Shadow of exiled hangs over Aleppo souk

People walk through the reopened Khan Al-Harir souk in Aleppo. (AFP)
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Updated 08 September 2021
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Shadow of exiled hangs over Aleppo souk

  • Khan Al-Harir or silk souk attracted thousands of tourists and merchants before the onset of Syria’s conflict in 2011

ALEPPO: The historic Khan Al-Harir souk in war-torn Syria’s erstwhile economic capital of Aleppo has reopened following restoration work, but much of the former workforce that energized it remains exiled.
“Reconstruction works are done and this is great, but it’s not enough,” said Ahmed Al-Shib, a 55-year-old textile merchant who had hoped to pass his business onto his sons.
“What we want is for our sons to return to these stores,” he said during the reopening of the covered market this week, showing pictures he had sent to his eldest who moved to Algeria three years ago to join his brother.
Khan Al-Harir (silk souk) — one of 37 markets surrounding Aleppo’s famed citadel — attracted thousands of tourists and merchants before the onset of Syria’s conflict in 2011.
It was hit hard in fighting between rebels and regime forces that damaged as much as 60 percent of Aleppo’s Old City, according to estimates by the UN’s cultural agency, UNESCO.
The market officially reopened on Sunday — five years after the Syrian government regained control of Aleppo.
Restoration works erased traces of some of the conflict’s most brutal battles but it did little to console traders who have lost much more than just their stores.
In Ahmed’s fabric shop, a portrait of his father — the founder of the family business — adorns a freshly painted wall.
Like many others in Khan Al-Harir, Ahmed fears the family’s store may die with him.
“My children live in Algeria, and the children of other traders are scattered between Egypt, Irbil” in northern Iraq and elsewhere, he said.
“There are a lot of trades that will be threatened if our sons continue to emigrate.”
Syria’s conflict has killed nearly half a million people, forced half of the pre-war population from their homes, and decimated the economy and infrastructure, with more than 80 percent of its residents now living below the poverty line.
As a result, Aleppo, long considered one of Syria’s main commercial hubs, has lost many of the merchants and businessmen who once gave the city its economic edge.
Many have sought business opportunities elsewhere, with neighboring Iraq and Turkey popular destinations.
Ahmed Al-Damlakhi took over a fabric shop in Khan Al-Harir from his brother who emigrated to Turkey with his children several years ago.
Under a freshly renovated arch dotted with white and black stones, the 65-year-old greeted neighbors he hadn’t seen in years.
He started a video call with his brother in Turkey to show the scene in the market, where traders had gathered outside their shops amid a trickle of customers.
“I am optimistic about the reopening of the market ... but we are missing merchants and investors who are now scattered across the Arab world and have established businesses there,” he said.
Although he wished his brother was with him to celebrate the reopening, Damlakhi said the reasons that initially pushed him out had not changed.
“We used to depend on tourists and visitors coming from the countryside and other provinces ... but the economic situation is now very difficult,” he said.
“Western sanctions, meanwhile, create obstacles in relation to imports, exports and overall trade,” Damlakhi added.
“So long as the situation doesn’t change, it will be hard for my brother and his sons to return.”
The vast souks, the oldest of their kind in the world, stretch from the western part of the Old City to the gates of the citadel in the east, covering an area of around 160,000 square meters. For centuries, they were the commercial heart of the ancient city and served as a key trading hub between the East and the West.
Restoration works began two years ago after Syrian authorities signed a partnership agreement with the Aga Khan Foundation in Syria. The renovation of Khan Al-Harir — home to some 60 stores — took around a year to complete, and preparations are underway for two other markets to also be restored.
“The area was a pile of destruction, and today we can say that the market’s infrastructure has been completely rehabilitated,” said Jean Moughamez of the Syria Trust for Development, a government-linked agency overseeing restoration works.
But the exodus of traders poses a challenge, he admitted.
“We’ve had difficulty communicating with shop owners who are outside Syria, especially those who do not have an agent taking care of their shop affairs,” Moughamez said. “We cannot work alone, and we need everyone’s cooperation.”


Sudan recovers 570 artefacts looted during war

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Sudan recovers 570 artefacts looted during war

PORT SUDAN: Sudanese authorities displayed ancient figurines, ornate vases and scarab-shaped amulets at a ceremony Tuesday in Port Sudan celebrating the recovery of more than 570 antiquities stolen from the national museum during the country’s long-running war.
The artefacts, arranged on large tables under heavy security, were recovered after months of investigation and brought to the wartime capital of Port Sudan.
The National Museum in Khartoum, which housed some of Sudan’s most important archaeological collections, was looted and badly damaged after the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) seized the capital in the early days of its war with the army, its former ally.
At the time, satellite images showed trucks carrying artefacts west, toward the vast region of Darfur — now completely under RSF control.
Since then, Sudanese authorities have worked with UNESCO and Interpol to track down the stolen items.
Authorities did not detail on Tuesday exactly how the artefacts were recovered.
“Sudan heritage is not only of national importance, it is a treasure of humanity,” said UNESCO’s representative in Sudan, Ahmed Junaid, referring to international efforts to combat illicit trafficking of cultural property.
“Many people do not know the value of the objects displayed on the tables, but they reflect the identity of the nation and its history,” said Sudan’s finance minister Gibril Ibrahim.
Khalid Aleisir, minister of information and culture announced a “financial reward” for anyone returning antiquities to the authorities, without specifying an amount.
Officials estimate that the recovered items account for about 30 percent of the objects looted from the museum.
Still missing are the contents of the so-called “gold room,” the museum’s most valuable collection, which included ancient jewelry and 24-carat gold pieces, some nearly 8,000 years old.