Record number of climbers chase 14-peak dream in Tibet

This photograph taken on May 2, 2021 shows climbers negotiating the Khumbu glacier in the Mount Everest region of Solukhumbu district, some 140kms northeast of Nepal's capital Kathmandu. (AFP/File)
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Updated 08 October 2024
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Record number of climbers chase 14-peak dream in Tibet

  • Only about 50 climbers worldwide have climbed all mountain peaks above 8,000 meters
  • Most climbers assembled at Chinese Himalayas have already summited 13 other highest peaks

Katmandu: A record number of climbers are gathered in Tibet to complete mountaineering’s pinnacle achievement, summiting the world’s tallest 14 peaks.

Only about 50 climbers have climbed all mountain peaks above 8,000 meters (26,250 feet), a feat that took most years, or even decades, to complete.

About 20 are vying for the record books this month, some spurred by a blockbuster Netflix documentary giving the endeavor a wider profile.

Technological advancements have made the feat easier to accomplish.

“We are growing as a community, and we are representing mountaineering all over the world,” Pakistani climber Shehroze Kashif, 22, told AFP.

“I think that’s great... they are completing their dream, as I am.”

It took Italian climber Reinhold Messner 16 years from his initial summit to become the first person in the world considered to have climbed all 14 peaks in 1986.

But most of the climbers assembled in the Chinese Himalayas at the base camp of Mount Shisha Pangma only began their attempts within the past few years.

They have already summited the 13 other highest peaks, located in the Himalayan and Karakoram ranges, straddling Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet and India.

Many have been waiting to scale the 8,027-meter-high (26,335 feet) Tibetan peak since last year, when China closed the mountain to climbers after two American women and their Nepali guides were killed in an avalanche.

The aspirants are a mix of seasoned veterans and rising stars.

Teenage Nepali climber Nima Rinji Sherpa, 18, aims to be the youngest to climb all 14.

Several hope to be the first from their respective countries to accomplish the feat.

Advances in mountaineering technology, weather forecasting and logistical support have made this once-inaccessible goal more achievable — particularly for those who can afford it.

Mingma Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks, Nepal’s biggest mountaineering expedition company, told AFP that climbers could expect to pay up to $700,000 for full support teams.

But he said the hefty price tag had not dissuaded a growing number of people from pursuing the endeavor.

“They climb one or two, and then the mountains attract them,” he said. “Soon they might decide to climb them all.”

Teams of support crews and helicopters for rapid transportation between base camps have allowed climbers to tackle multiple mountains in a single season.

“It is clear that the pioneers back then, they did much more difficult, dangerous and exceptional ascents,” German mountaineering chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski told AFP.

“Now it is possible to do them within three months. The logistics are so world-class now.”

British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja famously completed the 14 peaks in just over six months in 2019, shattering the previous record of seven years.

His efforts were chronicled in a Netflix documentary, inspiring a new wave of athletes to try and eclipse his speed run.

Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her Nepali guide Tenjen Lama Sherpa — the latter who died attempting to summit Shisha Pangma last year — now hold the record.

They climbed the giant mountains in 92 days, ending in July 2023.

The pair also reached the “true summits” of all the mountains, which many previous climbers had missed.

This month, at least six have already completed the feat after summiting Shisha Pangma, including the first Japanese, Pakistani and female American climbers.

They also included Nirmal Purja again, who this time said he was climbing all 14 without supplementary oxygen.

The trend toward speed has not always been welcomed by the mountaineering fraternity.

Veteran climbers have criticized Purja and Harila for using helicopters, pre-prepared routes and support teams.

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, who is aiming to become the first woman from Nepal to summit all 14 peaks, said the style of ascent dictated how much it was valued by other alpinists.

“Some climb 14 peaks... and maybe even have climbed Everest several times, but some don’t have the capacity to climb without support,” she told AFP.

But Russian climber Alina Pekova, also attempting the Tibetan summit to finish her 14-peak climb, said that speed ascents were an endurance test.

“If you can climb it a fast way, why not try?” she told AFP. “That’s another challenge.”


Trump expands travel ban, adding 5 more countries and imposing new limits on others

Updated 6 sec ago
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Trump expands travel ban, adding 5 more countries and imposing new limits on others

  • Nationals from Syria, South Sudan, Burkina Faso, Mali and Niger are banned from visiting the US
  • The White House also fully restricted travel on people with Palestinian-Authority-issued travel documents

WASHINGTON: The Trump administration is expanding its travel ban to include five more countries and impose new limits on others.
This move Tuesday is part of ongoing efforts to tighten US entry standards for travel and immigration. The decision follows the arrest of an Afghan national suspect in the shooting of two National Guard troops over Thanksgiving weekend.
In June, President Donald Trump announced that citizens of 12 countries would be banned from visiting the United States and those from seven others would face restrictions. The decision resurrected a hallmark policy of his first term.
At the time the ban included Afghanistan, Myanmar, Chad, the Republic of Congo, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Haiti, Iran, Libya, Somalia, Sudan and Yemen and heightened restrictions on visitors from Burundi, Cuba, Laos, Sierra Leone, Togo, Turkmenistan and Venezuela.
On Tuesday, the Republican administration announced it was expanding the list of countries whose citizens are banned from entering the US to Burkina Faso, Mali, Niger, South Sudan and Syria. The administration also fully restricted travel on people with Palestinian-Authority-issued travel documents.
An additional 15 countries are also being added to the list of countries facing partial restrictions: Angola, Antigua and Barbuda, Benin, Côte d’Ivoire, Dominica, Gabon, Gambia, Malawi, Mauritania, Nigeria, Senegal, Tanzania, Tonga, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
The Trump administration said in its announcement of the expanded travel ban that many of the countries from which it was restricting travel had “widespread corruption, fraudulent or unreliable civil documents and criminal records” that made it difficult to vet their citizens for travel to the US. It also said some countries had high rates of people overstaying their visas, refused to take back their citizens who the US wished to deport or had a “general lack of stability and government control,” which made vetting difficult.
“The restrictions and limitations imposed by the Proclamation are necessary to prevent the entry of foreign nationals about whom the United States lacks sufficient information to assess the risks they pose, garner cooperation from foreign governments, enforce our immigration laws, and advance other important foreign policy, national security, and counterterrorism objectives,” reads the White House proclamation announcing the changes.
The Afghan man accused of shooting the two National Guard troops near the White House has pleaded not guilty to murder and assault charges.