DUBAI: When she was planning her latest collection — which launched at Riyadh Fashion Week last Sunday — Saudi designer Honayda Serafi was thinking about Rayyanah Barnawi, the first Saudi female astronaut to go into space. Titled “Cosmos,” the collection was inspired by, and celebrates, the women who paved the way for Barnawi. Serafi referenced the horizon, moon, and stars when creating the collection’s purple, blue, and silver color palette.  

Serafi’s label Honayda’s show was one of the most anticipated at Riyadh Fashion Week. From being the first Saudi brand to be sold at London’s prestigious department store Harrods and multiple international celebrities sporting her designs, to creating Princess Rajwa’s pre-wedding henna night dress this year, the label has had tremendous success since its inception in 2017.  

Serafi was raised in Jeddah and attended Dar Al Hanan School – one of the country’s first schools for girls. Growing up, she traveled frequently with her family and loved experiencing different cultures.  

“I discovered that traveling gave me a great perspective on other people’s cultures, and I would often compare fashion, food, and music. It (engaged) the creativity in me,” says Serafi. And she was particularly fascinated by fashion magazines and the red carpet. “From a young age, I saw myself walking on the red carpet. Don’t ask me how. Don’t ask me when,” the designer says with a laugh.  

She fondly recalls her first independent shopping experience when she was 13. She was given 5,000 riyals (a little over $1,300) for a shopping spree and was escorted by one of her aunts to a department store.  

“It was such a ‘wow’ moment for me; to shop for my taste without being directed by my parents or older sister. I still remember everything I bought,” she says. 

Fashion often consumed her during her formative years, and she adds that any school or university project would somehow end up being fashion-focused.  

After completing high school, Serafi studied fine arts at King Abdulaziz University and later started working from home designing kaftans and abayas. However, that didn’t fulfill the vision she had for herself, so she decided to take the plunge and start her own label.  

“The circumstances, in the beginning, were not easy, especially with kids. And, back then, women weren’t allowed to travel for business. But I had made up my mind and decided I would do this.” Using her own savings, she launched her brand.  

She had no formal training so learned everything on the job. It wasn’t easy going. Serafi started the company with just two employees and traveled extensively for research and to find the right manufacturers and suppliers. It was all about trial and error, she explains.  

She initially started operations in Turkey, then moved to Saudi before finally setting up shop in Lebanon. “I made many mistakes on my journey. I would ask people in the fashion industry for help and guidance, and many of them were very limited in the information they would pass on. It was an emotional rollercoaster at times,” Serafi says. 

She adds that no one really believed in a Saudi woman who wanted to create a ready-to-wear brand. But she was determined to challenge the stereotype of being simply a consumer to become one of the players in the international market.  

In 2017, soon after the label was launched, she caught the attention of Egyptian musician and actress Angham, who purchased one of her dresses at a boutique in Cairo to wear to an event.  

“She wore the dress on stage and everyone called me, asking, ‘Honayda, is this your dress?’ It was such a surprise, and that’s when the brand started getting recognized among Arab celebrities.”  

International recognition was not far behind. When Serafi hosted an event in Paris for one of her capsule collections, she says, “The boutique invited many media members and celebrities, and more people wanted to get to know the brand.”  

Since then, it’s been a series of wins for the designer. Her celebrity fanbase is vast, from Priyanka Chopra to Lupita Nyongo and Injy El Mokkaddem.  

As a self-taught designer and entrepreneur, Serafi remembers the hardships she faced and actively supports emerging talent in the Kingdom. “I told myself early on that I would never be stingy in sharing my knowledge with anyone who wants to start a brand. Success isn’t only about me — it’s about the whole industry. I’m doing this now with the younger generation, especially Saudis.”  

Serafi proudly adds that she mentored five designers for Saudi 100 Brands, two of whom presented their collections in Milan this September.  

When we speak in mid-October, though, her focus is firmly on Riyadh Fashion Week.  

“I had multiple opportunities to present on international runways like Paris and New York, but it didn’t tempt me,” she says. “Since I took my first step in Saudi, I also wanted the second step (for the brand) to be on home ground. Hosting Honayda’s first runway show with the Fashion Commission and Ministry of Culture is an honor.”  

It is also, she says, an emotional moment for her; to participate in fashion week with all the other Saudi fashion designers building the local fashion industry.  

“The Fashion Commission is doing a tremendous job to shed light on our industry, and I see the effect of it. Riyadh Fashion Week isn’t the first thing to happen; it’s a continuation of the hard work that has been ongoing,” she says. “It’s time to shine and take it to the next level.”