In Pakistan’s north, celebrating Eid Al-Fitr with a centuries-old stew

A group of friends gather to celebrate Eid Al-Fitr and eat rdoong balay in Khaplu valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, on May 3, 2022. (AN Photo)
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Updated 05 May 2022
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In Pakistan’s north, celebrating Eid Al-Fitr with a centuries-old stew

  • No Eid feast in Gilgit-Baltistan complete without rdoong balay, made of ground wheat, potatoes, meat and spices
  • Though exact origins of the dish are unknown, historians say it has been cooked in the region for centuries

KHAPLU, Gilgit-Baltistan: For residents of Pakistan’s northern Gilgit-Baltistan region, Eid Al-Fitr celebrations are incomplete without ‘rdoong balay,’ a traditional dish that is a staple on the festival that marks the end of the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan.
As Eid rolls in, the stew made of stone ground wheat, potatoes, blue and black peas and spices, is cooked in almost every household in the northern valley.
“It’s a delicious cuisine of Baltistan region which is made by nearly every family on Eid Al-Fitr,” Muhammad Iqbal Balti, a senior journalist and cartoonist from the northern region, told Arab News on Tuesday. “Without rdoong balay, there is no enjoyment.”
“I am 68 years old,” he added. “Before the 1980s, rdoong balay was cooked by families almost every week. Now it is only made on special occasions, particularly Eid Al-Fitr.”




This picture, taken on May 3, 2020, shows bowls of rdoong balay, a traditional dish that is a staple of Eid Al-Fitr celebrations in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. (AN Photo)

59-year-old Fatima, who identified herself by her first name only, said she had been making the dish since she was a child. 
“When I was young and unmarried, my mother would ask me to grind wheat a day before Eid,” she said. “The cuisine becomes tastier when we use locally produced wheat and barley.”
Asked about her recipe, Fatima said she first thrashed wheat or barley with a locally made stone pestle and then poured it into a pot of boiling water. Small pieces of meat, potatoes and peas as well as spices were added next and the mixture was left to simmer for about half an hour.




A woman grinds wheat in preparation to cook the traditional rdoong balay dish for Eid Al-Fitr in Khaplu valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, on May 2, 2022. (AN Photo)

Hassan Hasrat, a local historian, told Arab News rdoong balay was made in almost every corner of the Baltistan valley, and also cooked by people who hailed from the region but lived elsewhere in Pakistan or around the world.
He said there was no written record about the origins of the dish and it was therefore difficult to determine its history or development over time.
“However, I can confidently say that this is a centuries-old dish,” Hasrat said. “This cuisine is for cold regions since it helps battle chilly weather. Almost all local dishes in Gilgit-Baltistan are suitable for cold areas.”


Pakistan’s HIV response under strain as global donors cut funding

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Pakistan’s HIV response under strain as global donors cut funding

  • Only 21% of people living with HIV in Pakistan know their status, just 18% receive treatment
  • UN agencies and civil society warn domestic funding must rise as international aid shrinks

ISLAMABAD: Funding reductions by international donors have forced sharp cutbacks in HIV prevention and support services across Pakistan, officials and experts say, raising fears that years of progress in reaching vulnerable populations could be reversed even as infections continue to rise.

Pakistan’s HIV response remains heavily dependent on financing from the Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria (GFFATM), which has supported the country’s HIV programs for nearly two decades. The Global Fund reduced Pakistan’s total allocation from $250.8 million to $223.6 million under its Grant Cycle 7 (2023–2025), cutting $4 million from the national HIV/AIDS component.

The United Nations Development Program (UNDP), which has served as the principal recipient of Global Fund financing since 2021, says the funding squeeze has already begun to affect outreach services for key populations.

Pakistan’s HIV epidemic remains small in absolute numbers compared with global hotspots, but it is one of the fastest-growing in Asia. UNAIDS has repeatedly warned that Pakistan is among the few countries where new HIV infections continue to rise, driven largely by low testing rates and infections concentrated among marginalized communities. This makes sustained prevention and outreach funding critical to preventing a wider public health crisis.

“The steady supply of quality-assured anti-retroviral drugs is our number one priority,” Richard Cunliffe, GFFATM project manager at UNDP Pakistan, told Arab News.
“So the impact of the cuts has really been felt by community-based organizations doing outreach to key population groups.”

During the previous grant cycle, UNDP supported the expansion of HIV treatment by helping the government establish around 98 antiretroviral therapy (ART) centers across Pakistan. Under the current cycle, its role has narrowed largely to prevention among key populations and procurement of HIV medicines due to tighter funding.

“These are highly marginalized communities... so the more cuts there are, the fewer people we can reach,” Cunliffe said.

‘TOTALLY DEPENDENT’

According to estimates from the Joint United Nations Program on HIV/AIDS (UNAIDS), around 350,000 people are living with HIV in Pakistan. Yet only 21 percent know their status and just 18 percent of those diagnosed are receiving treatment.

Civil society groups warn the situation is more fragile than official figures suggest.

“The HIV response in Pakistan is totally dependent on Global Fund funding,” said Asghar Satti, national coordinator of the Association of People Living with HIV (APLHIV). “There is no meaningful domestic funding, and international donors have also reduced their support.”

Satti pointed to the Global Fund’s upcoming 2027–2029 replenishment cycle, where donor pledges have fallen more than $6 billion short of the $18 billion target.

“When cuts happen globally, treatment is always prioritized,” he said. “But testing, counselling, prevention and community services are the first to suffer.”

He warned that some community organizations in Pakistan have already faced budget cuts of 40–45%, forcing closures of services such as food assistance, medical support and prevention programs.

“These are people who are already vulnerable. If those services disappear, the gains made over the last 20 to 25 years are at serious risk,” Satti said.

A government official, who did not wish to be named, said HIV response and prevention were “high priority” areas for the government and that it was doing its “best to bridge the gap.”

The impact of declining funds is already visible on the ground.

Muhammad Usman, a representative of the Dareecha Health Society working with male and transgender individuals living with HIV, said funding cuts over the past year had forced the group to drastically scale back operations.

“At one point, Dareecha had three offices and around 70 staff members,” he said. “Now those three offices have merged into one, and we are left with about 30 people.”

Outreach in cities such as Bahawalpur has stopped entirely, according to Usman.

“These were technical people from within the community, outreach workers, counsellors, who understood the realities on the ground,” he said.

“When they were let go, awareness and engagement dropped immediately.”

DOMESTIC FINANCING 

Health experts warn that reduced outreach could further weaken Pakistan’s already fragile testing and treatment cascade, increasing the risk of undiagnosed infections and onward transmission.

“When fewer people are tested, more infections remain hidden,” Satti said. “That creates a serious public health risk.”

These pressures are compounded by deep-rooted stigma and the absence of sustained public awareness campaigns.

“HIV and people living with HIV are highly stigmatized and vulnerable,” Cunliffe said.
“It’s a very difficult disease because the disease is very much concentrated in these key population groups… which is often very criminalized and stigmatized.”

Modern antiretroviral therapy allows people living with HIV to lead normal lives and suppress viral loads, preventing transmission and enabling HIV-positive women to give birth to HIV-negative children.

“No one needs to die of HIV anymore,” Cunliffe said.

But with international funding expected to decline further after 2027, UNDP and civil society groups say Pakistan urgently needs to increase domestic financing to sustain its HIV response.

“The government is really going to have to bridge that gap and find ways to domestically finance [HIV response],” Cunliffe added.