RIYADH: Sometimes it seems like the gaudiness of a restaurant’s interior is inversely proportional to the quality of the food.

That is why when I am dragged along to an eatery where the staff are dressed in ill-fitting waistcoats, where oversized chandeliers dangle precariously above diners, where faded tablecloths clash with faux vintage wallpaper, my expectations of enjoying a quality meal plummet.

While it is not a hard-and-fast rule, I often happily find that the simpler a restaurant presents itself to customers, the better the food.

These are my favorite kinds of restaurants, the ones that let the food speak for itself.

Lahori Village in Riyadh’s King Fahd district fits comfortably into this second category.

Though clean and comfortable, it is an unfussy establishment with few frills that does one thing very well: serve hearty, authentic and delicious Pakistani cuisine.

The mutton karahi is swimming in flavor — soft delectable chunks of meat in a rich sauce with a ginger tang.

The freshly baked garlic naan has a perfect hint of crunch giving way to soft dough perfect for soaking up a sauce.

The special fish barbecue is another highlight, with expertly balanced spice and sweetness.

Not every dish is available every day, so if you are after something in particular make sure to check the menu ahead of time.

But that limitation does not seem to put off customers, the place has been bustling with activity every time I have visited.

The cool kheer was a fantastic way to close off the meal — a light, sweet offering that leaves little to be desired.

And in a city rife with eye-watering prices, Lahori Village is a welcome respite, with the bill unlikely to upset most diners.

It is an all-round honest offering to the punters of Riyadh and well worth a visit.