Call to ban foreign cooks in Malaysia elicits mixed reactions

A chef cooks chicken rendang at a restaurant in Cyberjaya, Malaysia. The country’s Human Resource Minister M. Kulasegaran called for foreign cooks to be banned from the country. (Reuters)
Updated 25 June 2018
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Call to ban foreign cooks in Malaysia elicits mixed reactions

  • The government has rowed back from Human Resource Minister M. Kulasegaran’s call saying it was “merely a suggestion,” and it will “consult various stakeholders.”
  • Some 250,000 foreign workers are employed in service industries in Malaysia, including restaurants, hawker stalls and cafes.

KUALA LUMPUR: There are mixed reactions from restaurant and food stall owners across Malaysia to a call by Human Resource Minister M. Kulasegaran to ban foreign cooks by Jan. 1, 2019.

The government has since changed its tone, on Saturday saying the call was “merely a suggestion,” and it will “consult various stakeholders.”

Some 250,000 foreign workers are employed in service industries in Malaysia, including restaurants, hawker stalls and cafes.

Kulasegaran’s call came amid government attempts to reduce the number of foreign workers in the country.

Adrian Pereira, director of the North South Initiative, a non-profit that promotes the rights of migrant workers in Malaysia, wants the government to engage with all stakeholders to ensure rights-based approaches that are backed by market data.

“We mustn’t forget that there’s a huge informal sector that also hires migrants as cooks,” he said.

“We can’t assign nationality to the work. Once we go down this road, in future work will also discriminate against color, religion etc.”

Suhaila owns a food stall that serves local Malay dishes. She hires only Indonesian cooks, who have been working for her family’s stall for more than a decade.

“They already know how to cook the local dishes, and the food tastes good. There’s no difference,” Suhaila told Arab News, adding that she does not mind employing Malaysians as waiters, but not the cooks as they are her “main source of income.”

She disagrees with Kulasegaran’s call, saying not all local cooks can cook local dishes. She said she once hired a local cook, but the dishes were not as tasty as those made by her Indonesian cooks.

Hamid Khalid, owner of the restaurant Nasi Kandar Arraaziq, agrees with a ban, telling Arab News that he does not hire foreign cooks because customers prefer to eat food made by Malaysians.

But Khalid, whose waiters are mostly foreign, complimented foreign workers for their hard work and low labor cost.

Alex Lee owns the Smokehouse Restaurant, which serves mainly British food. He employs mostly Malaysian cooks, and one foreigner who works as a sous chef.

“From a protectionist and job-security point of view, I think it (a ban) is idiotic,” Lee told Arab News, adding that most food business owners constantly face a shortage of workers.

It is the responsibility of restaurant owners, not the government, to preserve local food’s authenticity, said Lee, cautioning the government against “short-sighted, faux-populist” policies.


Where We Are Going Today: Tofareya Restaurant in Jeddah and AlUla

Miro Kebab. (Supplied)
Updated 07 March 2026
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Where We Are Going Today: Tofareya Restaurant in Jeddah and AlUla

  • The red groats delivered pure comfort; It is a Saudi staple for a reason, with chicken, tomato sauce, a special mix and ghee coming together in a rich, filling bowl

Tofareya is the kind of Saudi comfort-food spot that can satisfy a craving even as takeaway.

I ordered to-go from the Riyadh branch, and while not every dish traveled perfectly, the order had real highlights. The restaurant also has locations in Jeddah and AlUla, which makes it easy to return for the standouts.

The best bite was the Tawferee chicken samosa. The sambousek triangles arrived crisp, with a noticeably crunchy dough that held up well.

Inside, the chicken slices were boosted by a bright lime mixture that gave the filling a fresh, tangy finish.

The kubayba was another favorite. Shaped into neat squares like grape leaves, it was filled with rice and lifted by date syrup, adding a gentle sweetness that felt uniquely Saudi.

A couple of items were less memorable. The hummus and kibbeh were fine, but they tasted basic compared with the stronger dishes.

The mains carried the meal. Beef kabli was deeply satisfying, with spiced rice, meat, potatoes and the orange note that defines kabli, finished with crispy fried onions.

The red groats delivered pure comfort; It is a Saudi staple for a reason, with chicken, tomato sauce, a special mix and ghee coming together in a rich, filling bowl.

The miro kebab is worth ordering, and the limitation here is takeaway, not the kitchen. This Makkah-style kebab comes with tahini, hamar, bread and a steamed egg salad, and it is built around contrast.

Fresh, it should feel layered and dynamic, with warm meat, creamy tahini and bread that still maintains its structural integrity.

In a to-go box, the components soften and merge, so you lose some of the intended texture and definition. Try to eat it immediately after pickup if you can, but ideally, save it for dine-in.

The mulukhiah fattah also needed more intensity. The Hijazi-inspired layering of bread, molokhiya, tomato sauce and chicken worked in concept, but the overall seasoning could have been bolder to bring the dish into focus.