Pakistan’s qawwali music fights to be heard after singer’s death

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This file photo shows Pakistani performers singing Qawwali at a shrine in Islamabad on Feb. 5, 2018. (AFP)
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In this file photo, Pakistani Qawwali singers Azmat Sabri, left, and his brother Talha Sabri, right, perform with their group during an event in Karachi on Jan. 19, 2018. (AFP)
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This file photo shows Pakistani devotees enjoying a Qawwali performance at a shrine in Islamabad on Feb. 5, 2018. (AFP)
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This file photo shows Pakistani devotees showering currency notes during a Qawwali performance at a shrine in Islamabad on Feb. 5, 2018. (AFP)
Updated 26 April 2018
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Pakistan’s qawwali music fights to be heard after singer’s death

  • Thousands poured into the streets near Sabri’s family home after his death for his funeral, a rare public display of affection in Karachi
  • His murder was just the latest in a series of blows in recent years to strike at the heart of qawwali, which has thrived in South Asia since the 13th century

KARACHI: Nearly two years after Pakistan’s foremost qawwali singer Amjad Sabri was gunned down in Karachi, the devotional music of Islam’s Sufi mystical sect is struggling to survive, as fears of sectarianism and modern pressures slowly drown out its powerfully hypnotic strains.
Thousands poured into the streets near Sabri’s family home after his death for his funeral, a rare public display of affection in Karachi.
“He was a rockstar of the masses,” explained journalist and musician Ali Raj, who studied under Sabri.
His murder was just the latest in a series of blows in recent years to strike at the heart of qawwali, which has thrived in South Asia since the 13th century.
“I am still in shock,” Sabri’s brother Talha told AFP from his family home adorned with pictures of his superstar sibling, whose fame spanned the subcontinent and beyond.
“Why do they hate qawwali? Why do they hate music?“




In this file photo, Pakistani Qawwali singer Talha Sabri speaks during an interview with AFP behind an image of his late father and renowned Qawwal Ghulam Farid Sabri at his residence in Karachi on Jan. 19, 2018. (AFP)


Embraced widely as a part of Pakistan’s national identity, qawwali has played a key unifying role, with city-dwellers and villagers flocking to Sufi shrines for concerts.
Performances traditionally last hours, with a troupe of musicians interweaving soulful improvisational threads under lyrical, lilting vocal lines to a steady beat of thundering rhythms on dholak and tabla drums and hand clapping, sending fans drifting into trance-like transcendent states.
The genre entered a golden age in the 1970s as singers known as qawwals battled for prestige, with the Sabri Brothers — led by Amjad’s father, Ghulam Farid Sabri — and Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan finding audiences around the world.
Following the death of Ghulam, Amjad took the helm and slowly carved out his place as Pakistan’s most prominent qawwal, becoming a fixture on national television and radio.
But now musicians worry that his murder — and the fear it sparked — has hastened the decline of qawwali.
At Cafe Noor in Karachi where qawwals have gathered for decades, musicians said business has been falling for years, with fewer shrines willing to host performances.
Sectarian militants have targeted Sufis, a mystical sect of Islam, for years — with the Taliban and increasingly the Daesh sending suicide bombers to attack shrines over what they see as heretical displays of faith.
Just months after Sabri was killed, Daesh claimed back-to-back attacks on shrines in the provinces of Balochistan and Sindh that killed more than 100 people combined.
Earlier this month, the military approved death sentences for two militants linked to Sabri’s killing.
But questions linger over who ordered the murder — the Pakistani Taliban, or another group — forcing his brother to spend months guarded by elite paramilitary rangers.
Such fears, meanwhile, are not the only factors triggering qawwali’s decline.
Inflationary pressures have also kept the qawwals’ working-class fanbase from hosting shows. Increasingly only the middle class or elite can afford to pay a qawwali group to perform at parties or weddings.
“In the good old times, even a poor man... would manage to organize qawwali,” explained singer Hashim Ali, saying he is now lucky to play four or five shows during religious periods compared to dozens in the past.
The rise of more globalized interpretations of Islam has similarly chipped away at qawwali’s popularity, as Muslims in Pakistan increasingly depart from the subcontinent’s syncretic religious traditions and look to the Middle East for guidance.
“People access... (qawwali music) as a part of their faith,” said Ahmer Naqvi, chief operations officer for Pakistani music app Patari.
“A lot of the younger population is abandoning the ways that the older generations worshipped.”
Increasing conservatism has also hit the genre.
Even before Karachi’s Abdullah Shah Ghazi Mazar shrine — famed for hosting performances — was attacked by the Taliban in 2010, organizers had imposed restrictions on shows for years as part of a campaign against qawwali’s hashish-smoking fans.
The pressure has compelled more qawwals to try their hand at fusion, or even branch into more financially viable genres such as pop. Only a minority have embraced social media to promote themselves, journalist Raj said.
But they face an uphill battle.
“The youth... they don’t know what exactly qawwali is,” said fan Muhammad Saeed, 24, citing the popularity of contemporary music at home and from abroad, during a private show in Islamabad.
After 16 years playing by his brother’s side, Talha Sabri said he has struggled to find his place on stage until Amjad’s own sons are old enough to perform.
“We are under pressure,” he said, with his long hair and neatly trimmed beard-cutting a stark resemblance to his brother.
But even as he fears the possibility of extremists striking again, he refuses to be cowed.
“Regardless of these threats, we have to keep on,” he said.




In this file photo, Asghari Begum, the wife of late renowned Qawwal singer Ghulam Farid Sabri, speaks during an interview with AFP at her residence in Karachi on Jan. 19, 2018. (AFP)


For Sabri’s mother Asghari Begum however, the murder of her son marked a turning point for qawwali, ringing the death knell for its future.
Her family previously made it through the tumultuous 1980s, when political parties and gangs battled for turf, turning Karachi’s streets into killing fields.
But they were respected then, passing unscathed through the city’s numerous pickets.
Amjad’s death proved things have changed.
“He has gone now,” she said. “And the passion of qawwali has gone with him.”


How young chefs and creators are transforming Arab street food across the Gulf

Updated 13 December 2025
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How young chefs and creators are transforming Arab street food across the Gulf

  • Pop-ups, concept kitchens, and fusion cafes in Riyadh, Dubai, and Manama are reshaping the region’s street-food scene
  • A new generation are merging traditional dishes with innovation, creating hybrid flavors for local and international audiences

DUBAI: What was once a landscape dominated by shawarma, manakish and other classics is now expanding into a hybrid space, shaped by multicultural influences, social media trends and a generation that grew up with global tastes but strong regional identities.

From Dubai’s weekend food trucks to Riyadh’s concept kitchens and Bahrain’s fusion cafes, Arab street food 2.0 is emerging as a movement where comfort dishes, global mashups and creator-driven recipes coexist.

Among the clearest examples of this shift is SmokinBarrel, founded by Abu Dhabi-based chef Marwan Charaf, whose slow-smoked meats and regionally inspired tacos have become a Gulf pop-up staple.

“SmokinBarrel started out of pure curiosity. I had a steel barrel in my garden and wanted to experiment with wood-fire cooking, and the rest is history,” he told Arab News.

SmokinBarrel, founded by Abu Dhabi-based chef Marwan Charaf, has won awards for its slow-smoked meats and regionally inspired tacos. (Supplied photos)

His cooking style remains instinctive. “I just tend to cook by feel, which lets me create flavors you won’t find anywhere else.”

Charaf’s upbringing in the UAE shaped his culinary identity, exposing him to a wide mix of cuisines and friendships that helped train his palate from an early age.

“Growing up in Abu Dhabi and being surrounded by an incredible mix of cuisines has also inspired me to blend my passion for slow-smoked meats with local tastes,” he said.

That same multicultural environment, he adds, “showed me how beautifully different spices (from) all over the world and cuisines can come together.”

SmokinBarrel is not strictly American or Mexican-style BBQ: “It’s a fusion of flavors inspired by my passion for food and my love for showcasing regional and local ingredients.”

A Saudi woman prepares a local sweet dish called Maseela at a Cultural and Heritage Festival in downtown Abha, Saudi Arabia, August 19, 2025. (REUTERS/File)

Over years of events and experimentation, SmokinBarrel became known for dishes that merge tradition with innovation — a style refined through continuous customer interaction.

Charaf says pop-ups have served as a creative testing ground for the brand over the past four years.

“They’ve let us experiment with regional flavors, from Aleppo-pepper honey to pickled Indian red onions with Lebanese grape vinegar and UAE date sugar, all showcased in our award-winning taco,” he said.

The pop-up model has built momentum across the region, with social media further amplifying the Arab street food movement.

One of the most popular attractions was the Heritage and Culinary Arts Zone, which quickly stood out for its dynamic setup showcasing the depth, character, and regional diversity of Saudi cuisine. (SPA)

Dozens of Gulf-based creators have turned home kitchens into micro-brands, producing fast-paced recipe videos that inspire everything from weeknight meals to viral food trends.

Platforms now function as culinary discovery engines, where creator-chefs shape tastes as directly as restaurants.

Palestinian cook Abu Julia — whose rise began during the 2020 pandemic lockdowns — has built one of the most recognizable Arab cooking platforms online, attracting millions with concise, comforting home-style recipes.

His content has introduced traditional Palestinian and Levantine dishes to global audiences, inspiring thousands to recreate the dishes at home.

The Saudi Feast Food Festival returned for its fifth edition at King Saud University in Riyadh, running from November 27 to December 6, 2025, and opened with strong momentum and a high turnout. (SPA)

Another example is Baraa El-Sabbagh, a registered dietitian and certified personal trainer, who has built a large following through practical nutrition guidance and simple, healthier recipe videos.

Based in the UAE, she focuses on helping women improve their relationship with food, train consistently and navigate nutrition during different life stages, including pregnancy and postpartum.

Her short, accessible cooking clips — often built around balanced meals, quick snacks and pantry-friendly ingredients — have made healthy eating feel achievable for everyday viewers, earning her a solid following.

Pastry chef Khulood Al-Ali has also gained recognition for modernizing Khaleeji desserts, reinterpreting staples like chebab and khabeesa with contemporary techniques and cafe-style presentation.

Saudi Arabia has its own leading voices, too. Dalia’s Kitchen, a widely followed home-cook creator, is known for easy recipe videos and modern takes on classic Saudi dishes.

Her content reflects the everyday flavors that Saudis crave, making her one of the most recognizable digital cooks shaping home-style food trends in the Kingdom today.

Saudi chef Hala Ayash is a Dubai-based cook known for her quick, family-friendly recipes that modernize Levantine and Gulf comfort dishes. 

Her daily meal videos have become a go-to resource for home cooks across the UAE and Saudi Arabia, making her a reliable source for easy, everyday recipes.

In Bahrain, a new generation of chefs and food creators is also shaping the region’s evolving street-food landscape.

One of the country’s most recognized voices is Tala Bashmi, the award-winning chef behind Fusions by Tala, known for reinterpreting Gulf dishes with modern techniques while preserving their traditional essence.

Alongside her, Foodie BH has become a widely followed guide to the country’s dining scene, regularly highlighting local street-food spots, fusion cafes and home-grown concepts contributing to Bahrain’s evolving food culture.

Boutique brands such as Cocoa Core also continue to introduce inventive sweets inspired by Khaleeji flavors, reflecting the Kingdom’s growing appetite for culinary experimentation.

As a result, many young diners now discover a dish online before ever encountering it in a restaurant, allowing digital platforms to influence the evolution of Arab street food as strongly as physical kitchens.

Beyond the Gulf, creators with Arab roots are also shaping food conversations for audiences across the region.

One example is Akram Cooks, a second-generation Yemeni-American based in New York City. He has more than 440,000 followers and has built a strong fan base in the Arab world by preserving Yemeni cuisine through short, engaging videos that highlight both traditional dishes and modern interpretations.

A similar impact comes from Ahmad Alzahabi, better known as The Golden Balance, a Syrian-American creator whose content blends Middle Eastern flavors with global cooking techniques.

His cross-cultural background — growing up in a Syrian household in Michigan — shapes videos that range from traditional staples to modern fusion dishes, appealing to young viewers who see their identities reflected in his style.

For UAE-based SmokinBarrel, Instagram and TikTok are also essential tools.

As Charaf explains: “Social media, especially Instagram, has been our main bridge to the community. It’s where we share new launches, pop-up announcements, and behind-the-scenes moments, but it’s also where we listen.

“The feedback, the comments, the DMs, they all help shape what we create next,” he said, adding that social media platforms help them stay connected to customers even between pop-ups and play an important role in how they continue to evolve dishes.

For Dubai-based restaurateur Salam El-Baba, founder of Dukkan El-Baba, Tacosita and Mashawi by Dukhan, social media is less central to how her restaurants evolve. While it plays a role in communicating with customers, it does not influence how she develops her food.

She describes Dukkan as: “Simply an extension of our home, our mum’s warmth … centered around the kitchen and memorable days with loving, filling dishes.”

Her second brand, Tacosita, emerged from “a passion project, an obsession, which was executed in every way it could be,” while Mashawi by Dukhan was “a commercial decision to give the UAE market what it wants — fresh, juicy Arabic grills and saucy sauces.”

However, launching and managing these concepts came with challenges.

“Coming into the industry with a blatant lack of operational experience and financial knowledge … was the biggest challenge,” she told Arab News. “Learning as we go, over three years, we now know how to deal.”

Across her brands, she adjusts the balance between tradition and creativity depending on the concept. At Dukkan, authenticity is central, while Mashawi requires more experimentation to build on the flavors and traditions it draws from.

For El-Baba, this new wave of Arab street food closely reflects the values behind her own concepts. She sees it as a generational shift led by young restaurateurs expressing their identity through food. 

“We are in the restaurant business because we enjoy providing warm hospitality and memorable experiences around food. This itself is rooted in Arabic culture, street food, and where we come from.”

As multiple voices across the region redefine what Arab street food can be, El-Baba describes her contribution to the movement as rooted in consistency and presence.

“This movement is simply a result of this generation doing things a little differently while honoring to the very end traditions, roots, and flavors we took from our parents,” she said.

“Exercising this, daily, coming to work, showing up and maintaining our operations, that is our contribution.”

Charaf sees this evolution as part of a larger shift.

“Arab street food is entering an exciting new era, one defined by creativity, quality, and a willingness to experiment,” he said. “It’s no longer just about quick bites; it’s becoming a platform for full-flavored, culturally grounded experiences.”