Savory to sweet, iftar at Beirut’s Em Sherif Café is a treat

The eatery is famous for its uncomplicated Lebanese fare. (Photo supplied)
Updated 04 June 2018
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Savory to sweet, iftar at Beirut’s Em Sherif Café is a treat

BEIRUT: Ever since Em Sherif Café opened near Beirut’s Zeitouna Bay two years ago, it has been the place to see and be seen.

The establishment is owned by the charismatic Mireille Hayek, the diva of Lebanese cuisine who opened her first restaurant, La Parilla, in 2006. She sealed her reputation as a golden restaurateur with Em Sherif, which means the mother of Sherif, Hayek’s own son.

The concept of this eponymous cafe is grounded in traditional family values. “We are a family who loves to eat. You just have to look at me,” Hayek says, breaking into a hearty laugh. “I have always loved to cook. I cook at home for my family and friends. The recipe for success is simple, you just need good food and good service.”

She insists that the food served at Em Sherif Café is home cooking at its best, “I like authenticity in Lebanese food. There is no room for fusion.”

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This year, a delicious appetizer called the “ajina bil awarma,” a pie stuffed with small chunks of fat-coated meat, features on the iftar and suhoor menu for the first time. Hungry diners can also enjoy a range of traditional Ramadan favorites, including soups, fattoush and fatayer — pastries stuffed with meat, cheese and spinach.

For those who favor a light iftar, the eatery offers a delicious spicy chicken. The presentation of this dish — and this can be said of all the dishes served at the restaurant — is superb. A long, rounded chili crowns the spicy chicken, accompanied by two little square bowls of sauce, including the addictive hot sauce.

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To end the meal, those with a sweet tooth can opt for the pistachio brioche, which consists of a thick layer of crushed pistachios topped with ice cream, delicately sandwiched into a brioche and then popped into a hot oven.

With up to 800 customers a day, it is no wonder that the café is a must-try this Ramadan if you are lucky enough to find yourself in Beirut.


REVIEW: ‘Shrinking’ season three flounders but Harrison Ford still shines

Updated 19 February 2026
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REVIEW: ‘Shrinking’ season three flounders but Harrison Ford still shines

DUBAI: In its first two seasons, “Shrinking” offered a smartly written, emotionally intelligent look at loss, therapy and the general messiness of human connection through the story of grieving therapist Jimmy (Jason Segel) — whose wife died in a tragic accident — and the village of flawed but recognizably human characters helping to heal him. Season three struggles to move forward with the same grace and thoughtfulness. It’s as though, encouraged by early praise, it has started believing its own hype.

For those familiar with co-creator Bill Lawrence’s other juggernaut, “Ted Lasso,” it’s a painfully familiar trajectory. That comedy also floundered in its third season. Emotional moments were resolved too quickly in favor of bits and once-complex characters were diluted into caricatures of themselves. “Shrinking” looks like it’s headed in the same direction.

The season’s central theme is “moving forward” — onward from grief, onward from guilt, and onward from the stifling comfort of the familiar. On paper, this is fertile ground for a show that deftly deals with human emotions. Jimmy is struggling with his daughter’s impending move to college and the loneliness of an empty nest, while also negotiating a delicate relationship with his own father (Jeff Daniels). Those around him are also in flux. 

But none of it lands meaningfully. The gags come a mile a minute and the actors overextend themselves trying to sound convincing. They’ve all been hollowed out to somehow sound bizarrely like each other.

Thankfully, there is still Harrison Ford as Paul, the gruff senior therapist grappling with Parkinson’s disease who is also Jimmy’s boss. His performance is devastatingly moving — one of his best — and the reason why the show can still be considered a required watch. Michael J. Fox also appears as a fellow Parkinson’s patient, and the pair are an absolute delight to watch together.

A fourth season has already been greenlit. Hopefully, despite its quest to keep moving forward, the show pauses long enough to find its center again. At its best, “Shrinking” is a deeply moving story about the pleasures and joys of community, and we could all use more of that.