From silver screen to traffic jam: Moving pictures of Bangladeshi rickshaw art

Above, rickshaw artist Hanif Pappu works on a painting at his shop in Dhaka on Dec. 13, 2023. He believes that with UNESCO recognition and increased interest, the art’s hour of glory could still arrive. (AFP)
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Updated 07 March 2024
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From silver screen to traffic jam: Moving pictures of Bangladeshi rickshaw art

  • UNESCO recognized art form as intangible cultural heritage in December
  • Rickshaw art peaked in 1960s alongside boom in Bangladeshi film industry

DHAKA: Mohammad Hanif Pappu has spent his life painting film stars — first on posters and then on rickshaws, a moving medium that over the past few decades has earned him legendary fame in Dhaka.

But it was only recently that he and his fellow craftsmen received global recognition, when the UN cultural agency, UNESCO, added rickshaw art to its list of intangible cultural heritage in December last year.

“I am very happy and thankful to UNESCO as they have recognized our artwork. I am also very happy as our works brought some good exposure to the country as well,” Pappu told Arab News at his workshop in the Hussaini Dalan Road of Old Dhaka.

Pappu, 62, started to work as a painter some five decades ago, learning the art from his maternal uncle. He painted movie posters until the beginning of the 2000s, when he turned to rickshaws as his canvas and taught the craft to dozens of other people.

Rickshaw artists paint almost every part of the vehicle with vivid, bright and colorful floral patterns, animals, fables, religious symbols, national heroes, or movie stars, turning the rickshaws into little roving exhibitions.

But interest in these decorations has fallen as fewer owners of the pedicabs can afford the decorations, and fewer artists choose the medium, given the growing accessibility of digital art.

“Many of our painters were forced to switch to other professions during the early years of this century, as the digital printing technology took over,” Pappu said.

“There are at most 30 or 40 rickshaw painters still running shops in Dhaka.”

He believes that with UNESCO recognition and increased interest, the art’s hour of glory could still arrive.

“Before people lose interest, we should make an institution to nurture this form of art,” he said.

“Rickshaw art has a unique form. It’s not like the traditional form of painting. It requires a special kind of craftsmanship.”

UNESCO recognized the craft as a key part not only of the city’s cultural tradition, but also a form of urban folk art, which provides a sense of shared identity and continuity.

Most of Dhaka’s more than 10 million residents use or have used rickshaws, which are “vehicles of urban life,” as Bangladeshi art critic Moinuddin Khaled refers to them.

“Rickshaws with paintings started plying Dhaka streets sometime at the end of the 1950s and in the early 1960s ... rickshaw art reached a peak point during the 1960s, and the reason behind this was the rise of our film industry,” he said.

“In that period, portraits of popular heroes and heroines of the Dhaka film industry dominated rickshaw paintings. Those paintings attracted people immediately.”

Growing customer interest in the art meant higher fares for rickshaw owners.

“Rickshaw paintings require exhibitionist patterns so that people notice them easily. The loud makeup looks of film stars were very much reflected in rickshaw paintings,” Khaled added. “Rickshaw pullers wanted to attract passengers.”

Besides movie stars, other popular themes include eye-pleasing floral decorations and animals. But many pedicabs also feature the faces of politicians or, owing to Bangladesh’s status as a Muslim-majority country, paintings of Islam’s holiest sites.

“The history of rickshaw painting is related to the politics and social developments in this country,” Khaled said.

“When people get stuck in traffic jams, rickshaw paintings offer visual relief. Rickshaw art represents a popular choice and conveys some messages. Sometimes, the painters write ‘mother’s blessings.’ It conveys positivity and good thoughts.”

Dhaka is sometimes known as a city of rickshaws, because the vehicles will be found on every street, lane or alley. Some have never seen their city without the vehicles.

“Life without traveling on a rickshaw is mostly unimaginable... Dhaka without rickshaws would look like an alien land for city dwellers,” said Miraj Minhaz, 23, a student at Dhaka University.

“I feel proud of being a part of this city of rickshaws.”

Mina Rahman, a resident of Dhaka’s Dhanmondi area, mostly connects rickshaw commutes to her youth, but is still attracted to the iconic artwork on the vehicles in adulthood.

“While stuck in traffic jams, I enjoy watching rickshaw paintings. It’s very colorful and interesting to watch,” she said.

“To me, it feels like watching a movie, as pictures change from one rickshaw to another.”


US hotels seek World Cup boost after tourism dip under Trump

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US hotels seek World Cup boost after tourism dip under Trump

  • At the US hotels that Meade Atkeson manages, a drop in tourism weighs heavily on business — but hoteliers like him hope that World Cup enthusiasm will soon eclipse wariness over President
WASHINGTON: At the US hotels that Meade Atkeson manages, a drop in tourism weighs heavily on business — but hoteliers like him hope that World Cup enthusiasm will soon eclipse wariness over President Donald Trump’s policies.
The US hospitality sector has been reeling from a tourism slump in the world’s biggest economy, which became the only major destination to see a drop in foreign visitors last year.
“Just financially, it’s difficult when international travel is down,” Atkeson told AFP, noting that such visitors tend to stay longer and spend more.
Foreign travelers account for nearly a quarter of business at the three hotels under Sonesta group that he manages — two in Washington and a third in Miami Beach.
Yet, in the first eleven months of 2025, US official data showed that inbound travel dropped by 5.4 percent.
Canadians were noticeably absent, with travel plunging by 21.7 percent from 2024, translating to about four million fewer people. The decline was nearly seven percent for French visitors.
Industry professionals see this as a consequence of Trump’s policies, even if they may not openly say so.
Visitors have chafed at the Republican president’s sweeping tariffs on foreign goods, broadsides against other countries, tightening immigration rules and portrayal of certain Democrat-led cities as ridden with crime.
Canadians “were asked to be the 51st state, right?” Atkeson said.
“If you talk to Canadians, many of them have chosen not to travel out of conscience” or on principle, he added.
Brazilian tourists meanwhile “can go anywhere they want,” he said. “And so they may have gone to Europe, they may have gone to the islands.”
‘Fear’
Thousands of kilometers away, the major resort city of Las Vegas in Nevada — boasting 150,000 hotel rooms — has also had a bad year.
Elsa Rodan, a chambermaid at the Bellagio resort and casino, says her establishment is “blessed” compared with others.
But even so, it has had to lower prices to attract guests, added Rodan, a representative of the Unite Here union who spoke at a Washington press conference.
Unite Here President Gwen Mills urges for a renewed effort to lobby the Trump administration over policies and rhetoric that she believes are jeopardizing the sector employing more than two million people.
According to her, hoteliers are not pushing the government enough.
Employers express “fear, the fear of picking your head up,” she said.
Hopefully ‘better’
Fewer visitors and overnight stays, alongside a drop in revenue, have triggered a $6.7 billion shortfall for Nevada hotels in 2025, according to the American Hotel and Lodging Association (AHLA).
But the organization hopes that 2026 will be a turning point — it is counting on the World Cup, from June 11 to July 19, to attract visitors.
Eleven US cities will be hosting matches.
“It’s being equated to having nearly 80 Super Bowls in just over a month,” AHLA spokesman Ralph Posner told AFP.
“The economic lift won’t be limited to host cities,” he added. “Destinations across the country are hoping to benefit as international visitors extend their trips and travel between markets.”
Las Vegas, for example, hopes to draw fans who might stop there before or after a game in Los Angeles or Kansas City.
Organizers say that besides the seven million spectators in stadiums, the World Cup is set to attract 20-30 million tourists.
The whole event, they believe, can generate $30 billion for the US economy.
“I hope that things will look better,” Atkeson said.
His Miami hotel is under renovations and cannot host much World Cup-related activity.
But his Washington establishments are highlighting their proximity to Philadelphia, where several matches will be held.
Another complication is war in the Middle East following US-Israeli strikes on Iran, which could snarl travel.
“It’s a little too soon to tell how we’re going to do with that, but we’ll see,” he said.