Rami Al-Ali reimagines the orchid for Spring 2020 in Paris presentation

Dubai-based Syrian designer Rami Al-Ali unveiled his latest collection in Paris this week. (Supplied)
Short Url
Updated 22 January 2020
Follow

Rami Al-Ali reimagines the orchid for Spring 2020 in Paris presentation

  • This season, the designer unveiled otherworldly gowns that fused together romantic details, such as lashings of beads and tulle

PARIS: Dubai-based Syrian designer Rami Al-Ali decided to return to Paris to present his couture offering for his eponymous womenswear label at the Salon Pompadour in Hotel Le Meurice this week.




(Supplied)

Last season, the designer unveiled otherworldly gowns that fused together romantic details, such as lashings of beads and tulle, that went on to clothe the likes of actresses Dorra Zarrouk and Eva Longoria. His Spring 2020 collection is no different.




(Supplied)

Wildflowers, more specifically the orchid, served as the main inspiration for the 22-piece offering, appearing in embroidery and appliques. Rather than keep the references subtle, Al-Ali opted for bolder, more obvious interpretations of the colorful and fragrant flower. 




(Supplied)

Floral-inspired motifs came in multiple varieties at his presentation, including in the form of clusters of beads that evoked droplets of dew on a petal and laser cut fabric arranged in a tessellated pattern to portray a beautiful bloom. A red pleated gown adorned with flower appliques throughout turned one of the models into something of a bouquet for the presentation. 




(Supplied)

Structured jumpsuits in light-reflecting materials came in a range of shades — from sharp lime green with bronze detailing to dusty pink with oversized, floral-like embellishments on the bodice. Aquamarine blue and fuchsia also made appearances in the new line, with an array of floor-grazing gowns showing off the designer’s know-how. From floaty tulle to Disney-style ballgowns with wide, structured skirts, Al-Ali’s mastery of his craft was well and truly on display.




(Supplied)

To further capture the mood of spring, models posed with eyes encircled in pink frames, courtesy of makeup artists from MAC Cosmetics. The color palette included cheerful hues of aquamarine, coral, ruby and lime.

You can imagine an A-list star like Beyonce, who routinely dons Al-Ali’s designs, gliding down the red carpet in any number of the extravagant pieces that went on show in Paris this week. 


Hear them out: The best Arab alternative albums of 2025 

Updated 25 December 2025
Follow

Hear them out: The best Arab alternative albums of 2025 

  • Bojan Preradovic’s pick of records released by indie artists from the Arab world this year 

Saint Levant 

‘Love Letters’ 

With his sophomore LP, the Palestinian artist matures from viral breakout to more vulnerable, multilingual pop and R&B, shaping a compact set of love songs with a firmly Palestinian center. He braids sleek synths, North African grooves, and earworm melodies into pieces that drift between late-night infatuation and clear-eyed reflections on home, distance, and belonging. “DALOONA,” a collaboration with Shamstep pioneers 47Soul, and “KALAMANTINA,” featuring Egyptian rap star Marwan Moussa, both lean into joyful release, while “EXILE” sits with the emotional cost of separation and absence. “Love Letters” threads romance, memory, and identity into understated, exceedingly replayable art. 

 

Zeyne 

‘Awda’ 

Rising Palestinian-Jordanian star Zeyne uses her debut LP to alchemize the last few years of upheaval and her meteoric ascent into a 13-track map of who she is and where she comes from. Folding contemporary R&B and pop into playful rhythms, dabke pulses, and Arabic melodic turns, she sings of home, pressure, and stubborn hope on tracks that feel both diaristic and cinematic. The record shifts between tenderness, unease, and quiet celebration, while guest appearances from Saint Levant and Bayou mix perfectly with the record’s unique flavors rather than overpowering them. This is an exhilarating, soul-searching foray into Arabic alt-pop that treats vulnerability and pride as two sides of the same coin. 

 

Yasmine Hamdan 

‘I remember I forget’  

A quietly piercing LP from the indie icon about what we choose to carry and what we try to erase. Recorded with her trusted musical confidant Marc Collin, the album folds muted electronics, trip-hop beats, oud, and Arabic strings into songs in which personal memory, folk echoes, and her country’s never-ending tumult blur into one. Album closer “Reminiscence” lets the record fade like a long-held breath, reminding us that Hamdan is still one of the few artists capable of molding private anxieties into a shared, luminous language.  

 

Kazdoura

 ‘Ghoyoum’ 

The Toronto-based duo’s debut weaves a story of migration and fracture into a quietly dazzling Arabic fusion record. Vocalist Leen Hamo and multi-instrumentalist John Abou Chacra root everything in Levantine maqams, then let the songs drift toward jazz, psychedelia, and dream pop without ever losing sight of the tarab they grew up on. From the yearning of opener “Marhaba Ahlen” and the fiery feminist chant of “Ya Banat” to the reworked folk of “Hmool El Safar” and the woozy sway of “Khayal” and “Titi Titi,” they sculpt homesickness, resilience, and slow healing into something genuinely transformative. 

 

Tamara Qaddoumi  

‘The Murmur’ 

On her first full-length album, Tamara Qaddoumi stretches the trip-hop and shadowy pop universe she explored on 2021’s EP “Soft Glitch” into a deeper, intensely moving world. Written with longtime collaborator Antonio Hajj, and produced by indie mainstay Fadi Tabbal, “The Murmer” leans on low-end throb, smoldering synths, and incisive guitar lines that feel both intimate and vast. Her voice hovers between confession and spell, circling questions of identity, grief, and attachment that evoke her own hybrid Kuwaiti, Palestinian, Lebanese, and Scottish heritage. The result is a delightfully cobwebby, absorbing LP that lingers long after it ends. 

 

Sanam 

‘Sametou Sawtan’ 

Recorded between Beirut, Byblos, and Paris, “Sametou Sawtan” – Arabic for “I heard a voice” – is a poignant, unsettled collision of noise rock, free jazz, and Arabic folk that fizzes with tension. Produced by Radwan Ghazi Moumneh, the eight tracks by the art-rock sextet are anchored by Sandy Chamoun’s remarkable vocals, which move from murmured prayer to visceral intensity, drawing on classical Arabic poetry and prose and her own lyrics to inhabit figures who are bewildered, grieving, or stubbornly alive. From the opening surge of “Harik” to the slow burn of “Hamam,” Sanam distill personal and collective unease into work that’s urgent, physical, and impossible to ignore. This is an act on the precipice of wider, global renown.  


Nabeel 

 

‘Ghayoom’  

On “Ghayoom,” the Iraqi-American songwriter — real name Yasir Razak — firmly plants the flag of an audacious musical explorer venturing across roads less traveled. He sings in Arabic over a wall of distorted guitars and slowcore drums, enveloped by captivating, shoegaze-colored soundscapes. The artwork, built from worn family photographs, hints at what the music is chasing. These eight tracks pair devotional tenderness with the grit of DIY rock. Opener “Resala” aches with unsent words; “Khatil” hits with uneasy momentum; while the elegant flicker of pop-tinged moments scattered throughout the album maintain a raw and bruised edge.  

 

Malakat 

Al Anhar Wal Oyoon 

On its first showcase, Jordan-based label Malakat gathers seven Arab woman artists and enables them to pull in seven different directions that end up flowing as a single current. “Al Anhar Wal Oyoon” (‘The Rivers and the Springs’), moves from Intibint’s hauntingly inspired vocalization to Liliane Chlela’s serrated electronics, and from Sukkar and DAL!A’s skewed pop to Sandy Chamoun’s voice-led piece, and Bint Mbareh’s closing track, developed in dialogue with visionary producer Nicolas Jaar. Mixed across Amman, the UK, and New York, and mastered by the highly-sought-after Heba Kadry, this is a deeply textured statement of intent from a label quietly redrawing the map of experimental Arab music.