Morocco artisans fear ‘knockout punch’ from virus

Artisans have been starved of income for almost three months because of the pandemic. (AFP)
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Updated 07 June 2020
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Morocco artisans fear ‘knockout punch’ from virus

  • Artisans have been starved of income for almost three months because of the COVID-19 pandemic

RABAT: Pottery, basketwork and wrought-iron furniture pile up in the deserted stalls of the Oulja arts and crafts complex in Sale near the Moroccan capital Rabat.

Artisans have been starved of income for almost three months because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

“Coronavirus is the knockout punch: without help, without support, our profession will disappear,” said Youssef Rghalmi, a 49-year-old potter.

In the family workshop, where skills have been handed down from generation to generation, the clay has dried up, the oven is turned off and the nine employees no longer turn up for work.

The last order, for a customer from France who called off her visit because of border closures, is gathering dust in a corner.




A Moroccan potter displays his work at a shop in the city of Sale, north of the capital Rabat. (AFP)

"We were already struggling to survive because lifestyles have changed," said Mohamed Touel, a master carver of “gebs” decorative plaster.

“Traditional trades are being lost because young people don’t want to take over.”

The enterprising 62-year-old had added a small restaurant to his shop but it closed because of lockdown measures imposed since mid-March.

Foreign tourists have vanished, the lockdown has paralysed economic life and local customers “have other priorities,” Ahmed Driouch said in his store cluttered with copper lamps, ceramics, daggers, jewelry, inlaid chests and carpets.

Business has been “two hundred percent affected by the virus,” he said, grimly forecasting it would take “at least two or three years” to return to normal.




A Moroccan rug dealer cleans a carpet at a shop. (AFP)

Upstairs, employees dusted some 10,000 carpets in stock, one by one.

“We must clean everything even if, for now, nobody’s coming,” one of them said ruefully, vacuum cleaner in hand.

Minister of Tourism and Handicrafts Nadia Fettah has proposed ideas such as exhibition spaces in supermarkets to revive a sector that provides employment to two million people.

That includes about 230,000 traditional artisans.

The crafts industry represents around seven percent of GDP, with an export turnover last year of nearly $100 million.

Despite their role in the economy, artisans work without social security cover and with a limited distribution network, much of it through word of mouth, like elsewhere in North Africa.




A Moroccan rug weaver creates a carpet at a workshop in the city of Sale. (AFP)

The 30 women who weave rugs for a small cooperative called “Creative Woman” in Sale have all lost their meagre incomes.

Weavers work eight hours a day for barely $100 a month “when the carpets are sold” and they “have nothing left because there has not been a single sale in three months,” explained Rachida Nabati.

The energetic woman in her 40s, who has been a weaver since the age of seven, has been forced to borrow from friends to supplement her modest earnings from a vegetable garden next to her shack.

In the cooperative, some have been bailed out by a state coronavirus emergency fund, while many others “can no longer pay their rent.”

“We have to sell on the internet but we don’t know how to do that,” said the mother who taught herself to read and write.

“A digital platform was launched for artisans a few years ago, but it doesn’t work,” master plasterer Mohamed Touel said.

In Tunisia, the National Office of Handicrafts has been working on an electronic platform for sales in Europe and has organised small exhibitions in hotels.

It also encourages artisans to launch Facebook pages or electronic sites.

But Sabiha, a potter in the Tunisian rural town of Sejnan whose works are on UNESCO’s list of “intangible cultural heritage,” said she cannot “even afford to recharge” her mobile phone.


Where We Are Going Today: Agio in Riyadh

Updated 59 min 29 sec ago
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Where We Are Going Today: Agio in Riyadh

RIYADH: If you are looking for high-end Italian food in Riyadh with an ambience as great as the menu, Agio is the place to go. Tucked into The Canopy in central Riyadh in the Hittin neighborhood, Agio is a great location for those looking for Italian that is farther away from heavy traffic on the weekends.

The restaurant draws inspiration from the Amalfi Coast of Italy, with the flavors, colors and aroma of Capri making its way into the Agio experience. Agio describes itself as “the celebration of food of the Capri coast” as its menu blends traditional dishes with new flavors and innovative twists.

When entering, you can choose to either sit on the upstairs outdoor terrace or at the indoor tables downstairs. If you are going when the weather is pleasant, I would certainly recommend sitting upstairs, as the scenery, view and decor is unbeatable.

For the menu, I would opt for appetizers like the bresaola, which costs SR112 ($30) — it is a great starter for a classic Italian dinner as it blends flavors of Spanish beef with parmesan. If you are looking for a carb and creamy starter instead, Agio’s sformato di patate is a delicious option.

Priced at SR38, the appetizer brings together baked potatoes with a warm creamy cheese sauce. The menu offers other appetizers with many including soup, calamari and salad.

Limoncello Tiramisù. (Supplied)

Their baby calamari (SR132) and Flamengo tomato soup (SR45) are both worth trying if you are looking for more appetizers for the table.

Moving onto mains, the pasta and ravioli menus are excitingly diverse. With a vast array of options to choose from, I would order multiple options to share for the table as you do not want to limit yourself to one dish.

A favorite of mine would be the rigatoni piccanti (SR95), which blends creamy pink sauce with spicy aromas from the chili sauce. For truffle lovers, Agio offers both a ravioli and risotto option. Risotto al tartufo (SR275) is a classic creamy risotto shaved black truffle. For those who favor a good ravioli, the truffle & pecorino ravioli (SR115) is a creamier option due to the soft ricotta filling.

Agio offers a vast menu for mains which ranges from the pastas listed above to many more, as well pizza, meat, fish and chicken selections. The veal Milanese (SR210) and branzino di sofia (SR185) are great protein-based dishes to pair alongside your selected pastas and pizzas.

Be sure to save some space for dessert because Agio’s dessert menu truly brings a taste of Capri to the table.

If you are looking to dive into the zesty lemon flavors of the Amalfi Coast, I recommend either the torta della nonna (SR70) or the limoncello tiramisu (SR105). The torta della nonna is a nutty and lemony pastry dessert option, whereas the limoncello tiramisu is a soft mascarpone cream dish. For those looking to try more traditional dessert options, I would opt for the classic tiramisu.

While Agio is a delicious option for anyone looking to try a Capri-style restaurant in Riyadh, the restaurant is certainly on the higher-end price wise; but if you are willing to spend a little extra, Agio’s menu is worth the visit.