BEIRUT: The airstrike hit Syria’s Eastern Ghouta on Wednesday, three days into a massive bombardment. Soon afterward, rescuers pulled four children from the building, but their father was killed and they were now orphans.
A neighbor, Mohammed Abu Anas, helped to dig through the rubble and then ran for medical aid through battered alleyways with one of the children bleeding in his arms.
“There is fear and anguish among people here, there are hundreds of martyrs and injured,” he said.
The little boy dug from the rubble, blood trickling from cuts on his face, survived the attack. His sister, also alive, was slung over the shoulder of a rescue worker, her face and headscarf white from dust. Two other siblings also survived.
Their Santiha family had already been torn apart by bombing. Two years ago, the children’s mother was killed in their home in Jobar, a district where Eastern Ghouta meets Damascus.
Wednesday’s airstrike killed their father, Majid Santiha, and his body was carried away on a stretcher. Their uncle came to the medical center where they and the body of their father were taken. He will now raise them.
Nearly 400,000 people live under siege in Eastern Ghouta according to the UN, the danger from bombs compounded by shortages of food and medicine.
“We’ve barely eaten since yesterday. I ate rotten food. There are no goods left in the shops. We bought two small tins of cheese and we got seven flat rounds of bread today,” said Bilal Issa, 25.
The food is shared with his mother, his wife and his three siblings.
When the rockets started to fall right outside his home, Issa and his neighbors started to dig through the basement of their building to create a shelter.
They lifted the floor tiles to excavate a hole with spades in which grown men can now stand upright, pulling out the earth with buckets.
The airstrikes cause massive plumes of smoke that hang over the neighborhood. The sound of warplanes fills the sky.
“Whoever leaves his house or leaves the shelter can be considered dead,” said Issa.
Death is not always immediate. Omran Madani was injured by a barrel bomb that fell outside the family home in the village of Madira on Tuesday, said his father, who identified himself only as Abu Omran.
Omran died on Wednesday. His small body lay on a hospital bed wrapped neatly in a white shroud from neck to feet and his father cradled the boy’s motionless face in his hands.
He railed against Assad, the rebel groups who control Eastern Ghouta and the leaders of foreign countries involved in the war. “May they find their children dead and taste oppression,” he said. “May God take our revenge.”
Families broken by the carnage of Ghouta’s bombs
Families broken by the carnage of Ghouta’s bombs
Why Jordanians are flocking to Damascus as Syria reopens roads, skies and rails
- Tour buses, budget flights and reopened crossings signal renewed civilian travel between Jordan and postwar Syria
- Officials say mobility revival reflects deeper regional reintegration as Damascus sheds isolation and rebuilds tourism sector
DUBAI: Ask nearly any Jordanian over the age of 40 about Damascus and you are likely to be met with a nostalgic tale of days gone by when weekend trips to the old city were as common as those to the Dead Sea.
Such memories were confined to the pits of nostalgia by the onset of the Syrian civil war, which turned the once-famed journey into an ordeal of derelict rest stops, militia checkpoints, sudden closures and the possibility of violence.
However, over the last year, tour buses have reappeared on the centuries-old trade route. Private drivers are booking permits to take the road north and a new generation of Jordanian travelers, eager for regional rediscovery, are getting back on the road to Damascus.
Statistics released by Syria’s Ministry of Tourism show that Jordanians are by far the largest group of tourists represented in Syria, with 394,871 arrivals in 2025 alone — some 93 percent more than the previous year and eclipsing any other nation, including those with substantial Syrian populations like Turkiye and Germany.
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Jordanians who visited Syria in 2025, up 93% on the previous year, making them the country’s largest tourist group.
These figures represent “not only the reactivation of tourism flows, but a deeper strategic recovery extending beyond the economic domain,” Mazen Al-Salhani, Syria’s minister of tourism, said in a statement.
“It signals a transition to organized, civilian-driven mobility and a restored perception of Syria as a safe, attractive and culturally rich destination.”
Jordan and Syria share not only a border, but also centuries of cultural, familial and economic ties. The Nasib-Jaber crossing on the Damascus-Amman highway was one of the busiest gateways in the region before the civil war.
That crossing’s reactivation is symbolic of a wider lifting of barriers. While the border was closed intermittently in late 2024 amid renewed conflict, the crossing has now been revitalized, streamlining the process of getting permissions for vehicles and border patrol checks.
Hamzeh Battieh, executive manager of Sharif House Handcrafted Travel and Events, a tourism operator based in Damascus, told Arab News the crossing had become substantially easier to navigate, transforming from somewhere that was once quite hostile into something quite welcoming.
“Following the liberation of Syria, the situation at the crossing changed fundamentally for the better,” he said.
“The time required to complete entry or exit procedures no longer exceeds 10 minutes, whereas under the former regime it used to take many hours and involved widespread bribery and favoritism.
“Visitors are now received with warm hospitality. Many travelers have repeatedly heard officers at the crossing say to passengers: ‘Welcome home, you have illuminated our country’.”
Jordanian tour operators, who for years pivoted travelers to Istanbul, Cairo, or Beirut, now report growing inquiries for tours that include Damascus’ ancient souks, the Umayyad Mosque and day trips to historic sites such as Bosra.
Meanwhile, a growing number of independent travelers are making the Amman-Damascus bus route part of their itineraries, sharing tips online about passports, bus times and border crossing formalities.
Battieh said the fall of the Bashar Assad regime had made Syria a substantially freer and easier country to navigate.
“Tourism has indeed begun to return to Syria, but with a new spirit, free of the difficulties and complications that were imposed during the era of the former regime,” he said.
“Starting from border and airport police and extending to public roads, today, procedures for entering Syria have become smoother and far more welcoming.”
Syria’s comparable affordability as a destination is reportedly another appeal that is attracting Jordanians to venture north.
According to Hussein Halaqat, a spokesperson for the Jordan Hotels Association, domestic tourism in Jordan declined during the first three days of the last Eid Al-Adha holiday due in part to the lower-cost travel on offer across the northern border.
“Prices in Syria are lower than in Jordan, particularly compared with Jordan’s five-star seaside hotels in Aqaba and the Dead Sea, which not everyone can afford,” he told Erem News.
He said the queues at coach stops in the capital, Amman, for services heading to Syria, which can cost as little as 15 Jordanian dinars ($21) per passenger, were indicative of the rising competition that regional integration could bring.
Battieh said Jordanians were particularly drawn to Damascus and Aleppo for their historical significance and famed cuisine. Many of Damascus’ most famous restaurants had moved to Amman during the war, creating a local following.
“A visitor can easily spend at least one full week in Damascus alone, exploring landmarks such as the Umayyad Mosque, Al-Azem Palace, and famous traditional markets like Al-Hamidiyah Souq and Al-Buzuriyah,” he said.
“They also really love the city’s diverse cuisine, Damascene ice cream, traditional cafes such as Al-Nawfara Cafe and historic public bathhouses like Hammam Al-Malik Al-Zahir.”
As the road to Damascus is reconnected with its southern neighbor, so too are its skies. In early January, a Royal Jordanian commercial flight landed at Damascus International Airport, marking the restoration of the Amman-Damascus air corridor after a 14-year hiatus.
The flight, organized as a technical trial, carried a Jordanian delegation of aviation experts tasked with assessing the airport’s readiness to resume regular operations.
While modest in scale, the flight was heavy with symbolism — a sign that Damascus was once again reentering regional airspace after more than a decade of isolation.
Since then, travel has surged, with Royal Jordanian offering four weekly flights between the two capitals. With a flight time of just 25 minutes, the route is intended to close the gap for road-weary travelers, while giving Syrians access to more destinations through an Amman transit.
Moreover, perhaps more ambitiously, the two countries have agreed to restore a historic rail link that once connected Damascus and Amman. The Hijaz Railway project aims to have passengers traveling between the two cities as early as this year.
Although the timeline remains unclear, Zahi Khalil, director-general and deputy chairman of the Jordan Hijaz Railway at the Jordanian Ministry of Transport, told Arab News that plans are well underway.
“Regarding the connection process — the link between Damascus and Amman — it could be ready by the end of 2026.”
Historically, the Hijaz Railway was part of the Ottoman rail network and served as a major link between Damascus and Makkah, reducing a journey that once took 40 days to just five.
Seen by the sultan at the time as a symbol of Islamic unity and progress, the railway holds deep historical and cultural significance across the region.
Khalil said much of the historic track would be rehabilitated, upgraded for modern trains and reused, with large sections of the original route still intact.
“Once Syria is linked to the Turkish rail lines, Amman will be connected all the way to Istanbul,” he said.
For Jordanian tourists, these developments reinforce a sense that Syria is no longer a place visited only out of necessity or for nostalgia, but one that is once again accessible by choice.
For Syrians like Battieh, these changes represent something far deeper — a reclaiming of mobility after years of enforced paralysis, and a signal that reintegration into the region is no longer theoretical, but operational.
“Syria has room for all who love her,” Battieh said. “Welcome to the new Syria. As the French archaeologist Andre Parrot once said: ‘Every civilized person has two homelands: Their own, and Syria’.”
