O man, this is paradise on earth! Lush, green, cool wadis calling

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Updated 01 May 2013
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O man, this is paradise on earth! Lush, green, cool wadis calling

For those who want to experience the true joy of being in nature’s lap, Omani wadis (valleys) are a like spa for the mind. Here, in the interiors of Oman, a genteel air of comfort and a crisp and clean environment reign over the place. The silence of the wadi with the soft gurgle of the wadi waters in the background can be overwhelming on ears used to the din of rush-hour traffic.
Oman is punctuated by a string of wadis with lush date plantations growing along their banks. These pockets make interesting places for picnicking and excursions.
A wadi is basically a dry riverbed, which comes to life after heavy rains, when the streams start flowing again and the vegetation is restored. Some wadis have year-round running water, with deep, cool pools in which it is quite safe to swim when the currents are slow.
About an hour’s drive out of Muscat we approached Quriyat and took a right turn about 7 kilometers before the town. Within 15 minutes, following the signs, we rushed headlong into the lush scenery of Wadi Dayqah. As tires crunched over the pebbled mud road, an awesome vista unfolded before our eyes. A well-maintained park built across the dam overlooked a vast pool of water.
Wadi Dayqah is the most easily accessible wadi for residents of the Muscat Governorate. The wadi links the Sharqiyah region with Muscat, meandering from the eastern Hajar mountain range from Wilayat Dima and Taieen.
With an alignment that touches some scenic spots in the landscape and heritage spots, the new Quriyat-Sur dual carriageway is expected to add considerably to the tourism potential. Among the tourist spots that would be connected are Fins beach, Wadi Shab, Tiwi Beach, Wadi Tiwi, Bimmah Sinkhole and the historical town of Qalhat (known for the Bibi Maryam mausoleum).
Next stop is Wadi Shab, one of the most beautiful and picturesque wadis in Oman. The pretty stream, wedged between high rocky cliffs, lies 76 kilometers from Quriyat. The wadi combines the attraction of coastal pockets with inland wonders. The entire stretch of the wadi has seven pools of shimmering emerald green waters studded with boulders.
One of the pools is in a cave where light streams in dramatically from above and there are fantastic echoes as you swim and splash about. Tourists often come here to camp the entire night, enjoy the serenity of the area and dip into the cool waters.
As part of the Quriyat-Sur carriageway, a bridge has been constructed over Wadi Shab.
About 7 kilometers from Wadi Shab starts Wadi Tiwi, which extends 36 kilometers inland and ends at Mibam, a mountain hamlet. Many groves and fruit trees grow along the course of this wadi. The azure blue sea is visible as you ascend the hills and descend into the valley.
On another day, we visited Oman’s most popular wadi, Wadi Bani Khalid. Here, the elements of nature blend. The serenity of the place offers a balm for the body and soul. This wadi is filled with water throughout the year — still and glistening in the sun.
The wadi is famous for its lush green oases, water pools and deep canyons. Most visitors to this spot are awestruck by its serenity and almost unreal pace of life.
Wadi Bani Khalid is one of the six major wadis in the Sharqiyah region and is located about 250 kilometers from Muscat on the way to Sur via Ibra. The tarmac road takes a turn from the main road and leads you to the town of Wadi Bani Khalid. Later you have to cross the foothills of the Eastern Hajar Mountains to get to the wadi.
On the way, you get spectacular views of the steep mountains and fertile wadis dotted with date palms. The actual Wadi Bani Khalid is serenely ensconced in high mountains. The visitor has to park his car and walk to reach the turquoise and green pools of water. Even as you walk, you will notice the water flowing through the falaj system. This is essentially a network of underground aqueducts through which water flows, by gravity, from springs or wells to villages and farms.
Surrounded by date palms, the wadi is an oasis in all senses of the word. There are two pools of water here. One is the deep pool where only expert swimmers can have fun by jumping from a small bridge laid out against two rocks like a diving board. A word of caution about this pool: it is deep on the edges and shallow in the middle.
The water seems to be springing from the mountainside and flows down to the smaller pool, which is not very deep. Children and women generally frolic in this pool.
The Moqal Cave is also found in this area and you will need to cross the pools to reach the cave. The path is clear along the wadi and lined by trees. But as you progress, the path becomes steep and is not suitable for children. As you follow the shiny path on the rocks, you finally reach concrete steps on the right side of the wadi where the entrance to the cave is located.
Using flashlights, one can enter the cave but it is difficult to get through the cave because you need to be on your hands and knees to get inside.
Yet another wadi where you will find water throughout the year is Wadi Hoqain on the road to Rustaq. The wadi is endowed with a plentiful concentration of mineral springs — some gentle, some gushing. Wadi Hoqain courses through the main part of the village.
Cool springs emerge from granite sub-strata and join forces with the main stream along its course. In many places, the wadi scythes through granite rock and, at one point, cascades down a height of 10 meters to form a natural waterfall and collects in refreshingly cool pools that are a popular attraction with tourists and local townsfolk.
The Wilayat of Ibri in Dahira region is also blessed with wadis in addition to some archaeological treasures. Wadi Dham is a perfect place to unwind and de-stress your mind. Dham, which means easily hidden, is an apt name, as the graded road leading to the wadi does not provide any clues on what is in store for visitors.
There are many pleasure walks around the outcrop of Jabal Khawr Mountain from where Wadi Dham originates. Here, you need to park your vehicle and trek to unravel nature’s hidden secrets.
The place is characterized by huge rock formations that can overwhelm any visitor who is interested in geology.
Yet another picturesque wadi is Wadi Bani Awf near the town of Rustaq. Snake Canyon lies not far ahead, with its sheer rock faces, cool springs and gurgling streams.
Wadi Al Hawasnah in Al-Khabourah in the Batinah region is known for its unique geological formations. The wadi traverses through an airhole of ophiolite rocks known geologically as Al-Hawasnah Airhole. Here tourists can feast on nature’s engineering skills. The area is unadorned in its primitive beauty and awe-inspiring for its sheer size. The entire area serves as a good source of knowledge on geology. One can see rocks that were originally found on the bottom of the ocean.
This particular geological structure is an essential path passing through a rocky belt extending from Al-Batinah Plain in the East as far as Ibri in the West. The wadi, sloping down the lofty western Hajar Mountains bordering the Wilayat Ibri, is characterized by its content of igneous rock structures such as cushion lava, sharp-edged rocky blades and columns.
The wadi is fed by several tributaries, such as Wadi Dhila, and drains its water into the Gulf of Oman between Qasabiyat Al-Zaabi village and Qasabiyat Al-Hawasnah in Al-Khabourah.
The wadi gushing water in the vicinity of Ghab village and Falaj Al-Majajah and the picture-postcard scenery of Al-Badia Village are a feast for sore eyes.
One of the most popular wadis in the Batinah region is Wadi Al-Abyadh, which lies some 30 kilometers away from Muscat on the Sohar Highway. Pink oleander trees and many beautiful birds live in this wadi.
Wadi Bani Ghafer, one of the longest wadis in the Wilayat of Rustaq, starts in the Wilayat of Ibri and ends in Balad Khafd in Rustaq. Wadi Sadaq is one of the most important branches of Wadi Bani Ghafer.
The Wilayat of Dhank in the Dahirah region is blessed with an abundance of water resources like Wadi Feda. The wadi is set in a verdant landscape.
Among other wadis that can be explored are the ones in Samayil, Fanja and Al-Ayn.
Most of the wadis offer a relaxed atmosphere to visitors, enabling them to break the monotony of routine and get away from the strenuous city life of Muscat.

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AlUla’s ancient scripts come alive after dark at Ikmah

The team at ‘Ikmah After Dark: Secrets of the Scribe’ showing a visitor how to carve on a stone. (Supplied)
Updated 04 January 2026
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AlUla’s ancient scripts come alive after dark at Ikmah

  • Gen-Z local Omer Mohammad guided Arab News through the vast outdoor setting of ‘Secrets of the Scribe’

ALULA: Ikmah Mountain, also known as Jabal Ikmah, one of AlUla’s landmark archeological sites, is offering visitors a new experience this week as part of the Winter at Tantora programming, which ends on Jan. 10. 

Near the ancient city of Dadan, Ikmah highlights AlUla’s role as a major cultural and religious center long before the rise of the Nabataeans. It is being activated under the stars in a brand new, old way.

The site, often described as “an open-air library” for its hundreds of ancient inscriptions carved on its canyon walls thousands of years ago, provides visitors with have a chance to etch their own names, using the ancient alphabet, on a block of stone they can take home.

The team at ‘Ikmah After Dark: Secrets of the Scribe’ showing a visitor how to carve on a stone. (Supplied)

Written mainly in Dadanitic and Lihyanite, the ancient texts once recorded religious dedications, laws, names of rulers and traced everyday life, providing rare insights into the beliefs and social structures of early Arabian kingdoms. 

Arab News spoke with Gen-Z local Omer Mohammad, who guided us through the vast outdoor setting of the “Secrets of the Scribe — Ikmah After Dark” experience.

“When the guests arrive, we welcome them ... give them some tea to get refreshed. After that, if the group is big, we split them into two; some of the group goes to go to the carving where they are going to learn how to carve. And the other group is going to go to explore the gorge,” he said. 

Storytelling was such an important thing here 3,000 years ago. People from all over the world used to bring their animals and rest here; it had a river so it had some water and everything.

Omer Mohammad, AlUla local

The gorge is an elevated path with candles lighting the way on both sides.

“In the scripts and descriptions you’re going to see (in the mountains), you will get to know more about Dadani lives and what they used to do here,” he said.

After the hike down, visitors from both groups join at the gathering point where everyone is encouraged to rest, mingle and enjoy small bites such as dates and other goodies, as well as tea. 

While it is a new experience, the tradition is old. 

“Storytelling was such an important thing here 3,000 years ago. People from all over the world used to bring their animals and rest here; it had a river so it had some water and everything,” he said.

Dressed in garb from olden times and speaking in poetic prose, Mohammad and his peers guided us to see the light in the dark night.

“It is significant to me personally to work on this project to get people to come here and get excited (about) what’s happening, enjoy our stories and know more about Dadani life,” he said.

On a personal note, Mohammad is grateful to know more about his own history and wants to continue passing on that newfound knowledge to all generations — both younger and older than his own — and be part of the unfolding story of the land and its people.

“I guess you can say that this is the land of my ancestors. I really love history, and I really would like to know more about history — and my history,” Mohammad said. “But I just learned about this ancient history three years ago when I started working here.

“I never had the experience before, so when I knew more about it, I was so happy. And it was so good. Everyone should come,” he said.