KHAPLU, Gilgit-Baltistan: Renowned Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan made history on Friday by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks, with his successful ascent of Shishapangma, standing at 8,027 meters, as confirmed by Pakistan’s Alpine Club and Imagine Nepal.
The 14 peaks, often referred to as the “eight-thousanders,” are over 8,000 meters high and are considered the ultimate test in high-altitude mountaineering. Khan, who was born and raised in Hunza, embarked on this journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat, one of the deadliest mountains in the world.
Over the years, he has climbed formidable peaks, including K2, Everest and Annapurna, solidifying his reputation as one of the world’s elite mountaineers. He also completed 11 of these summits without supplemental oxygen, demonstrating his remarkable endurance and skill.
“Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani mountaineer to conquer all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters, in an incredible display of courage and determination,” Karrar Haidri, the general secretary for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, told Arab News in a text message. “This extraordinary accomplishment demonstrates his unwavering passion and dedication to the sport of mountaineering.”
Haidri said Khan had faced the most extreme conditions during his mountaineering career.
“Faced with freezing temperatures, treacherous avalanches, oxygen-depleted altitudes, and the constant threat of crevasses, he has repeatedly demonstrated his resilience and strength,” he added. “His success not only represents personal triumph but also serves as an inspiration to mountaineers worldwide.”
Khan’s achievement was also acknowledged by Imagine Nepal, the tour company that organized the expedition, in a social media post.
“In an extraordinary achievement, 11 climbers from Imagine Nepal reached the true summit of Mt. Shishapangma (8,027m) at 4:06 p.m. CST [Central Standard Time] on 04 October 2024,” it wrote on Facebook.
“Mr. Sirbaz Khan has earned his place in history by summiting all 14 of the highest peaks, making him the first Pakistani climber to achieve this feat,” the company added.
Speaking to Arab News, Shahbaz Khan, the Pakistani climber’s brother, said the whole family was celebrating the moment.
“We are gathered to attend the marriage ceremony of our cousin,” he said. “All of our relatives are here and celebrating Sirbaz’s achievement.”
He said everyone was praying for his safe descent from the treacherous mountain, adding the next step would be to warmly receive him upon his arrival in Pakistan.
Khan also started receiving congratulations from fellow climbers soon after the news of his success began to spread.
“I salute your monumental achievement,” Shehroz Kashif, a young climber who has already conquered 13 of the world’s tallest peaks, said in a Facebook post. “Becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 8,000ers is a testament to your unwavering determination, resilience, and mountaineering prowess.”
“Your name etched in history inspires a nation,” he added.
Kashif noted that he will be following in Khan’s footsteps “in a few days,” as he prepares to summit the last of the 14 peaks on his list in Tibet.
Pakistan’s prominent female mountain climber Naila Kiani also applauded the development on social media.
“First Pakistani to summit all 14 X 8,000m peaks,” she said without naming Khan. “History has been made.”
