Syrian refugees find hope in kitchen

US government-funded project for refugees in Turkey is called LIFE — Livelihoods Innovation through Food Entrepreneurship. (Supplied photo)
Updated 08 June 2018
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Syrian refugees find hope in kitchen

  • Falafel and hummus are helping displaced families get back on track after civil war derailed their lives
  • An estimated 3.5 million Syrian refugees live in Turkey after seven long years of civil war in their own country.

ISTANBUL: Ennam Alshayib wakes up every morning, grateful for her new life and renewed purpose. But memories of the last four years she has spent on the run from war-torn Syria still haunt her. 

First there was the arduous journey she took from Damascus with her family in tow, followed by their arrival in Egypt, desperate and tired. Then they went on to Dubai, before eventually reaching their new home in Turkey.

After a difficult start to her time here, the turning point came when she spotted a Facebook post from a US government-funded project for refugees in Turkey called LIFE — Livelihoods Innovation through Food Entrepreneurship.

She immediately applied to take part and was soon sitting in the LIFE office, inside a cozy four-story building in the middle of the main industrial zone of Istanbul.

An estimated 3.5 million Syrian refugees live in Turkey after seven long years of civil war in their own country. Many of them find it difficult to find regular employment, begging on the streets of Istanbul or living in squalid refugee camps.

LIFE, which was launched last September, aims to change that. It was started by a consortium of Turkish, Syrian and American partners who wanted to support refugees to earn a living through starting up restaurants and food businesses.

The two-year project is targeted at refugees in Gaziantep, near Turkey’s southern border with Syria, and Istanbul, with the goal of giving them greater independence and helping them integrate into Turkish society.

The project is to have a total of 1,240 direct beneficiaries, 75 percent of them Syrians, and at least half of them women. 

Participants are trained in various fields ranging from food marketing and hygiene, to e-commerce and packaging. 

At the end of the program, they publish their own cookbooks with recipes for Turkish, Syrian and other Middle Eastern dishes, as well as stories about the origins of each dish. Participants come from varying backgrounds, bringing with them different skills and experiences. 

“I graduated from university with a degree in pre-school education,” Alshayib told Arab News. “But I have always found the food industry attractive and have experience cooking for big events at the company my husband was working for in Damascus.”

Before joining the LIFE program, Alshayib was selling traditional Syrian foods, such as hummus and falafel, at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. She hopes to set up her own Syrian restaurant in Turkey after graduating from the program.

Another participant, 48-year-old Jordanian Rabeia Alsheshany, also dreams of running her own business.

“I’m now in the middle of Europe and it’s become my home country. My daughter studies at university here and I would prefer to stay here for the rest of my life,” she said.

Each trainee is assigned a mentor. The program culminates in a competition during which the trainees will pitch their business plans to a panel of judges. The two most innovative will be chosen to receive financial support.

Ali Ercan Ozgur, is president of International Development Management, a Turkish civil society organization and one of the sponsors of LIFE. 

“The most important role of this project will be to support the skills that will help (refugees) have a sustainable livelihood,” he said. He described food as a “common language” that can help unite the people of Turkey and Syria.


Where We Are Going Today: Cocina La Cantina

Updated 15 February 2026
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Where We Are Going Today: Cocina La Cantina

Mexican restaurant Cocina La Cantina — on Sari Road in Jeddah’s Al-Zahra district — offers a menu focused on traditional flavors with contemporary twists.

I started with three salads, including maiz del fuego and verde brasa. The charred corn and kale were well prepared, and the dressings reflected traditional Mexican flavors.

The seafood dishes — lamica roja and aguachile de camaron — were fresh and retained their natural texture and taste. Guacamole served with crispy plantain provided a simple balance to the spiced dishes. 

The tostadas, especially the salmon and smoked crab versions, were well executed, with each ingredient distinct and flavors authentic. The menu offers a variety of options.

I also tried the birria quesadilla, featuring slow-cooked beef with Oaxacan-style cheese in a blue corn tortilla, and the ribotes — charred corn ribs topped with cotija, lime, tajín, and smoky morita mayo. Totopos with guacamole and pico de gallo completed my round of starters. 

For mains, I had pollo enmolado, with 48-hour marinated chicken in chintextle mole served with XO rice; pipian del mar, featuring salmon with molokhia pipian and macha oil; and carne asada suprema, a 24-hour marinated Wagyu 5+ striploin with guacamole and salsa verde.

The proteins were fresh and cooked to order, with sauces and marinades complementing the dishes as described.

The menu uses Mexican-style names but includes clear descriptions, and the staff are knowledgeable and happy to answer questions. For more information, visit @lacantina.ksa.