A deadly delicacy? Coronavirus stirs a debate over exotic Asian food

A worker in a protective suit is seen at the closed seafood market in Wuhan, Hubei province, China January 10, 2020. (REUTERS photo)
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Updated 14 April 2020
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A deadly delicacy? Coronavirus stirs a debate over exotic Asian food

DUBAI: The seafood market at the center of the coronavirus pandemic is back in the news after China’s controversial lifting of a lockdown on so-called wet markets in Wuhan.

The market had been shut in January amid fears that the coronavirus wreaking global havoc originated among wild animals on sale there, with the Wall Street Journal identifying a local shrimp peddler as “patient zero.”

The likely connection has piqued the curiosity of people around the world about dishes that fall outside the range of what is considered a regular menu item.

Presumably for the same reason, there has been a sharp spike in social media interest in the full gamut of Chinese cuisine as well as online searches for images of wet markets.

Since it first appeared in Wuhan, capital of Hubei province, late last year, SARS-CoV-2 has killed more than 100,000 people worldwide and forced dozens of countries to enforce lockdowns.

The virus almost certainly originated in bats, before it started infecting humans via an intermediary species.

That species could well be pangolin, a type of endangered ant-eater whose scales are used in traditional medicine and whose meat is considered a delicacy in China.

A misconception is that wet markets, which sell fresh produce and live animals in the open air, are particular to China alone.

In fact, markets that sell animals such as bats, pangolins and dogs for a range of purposes, but primarily as food, are spread across Southeast Asia.

At a time when more types of diet exist than ever before, opinion on what is healthy or tasty varies from country to country and culture to culture.

The bat, for instance, is a delicacy in China, Indonesia, Thailand, Guam and parts of Papua New Guinea.

Much like preparing a bat soup, boiling a snake or cooking dog meat is unthinkable in Middle Eastern and Western societies.

Yet snake meat tops the list of unusual food in Vietnam and Cambodia, while dog meat is a delicacy in parts of South Korea, Vietnam, China and northeast India.

Even Thailand, otherwise famous for its curry noodle dishes, has a reputation for unusual street food.

An assortment of fried bugs can be found at food markets across the country. Locals enjoy eating them as a snack, often with alcohol.

A Dubai chef who specializes in Thai food says insects are a popular item in the Southeast Asian country’s cuisine, as well as a rich source of calcium.

“In Thailand it’s not uncommon to eat grilled or boiled snake, deep-fried insects such as cockroaches and silk worms, and rice field rats,” he told Arab News.

“These items are prepared in the same way that chicken or meat (from any other animal that is farmed for food) is cooked.”

Be it frog, mouse meat, duck blood soup or fertilized duck egg, when it comes to preparing non-vegetarian dishes in countries such as Vietnam and Korea, the cooking ingredients are similar, according to the chef, who spoke on condition of anonymity.

What fried insects are to Southeast Asia, the locust — a short-horned grasshopper species — is to parts of the Arabian Peninsula, notably Saudi Arabia.

The insect is known to make a crunchy snack and a nutrient-filled ingredient for some local communities, although others consider it too risky for human consumption.

Even Europe, famous for its sophisticated palates and the signature restaurant guide Michelin, is no stranger to exotic food.

The French are renowned for eating frogs’ legs and cooked edible land snails known as “escargots.”

Eating escargots is also common in neighboring Spain, where snails are considered a mouth-watering addition to the country’s staple dish paella.

In Scotland and Wales, as also in other parts of Europe, black pudding — made out of pork blood, fat, beef suet, oats and barley — is often served as part of a full breakfast.

The side dish is clearly not for the faint-hearted, to say nothing of vegetarians — or vegans, who do not eat meat, poultry, fish or any products derived from animals, including eggs, dairy products and gelatin.

Not long after Wuhan’s coronavirus outbreak morphed into a global pandemic, CNN aired footage showing snakes, porcupines, raccoon, deer and dogs kept inside cages at the now-notorious Huanan Seafood Wholesale Market.

Epidemiologists say wherever animals from different environments are kept close to each other, there exists the possibility of an outbreak.

And if such a market gets a large number of visitors every day, the risk of the virus jumping to humans rises sharply, say the experts.

Dr. Kavita Diddi, a specialist microbiologist at the UAE’s Prime Healthcare Group, said: “When researchers analyzed the genetic sequence of SARS-CoV-2, they found similarities with a coronavirus circulating in rhinolophus bats, also known as the horseshoe bat.

“Metagenomic sequencing also showed strong similarities between Malayan pangolin coronavirus and the receptor binding domain of SARS-CoV-2.”

So does that suggest a clear link between the sale of wild animals at the Wuhan market and the ongoing pandemic?

Diddi would only say that “improper care and handling of animals” plays a key role in developing diseases and facilitating their transmission.

The Dubai chef said given the importance of handling animals in a hygienic environment, the responsibility ultimately lies with humans.

In the case of open-air markets where a variety of animals are handled and displayed for days in less-than-hygienic environments, “even non-exotic animals like chickens can pose serious risks” for consumers, he said.

With the coronavirus pandemic taking a tragic toll, the chef added, the world cannot afford anything less than the highest standards of hygiene and safety in food handling.

 


Thailand heads to polls with voters demanding ‘real change’

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Thailand heads to polls with voters demanding ‘real change’

  • Millennials, Generation Z make up around 46.5 percent of Thailand’s eligible voters
  • Voters will also decide on whether to rewrite current military-backed constitution

BANGKOK: Thai voters will head to the polls on Sunday after cycling through three prime ministers in less than three years, with the three-way contest of major parties set to decide the leader of the Southeast Asian nation over the next four years.

For the first time in the country’s history, nearly 53 million eligible voters in the kingdom of 71 million people will choose 500 lawmakers and also decide whether to rewrite the constitution.

The snap election was called in December by Anutin Charnvirakul, Thailand’s third premier since the 2023 election, who dissolved the House of Representatives to preempt a looming no-confidence vote.

More than 5,000 candidates from 57 parties are registered to take part in the polls, which will directly elect 400 lawmakers based on constituencies, while 100 others will be chosen from “party list” nominees, who gain seats according to each party’s proportional share of the vote.

Together, they will constitute the 500 members of the House of Representatives who will select the prime minister.

“This election is a gamble on the future of Thailand. Over the past decade, I have never seen the country move backward as much as it has,” Lawan Sarovat, a 60-year-old resident of Bangkok, told Arab News.

Thailand has been struggling with prolonged political uncertainty and a series of challenges, including an economy stuck at about 2 percent growth for the past five years and a border conflict with Cambodia last year that killed more than 100 people and cost at least $436 million.

“We want to see change. We had hoped that the previous election would bring about real change, but that did not happen. This time, people must try to make their voices heard in every possible way,” Sarovat said.

Main contenders

Sunday’s vote pits incumbent Prime Minister Charnvirakul’s Bhumjaithai party, which is backed by Thailand’s royalist conservative establishment, with the progressive youth-led People’s Party and Pheu Thai, a once-dominant party associated with now-jailed former premier Thaksin Shinawatra.

A nationwide survey by the National Institute of Development Administration put People’s Party leader Natthaphong Ruengpanyawut in first place for prime minister at over 29 percent, followed by Anutin at more than 22 percent.

The People’s Party was also a leading choice in terms of party preference, chosen by more than 33.5 percent of the January survey’s 2,500 respondents, while Bhumjaithai and Pheu Thai came second and third with about 22.7 percent and 16.9 percent, respectively.

The People’s Party is the successor to the group that won the last election — Move Forward — but was blocked from power, despite winning the greatest number of seats in the House of Representatives with the support of 14 million Thais.

It was eventually dissolved by the Constitutional Court over its proposals to revise the country’s strict royal insult laws.

“Elections in Thailand are not simply about citizens voting to choose a government. They are surrounded by multiple factors,” Thai senator Tewarit Maneechai told Arab News.

Even after securing popular support, Thai political parties must gain acceptance from a network of independent bodies established under the current constitution, including the Senate, the Constitutional Court, and the National Anti-Corruption Commission.

These institutions, Maneechai said, continue to function as mechanisms of the old power structure that has dominated Thailand’s political direction since the 2014 military coup.

Under this system, even an elected government can be removed from office at any time. Maneechai pointed to the case of Paetongtarn Shinawatra, ex-premier from the Pheu Thai Party, who was removed from office in August 2025 following a ruling by the Constitutional Court — a decision that raised public concerns over the expanding authority of independent agencies.

“There are surrounding factors that determine whether a government can actually be formed. Political parties that are able to govern are those that operate within the rules designed by the group that came to power through the coup,” Maneechai said.

Constitutional referendum

On Sunday, voters will also decide if a new constitution should replace a military-backed 2017 charter.

The ballot will simply ask voters if they “approve that there should be a new constitution,” with options of “Yes,” “No,” or “No opinion.”

The referendum needs more than 17 million votes in favor to become “a mandate that the entire country must heed,” Maneechai said.

“The referendum matters because even if a party wins the election, its ability to remain in power ultimately depends on independent mechanisms under the current constitution, which have the authority to remove a prime minister and destabilize a government.”

Though a majority “Yes” would kickstart a multi-stage drafting process, it will require two more referendums before a new charter could be adopted.

Change vs. status quo

Jamza Jongkham is among many Thai voters hoping that the election will lead to a constitutional reform.

“Right now, Thai politics is operating under rules controlled by an authoritarian camp that dominates the entire system, overriding political parties elected by the people,” he told Arab News.

The 27-year-old said what happened to the Move Forward party in 2023 was “fundamentally unfair,” and despite anger at how powerful politicians misuse power, he still has hopes in the younger generation.

Together, millennials and Generation Z make up around 46.5 percent of Thailand’s eligible voters.

“I still believe that people’s voices matter. If we choose to remain silent and do not exercise our right to vote, I believe Thailand will only become worse. There are still many people who want to see this country move in a better direction,” he said.

“If we can change the system so that everyone can participate in politics on an equal footing, I believe Thailand would become a far more just society.”

Puangthong Pawakapan, a political scientist at Chulalongkorn University, said Sunday’s vote is unlikely to serve as a decisive turning point in Thai politics, but rather reflect “an increasingly intense political struggle” between the public and entrenched power structures.

“This election has divided both those in power and the public into two clear sides — those who want change and those who want to preserve the status quo,” she told Arab News.

“Today, the public clearly sees that Thailand’s political and economic problems are rooted in an old power structure that is extremely difficult to change.”