Britain’s ‘coronation quiche’ gets a Middle Eastern twist to celebrate historic event

The royal household chose quiche as the coronation dish because it is considered a good ‘sharing’ dish to take to a street party and can be served hot or cold. (AFP/ Supplied)
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Updated 08 May 2023
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Britain’s ‘coronation quiche’ gets a Middle Eastern twist to celebrate historic event

  • Dubai chefs concoct Middle Eastern version of royal dish on occasion of Charles’s accession to British throne
  • The quiche is a nod to coronation chicken, a dish which was invented for the 1953 coronation of Queen Elizabeth II

DUBAI: The Arab world is gearing up to celebrate the coronation of King Charles III and Queen Camilla, with regional chefs preparing an Arab twist on the couple’s chosen coronation dish, a special quiche.

The dish, featuring spinach, broad beans and tarragon, is a nod to coronation chicken, a curry and mayonnaise-based dish which was invented for the 1953 coronation of Charles’ mother Queen Elizabeth II that is still enjoyed today.




Britain’s King Charles III (R) and Britain’s Camilla, Queen Consort arrive for the Easter Mattins Service at St. George’s Chapel, Windsor Castle on April 9, 2023. (AFP)

Coronation chicken, created by Cordon Bleu-trained chef Rosemary Hume, was named the “poulet Reine Elizabeth” and consists of cold poached chicken in a sauce made from red wine, mayonnaise, whipped cream, apricot purée and a touch of curry powder.

By the 1980s, an easier to make version of coronation chicken salad had become ubiquitous in Britain, found in ready-made sandwiches at many local stores across the country.

Now, cold shredded chicken, mayonnaise and a healthy heaping of curry powder are considered a staple form of the dish, while some recipes call for raisins and mango chutney for a sweet kick.




Coronation chicken vol-au-vents are served at a reception for Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II with representatives from local community groups to celebrate the start of the Platinum Jubilee on February 5, 2022. (AFP)

As the UK celebrates the new monarch, the royal household is hoping the “coronation quiche” will prove equally popular 70 years on.

Quiche was chosen because it is considered a good “sharing” dish to take to a street party and can be served hot or cold.

The palace said on its website that the dish had been chosen personally by Charles and Camilla, and was “easily adapted to different tastes and preferences,” presenting it as a recipe for hundreds of community lunches planned across the country to mark the May 6 event.

“A deep quiche with a crisp, light pastry case and delicate flavors of spinach, broad beans and fresh tarragon. Eat hot or cold with a green salad and boiled new potatoes,” said the recipe on the royal family’s website, which accompanied a video clip featuring a royal chef preparing the dish.




Marwan Sardouk has culinary experience that spans over 15 years. (Supplied)

Lebanese chef Marwan Sardouk, with culinary experience spanning 15 years, and chef Shelton D’Souza, of Dubai’s FireLake Grill House at the Radisson Blu hotel, have added an Arab twist to the dish.

Sardouk’s recipe, created for TV channel Fatafeat, is good for two to four people.

Sardouk’s quiche recipe:




Croque Madame in Quiche by Lebanese chef Marwan Sardouk. (Supplied)

Ingredients:

For the Mornay sauce:

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2/3 cup whole milk

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup shredded Gruyere Cheese

For the Croque madam:

300 grams quiche dough

2 tablespoon butter, softened

2 teaspoon whole grain mustard

1/2 cups mornay sauce

6 thin slices turkey ham

1 cup shredded gruyere, divided

For the egg:

1 tablespoon butter

2 large eggs

Salt flakes, for sprinkling

Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

Method:

For the Mornay:

Make the roux and add milk and salt and pepper as flavoring.

For the Croque madame:

Roll the dough on a flat surface with a rolling pin.

Shape it into a tall pie using a round ring mold.

Place all the filling and cover it with the remaining dough.

Bake it at 180 C for 15 to 20 minutes or until the dough is golden and comes loose from the ring mold.

Fry the eggs in a frying pan with butter and season it with salt.

Set aside the fried eggs for later use.

To finish off, place the egg on top of the pastry and garnish as you like.

D’Souza’s quiche recipe

This recipe serves four people.




Dubai’s FireLake Grill House in Radisson Blu hotel will served the dish at the eatery on coronation day from 1 to 4 p.m. (Supplied)

Ingredients

For the quiche mix:

300 grams spinach (cleaned, blanched and chopped)

25 grams of white onion (chopped)

5 grams of garlic (finely chopped)

140 grams of akawi cheese (grated)

30 grams of gruyere cheese

For the quiche pastry:

200 grams of flour T55

200 grams of butter

1 pasteurized egg white

30 grams of dry zaatar powder

10 grams of salt

25 milliliters of water

For the quiche custard:

200 milliliters of milk

100 milliliters of cooking cream

2 eggs

2 grams of cinnamon powder

5 grams of salt

2 grams of black pepper




Chef Shelton D’Souza at Dubai’s FireLake Grill House’s recipie serves four people. (Supplied)

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 162 C. Prepare the quiche dough then mix all the ingredients together and make a dough. Roll out the dough into a pie mold. Line a pie dish with short crust pastry, cutting off any excess and pinching the edges. Prick the bottom and all over the side. Bake the crust for 10 to 12 minutes until it becomes light brown.

In a medium frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Saute the garlic and onion in butter for about five minutes until lightly browned.

Add the blanched and chopped spinach. Taste the mixture then wait for it to cool before adding the akawi cheese. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pastry-lined dish.

In a medium bowl, whisk the custard mix. Season it with salt and pepper. Pour it into the pastry base, allowing the egg mixture to thoroughly combine with the spinach mixture.

Bake in a preheated oven for 15 minutes. Bake an additional 35 minutes, until it is set in the center. Allow the dish to cool for five minutes before serving.

 


The story behind Saudi artist Alia Ahmad’s alluring abstracts

Alia Ahmad's 'Alwasm' at the Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale in Riyadh. (Supplied)
Updated 16 May 2024
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The story behind Saudi artist Alia Ahmad’s alluring abstracts

  • Ahmad is garnering international attention, with two solo exhibitions in Europe  

RIYADH: Hanging at the Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale in Riyadh is a large canvas titled “Alwasm,” a 2023 painting by Saudi artist Alia Ahmad. It’s an instant showstopper. Guests on the opening night of the event, which runs until May 24, gathered around the painting, which was inspired by Wadi Hanifah in the Najd region of Riyadh, which is where the biennale is being staged. Commissioned for the event, the painting’s alluring warm tones and lively hues capture the titular period between October and December when the weather becomes cooler and there is respite from the arid desert heat.  

Ahmad is on a roll. Since graduating from London’s Royal College of Art with a Master’s in 2020, the 28-year-old Riyadh-based painter has staged several solo exhibitions in her home country and has increasingly garnered international attention for her abstract expressionist canvases that depict the natural and urban landscape of her home country. Ahmad says she considers paintings “social spaces” as well as “blueprints.” 

Alia Ahmad's 'Malga—The Place In Which We Gather,' which sold for $128,786 at auction this year. (Courtesy of Phillips)

“These paintings represent my version of the landscape,” Ahmad tells Arab News. “They include elements that may be references to birds or various color palettes that aren’t necessarily found in the landscape, but that represent how I view it. I’m addicted to incorporating my imagination.” 

The desert landscape, she stresses, “is not necessarily dry or empty. It has so much more.” And that is what she captures in the lush, lyrical brushstrokes of her abstract works, which are filled with references to local culture. “The traditional Arab bedouin dress is filled with color. As are the tents,” she says. “Women here have traditionally embellished their gowns. Where does this sense of vibrant creativity come from? The color and playfulness we imbue our traditional dress and items with comes from the landscape.” 

Ahmad recently staged her first solo exhibition in Europe. “Terhal Gheim (The Voyage of the Clouds)” runs at White Cube in Paris until May 18.  

On March 7 this year she sold her first work at auction at the Phillips 20th Century & Contemporary Art sale in London. Her painting “Malga — The Place in Which We Gather” sold for four times its estimate, bringing in a remarkable £101,600 (roughly SAR475,825). 

Ahmad's works on display in London's Albion Juene Gallery. (Gilbert McCarragher)

And on May 2, another solo exhibition — “Thought to Image” — opened in London at Albion Jeune. Running until June 12, the show presents Ahmad’s alluring abstract landscapes, inspired by the hues of traditional textiles created by Sadu weavers of Bedouin tribes and the Arabic calligraphic script known as khatt. 

“Much of my inspiration comes from textiles,” she explains. “At one point I was obsessed with buying pieces of fabric and making collages.”  

She also used to draw stick-figure cartoons as a child, she adds. Those amateur drawings were works in progress — an aspect Ahmad continues to enjoy in her practice. “I loved the idea of having a drawing in progress to then fill in the blanks of what the character might look like later,” she says.  

Ahmad’s paintings today are an amalgamation of various aspects of her homeland — its rich natural environment from the desert to the lush palm trees and other vegetation, local dress, jewelry and animals. She brings all of them together to depict in colorful abstract forms the richness of Saudi heritage, particularly that of her home region of Najd. 

Her works, as international gallerists and collectors have found, are rife with specific local details that connect in some way with people across the world, even if only by piquing their curiosity about a country that has only recently really opened up to visitors. 

Ultimately, Ahmad’s paintings serve as a unique reference point during a time of monumental social and economic change in the Kingdom, revealing and documenting a moment of both transformation and a desire to retain and promote Saudi’s rich heritage. 

Her imaginary landscapes also include flattened perspectives, nods to her previous training in digital graphics. They reflect the futuristic visages of the modern world coupled with the beauty of the undulating curves of the desert landscape and the colorful attributes of Arabian culture. 

Each painting takes the viewer on a voyage into a vibrant abstract world that echoes aspects of everyday reality. 

As Ahmad puts it: “They are all playful paintings and I make sure that each work and each show I stage retains that aspect of curiosity.” 


Recipes for Success: The St. Regis Red Sea Executive Sous Chef Skotarenko Artem on educating guests and experimentation 

Updated 16 May 2024
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Recipes for Success: The St. Regis Red Sea Executive Sous Chef Skotarenko Artem on educating guests and experimentation 

JEDDAH: The newly-opened The St. Regis Red Sea is home to several restaurants, including Middle Eastern restaurant Nesma, Japanese establishment Gishiki 45, and Tilina — a “floating” restaurant that serves a degustation menu. The resort’s executive sous chef, Skotarenko Artem, from Russia, oversees a team of 75. 

“Discipline is one of the most important things in the kitchen. I can say it’s one of the pillars. But relationships in the kitchen should be based on respect. If you shout at your employees, you can make people scared, but they will never respect you for it,” Artem tells Arab News. “Shouting is a thing of the past in the kitchen.” 

The St. Regis Red Sea Resort’s Tilina offers a degustation menu for its visitors. (Supplied)

Tilina, he says, is a “unique concept for Saudi Arabia.” 

“The degustation menu takes two to three hours. Not everyone can sit for this time and wait for the dishes. So, we try to educate the guests,” he explains. 

When you started out what was the most common mistake you made?  

I guess trying to repeat the dishes of celebrity chefs that I found online, from other parts of the world. And I was really upset with the results because they were below my expectations. That was because of products and seasonality, because every country has different produce and you can’t expect to get the same results in another country. 

What’s your top tip for amateurs? 

Don’t be afraid to experiment. If you find a nice recipe and you want to follow it, most likely you won’t have all the ingredients available at home. So use your imagination and, like this, you can achieve a great result. 

What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?  

Doesn’t matter where you’re cooking — it can be a restaurant or at home — love is the most important. 

What’s the most common mistake that you find in other restaurants? 

I’m actually not very picky when I go out. But, for me, the most common issue is seasoning. It’s very easy to spoil a dish if you have poor seasoning; it becomes flat and, actually, it is dead. 

What’s your favorite cuisine?  

When I go out, I’m always looking for something unusual and interesting that I’m not familiar with. It helps to keep your mind open. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?  

I don’t actually cook at home very often. But I’ll always have fresh bread in and a piece of good quality cheese. Along with them, I have all these different kinds of preserves and pickled vegetables. So, if I have to do something quick at home, I’d make a nice Cuban-style sandwich. 

What customer behavior most annoys you?  

Actually, there’s a long list. But what really annoys me is when guests leave the table without valid excuses when the dishes are ready to serve. Because then you need to remake the dish. It’s a disservice to all the other guests in the restaurant. 

What’s your favorite dish to cook?   

Where I’m from, it tends to get very cold. So, I love to make rich soups of all kinds. But they tend to take a lot of time and patience. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?  

Actually, I’m really flexible and adaptable. For me, everything is possible if you’re focused and committed to it. 

RECIPE 
Chef Skotarenko’s cured mackerel, salted laminaria, and dill kefir sauce 

INGREDIENTS 

For the brine: 1L water; 80g sea salt; 30g brown sugar; 1 garlic clove; 10g dill; 30g sunflower oil (or your preferred flavor of oil); 2g black pepper; 2g bay leaves 

INSTRUCTIONS 

1. Place a whole mackerel (300-400g) in the brine and leave overnight. 

2. Place 500g fresh laminaria in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Strain the water and repeat the process three times. 

3. Wash the laminaria in cold water, sprinkle with 5g sea salt, and refrigerate overnight. 

4. Slice 500g fresh cucumber. Mix with 50g olive oil, a pinch of salt, and 20g apple cider vinegar. Refrigerate overnight. 

5. Mix 500g kefir (or laban if you prefer) with 30g lemon juice, 5g finely chopped garlic, 5g salt, and 2g white pepper. 

6. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add 500g dill. Remove after 10 seconds and place in ice-cold water. Blend the dill with 500g olive oil until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve. 

7. Plate all the ingredients separately and serve. 


Haifaa Al-Mansour hopes to show ‘fire and bravery’ of Saudi women in Nike campaign film

Updated 16 May 2024
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Haifaa Al-Mansour hopes to show ‘fire and bravery’ of Saudi women in Nike campaign film

DUBAI: For Nike’s first Saudi campaign “What If You Can?” the US athletic brand collaborated with acclaimed Saudi filmmaker Haifaa Al-Mansour. 

Shot in Riyadh, the film aims to inspire young girls in the Kingdom to try sporting activities, and Al-Mansour brought a level of craft and authenticity deeply rooted in Saudi culture to the project, as she has done throughout her career. Her groundbreaking debut feature, 2012’s “Wadjda,” which premiered at the Venice Film Festival, was a love letter to the young girls of Saudi Arabia. 

“I really feel a responsibility to try and represent the world I grew up in as authentically as possible to audiences at home and abroad. I want to start conversations at home about issues that are important to us, while at the same time providing a window to our world to people who have never had access to it before,” Al-Mansour tells Arab News. 

“I think it is very important to make a film that shows international audiences what life is really like in Saudi Arabia, as there are very few opportunities for them to see it otherwise. Even with ‘Wadjda,’ I heard from a lot of foreign audiences that were surprised by how strong and sassy Saudi women actually are. There is this perception that we are weak and shy and afraid of the world, and that we are just victims, resigned to the limited, restrictive circumstances of our culture. It is so not true. Saudi women are so tough, feisty, funny, and way more savvy than most people realize. I hope this (Nike campaign) further captures the fire and bravery of women from my country. Telling their stories is the honor and privilege of my life.” 

Her work on the new campaign reminded Al-Mansour just how dramatic the changes in the Kingdom have been over the past decade. 

“It was incredibly difficult to make a film in 2011. People were still very hesitant to embrace any public form of artistic expression,” she says. “Film, especially, was seen as taboo, and the idea of opening theaters had become a red line that most of us thought would never be crossed. Of course, now everything is different. 

“For my first film I couldn’t work with the men in public, so I had to direct from a van,” she continues. “Being allowed to mix with my crew and be fully immersed in this production was amazing. It was also very exciting to have so many enthusiastic young Saudis working on the set. They are the future of the industry, and to see them giving their all was very special for me. We have a long way to go in building local expertise, but the enthusiasm is there. It’s an exciting time to be a Saudi filmmaker.” 

For Al-Mansour, the Nike ad campaign is a natural extension of her work as a filmmaker.   

 “It feels like a dream to shoot a commercial encouraging Saudi women to participate in sport, with an all-female cast, in Saudi Arabia. While I love working in the West, there is a much deeper sense of pride and emotion for me when taking on projects shot in KSA. I feel such a strong connection to this story and these issues, it is very emotional for me,” she says. 

Al-Mansour credits her parents for her creative spirit. “My father was a poet and philosopher who thought far beyond the borders of the tiny town he was from. And my mother is a free spirit. They never listened to people who criticized their way of life, and never limited opportunities for their children. It is incredibly brave to stand up for what you believe in, and neither of them ever backed down,” she says. 

As for her legacy, Al-Mansour hopes to “encourage women to always push boundaries and look for new opportunities. I want to make films that show people adjusting to change and struggling through it the way we all have to. It isn’t easy for anyone. If I hear that this project encouraged someone to go out and try a sport for the first time, not knowing if they would even be able to do it, that would be the most rewarding thing I can imagine.” 


Saudi Arabia’s Wadi AlFann Publications launches art books after Venice showcase

Updated 16 May 2024
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Saudi Arabia’s Wadi AlFann Publications launches art books after Venice showcase

DUBAI: AlUla-based Wadi AlFann Publications has launched two books — Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan’s “Oasis of Stories” and US artist Mark Dion’s “The Desert Field Guide.” 

“Oasis of Stories” showcases drawings collected from AlDowayan’s participatory workshops with communities throughout AlUla, engaging over 700 Saudi women, leading up to her participation as the Kingdom’s representative at this year’s Venice Biennale.  

The artworks, which were also displayed at the biennale, portray various aspects of the women’s lives, reflecting the rich tapestry of their culture and identity. 

Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan. (Supplied)

Dion’s book assists “visitors and locals in unlocking the vast natural history of (AlUla) as well as its growing status as a cultural site,” he told Arab News.  

“The deserts of AlUla are places of astonishing beauty and uncanny life forms,” Dion added. “The guide playfully, and at times mischievously, places Wadi AlFann in a global context, while highlighting unique life forms visitors might encounter. I am really trying to encourage a sense of wonder by emphasizing that the more you know about the desert, the more marvelous it becomes.” 

AlDowayan and Dion hosted a panel discussion at the biennale last month and delved into their new launches, exploring how participation is fundamental to their practice as well as delivering insights on the desert. 

Wadi AlFann’s Venice showcase featured the first five artists commissioned for the upcoming ‘cultural destination’ — AlDowayan, Agnes Denes, Michael Heizer, Ahmed Mater and James Turrell. They are producing artworks for eponymous AlUla valley, covering an area of 65 square kilometers. The project is scheduled to open its doors to visitors in late 2026. 

AlDowayan told Arab News: “The most beautiful thing I have realized (at the Venice Biennale) … is the humanity we share and the language that we are trying to bring, about care, about climate change, and about preserving our languages and not really looking to the Western canon of how we are defined.” 


Christie’s to stage retrospective of Saudi artist Ahmed Mater in London

Updated 16 May 2024
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Christie’s to stage retrospective of Saudi artist Ahmed Mater in London

DUBAI: Christie’s auction house has announced the first mid-career retrospective of Saudi artist Ahmed Mater.

The show, titled “Ahmed Mater: Chronicles” will take place at Christie’s headquarters in London, from July 17 – Aug. 22.

Curated by Dr. Ridha Moumni, Chairman, Christie’s Middle East and Africa, the exhibition will trace Ahmed Mater’s career and will include works across various mediums, including photography, videos, paintings, sculptures and installations. 

“It is especially poignant for me to exhibit in London almost 20 years after the first presentation of my work outside Saudi Arabia at the British Museum, in 2005. I am thrilled with the opportunity to reconnect with the city and its dynamic art community through this immersive and comprehensive exhibition of my practice,” the artist said in a released statement.

Moumni added: “His artistic responses to the swift transformations within Saudi Arabia’s complex social and cultural context invite us to discover fascinating narratives of an evolving land and reflect on its multifaceted identity.’”