Rare books shed light on history of the Arab world

Book dealer Peter Harrington’s latest catalogue will be represented at the Abu Dhabi Book Fair later this month. (Supplied)
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Updated 14 May 2021
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Rare books shed light on history of the Arab world

  • Regional highlights from the latest catalogue of rare book dealer Peter Harrington, which will be represented at the Abu Dhabi Book Fair later this month

A visual record of a Jeddah landmark

This “apparently unique” bespoke album contains 120 original photographs of Jeddah’s well-known Bayt Nassif, taken before its restoration in the early 1980s. The Saudi government purchased this historic landmark in 1975 and initially used as a library, but it is now a cultural center that hosts exhibitions and other events. King Faisal’s decision to rehabilitate the building “provided an enlightening and inspiring model for sustainability in historic areas,” according to a book cited in the Peter Harrington catalogue.

Located on the main street of Jeddah’s historic Al-Balad district, the house was built for the then-governor of Jeddah, Sheikh Umar Effendi Al-Nassif between 1872 and 1881 and is now, the catalogue states, “widely recognized as one of the most important surviving examples of Red Sea coralline limestone architecture.” The house was later used by King Abdulaziz bin Saud as his primary residence in the city until Khuzam Palace was constructed.

Until the 1920s, Bayt Nassif was also the site of the only tree in Jeddah’s old city — so the building is also known locally as The House of the Tree. That neem tree still survives and can be seen in images in this book.

Account of a 19th-century journey from Jeddah to Egypt

In 1819, Sir Miles Nightingall, commander-in-chief of Britain’s Bombay Army, was returning to England from India when their ship “Teignmouth” was grounded on a sandbank in the Gulf of Aden. Having got their boat moving again, Nightingall and his entourage — including Captain James Hanson, the author of this work — headed to Jeddah “where they were welcomed by the Turkish governor, newly installed following the restoration of Ottoman rule in Egypt. Having taken advice from Henry Salt, consul-general in Egypt, they decided on an overland route across the desert that would take in the ‘most interesting and marvelous ruins’ at Thebes.” Hanson’s book describes — and maps — their journey from Kosseir (now Quseer) on the Red Sea westwards inland to Kennah (Qena) on the Nile, just east of Dendera “passing ruined forts, ‘Hills having the appearance of Tombs’ and ‘Sterile Desert - not a blade of Vegetation.’”

Journals of a British naval officer in the Arabian Gulf 1928-51

This three-volume manuscript relate to Midshipman Francis Wyatt Rawson Larken’s service in the British Royal Navy in the early-to-mid 20th century, for part of which Larken was stationed in the Arabian Gulf around what the British then called the Trucial States, which later became the UAE. The books were unpublished at the time, and according to the catalogue, include “a compelling account of a visit to Dubai and an on-board reception for the Trucial Sheikhs.”  Those visitors would have included Sheikh Saeed bin Maktoum Al-Maktoum of Dubai, Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan Al-Nahyan of Abu Dhabi, and Sheikh Sultan bin Saqr Al-Qasimi of Sharjah, among others.

“There were some 8 or 10 of the higher cast (sic.) on board and these were taken round the ship by the Admiral and the Captain while their followers stayed on the Quarter Deck. … They all then congregated on the Quarter Deck where the band played. They then left in their respective barges — ornate and rather splendid motor dhows, the various Sheikhs receiving salutes — the number of guns ranging from 6 to 1 in ratio to their importance. They brought us gifts of Beef and Melon Jelly … and were sent away with Gold Flake Cigarettes and chocolate,” Larken writes. “Every man carries his broad curved belt knife — heavily set with worked silver — and the chief ones wore splendid ‘Bournous’ of gold work cloth. All were fine upstanding men very much like the Sheik of fiction.”

During his service, Larken also visited Aden, Muscat, Sohar, Sur, Khasab and Khor al-Jarama in modern Oman, as well as Dubai and the island of Sir Abu Nu’ayr in what is now the UAE.

British intelligence manual from the time of the ‘Arab Revolt’

This manual includes material from T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) and was produced by the British Arab Bureau as a guide to the “tribal and political organization, geography and passable routes in the region” at the time of the military uprising by Arab forces against the Ottoman Empire during World War I, led by Hussein bin Ali, the sherif of Makkah, backed by the British government. One of the “passable routes” that Lawrence himself gave information on was that from Madinah to Makkah.

This copy previously belonged to William Cochrane, deputy to Colonely Cyril Wilson, the British Agent at Jeddah. Among Cochrane’s duties was the organization of the Hajj for Muslims from British India, and he reportedly “took charge of the £125,000 in gold sovereigns that was brought to Jeddah each month by the Red Sea Patrol of the Royal Navy” — Hussein’s subsidy from the British for the uprising.

Eyewitness account of a Danish expedition to Arabia in the 1760s

An English translation of a two-volume account of the 1761-7 Danish expedition to the region — “the first great scientific expedition to the Middle East” — by the surveyor Carsten Niebuhr, the only member of that expedition to survive.

“The party left Copenhagen in early 1761, travelling via Constantinople to Alexandria and spending a year in Egypt, ascending the Nile and exploring Sinai. They then crossed from Suez to Jeddah and sailed down the Arabian coast to al-Luhayyah in Yemen, making frequent landfalls, before continuing overland to Sana’a via Mocha, with two members of the party dying en route. On returning to Mocha, the remaining four collapsed with fever and were put on a ship bound for Bombay, with only Niebuhr surviving the sea voyage.”

Niebuhr’s account of the trip, the catalogue says, “has long been considered one of the classic accounts of the geography, people, antiquities and archaeology of the Arabian Peninsula and wider Middle East, with maps which remained in use for over 100 years” and is “a singularly important account of the Gulf in this still-obscure period.”

A chronicle of traditional Arab seamanship

The full title of this work from 1940 is “Sons of Sinbad. An Account of Sailing with the Arabs in their Dhows, in the Red Sea, around the Coasts of Arabia, and to Zanzibar and Tanganyika; Pearling in the Persian Gulf; and the Life of the Shipmasters, the Mariners and Merchants of Kuwait.” As it suggests, the book — written by Australian adventurer Alan Villiers — is a comprehensive account of traditional seamanship, boat building and trade in the region at a time when those traditions were coming to an end with the discovery of oil. It includes dozens of illustrations from photographs and charts too.


Saudi Arabia announces Red Sea Fashion Week

Updated 02 May 2024
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Saudi Arabia announces Red Sea Fashion Week

DUBAI: The Kingdom is all set to host the inaugural Red Sea Fashion Week. Set against the waters of Ummahat Island, the glitzy event is scheduled to take place from May 16-18 at The St. Regis Red Sea Resort.

Red Sea Fashion Week, which is organized by the Saudi Fashion Commission, will showcase local and international designers. It aims to celebrate the fusion of traditional Saudi aesthetics with cutting-edge contemporary design.

Among the highlights will be the participation of Saudi 100 Brands, an initiative spearheaded by the Fashion Commission to support and promote emerging local talent.

Saudi Arabia played host to its first fashion week in 2023, in Riyadh. The event took place in the King Abdullah Financial District from Oct. 20-23 and set the stage for a new fashion capital in the Middle East.
 


Bella Hadid launches Orebella fragrances

Updated 02 May 2024
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Bella Hadid launches Orebella fragrances

DUBAI: American fashion model Bella Hadid has launched a range of fragrances under her beauty brand, Orebella.

The entrepreneur, of Dutch and Palestinian descent, posted pictures of herself alongside the products — Salted Muse, Blooming Fire and Window2Soul — on Instagram.

The fragrances are available in 10, 50 and 100 mL bottles.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Orebella (@orebella)

Hadid described them as “hydrating, alcohol-free and enriched with essential oils.”

According to reports, the Salted Muse fragrance has top notes of sea salt, pink pepper and carbon dioxide extract, heart notes of olive tree accord, fig and lavender, and base notes of cedarwood, sandalwood and amber.

Blooming Fire has bergamot, cedarwood, clove leaf and cardamom, followed by Tahitian monoi and jasmine and finishes with patchouli.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Orebella (@orebella)

Window2Soul has a blend of lemon, geranium and mint in its top notes, transitions to jasmine and damask rose and ends with a base of tonka bean.

“For me, fragrance has always been at the center of my life, helping me feel in charge of who I am and my surroundings,” Hadid said on her website.

“From my home to nostalgic memories, to my own energy and connection with others, scent has been an outlet for me. It made me feel safe in my own world.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid)

“Through my healing journey, I found that I was extremely sensitive to the alcohol in traditional perfumes, both physically and mentally, it became something that was more overwhelming than calming to me.

“That is the main reason I wanted to find an alternative, so essential oils became an artistic and experimental process for me.”

Hadid said she started growing lavender on her farm and learned about her family’s tradition of making scents.

“I realized I might have a calling in this. I found healing, joy and love within nature’s scents.

“This is why I am so proud of Orebella. It was truly a dream and a passion that through the universe and authentic dedication was able to become this brand.”


Riyadh-based soap-maker Mayassem Tamim’s compelling chemistry of Saudi fragrances and flavors

Updated 02 May 2024
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Riyadh-based soap-maker Mayassem Tamim’s compelling chemistry of Saudi fragrances and flavors

  • Businesswoman uses locally-sourced ingredients, no chemicals
  • Olive oil, camel milk, honey, dates, Zamzam water key materials

RIYADH: Mayassem Tamim has had a passion for handmade soaps from a young age, and as an adult would search the globe for such products.

She discovered various products in several cities including Tripoli’s eco-friendly creations at Khan Al-Saboun and Provence’s boutique lavender offerings.

In 2018, Tamim decided to set up her own company, the Riyadh-based Mayassem, that produces luxury handmade soaps from Saudi Arabia-sourced natural ingredients.  (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

In 2018, she decided to set up her own company, the Riyadh-based Mayassem, that produces luxury handmade soaps from Saudi Arabia-sourced natural ingredients.

She told Arab News: “My hope is these soaps, at least a few of the ones that become traditional, are going to help establish something in Saudi Arabia that is considered pure to the region. It doesn’t have to be just my brand of soap, but it can be an industry that is localized.

“We’re doing everything new in Saudi Arabia. Why not this?”

Mayassem products have no harmful chemicals and are handcrafted at her home atelier using sustainable, organic ingredients to ensure that they are gentle on the skin. (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

Her products have no harmful chemicals and are handcrafted at her home atelier using sustainable, organic ingredients to ensure that they are gentle on the skin. The materials are locally sourced including extra-virgin olive oil from Al-Jouf, camel milk from Janadriyah, honey from Baha, and dates from Qassim.

She considers the soaps mini canvases, each splashed with a unique blend of non-toxic coloring inspired by their ingredients. The “Bliss” bar for example, made with Zamzam water and lavender fragrance, is crafted to resemble the Kaaba. The “Tamr” bar reflects the palette of the Saudi Arabia landscape as it features oud, saffron and turmeric fragrance, date paste, and camel milk.

“I know it’s a soap and not a painting but sometimes it is a feeling in me. I was very sad at the loss of a cousin, Rana, which in Arabic means song. So for one of my soaps, I decided to go with blue colors and called it ‘Celestial Melody.’ Sometimes it’s just things that simple,” the artisan said. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Mayassem (@mayassem_suds)

The soaps come in floral, fruity, woody, citrus, or unscented options. While their main categories are classic, seasonal and signature, she also crafts limited-edition soaps, including an 18-box drop featuring bars encrusted with crystals such as lapis lazuli and black onyx. The brand also offers hand-poured candles made with natural soy, coconut and beeswax, as well as hand cream.

“People can buy soap 10 times cheaper at the supermarket. If I’m not offering them something that adds to the moisturization, that is organic, that does not harm them, and remains beautiful as long as they’re using it, I might as well not start at all,” she said.

Mayassem soaps come in floral, fruity, woody, citrus, or unscented options. (AN Photo/Abdulrhman bin Shulhuob)

With her background in biology, the chemistry of soap-making came naturally to her. She began experimenting, with aesthetics and organic products in mind, over a couple of years until she began testing her final product on family and friends.

After retiring from the UN Development Program, Mayassem began investing her time in her business. Her products have been featured in shops at Jeddah’s Islamic Arts Biennale and Diriyah’s Contemporary Arts Biennale, various homegrown market locations, and pop-up stores.

“I think I’m living the best years of my life because I’m thoroughly working on something that I’m enjoying tremendously. Not to say that I did not enjoy my career. I was very happy with the work I did, but it was time to start a new chapter in my life,” she said.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Mayassem (@mayassem_suds)

While artisans have been embedded in local culture for ages, the brand aims to call attention to their value by keeping the business hand-crafted and artisanal in line with its ethos. “I don’t want it to become a job. I want it to stay a passion,” she said. “Artisans, whether they’re making soap, embroidery, or painting, bring out the value in a country. And we have different regions, so it also brings out the identity of a country.”


Robert De Niro’s publicist denies video shows actor shouting at Pro-Palestine supporters

Updated 02 May 2024
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Robert De Niro’s publicist denies video shows actor shouting at Pro-Palestine supporters

  • Footage shared online was scene from upcoming Netflix series, Stan Rosenfield says
  • ‘Someone copied the post and fabricated an entirely different and bogus meaning,’ he says

DUBAI: Robert De Niro’s publicist has shut down a rumor that a video clip widely shared online shows the 80-year-old actor confronting pro-Palestinian protesters in New York.

The 34-second clip has been shared on social media with the caption: “Robert De Niro stands with Israel!”

But publicist Stan Rosenfield told CNN that the Hollywood veteran was actually rehearsing a scene for his upcoming series in which he plays a former president.

“What you saw was a direct scene from the Netflix series ‘Zero Day,’ with Robert De Niro reading lines as written in the script,” he said.

The video was shot on the streets of New York on Saturday and in the clip, De Niro’s character was confronting a crowd of people, he said.

“Someone copied the post and fabricated an entirely different and bogus meaning,” he said.

Netflix supported the story, according to a report by Just Jared.

In the clip, De Niro yells at the crowd: “This is not a movie! This is not a movie! Move behind the barricade. You like talkin’ nonsense? Then you gotta go home!

“That’s dangerous and they say they’re gonna do it again! Again! You don’t want that. You don’t want that. None of us want that. C’mon. Let’s all get serious.”

The footage was shared by various pro-Israel accounts on social media with some claiming the words “They say they’re gonna do it again” were a reference to the Hamas attack on Israel on Oct. 7.
 


The Weeknd donates $2 million for humanitarian aid in Gaza 

Updated 02 May 2024
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The Weeknd donates $2 million for humanitarian aid in Gaza 

DUBAI: Canadian singer The Weeknd has pledged to donate another $2 million to help feed families in Gaza, the United Nations’s World Food Programme reported. 

The donation comes from the star’s XO Humanitarian Fund, which helps combat global hunger. 

“This support will provide over 1,500 metric tons of fortified wheat flour, which can make over 18 million loaves of bread that can help feed more than 157,000 Palestinians for one month,” said WFP.

In December, the multi-platinum global recording artist, whose given name is Abel Tesfaye, donated $2.5 million to WFP from the fund, which he established in partnership with World Food Program USA. That equated to 4 million emergency meals, funding 820 tons of food parcels that could feed more than 173,000 Palestinians for two weeks. 

Tesfaye, who was appointed a Goodwill Ambassador in October 2021, is an active supporter of WFP’s global hunger-relief mission. He, his partners and his fans have raised $6.5 million to date for the XO fund.

In total he has directed $4.5 million toward operations in Gaza and has sent $2 million to support WFP’s emergency food assistance for women and children in Ethiopia.