Small-town Pakistani chef known for innovative fish recipe eyes Middle East

Chef Abdul Jabbar Mallah poses with his famous 'sajji' fish in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021. (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)
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Updated 10 January 2021

Small-town Pakistani chef known for innovative fish recipe eyes Middle East

  • Abdul Jabbar Mallah uses a traditional slow-roasting meat recipe to cook fish instead
  • Says Pakistanis living abroad have encouraged him to open restaurant in countries with big South Asian expat populations

SANGHAR, SINDH: In the heart of Pakistan’s rural south, culinary innovation and social media have turned a small-town fish chef into a celebrity, attracting food writers and connoisseurs to the region from all over the country-- leading him to consider opening a fish stall in the Middle East.

Sajji, a way of slow roasting meat which is popular in the Sanghar district of Sindh and in neighboring Balochistan, is traditionally reserved for lamb and goat dishes, but Abdul Jabbar Mallah tried it on rohu, a freshwater fish species common to the region.

“I can make 20 fish dishes. However, people outside Sanghar didn’t know me. Due to social media, people not only in Pakistan but also living abroad have started knowing me,” Mallah told Arab News last week.

“Recently, I have started thinking about trying my luck in the Middle East,” he said. “Had there been no publicity through social media, it would have not become possible.”

Mallah has been cooking fish for two decades, but says it was only two years ago, when travel vloggers began visiting his stall, that his ‘fish sajji’ became a culinary magnet.




Fisherman vendor Piyar Ali Mallah poses with a ‘Rohu’ fish at a fish outlet in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021 (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

“Fish sajji was kind of my invention. It was the unique way of cooking fish that first drew attention on social media,” he said.

On New Year’s Eve, travel bloggers arrived in Sanghar for a tourism event in Baqaar Lake Resort, a recreational point and gateway to Achro Thar, the white desert of Sindh. Among them was Karachi-based traveler Maria Soomro.

“We have heard a lot about famous sajji, therefore we stopped here,” Soomro told Arab News. “It is an amazing place.”

Muhammad Amer Butt, a Lahore-based manager of a multinational company, told Arab News that he had been around the world, but had never tasted fish like Mallah’s sajji.

“First time I tasted it was two years ago when I was in Hyderabad for a business assignment,” Butt said. 

“My host specially ordered sajji fish from Sanghar which is 100 km away. Since then, whenever I visit Sindh, I taste (Mallah’s) sajji every time,” he said. 




Rohu fish left for sajji roasting at an outlet in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021. (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

“I have come to the conclusion that this sajji is the best fish offered anywhere in Pakistan. It is very light to eat. Its flavour makes you want to taste it again and again.” 

Pakistanis who live outside of Sindh order Mallah sajji to take away. Wrapped in aluminum foil, it will be good for ten hours or so, Mallah said. 

Pakistanis living abroad had also encouraged him to open a restaurant in other countries, he continued, because the demand for South Asian food is high in countries with big Pakistani expat populations, like Canada, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates.




Chef Abdul Jabbar Mallah readies to supply sajji fish at his fish outlet in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021. (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

Amir Rajpoot, a Sanghar-based influencer, said foodies on social media were always looking out for his food posts. 

“It is interesting...that whenever I post sajji posts on my Facebook account, unknown people contact me as they are curious about this unique style of fish cooking.”




Amir Rajpoot, a Sanghar-based social media influencer takes a selfie with Abdul Jabbar Mallah’s famous fish sajji in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021 (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

Food bloggers and vloggers from Quetta too were curious about Mallah’s cooking techniques and documented them in detail.




Shazia Khan, an Instagramer from Quetta, takes a bite out of Abdul Jabbar Mallah’s fish sajji on December 31, 2020 at the Jabbar food outlet in Sanghar, Sindh (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

After cleaning the fish and marinating it with salt, Mallah skewers it on wooden rods. The rods are stuck into the ground around a bonfire and left to roast for two hours. Then comes a special ingredient: sweet and sour tamarind chutney. It is used for that extra kick, Mallah said.

For his sajji, Mallah uses rohu, locally known as kuriro, a large carp fish species that measures half a meter on average. Usually, he said, he selects fish that weigh between two to three kg.

“People invite me especially for cooking on wedding parties, from all over Sindh, Balochistan and Punjab areas nearer to Sindh,” he said.

Another happy customer, Raja Sunil Kumar from Hyderabad, said he knew Mallah from social media and had visited his stall when he was in Sanghar. 

“I am taking 11 kg of fish for my family and friends,” he said.




Raja Sunil Kumar, a Hyderabad-based takeaway customer poses with sajji wrapped up in newspaper at Abdul Jabbar Mallah’s fish outlet in Sanghar, Sindh on January 08, 2021 (AN photo by Zulfiqar Kunbhar)

 

 


India, Pakistan held ‘secret talks’ to try to break Kashmir impasse 

Updated 14 April 2021

India, Pakistan held ‘secret talks’ to try to break Kashmir impasse 

  • Top intelligence officers from India and Pakistan met in Dubai in January 
  • Back channel diplomacy is aimed at a modest roadmap to normalizing ties over the next several months

NEW DELHI: Top intelligence officers from India and Pakistan held secret talks in Dubai in January in a new effort to calm military tension over the disputed Himalayan region of Kashmir, people with close knowledge of the matter told Reuters in Delhi.
Ties between the nuclear-armed rivals have been on ice since a suicide bombing of an Indian military convoy in Kashmir in 2019 traced to Pakistan-based militants that led to India sending warplanes to Pakistan.
Later that year, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi withdrew Indian-ruled Kashmir’s autonomy in order to tighten his grip over the territory, provoking outrage in Pakistan and the downgrading of diplomatic ties and suspension of bilateral trade.
But the two governments have re-opened a back channel of diplomacy aimed at a modest roadmap to normalizing ties over the next several months, the people said.
Kashmir has long been a flashpoint between India and Pakistan, both of which claim all of the region but rule only in part.
Officials from India’s Research and Analysis Wing, the external spy agency, and Pakistan’s Inter-Services Intelligence traveled to Dubai for a meeting facilitated by the United Arab Emirates government, two people said.
The Indian foreign ministry did not respond to a request for comment. Pakistan’s military, which controls the ISI, also did not respond.
But Ayesha Siddiqa, a top Pakistani defense analyst, said she believed Indian and Pakistan intelligence officials had been meeting for several months in third countries.
“I think there have been meetings in Thailand, in Dubai, in London between the highest level people,” she said.

’IT IS FRAUGHT’
Such meetings have taken place in the past too, especially during times of crises but never been publicly acknowledged.
“There is a lot that can still go wrong, it is fraught,” said one of the people in Delhi. “That is why nobody is talking it up in public, we don’t even have a name for this, it’s not a peace process. You can call it a re-engagement,” one of them said.
Both countries have reasons to seek a rapprochement. India has been locked in a border stand-off with China since last year and does not want the military stretched on the Pakistan front.
China-ally Pakistan, mired in economic difficulties and on an IMF bailout program, can ill-afford heightened tensions on the Kashmir border for a prolonged period, experts say. It also has to stabilize the Afghan border on its west as the United States withdraws.
“It’s better for India and Pakistan to talk than not talk, and even better that it should be done quietly than in a glare of publicity,” said Myra MacDonald, a former Reuters journalist who has just published a book on India, Pakistan and war on the frontiers of Kashmir.
.”..But I don’t see it going very far beyond a basic management of tensions, possibly to tide both countries over a difficult period — Pakistan needs to address the fall-out of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan, while India has to confront a far more volatile situation on its disputed frontier with China.”

DIALLING DOWN THE RHETORIC
Following the January meeting, India and Pakistan announced they would stop cross-border shooting along the Line of Control (LoC) dividing Kashmir which has left dozens of civilians dead and many others maimed. That cease-fire is holding, military officials in both countries said.
Both sides have also signalled plans to hold elections on their sides of Kashmir this year as part of efforts to bring normalcy to a region riven by decades of bloodshed.
The two have also agreed to dial down their rhetoric, the people Reuters spoke to said.
This would include Pakistan dropping its loud objections to Modi abrogating Kashmir’s autonomy in August 2019, while Delhi in turn would refrain from blaming Pakistan for all violence on its side of the Line of Control.
These details have not been previously reported. India has long blamed Pakistan for the revolt in Kashmir, an allegation denied by Pakistan.
“There is a recognition there will be attacks inside Kashmir, there has been discussions as to how to deal with it and not let this effort derailed by the next attack,” one of the people said.
There is as yet, however, no grand plan to resolve the 74-year-old Kashmir dispute. Rather both sides are trying to reduce tensions to pave the way for a broad engagement, all the people Reuters spoke to said.
“Pakistan is transiting from a geo-strategic domain to a geo-economic domain,” Raoof Hasan, special assistant to Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan, told Reuters.
“Peace, both within and around with its neighbors, is a key constituent to facilitate that.” 


India, Pakistan held ‘secret talks’ to try to break Kashmir impasse 

Updated 14 April 2021

India, Pakistan held ‘secret talks’ to try to break Kashmir impasse 

  • Top intelligence officers from India and Pakistan met in Dubai in January 
  • Back channel diplomacy is aimed at a modest roadmap to normalizing ties over the next several months

NEW DELHI: Top intelligence officers from India and Pakistan held secret talks in Dubai in January in a new effort to calm military tension over the disputed Himalayan region of Kashmir, people with close knowledge of the matter told Reuters in Delhi.
Ties between the nuclear-armed rivals have been on ice since a suicide bombing of an Indian military convoy in Kashmir in 2019 traced to Pakistan-based militants that led to India sending warplanes to Pakistan.
Later that year, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi withdrew Indian-ruled Kashmir’s autonomy in order to tighten his grip over the territory, provoking outrage in Pakistan and the downgrading of diplomatic ties and suspension of bilateral trade.
But the two governments have re-opened a back channel of diplomacy aimed at a modest roadmap to normalizing ties over the next several months, the people said.
Kashmir has long been a flashpoint between India and Pakistan, both of which claim all of the region but rule only in part.
Officials from India’s Research and Analysis Wing, the external spy agency, and Pakistan’s Inter-Services Intelligence traveled to Dubai for a meeting facilitated by the United Arab Emirates government, two people said.
The Indian foreign ministry did not respond to a request for comment. Pakistan’s military, which controls the ISI, also did not respond.
But Ayesha Siddiqa, a top Pakistani defense analyst, said she believed Indian and Pakistan intelligence officials had been meeting for several months in third countries.
“I think there have been meetings in Thailand, in Dubai, in London between the highest level people,” she said.

’IT IS FRAUGHT’
Such meetings have taken place in the past too, especially during times of crises but never been publicly acknowledged.
“There is a lot that can still go wrong, it is fraught,” said one of the people in Delhi. “That is why nobody is talking it up in public, we don’t even have a name for this, it’s not a peace process. You can call it a re-engagement,” one of them said.
Both countries have reasons to seek a rapprochement. India has been locked in a border stand-off with China since last year and does not want the military stretched on the Pakistan front.
China-ally Pakistan, mired in economic difficulties and on an IMF bailout program, can ill-afford heightened tensions on the Kashmir border for a prolonged period, experts say. It also has to stabilize the Afghan border on its west as the United States withdraws.
“It’s better for India and Pakistan to talk than not talk, and even better that it should be done quietly than in a glare of publicity,” said Myra MacDonald, a former Reuters journalist who has just published a book on India, Pakistan and war on the frontiers of Kashmir.
.”..But I don’t see it going very far beyond a basic management of tensions, possibly to tide both countries over a difficult period — Pakistan needs to address the fall-out of the US withdrawal from Afghanistan, while India has to confront a far more volatile situation on its disputed frontier with China.”

DIALLING DOWN THE RHETORIC
Following the January meeting, India and Pakistan announced they would stop cross-border shooting along the Line of Control (LoC) dividing Kashmir which has left dozens of civilians dead and many others maimed. That cease-fire is holding, military officials in both countries said.
Both sides have also signalled plans to hold elections on their sides of Kashmir this year as part of efforts to bring normalcy to a region riven by decades of bloodshed.
The two have also agreed to dial down their rhetoric, the people Reuters spoke to said.
This would include Pakistan dropping its loud objections to Modi abrogating Kashmir’s autonomy in August 2019, while Delhi in turn would refrain from blaming Pakistan for all violence on its side of the Line of Control.
These details have not been previously reported. India has long blamed Pakistan for the revolt in Kashmir, an allegation denied by Pakistan.
“There is a recognition there will be attacks inside Kashmir, there has been discussions as to how to deal with it and not let this effort derailed by the next attack,” one of the people said.
There is as yet, however, no grand plan to resolve the 74-year-old Kashmir dispute. Rather both sides are trying to reduce tensions to pave the way for a broad engagement, all the people Reuters spoke to said.
“Pakistan is transiting from a geo-strategic domain to a geo-economic domain,” Raoof Hasan, special assistant to Pakistani Prime Minister Imran Khan, told Reuters.
“Peace, both within and around with its neighbors, is a key constituent to facilitate that.” 


Babar hits 122 as Pakistan defeat South Africa by nine wickets

Updated 14 April 2021

Babar hits 122 as Pakistan defeat South Africa by nine wickets

  • He aslo dethroned Virat Kohli as the world’s top batsman in one-day cricket
  • Pakistan took a 2-1 lead in the four-match series

Centurion, South Africa: Pakistan captain Babar Azam gave a batting masterclass to lead Pakistan to a nine-wicket win in the third Twenty20 international against South Africa at SuperSport Park in Centurion on Wednesday.

Babar hit 122, his first T20 international century, as Pakistan chased down a challenging target of 204 with two overs to spare.

Babar, who earlier Wednesday dethroned Indian maestro Virat Kohli as the world’s top batsman in one-day cricket, hit 15 fours and four sixes in an exhibition of superb timing and placement before he was out with only seven runs needed.

Mohammad Rizwan scored an unbeaten 73 in a Pakistan record first wicket partnership of 197.

Pakistan took a 2-1 lead in the four-match series.


Pakistan bowl in third T20 international against South Africa 

Updated 14 April 2021

Pakistan bowl in third T20 international against South Africa 

  • Batsman Fakhar Zaman recovered from illness and is back on the pitch
  • The four-match series is tied at 1-1 

Centurion, South Africa: Pakistan won the toss and decided to bowl in the third Twenty20 international against South Africa at SuperSport Park in Centurion on Wednesday.
The four-match series is tied at 1-1.
Leading batsman Rassie van der Dussen had recovered from a quad muscle injury and replaced the inexperienced Wihan Lubbe that won the second match in Johannesburg by six wickets on Monday.
Pakistan made three changes. Hard-hitting batsman Fakhar Zaman had recovered from illness and replaced Sharjeel Khan, while batsman Asif Ali came in for leg-spinner Usman Qadir in what captain Babar Azam said was a move to strengthen the middle-order batting.
Haris Rauf replaced fellow fast bowler Mohammad Hasnain.
South African captain Heinrich Klaasen said he would also have chosen to bowl if he had won the toss.
“It looks a good wicket. If there is anything in it, it will be up front,” he said. 


Approved in Pakistan: CanSinoBIO says no serious blood clots from its vaccine

Updated 14 April 2021

Approved in Pakistan: CanSinoBIO says no serious blood clots from its vaccine

  • US recommended pausing use of similar vaccine from Johnson & Johnson after 6 women got rare blood clots
  • CanSinoBIO’s Ad5-nCoV vaccine is approved in China, Hungary, Chile and Pakistan

BEIJING: China’s CanSino Biologics Inc. said on Wednesday that no serious blood clot cases had been reported in people inoculated with its single-dose COVID-19 vaccine, which is approved for emergency use in Pakistan.
US federal health agencies recommended on Tuesday that use of a similar one-shot vaccine from Johnson & Johnson be paused after six women developed rare blood clots.
CanSinoBIO’s shares fell as much as 13.7% and 18.4% in Shanghai and Hong Kong respectively.
They pared losses to close down 6.3% and 7.7% each after the company issued a statement in which it said: “No blood clot related serious adverse events have been reported in around one million vaccinations of Ad5-nCoV.”
CanSinoBIO’s Ad5-nCoV vaccine is approved in China, Hungary, Chile and Pakistan.
European regulators this month said they had found a possible link between AstraZeneca Plc’s vaccine and a similar rare blood clotting problem.
Several countries have since limited the AstraZeneca vaccine’s use to certain age groups, while the European Medicines Agency (EMA) said the benefits outweigh the risks.
Experts said clotting risks for both vaccines remain extremely low and they are highly effective in providing protection against COVID-19, amid concern that reports of the rare side effects could deter people from getting their shots.
“There are other vaccines in clinical use where rare side effects are reported – rotavirus, measles, yellow fever. Yet the vaccines save hundreds of thousands of lives,” said Jerome Kim, director general of the International Vaccine Institute.
“We are looking at rare events ... Countries need to assess the risk of vaccination against the known risk of not vaccinating.”
COVID-19 vaccines from J&J, AstraZeneca, CanSinoBIO and Russia’s Gamaleya Institute uses an adenovirus, a harmless cold virus, as a vector to deliver instructions for human cells to produce part of the coronavirus that can spur the immune system to recognize and attack the actual virus.