Forgotten bunker offers glimpse of wartime Hanoi

Updated 14 October 2012
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Forgotten bunker offers glimpse of wartime Hanoi

FROM Hollywood starlets to scruffy trade union delegations, an unassuming reinforced concrete bunker under a central Hanoi hotel sheltered communist Vietnam’s most important wartime guests.
Sealed off and forgotten after hostilities ended in 1975, the dank subterranean passages were unearthed during recent renovations at the hotel, now favored by foreign tourists and wealthy Vietnamese.
“I felt a little bit like Indiana Jones discovering the Temple of Doom or something,” said Kai Speth, general manager of the Metropole Hotel, describing when he first entered the seven-room bunker, which was knee-deep in water.
There were always rumors that the bunker — no more than 20 square meters (215 square feet) in size — was under the swimming pool bar, he said.
“So I told the team when we were rebuilding the foundations of the bar: ‘Let’s dig a little deeper’.”
The bunker was built in 1968 when the hotel, then known as the Thong Nhat, was a drab, government-run establishment used by the communist authorities to house visiting delegations, including a string of prominent American anti-war activists.
Actress Jane Fonda and folk singer Joan Baez both used the shelter, with Baez recording a song in it during the Christmas bombings in December 1972, when the US dropped some 20,000 tones of ordnance in 11 days.
More than 1,600 civilians died in the attack, and Baez’s 21-minute recording “Where Are You Now, My Son?,” made in the concrete passages, captures some of the sounds of wartime Hanoi.
“You can hear the bombs falling. You can hear the anti-air(craft) machine guns going off that were mounted on the Opera House” near the hotel, Speth said.
Fonda arrived after the Christmas Bombings, her then interpreter Tran Minh Quoc told AFP, but she was caught in several raids during her controversial tour of the country, which earned her the nickname “Hanoi Jane” back in the States.
“We could hear the bombing from afar and we together went down to the bunker.... The American air force never hit the hotel. (Fonda) was very calm.... She didn’t show any fear,” he said.
The bunker at the Metropole, which will be preserved in its original state and is open for tours for guests, is one of thousands of similar bomb shelters dug across Hanoi during the decades-long conflict.
Most have since been filled in, but one other famous site remains — behind the walls of Thang Long Citadel lies a bunker where former key leaders General Vo Nguyen Giap and president Ho Chi Minh once sheltered from bomb attacks.
While most of Vietnam’s war tourism industry is concentrated in the south — visitors to Ho Chi Minh City can visit the famous war museum and Cu Chi tunnels — signs of Hanoi’s wartime legacy abound if you know where to look.
A small plaque next to Hanoi’s Truc Bach Lake marks the spot where US Senator John McCain was shot down as a navy pilot and dragged ashore to become a prisoner of war — one of 10 American planes to be downed by anti-aircraft gunners on just one day in 1967.
Tourists can also visit the so-called “Hanoi Hilton,” where American POWs like McCain were held. While much of the Hoa Lo Prison was demolished, sections of it, including the gatehouse, remain open as a museum.
Not all Hanoi’s war relics are memorials. On the shore of the city’s West Lake, one family has transformed a former French armaments store into a popular cafe.
“This cafe has a special style because of historic values. When people come here, they are more curious about history,” owner Vu Thi Huong told AFP.
In other parts of the city, the wartime history has been absorbed into the scenery. 
Other business owners are hoping to cash in on wartime nostalgia — a new themed restaurant in Hanoi, called the “State-run Food Shop number 37,” takes customers back to the days of food rationing.
For around $ 25, you can get an authentic 1970s-style meal for six, served to you by staff wearing uniforms from the actual state-run shops of the period, in a restaurant packed with war-era memorabilia.
“A good place for the old to remember the difficult era and (for) the youth to understand a historic period — though the dishes are not all delicious,” a September review in the official Vietnam News Agency said.
For Bob Devereaux, an Australian diplomat stationed in Hanoi in 1975, wartime relics are important to help the younger generation — some 60 percent of Vietnam’s population is under 35 — come to terms with the past.
Devereaux was put up at the Thong Nhat hotel, where the Australian embassy was located at the time, and he used the underground bunker as storage — even carving his name into wet cement, where it remains to this day.
“I’m a great lover of nostalgia so I find it very interesting. It reminds me of what times were like around about 1975. The war was very bitter and savage,” he said.
In Vietnam, “anyone younger than 40 or so has no memory of war,” he added. “I think it’s a good thing for them to come and see what life was about.”


Meaty issue: German political party calls for €4.90 price cap on doner kebabs

Updated 07 May 2024
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Meaty issue: German political party calls for €4.90 price cap on doner kebabs

  • Die Linke appeals to government as price of national favorite hits €10 in some cities
  • Scheme would cost taxpayer about €4bn

LONDON: German political party Die Linke has urged the government to cap the price of a much loved food item — the doner kebab.

The party has proposed providing daily vouchers to households that would limit prices to €4.90 ($5.28) and €2.90 for young people under an initiative known as Donerpreisbremse.

The scheme is projected to cost the government about €4 billion.

Introduced after the Second World War by Turkish immigrants who adapted the dish to suit local tastes, the doner kebab is a national favorite in Germany, with an estimated 1.3 billion consumed annually. But their soaring price has become a hot-button political issue.

Die Linke said the cost of a doner kebab had reached €10 in some cities, from €4 just two years ago.

“For young people right now it is an issue as important as where they will move when they leave home,” said Hanna Steinmuller, a lawmaker with the Greens party.

“I know it’s not an everyday issue for many people here … but I think as voter representatives we are obliged to highlight these different perspectives.”

German Chancellor Olaf Scholz was famously confronted by a voter last year who demanded he “speak with Putin … I’m paying €8 for a doner.”

With public pressure mounting, Scholz recently acknowledged on social media that “everywhere I go, mostly by young people, I get asked if there should be a price cap for doner kebabs.”

Despite the appeals, the chancellor rejected the proposal, citing the impracticality of price controls in a free market economy.

Despite its humble origins as a street food, the doner kebab has become an unexpected point of political focus.

Last month, German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier sparked controversy when on a visit to Turkiye he gifted 60 kg of kebab meat from Berlin to Istanbul in what some called a clumsy attempt to symbolize the strong cultural ties between the two nations.


A 98-year-old in Ukraine walked miles to safety from Russians, with slippers and a cane

Updated 01 May 2024
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A 98-year-old in Ukraine walked miles to safety from Russians, with slippers and a cane

  • Describing her journey, the nonagenarian said she had fallen twice and was forced to stop to rest at some points, even sleeping along the way before waking up and continuing her journey

KYIV, Ukraine: A 98-year-old woman in Ukraine who escaped Russian-occupied territory by walking almost 10 kilometers (6 miles) alone, wearing a pair of slippers and supported by a cane has been reunited with her family days after they were separated while fleeing to safety.
Lidia Stepanivna Lomikovska and her family decided to leave the frontline town of Ocheretyne, in the eastern Donetsk region, last week after Russian troops entered it and fighting intensified.
Russians have been advancing in the area, pounding Kyiv’s depleted, ammunition-deprived forces with artillery, drones and bombs.
“I woke up surrounded by shooting all around — so scary,” Lomikovska said in a video interview posted by the National Police of Donetsk region.
In the chaos of the departure, Lomikovska became separated from her son and two daughters-in-law, including one, Olha Lomikovska, injured by shrapnel days earlier. The younger family members took to back routes, but Lydia wanted to stay on the main road.
With a cane in one hand and steadying herself using a splintered piece of wood in the other, the pensioner walked all day without food and water to reach Ukrainian lines.
Describing her journey, the nonagenarian said she had fallen twice and was forced to stop to rest at some points, even sleeping along the way before waking up and continuing her journey.
“Once I lost balance and fell into weeds. I fell asleep … a little, and continued walking. And then, for the second time, again, I fell. But then I got up and thought to myself: “I need to keep walking, bit by bit,’” Lomikovska said.
Pavlo Diachenko, acting spokesman for the National Police of Ukraine in the Donetsk region, said Lomikovska was saved when Ukrainian soldiers spotted her walking along the road in the evening. They handed her over to the “White Angels,” a police group that evacuates citizens living on the front line, who then took her to a shelter for evacuees and contacted her relatives.
“I survived that war,’ she said referring to World War II. “I had to go through this war too, and in the end, I am left with nothing.
“That war wasn’t like this one. I saw that war. Not a single house burned down. But now – everything is on fire,” she said to her rescuer.
In the latest twist to the story, the chief executive of one of Ukraine’s largest banks announced on his Telegram channel Tuesday that the bank would purchase a house for the pensioner.
“Monobank will buy Lydia Stepanivna a house and she will surely live in it until the moment when this abomination disappears from our land,” Oleh Horokhovskyi said.
 

 


Amazon Purr-rime: Cat accidentally shipped to online retailer

Updated 30 April 2024
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Amazon Purr-rime: Cat accidentally shipped to online retailer

  • Galena was found safe by a warehouse worker at an Amazon center after vanishing from her home in Utah

LOS ANGELES: A curious cat that sneaked into an open box was shipped across the United States to an Amazon warehouse after its unknowing owners sealed it inside.
Carrie Clark’s pet, Galena, vanished from her Utah home on April 10, sparking a furious search that involved plastering “missing” posters around the neighborhood.
But a week later, a vet hundreds of miles (kilometers) away in Los Angeles got in touch to say the cat had been discovered in a box — alongside several pairs of boots — by a warehouse worker at an Amazon center.
“I ran to tell my husband that Galena was found and we broke down upon realizing that she must have jumped into an oversized box that we shipped out the previous Wednesday,” Clark told KSL TV in Salt Lake City.
“The box was a ‘try before you buy,’ and filled with steel-toed work boots.”
Clark and her husband jetted to Los Angeles, where they discovered Amazon employee Brandy Hunter had rescued Galena — a little hungry and thirsty after six days in a cardboard box, but otherwise unharmed.
“I could tell she belonged to someone by the way she was behaving,” said Hunter, according to Amazon.
“I took her home that night and went to the vet the next day to have her checked for a microchip, and the rest is history.”


What did people eat before agriculture? New study offers insight

A human tooth discovered at Taforalt Cave in Morocco in an undated photograph. (REUTERS)
Updated 30 April 2024
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What did people eat before agriculture? New study offers insight

  • Analysis of forms — or isotopes — of elements including carbon, nitrogen, zinc, sulfur and strontium in these remains indicated the type and amount of plants and meat they ate

WASHINGTON: The advent of agriculture roughly 11,500 years ago in the Middle East was a milestone for humankind — a revolution in diet and lifestyle that moved beyond the way hunter-gatherers had existed since Homo sapiens arose more than 300,000 years ago in Africa.
While the scarcity of well-preserved human remains from the period preceding this turning point has made the diet of pre-agricultural people a bit of a mystery, new research is now providing insight into this question. Scientists reconstructed the dietary practices of one such culture from North Africa, surprisingly documenting a heavily plant-based diet.
The researchers examined chemical signatures in bones and teeth from the remains of seven people, as well as various isolated teeth, from about 15,000 years ago found in a cave outside the village of Taforalt in northeastern Morocco. The people were part of what is called the Iberomaurusian culture.
Analysis of forms — or isotopes — of elements including carbon, nitrogen, zinc, sulfur and strontium in these remains indicated the type and amount of plants and meat they ate. Found at the site were remains from different edible wild plants including sweet acorns, pine nuts, pistachio, oats and legumes called pulses. The main prey, based on bones discovered at the cave, was a species called Barbary sheep.
“The prevailing notion has been that hunter-gatherers’ diets were primarily composed of animal proteins. However, the evidence from Taforalt demonstrates that plants constituted a big part of the hunter-gatherers’ menu,” said Zineb Moubtahij, a doctoral student in archaeology at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Germany and lead author of the study published on Monday in the journal Nature Ecology & Evolution.
“It is important as it suggests that possibly several populations in the world already started to include substantial amount of plants in their diet” in the period before agriculture was developed, added archeogeochemist and study co-author Klervia Jaouen of the French research agency CNRS.
The Iberomaurusians were hunter-gatherers who inhabited parts of Morocco and Libya from around 25,000 to 11,000 years ago. Evidence indicates the cave served as a living space and burial site.
These people used the cave for significant portions of each year, suggesting a lifestyle more sedentary than simply roaming the landscape searching for resources, the researchers said. They exploited wild plants that ripened at different seasons of the year, while their dental cavities illustrated a reliance on starchy botanical species.
Edible plants may have been stored by the hunter-gatherers year-round to guard against seasonal shortages of prey and ensure a regular food supply, the researchers said.
These people ate only wild plants, the researchers found. The Iberomaurusians never developed agriculture, which came relatively late to North Africa.
“Interestingly, our findings showed minimal evidence of seafood or freshwater food consumption among these ancient groups. Additionally, it seems that these humans may have introduced wild plants into the diets of their infants at an earlier stage than previously believed,” Moubtahij said.
“Specifically, we focused on the transition from breastfeeding to solid foods in infants. Breast milk has a unique isotopic signature, distinct from the isotopic composition of solid foods typically consumed by adults.”
Two infants were among the seven people whose remains were studied. By comparing the chemical composition of an infant’s tooth, formed during the breastfeeding period, with the composition of bone tissue, which reflects the diet shortly before death, the researchers discerned changes in the baby’s diet over time. The evidence indicated the introduction of solid foods at around the age of 12 months, with babies weaned earlier than expected for a pre-agricultural society.
North Africa is a key region for studying Homo sapiens evolution and dispersal out of Africa.
“Understanding why some hunter-gatherer groups transitioned to agriculture while others did not can provide valuable insights into the drivers of agricultural innovation and the factors that influenced human societies’ decisions to adopt new subsistence strategies,” Moubtahij said.

 


Palestinian prisoner in Israel wins top fiction prize

Basim Khandaqji’s book was chosen from 133 works submitted to the competition. (Photo/Social media)
Updated 29 April 2024
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Palestinian prisoner in Israel wins top fiction prize

  • The mask in the novel’s title refers to the blue identity card that Nur, an archaeologist living in a refugee camp in Ramallah, finds in the pocket of an old coat belonging to an Israeli

ABU DHABI: Palestinian writer Basim Khandaqji, jailed 20 years ago in Israel, won a prestigious prize for Arabic fiction on Sunday for his novel “A Mask, the Color of the Sky.”
The award of the 2024 International Prize for Arabic Fiction was announced at a ceremony in Abu Dhabi.
The prize was accepted on Khandaqji’s behalf by Rana Idriss, owner of Dar Al-Adab, the book’s Lebanon-based publisher.
Khandaqji was born in the Israeli-occupied West Bank city of Nablus in 1983, and wrote short stories until his arrest in 2004 at the age of 21.
He was convicted and jailed on charges relating to a deadly bombing in Tel Aviv, and completed his university education from inside jail via the Internet.
The mask in the novel’s title refers to the blue identity card that Nur, an archaeologist living in a refugee camp in Ramallah, finds in the pocket of an old coat belonging to an Israeli.
Khandaqji’s book was chosen from 133 works submitted to the competition.
Nabil Suleiman, who chaired the jury, said the novel “dissects a complex, bitter reality of family fragmentation, displacement, genocide, and racism.”
Since being jailed Khandaqji has written poetry collections including “Rituals of the First Time” and “The Breath of a Nocturnal Poem.”
He has also written three earlier novels.