‘Act of Devotion’: Pakistani artist turns worn Qur’anic pages into works of art 

Visitors attend art exhibition by Saad Mehmood, 28, in Lahore on March 23, 2024. (AN Photo)
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Updated 29 March 2024
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‘Act of Devotion’: Pakistani artist turns worn Qur’anic pages into works of art 

  • 28-year-old visual artist Saad Mehmood began restoring Qur’an pages ready for ritual disposal as part of BA final-year thesis
  • Renowned artists describe the effort as “positive,” say it is vital to expand ways in which we experience the holy book 

LAHORE: For Saad Mehmood, it was a routine visit to a mosque in the eastern Pakistani city of Lahore for Friday prayers in 2017 when the then 22-year-old stumbled upon a store room with sheaves of paper stored carefully on a shelf. 
The worn pages were fragments from everyday copies of the Qur’an, which were awaiting ritual disposal. In Pakistan, pages of the holy book that are disposed are often called shaheed, or martyred, copies. 
In Islam, widely accepted methods of disposing worn pages of the holy book are to wrap them in a cloth and bury them, ideally in a mosque, or to burn them respectfully. 
But Mehmood, at the time a final year student of fine arts at the Beaconhouse National University (BNU), was inspired by the worn copies and decided to restore them as part of his thesis. 
“Saad asked for some of these pages that were torn or worn out, and started to restore the ordinary, mass-printed sheets with gold paper and the finest ink — bringing that which was ‘martyred’ back to life,” the artist’s statement accompanying an ongoing exhibition of his works in Lahore reads. 
The effort is “an act of artistic devotion,” Mehmood told Arab News at the exhibition last week, saying all his work now revolved around restoring the holy pages and turning them into artforms. 
“This work started in 2017,” Mehmood, now a 28-year-old visual artist, said. “I collect the pages of the Qur’an that are shaheed, then there’s an entire process to their restoration, I fill in the damaged parts so that the pages are readable again.”




Pakistani artist Saad Mehmood, 28, speaks to a visitor during his exhibition in Lahore on March 23, 2024. Mehmood’s work aims to restore worn Qur’anic pages ready for ritual disposal.  (AN Photo)

Mehmood said he had done extensive research on damaged Qur’anic pages and what happened to them and where they went from storerooms of mosques and homes.
“I saw that they’re buried in graveyards, or floated in clean and flowing water. Sometimes, I even saw the pages being burned and their ashes buried in some corner of a graveyard,” he explained. 
This got Mehmood thinking: instead of disposing of the sacred texts, he could restore them.
The process of restoration was a difficult one, as many Qur’an pages Mehmood came across had no references.
“When we open these [Qur’anic] collections… there are [some] smaller pages which don’t have any references [which ayat, surah, what page number],” he said. “So, this was a conundrum… how do I restore them when there’s no reference to work with?“
Mehmood decided to make a collage of such pages.
“So, at least they are still visible, still accessible,” he said. “So, we don’t accidentally disrespect the words, they will remain in front of our eyes, and then turn them into art to be appreciated.”
Mehmood has also visited multiple religious scholars to present his idea and his work. 
“There are a lot of organizations in Pakistan like Tahaffuz-e-Auraq [who dispose of pages in the prescribed manner],” Mehmood said. “I restored them and then I started showing people that basically this is the work I’m doing.”
The idea found wide acceptability, he said. 
“GOLD LEAF”
The ongoing exhibition in Lahore, organized by the Pakistan Art Forum, includes collages of restored Qur’anic fragments, concentric circles around Islamic calligraphy, decorative additions like gold leaves, and paintings with Arabic diacritics on Vasli and white paper. And this is all by design.
Mehmood said he wants to further explore this Islamic art form and create something new, like his painting of the diacritics without any words, or of punctuation marks without any sentences.
“The Qur’an came to us from Arabia, and the diacritics were added later, so that non-native Arabic speakers [Ajmi] could understand the text,” he said. “[Helping] in how to pronounce and enunciate it, zeir, zabr, that is also something I’ve worked on, and will continue to work on.”
There is also a reason why Mehmood uses gold leaf so often.




This photograph taken on March 23, 2024 shows an art piece by Pakistani artist Saad Mehmood, 28, in Lahore. Mehmood’s work aims to restore worn Qur’anic pages ready for ritual disposal.  (AN Photo)

“When you look at my work… I have used gold leaf on the shaheed [damaged] Qur’anic pages,” he said. 
“I used that gold leaf specifically and consciously, because gold is considered a divine material. And where the words are missing, pages torn, I’ve also used gold leaf to show the preciousness of the lost words, using a precious material.”
“EXPAND WAYS TO EXPERIENCE QUR’AN”
The visual artist has held a number of group exhibitions at the Alhamra Arts Center in Lahore and Sanat Gallery in the southern port city of Karachi. Last week, he held his second solo show in Lahore, titled Al-Qadr, referring to the night when Muslims believe the Qur’an was first revealed.
While most of the visitors to the Lahore exhibition said they had come out of curiosity, they left with admiration for the intricate work and beautiful calligraphy or collage technique that Mehmood uses.
“Calligraphy is a part of [what I do], but this is something else [entirely],” he explained. “You can call it a collage. You can call it an installation. You can call it painting, you can call it artwork.”
Shahid Rassam, a famous Pakistani painter and sculptor, described Mehmood work as “positive,” saying he had seen other works, though rare, in which worn Qur’an pages were restored as a form of art.
Rassam, who has himself made contemporary forms of the Qur’an, including one in which he used metal engravings, said it was “vital to expand the ways in which we experience the sacred text, even as art installations.”
“I think what this young man [Saad Mehmood] is doing is objectively a positive thing,” the artist said. “He’s taking sacred pages and giving them their rightful respect, instead of just letting them lie in poorly-kept stores and boxes.”




Visitors attend an art exhibition by Pakistani artist Saad Mehmood, 28, in Lahore on March 23, 2024. Mehmood’s work aims to restore worn Qur’anic pages ready for ritual disposal. (AN Photo)

 


Gail’s Bakery co-founder dismisses claims of Israeli ownership as ‘ridiculous’

Updated 31 August 2024
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Gail’s Bakery co-founder dismisses claims of Israeli ownership as ‘ridiculous’

DUBAI: The co-founder and chief executive of London’s Gail's Bakery, Tom Molnar, has addressed claims that the bakery is Israel-owned and opposed to the ceasefire, calling these allegations “ridiculous.”

In an interview with The Times, Molnar said: “Gail’s proudly has Jewish roots and there’s plenty of stuff out there celebrating our heritage and history, but it’s not true it’s Israel-owned.

“There’s some just crazy stuff on the web thinking we are funding Israel, which is just completely ridiculous. We’re a wholly UK-based business, paying UK taxes, it’s just ludicrous and I think it needs to be called out,” Molnar added.

The backlash against the bakery has been growing over the past month, fueled by posts like one from author Salma Ibrahim on X, who wrote: “Guys, Gail’s is an Israeli company. Another one to boycott along with Starbucks and Pret.” Her post garnered over 3,700 shares and likes, reaching nearly 300,000 people.


Loli Bahia showcases bold style in new campaign

Updated 31 August 2024
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Loli Bahia showcases bold style in new campaign

DUBAI: French Algerian model Loli Bahia has added another high-profile campaign to her portfolio, this time joining Swedish fashion brand H&M’s latest Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection.

In the first campaign image, Bahia, who is signed to Women Management Paris, was seen wearing a flowing black ensemble that includes a sheer, oversized top paired with wide-leg trousers. The outfit featured ruffled hems and a high neckline and was accompanied by a large black bag.

The second image shows the catwalk star in a crisp white blouse with structured, exaggerated sleeves, paired with a high-waisted black leather skirt detailed with silver studs.

In the first campaign image, Bahia was seen wearing a flowing black ensemble that includes a sheer, oversized top paired with wide-leg trousers. (Supplied)

In another shot, she was pictured in an oversized dark fur coat layered over wide-leg pants.

The campaign also features British singer Charli XCX, Venezuelan musician Arca, British model Lila Moss, American skateboarder and artist Sage Elsesser, and British musician Sega Bodega.

The latest collection embraces a mid-century aesthetic, evident in its suiting with boxy jackets and micro skirts. 

In another shot, she was pictured in an oversized dark fur coat layered over wide-leg pants. (Supplied)

The new drop features vintage-style opulence, with beading and studs adorning knitwear, heirloom-style mesh dresses, as well as leather and suede pieces.

The knitwear selection includes skirt suits in stretch wool, along with matching vests and shorts that are set to become wardrobe essentials.

The color palette spans a range of browns, from caramel to deep mahogany, with oxblood and green adding to the archival vibe. Black and white are used as accent tones. 

Accessories in the collection include heeled pumps with statement round toes, studded loafers, and furry slip-ons. The bags are sleek and directional, while the jewelry ranges from minimal and angular to off-beat and earthy.

The catwalk star also wore a crisp white blouse with structured, exaggerated sleeves, paired with a high-waisted black leather skirt detailed with silver studs. (Supplied)

“This collection is full of many special inspirations and quality materials. The leather, the knits, the sparkly separates – together the pieces showcase the strength of H&M’s fashion ability. It’s all about truly great clothes: real wardrobe icons. The campaign lets the fashion shine,” said Eliana Masgalos, the womenswear design director at H&M. 

Meanwhile, Bahia is one of the most in-demand models in the industry, becoming a runway fixture in just a few months after a breakthrough Spring 2022 fashion season, where she walked in 65 shows.

She has walked for a host of prestigious labels, including Chanel, Tory Burch, Givenchy, Lanvin, Schiaparelli and Valentino. Bahia also fronted campaigns for Saint Laurent, Tod’s, Isabel Marant, Courreges and Max Mara in addition to starring on the cover of Vogue Italia.


Elyanna joins Coldplay on stage in Dublin

Updated 31 August 2024
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Elyanna joins Coldplay on stage in Dublin

DUBAI: Palestinian Chilean singer Elyanna joined Coldplay on stage this week during their concert in Dublin to perform their recently released song “We Pray.”

She performed alongside rapper Little Simz, Nigerian singer Burna Boy and Argentine singer Tini, who are also featured on the track.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Coldplay (@coldplay)

“I’m still in awe of last night! Sharing this moment with all these amazing artists on @coldplay’s stage felt so wholesome,” she wrote to her 1.7 million followers on Instagram. “I sang ‘We Pray’ in Arabic, I sang for hope and most importantly for my hometown Palestine.”


Italy showcases 25 brands at Dubai Fashion Week’s ‘La Moda Italiana’ initiative

Updated 31 August 2024
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Italy showcases 25 brands at Dubai Fashion Week’s ‘La Moda Italiana’ initiative

DUBAI: Dubai Fashion Week is gearing up for its Spring/Summer 2025 showcase, with international labels set to hit the runway from Sept. 1-5.

This year, Italy will make a significant appearance at DFW with the launch of “La Moda Italiana: Dubai Edition,” a dedicated initiative introduced by the Italian Trade Agency in collaboration with the Arab Fashion Council and Confindustria Moda. 

The initiative will feature 25 Italian brands across various product categories, including clothing, textiles, footwear, leather goods and eyewear. These brands will showcase the pinnacle of Made in Italy craftsmanship in Dubai Design District. 

Valerio Soldani, the Italian trade commissioner, told Arab News that he believes this initiative will strengthen Italy’s relationship with the UAE, particularly in the fashion sector.

“Our trade exchange has been growing by double digits in recent years when it comes to the four pillars of Made in Italy: factory, fashion, food and furniture,” he said. “We think that fashion is also a good way to provide opportunities for Italian and UAE designers to collaborate, create new things, and blend cultures, industries and ideas.”

He believes this collaboration could happen through initiatives such as agreements with local retailers and partnerships between Italian companies and local designers to boost sales in the online channels across the Gulf Cooperation Council region. 

“We have noticed that our fashion exports have been growing consistently in the last five years. So we thought — with our headquarters — to do something big, to have a big splash into the UAE market. And we decided to team up with the Arab fashion Council and Confindustria Moda to showcase Italian excellence, quality and innovation when it comes to fashion.” 

The 25 brands, Soldani said, were carefully selected by the involved parties. “They provided an opportunity for many Italian companies to apply by submitting their lookbooks and Instagram accounts. Our partners at the Arab Fashion Council then chose a selection of 25 brands that best represent and align with the UAE’s tastes and trends in fashion.”

He said this provides Italian fashion startups with the opportunity to enter the GCC market.

Reflecting on the essence of Italian fashion, Soldani quoted Giorgio Armani: “Elegance is not about being noticed; it is about being remembered.”

He added: “I think that Italy is renowned and remembered all over the world because of quality, innovation, and sustainability, which is a very big topic right now for young designers, for customers all around the world, and it resonates with the efforts of the UAE in delivering cutting-edge solutions and driving innovation in these key areas.” 


REVIEW: Jeff Goldblum shines as Zeus in modern-day Greek comedy ‘Kaos’

Updated 30 August 2024
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REVIEW: Jeff Goldblum shines as Zeus in modern-day Greek comedy ‘Kaos’

DUBAI: Although “Kaos” is steeped in the world of ancient Greek myth, its story of an aging, vain, thin-skinned despot desperate to be worshipped and prone to lash out indiscriminately in rage if he feels slighted is, sadly, very of-the-moment.

In this case, that despot is Zeus (played beautifully by Jeff Goldblum), king of the deities, who lives on Mount Olympus with his wife (who’s also his sister — that’s the ancient Greeks for you) Hera (a regal and weary-of-cleaning-up-Zeus’-messes Janet McTeer).

“Kaos” is set in an alternative modern world where pantheism is still the prominent religion, and where the deities — and other figures from Greek mythology — move among humans. We jump into the action on the holy day of Olympia, when humans celebrate Zeus (via, among other ways, human sacrifice of a willing volunteer). A new monument to him is due to be unveiled, but when it is, it has been vandalized by a gang of Trojans. Coupled with the discovery of a new wrinkle on his forehead, this is enough to send Zeus spiraling, and he decides that an old prophecy about the end of his reign must be coming true — leading to ever-increasing paranoia and bad choices.

The catch is, at least according to the narrator, Prometheus (whom Zeus considers his closest friend, despite condemning him to an eternity chained to a rock while an eagle pecks at his liver), the prophecy is coming true. Or, at least, a series of events that will have the same effect is in motion.

Ostensibly, “Kaos” is a comedy. And there are certainly some very funny moments. But it’s also much deeper than that. In the first two episodes alone there are ruminations about the loneliness of falling out of love with your partner, gender politics, and the potential damage of parental expectations; (off-camera) infanticide; a magnificent scene of a young couple wordlessly pleading with The Fates to be allowed to enter the Underworld and try to recover their deceased son; and many takes on the danger of power. In other words, there’s a lot to sink your teeth into. And that’s without mentioning all the great portrayals of other figures from Greek myth (including Orpheus, Dionysus, Hades, Medusa, and Cassandra).

Show creator Charlie Covell has crafted something very special with “Kaos.” It’s an intelligent, compelling, very funny, and deeply moving show that richly rewards — and deserves — your attention.