic crisis has cast a pall over his trade.
“This year has been the worst for us because of soaring inflation,” said the 54-year-old resident of the northern city of Tripoli.
“There is no demand for meat or requests from clients to slaughter sheep this Eid Al-Adha,” he told AFP from inside his nearly empty store near the city’s port.
Thousands of sheep are usually slaughtered annually in Lebanon at Eid Al-Adha — the festival of sacrifice — one of two major holy days observed by Muslims across the world.
It is custom for the better-off to donate cuts of mutton to needy members of their community as a form of religious charity during the holiday.
But that might not happen this year, as the country is now mired in its worst economic crisis since the 1975-1990 civil war.
The Lebanese pound has in past months lost around 80 percent of its value against the dollar on the black market.
In a country where most consumer goods are imported, that devaluation has had a huge impact on prices and the purchasing power of ordinary Lebanese.
In Darwish’s butcher shop, one lonely cut of mutton hangs from a hook. Fridges next to it are completely empty.
For the vast majority of people whose income is not in dollars, the cost of a sheep has more than tripled since last year.
Darwish says the price he pays his suppliers is already prohibitive and leaves him with “no margin to make a profit.”
Tripoli already harbored some of the country’s poorest but the combined effect of the monetary crisis and coronavirus lockdowns is sentencing thousands of families to hunger.
This has upset Eid Al-Adha mutton donations, said Sheikh Nabil Rahim, who connects wealthy families with the needy during the Islamic holiday.
“Donations have severely dwindled by more than 80 percent which means no mutton this Eid Al-Adha,” he told AFP from his office, a stack of religious textbooks piled on his desk.
“A big segment of the Lebanese population are now preoccupied with themselves and their personal problems as a result of the economic crisis,” explained the man who runs an Islamic radio station.
Sitting on a chair outside her Tripoli apartment, Mona Al-Masri said she is preparing for a frugal Eid Al-Adha this year because of the downturn.
“Our priorities have changed,” said the 51-year-old, explaining she is not planning to buy any meat for the feast, which usually abounds with lamb and mutton.
Instead, she will prepare dishes using lentils, vegetables and herbs, she told AFP, explaining she usually relies on donations for mutton.
“This year it seems no one is planning to distribute anything,” she said.
Eid Al-Adha will still be celebrated this year even though many mosques will not hold public prayers and travel restrictions will limit annual Hajj pilgrimages and traditional family gatherings for the holiday.
Butchers have faced further complication due to power outages that have increased as state failure worsens.
“We can’t buy large quantities of meat, not even during the holidays,” said Ali Hassan Khaled, a 50-year-old butcher in a low-income Tripoli neighborhood.
He said he usually slaughters at least 100 sheep for his customers during Eid Al-Adha, but this year he has only received 10 orders.
“This Eid Al-Adha, it seems, people won’t be eating meat and won’t receive their portion of mutton donations,” Khaled said, circled by several hanging carcasses.
Salima Hijazi, a 33-year-old Tripoli resident, is one of them.
The woman usually prepares stuffed vine leaves with mutton for the feast — a staple holiday dish. But this year, mutton is no longer on the menu.
“Our incomes are nearly worthless... and we are now forced to change our eating habits,” she said.


Turkiye applies to have doner kebab protected under EU law

Updated 05 May 2024
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Turkiye applies to have doner kebab protected under EU law

  • Meat-based dish could join the likes of Champagne, Serrano ham if approved
  • Bloc can apply protections based on heritage value, ingredients, method of production

LONDON: Turkiye has applied to have the doner kebab protected under EU law, Metro newspaper reported.

The bloc famously enforces strict regulations on certain foods — including French Champagne, Spanish Serrano ham and Neapolitan pizza — in order to safeguard their production and preserve regional culinary heritage.

Issues including the sourcing of ingredients, method and place of production all go into determining what can and cannot be labeled as a protected food, with harsh penalties for those found to be profiting from items deemed not to match the legal criteria.

The doner kebab will undergo a three-month evaluation process to determine whether it too will join the exclusive list of dishes and foodstuffs.

During the process, other countries will be permitted to challenge the application over similarities to their own products, as happened in 2021 when Italy voiced opposition to the Croatian sparkling wine Prosek receiving protected status due to its apparent similarities to Prosecco.

Traditionally formed of meat marinated in salt, pepper, a number of other herbs and spices as well as tomato puree and yoghurt, the doner kebab can contain beef, lamb or chicken.

It is placed on a skewer and rotated against a fire, with thin strips sliced off and served in a flatbread or pitta with lettuce, tomato and onion.

Beef and lamb slices should be 3-5 mm in thickness, while chicken should be thinner at 1-3 mm per slice.

The dish is believed to be worth around $3.6 million annually to Europe’s economy, according to the Association of Turkish Doner Producers.


Where We Are Going Today: Sawada cafe in Riyadh

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Updated 04 May 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Sawada cafe in Riyadh

Sawada cafe is located in a plaza overlooking Olaya Street, Riyadh, making it an ideal getaway from the bustle of the city.

The coffee shop offers specialty coffees and desserts, but what sets it apart is its ambiance, with a bohemian-influenced interior design style, soft lighting, and decorative wheat plants lining the walls of the seating area.

Eclectic paintings from Saudi artists are displayed on the walls, providing an artistic touch.

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Sawada is ideal for those looking for a quiet and calm spot to relax with friends. It is also good for studying or working — if you can ignore the light, ambient music playing in the background.

Various seating areas are available, including booths bordering the walls and benches overlooking the barista area. A designated smoking area with seating is well separated from nonsmokers sitting indoors.  

Customers can also grab their coffees and head to the outdoor seating area or take a walk on the path outside the cafe.

With so many coffee shops and cafes opening in Riyadh, it can be difficult finding authenticity when it comes to coffee beans. But Sawada’s quality is revealed in its V60 drink, a pour-over coffee that highlights the subtle and smooth flavors of the beans.

The menu is standard, with many local favorites, including Spanish latte, flat white, cortado, cappuccino, and tea. Iced tea, an ideal thirst quencher in Riyadh’s summer heat, is also available.

Sawada offers a variety of desserts that can be paired with coffee, including pecan tart, classic date cake, croissants, sweet bars made out of dates, and toffee crumble.

Our recommended options are the chocolate cookies, the classic cheesecake, and the San Sebastian cake. A Snickers and Ferrero Rocher cake also looked appetizing.

We tried the matcha, but the large amount of milk overpowered the flavors of the tea. We recommend trying the signature or Spanish latte instead.

For updates and more information, check Instagram @sawada.ksa.

 


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Jon & Vinny’s restaurant in Riyadh

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Updated 03 May 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Jon & Vinny’s restaurant in Riyadh

  • The atmosphere and decoration of the restaurant are standard, with wooden bench-style seating and walls decorated using pizza boxes

Los Angeles-based Italian restaurant Jon & Vinny’s has opened a location in Riyadh serving pizza, pasta, desserts and coffee.

Located in Al-Sulimaniyah, the Italian restaurant has four locations in the US, all in California: Fairfax, Brentwood, Slauson and Beverly Hills.

The Riyadh restaurant features a more casual laid-back dining experience as opposed to other Italian restaurants in the Saudi capital that offer a more refined dining atmosphere.

If you are looking for a luxury restaurant for a quiet date night, this is not the best option, but if you are searching for a trendy hang-out spot, Jon & Vinny’s is suitable for you.

The atmosphere and decoration of the restaurant are standard, with wooden bench-style seating and walls decorated using pizza boxes.

The restaurant founders, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, attended the grand opening in Riyadh on April 17, saying that their mission is to offer authentic food that captures traditional Italian flavors.

The prices on the menu are average, with dishes ranging from SR65-75 ($17-20).

The menu offers a wide variety of pizzas, from “The Rosy,” a tomato and olive oil pizza with parmesan, to the “The Lola,” with fresh burrata, tomato, basil olive oil and a dash of sea salt.

One thing to note is that the pizza is quite authentic compared to other options in the city. The pizza crust is crispy, light and airy, allowing the freshness of the tomatoes and herbs to shine through.

Unlike other Italian restaurants, Jon and Vinny’s also offers different options for crust dips, such as ranch, garlic, buffalo, creamy Italian, pomodoro and olive oil.

In terms of drinks, the options on the menu include juices, soft drinks and caffeinated beverages such as americanos, cappuccinos and other coffee.

You may try the house-made lemonade, which is refreshing but a bit on the sour side. It is definitely great for guests looking for something tangy and refreshing for the Saudi summer heat.

For pasta options, you can try the pesto pasta, known on the menu as the pesto parmigiano oregano. The pasta is perfectly cooked al dente and the sauce is tasty but nothing new or innovative.

The lemon pasta and the spicy fusilli are the two highlight dishes of the restaurant.

When it comes to meat, there are limited choices on the menu. You may try the braised meatballs with ricotta and garlic bread.

The meatballs are very flavorful and seasoned well, with the flavors of the spices in the meatballs complimenting the simple and fresh red sauce.

The garlic bread which is offered with the meatballs is a bit on the charred side.

Another notable option on the menu is the Caesar salad with cheese sticks.

The freshness and quality of the ingredients shine through in the simple dishes.

The restaurant is very trendy and social-media friendly. The wall of Jon and Vinny’s pizza boxes is the perfect backdrop for photos.

Although the restaurant is small, it does offer an open-style kitchen where guests can approach the kitchen area and see the chefs cooking each meal.

For dessert, the restaurant offers a variety of sweets, including cheesecake and chocolate cake.

You will find the staff incredibly friendly.

Jon & Vinny’s offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is open from 8 a.m. to midnight.

 

 


Renowned London restaurant and Emirati fashion label launch t-shirt collection

Updated 02 May 2024
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Renowned London restaurant and Emirati fashion label launch t-shirt collection

DUBAI: Acclaimed Persian restaurant Berenjak Dubai, hailing from London, has joined forces with Shabab Intl. to launch a range of stylish t-shirts.

In sleek black, the t-shirts – now on sale at the restaurant – feature a Berenjak-inspired print on the back. The logos of both the restaurant and Shabab Intl. are depicted on the front.

Images for the launch campaign were shot by Dubai creative Cheb Moha, who leads the fashion label.

Moha’s t-shirt designs aimed for simplicity and clarity. (Supplied)

“We’re thrilled to be at Berenjak,” he told Arab News. “Personally, I am a huge fan and make it a point to dine there at least once especially when I’m in London.” 

Moha’s deep appreciation for Berenjak stems from an enduring passion for Persian cuisine and cultural heritage, he said. 

“Having Shabab there is particularly special for us, and I am confident that it will open doors for more collaborations. With our Shabab community present, it is exciting for them to witness this crossover between our origins and the spaces we inhabit at the restaurant. We are thrilled to stand alongside Berenjak and to have Shabab represented there.”

Moha added his t-shirt designs aimed for simplicity and clarity.

Moha also feels there is a crossover between fashion and food. (Supplied)

“I wanted to incorporate our identity with Berenjak’s identity and the identity of (the) city we are in, which is Dubai,” he said.

“If you notice, the graphic on the back of the t-shirt is sort of sun shaped. That is part of the Shabab spirit, the sunrise. And if you look in the windows, Berenjak also has a sun motif in the glass. I wanted to incorporate that and feel like there is a nice synergy between both brands.”

Moha also feels there is a crossover between fashion and food. “I feel like there’s always been a pipeline between both. They do complement each other in some way,” he said. 

Berenjak, founded by chef Kian Samyani and award-winning London restaurant group JKS Restaurants, is a renowned Persian restaurant that has made its mark by bringing a contemporary twist to classic dishes.


Where We Are Going Today: Kaak Al-Farah

Updated 02 May 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Kaak Al-Farah

Kaak Al-Farah — which translates as “the cookie of joy” — is an Instagram shop that offers kaak, a traditional date-filled treat enjoyed in Saudi Arabia and other Middle Eastern countries.

A cherished part of celebrations such as Eid Al-Fitr, Eid Al-Adha, weddings and baby showers, kaak are similar to maamoul cookies, which include semolina.

Kaak Al-Farah makes each cookie with care, using ornate molds to shape the date-stuffed dough. After baking, the cookies are packed in a beautiful reusable box.

Made from locally sourced ingredients, including wheat, dates and traditional Saudi flavors such as cardamom and cloves, each bite is a celebration of the region’s rich culinary heritage.

What makes Kaak Al-Farah stand out is not just the delightful taste of the cookies but also the thoughtful packaging which reflects the essence of Saudi culture.

The round box features designs redolent of the joyful spirit found in Saudi communities, including a cheerful ring of colorful flowers symbolizing happiness and beauty and a portrait of a lady representing peace and love. Added to each box is a personalized greeting card.

Kaak Al-Farah delivers to various cities throughout the Kingdom and can be found on delivery apps including The Chefz and Hayak.

For more information, visit their Instagram profile — @kaak.alfarah.