For Bangladeshi garment exporters, business as usual with Russia despite sanctions

People work in a garment factory in Gazipur, Bangladesh. The textile sector contributes over 11 percent of the country’s gross domestic product. (AFP)
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Updated 30 April 2022
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For Bangladeshi garment exporters, business as usual with Russia despite sanctions

  • Textile sector is No. 1 industry in Bangladesh, accounting for 80 percent of its exports
  • Russia is a growing destination for Bangladeshi producers and last year imported garments worth about $600 million

DHAKA: Bangladeshi garment exports to Russia have not been disrupted by international sanctions on Moscow, businessmen say, as most of their transactions are made through third countries. 

The textile sector is the No. 1 industry in Bangladesh, employing over 4 million people, contributing over 11 percent of the country’s gross domestic product and accounting for 80 percent of its exports.

Russia is a growing destination for Bangladeshi producers and last year imported garments worth about $600 million.

When a host of Western sanctions hit Moscow, following its invasion of Ukraine in February, some Russian banks were banned from the Swift system.

Bangladeshi exporters were initially jittery about the future of their trade, but so far their businesses have not been largely affected, as according to the central bank, most of the transactions are not settled directly with Russia. 

“Apart from the Russian banks under sanctions, transactions with other Russian banks are going on normally. Besides, for doing business with Russia, our exporters don’t always need to have contact with Russia,” Serajul Islam, executive director and spokesperson of the Bangladesh Bank, told Arab News in a recent interview, adding that most of the country’s readymade garment business transactions have been through Hong Kong for many years.

“Last year, we had around $600 million in garment exports with Russia. Of this, $450 million payments were settled through Singapore, and the rest of the amount was paid through some other third countries.”

Arshad Jamal Khan, chairman of Tusuka Fashions Ltd., which supplies Melon Fashion Group — one of the biggest players in the Russian fashion market — is regularly receiving payments from his buyers in US dollars and through Swift.

“Most of our payments are being done through the Hong Kong Shanghai Banking Corp.,” Khan said. “In 2022, we are expecting to exceed the exports of the last year. And hopefully, it will be more than $4 million since work orders worth $2.87 million are already in the pipeline.”

Sourav Chowdhury, chief executive of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, told Arab News that exporters have been “mostly receiving export payments like before.”

“In the context of the ongoing Ukraine war, our exports to the Russian market are a little interrupted but not yet stalled,” he said. “Shipments that are being delivered through European ports are getting delayed or interrupted in some cases. But still, we have been able to send goods to Russia.”

Chowdhury was not certain, however, how long Bangladesh would be able to sustain its trade with Russia.

“In case of a prolonged war, our garment exports to Russia will be interrupted a lot. At the moment, we are looking at the decisions taken by the global financial regulators,” he added.

“It’s a fluid situation amid this war, and everything depends on the geopolitical situation.”


Dreams on hold for Rohingya children in Bangladesh camps

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Dreams on hold for Rohingya children in Bangladesh camps

  • Around half a million children live in the camps housing the waves of Rohingya who have escaped Myanmar in recent years, many during a brutal military crackdown in 2017

COX’S BAZAR: Books tucked under their arms, children file into a small classroom in Bangladesh’s vast refugee camps, home to more than a million Rohingya who have fled neighboring Myanmar.

“They still dream of becoming pilots, doctors or engineers,” said their teacher Mohammad Amin, standing in front of a crowded schoolroom in Cox’s Bazar.

“But we don’t know if they will ever reach their goals with the limited opportunities available.”

Around half a million children live in the camps housing the waves of Rohingya who have escaped Myanmar in recent years, many during a brutal military crackdown in 2017. The campaign, which saw Rohingya villages burned and civilians killed, is the subject of a genocide case at the UN top court in The Hague, where hearings opened on Monday.

In the aftermath of the 2017 exodus, international aid groups and UNICEF, the UN’s children’s agency, rushed to open schools.

By 2024, UNICEF and its partners were running more than 6,500 learning centers across the Cox’s Bazar camps, educating up to 300,000 children. But the system is severely overstretched. “The current system provides three hours of instruction per day for children,” said Faria Selim of UNICEF. “The daily contact hours are not enough.”

Khin Maung, a member of the United Council of Rohingya which represents refugees in the camps, said the education on offer leaves students ill-prepared to re-enter Myanmar’s school system should they return. “There is a severe shortage of teachers in the camps,” he said.

Hashim Ullah, 30, is the only teacher at a primary school run by an aid agency.

“I teach Burmese language, mathematics, science and life skills to 65 students in two shifts. I am not an expert in all subjects,” he said.

Such shortcomings are not lost on parents. For them, education represents their children’s only escape from the risks that stalk camp life — malnutrition, early marriage, child labor, trafficking, abduction or forced recruitment into one of the armed groups in Myanmar’s civil war.

As a result, some families supplement the aid-run schools with extra classes organized by members of their own community.

“At dawn and dusk, older children go to community-based high schools,” said father-of-seven Jamil Ahmad.

“They have good teachers,” and the only requirement is a modest tuition fee, which Jamil said he covered by selling part of his monthly food rations.

“Bangladesh is a small country with limited opportunities,” he said. “I’m glad that they have been hosting us.”

Fifteen-year-old Hamima Begum has followed the same path, attending both an aid-run school and a community high school.

“I want to go to college,” she said. “I am aiming to study human rights, justice, and peace — and someday I will help my community in their repatriation.”

But such schools are far too few to meet demand, especially for older children.

A 2024 assessment by a consortium of aid agencies and UN bodies concluded that school attendance falls from about 70 percent among children aged five to 14, to less than 20 percent among those aged 15 to 18.

Girls are particularly badly affected, according to the study.