GENEVA: The World Health Organization is backing away from its own call two years ago for taxing sugary drinks, in a new report that some experts slammed as being “conspicuously limp.”
In 2016, the UN health agency urged countries to tax sugar-laden drinks like sodas and sport drinks as a way to fight obesity and diabetes. Back then, it said a 20 percent price increase in such drinks would dramatically cut consumption.
But in a report published Friday, WHO experts pointedly dropped any recommendation to tax sugary beverages. WHO said that regarding sugar taxation, “some views were conflicting and could not be resolved.”
Jack Winkler, an emeritus professor of nutrition policy at London Metropolitan University, said that amid the rising obesity epidemic, WHO’s failure to recommend sugar taxation was “particularly absurd.”
UN health agency backs away from call to tax sugary drinks
UN health agency backs away from call to tax sugary drinks
Recipes for Success: Chef Antonio De Crecchio offers advice and a gnocchi with duck ragu recipe
DUBAI: Antonio De Crecchio began his career back in 2006, working as a pizza chef in Naples, Italy. He was, he says, just 14 years old.
“I’ve always loved food and cooking, but that’s when I truly fell in love with cooking,” he tells Arab News. “My first boss was tough on me, but it taught me a lot about handling the job and pushing myself to get better.”
He continued to work as a pizza chef at various Rossopomodoro outlets across the UK, including London, Birmingham, and Newcastle, before returning to Italy to lead the team at Rossopomodoro in Torino and Milano. In 2019, he moved to the UAE, taking a job as pizza chef at Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Dubai. He is currently executive chef of Amò at Via Toledo in Dubai’s Address Beach Resort.
“Working here has been emotional for me,” he says. “After spending many years in a casual dining restaurant, opening a fine dining restaurant feels like reaching a higher level,” he said.
Here, De Crecchio — affectionately known as Chef Toto — discusses tips for amateur chefs, his love for Italian cuisine, and his most challenging dish.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs cooking at home?
Invest in a Bimby. It’s a great tool for making pizza dough, ensuring that the result matches what you’d get at a restaurant. Plus it saves a lot of time, allowing you to focus on other tasks. Making dough correctly requires a lot of experience, so having the right equipment can make a big difference.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
Yes. Often.
And what’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
One thing I notice, especially with Italian food, is that the pasta is not always cooked al dente, as it should be. This can be challenging for me because I have a strong preference for the traditional Italian food that my grandma used to make.
What’s your favorite cuisine when you go out?
My favorite cuisine is Italian, especially pasta. It reminds me of my home country and brings back fond memories.
What customer request or behavior most annoys you?
The requests that annoy me the most are when they ask for pasta with chicken and pizza with pineapple.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
My favorite dish to cook is pasta, because it reminds me of Sundays back home when my mom used to prepare it for our family lunches.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
The most challenging dish for me to perfect is our egg dish. It requires cooking at a low temperature to maintain a soft interior, and achieving the right texture for the foam that accompanies it is crucial. If you don’t achieve the exact balance, then the dish loses its identity.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
As a head chef, I prioritize discipline, but I avoid shouting at my staff. In the kitchen, maintaining both discipline and empathy with my team is essential for success.
Chef Antonio’s gnocchi with duck ragu
INGREDIENTS
1kg potatoes; 100g parmesan cheese; 15g salt; 1 egg; 375g all-purpose flour; 1kg duck legs; 250g carrots, chopped; 250g white onion, chopped; 250g celery, chopped
INSTRUCTIONS
For the duck ragu:
1. Heat a pot on the stove until it reaches smoking point. Add blended oil.
2. Season the skin side of the duck legs with salt. Sear them until the outer surface of the meat is scorched, then transfer to a deep tray, cover them with their fat and place in the oven at 150°C for two hours.
3. In the same pot used for searing, add the celery, white onion and carrots to the duck fat and deglaze with approximately 4 liters of chicken stock.
4. Bring the stock to a boil, then slowly add each leg to the boiling stock.
5. Transfer the stock and duck legs into a large oven dish and heat in the oven at 160°C for two hours.
6. Remove the dish from the oven, take the duck legs out of the liquid and gently pull the meat from the duck legs, setting it aside.
7. Transfer the remaining liquid to a pot and reduce for one hour.
8. Allow the reduction to cool down, then mix it with the duck meat to prepare the duck ragu.
For the gnocchi
1. Steam the potatoes until tender, then mash.
2. Add grated parmesan cheese, salt, egg, and flour, and combine to form a dough.
3. Roll the dough into ropes and cut it into small pieces to form gnocchi.
4. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the gnocchi until they float to the surface. Remove and set aside.
5. Toast the cooked gnocchi with butter and additional parmesan cheese in a pan until lightly browned.
6. Plate the gnocchi and top with the prepared duck ragu.
Where We Are Going Today: Mr Chow, a Chinese restaurant in Riyadh
If you are a fan of Chinese cuisine, you must check out Mr Chow’s restaurant, which opened in the King Abdullah Financial District in Riyadh.
Specializing in real Chinese food, Mr Chow is located in the district’s upscale neighborhood, close to Zuma Lounge. Valet parking is available for your convenience.
The smart venue is open daily for dinner and it’s exactly the sort of grand, modern spot you’d expect in the area. The glossy black entrance with neon artwork opens up to two floors of sprawling seats with white tablecloths, a spiral staircase, and staff in immaculate white outfits.
Entering this establishment, you will be greeted with excellent service and a romantic atmosphere.
The appetizers are a taste adventure in and of themselves You can begin your culinary journey with an appetizer of pot stickers, chicken satay, or glazed prawns with walnuts.
Following starters, opt for the Ma Mignon, a traditional tender fillet mignon served with fried rice on the side, or the fresh lobster. For dessert, be sure to try the rich chocolate cake.
The food is presented wonderfully. You will love watching the chef skillfully work the dough live to make noodles. While enjoying your dinner, you can choose to sit outside and take in the stunning view of the financial district’s tall buildings and contemporary architecture.
Who is Mr Chow?
Michael Chow, founder and owner of the Mr Chow restaurant chain, is an actor, interior designer, artist, and British-Chinese restaurateur.
On Valentine’s Day 1968, London saw the opening of the first Mr Chow restaurant, where elite chefs served real Beijing cuisine along with novel creations, including Ma Mignon.
For half a century, clients have enjoyed watching the nightly handmade noodle show at all of the locations, and on the menu is one of the best-prepared Beijing ducks in the world.
For more details, visit @mrchowriyadh.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Kunafa Azmiah’
- Their menu features a variety of original kunafa options, including the classic version as well as a crispy cream fingers that promises the same great taste with a unique twist
Choose from a variety of sweets from Kunafa Azmiah to indulge your senses with an Arabic sweet flavor. The store specializes in producing the Arabic sweet kunafa in a variety of forms, including soft, hard and in tiny, bite-sized versions.
Indulge in the finest kunafa, carefully designed to satisfy the authentic Saudi taste.
Kunafa is served piping hot from the oven, ensuring that each bite is a delightful experience. They use only the finest cream to create a luxurious filling that perfectly harmonizes the crispy pastry layers. 
Their menu features a variety of original kunafa options, including the classic version as well as a crispy cream fingers that promises the same great taste with a unique twist.
For those craving extra sweetness, they offer kunafa topped with a delightful combination of shira (sugar syrup) and pistachios.
Their carefully guarded cooking techniques and premium ingredients ensure that every bite is a tasty masterpiece.
Many visitors opt for the hard kunafa, as it is crunchy but also melts in the mouth.
Whether it is a casual gathering or a formal event, kunafa is the perfect choice to impress your guests. Pair it with authentic Arabic coffee for a truly memorable experience.
The business now has 22 locations in Riyadh and branches are open in Jeddah and Dammam as well.
The brand’s packaging is well-designed and practical. The kunafa is served with spoons and a pie knife and is housed in a blue box with sugar syrup on the side. This packaging makes the kunafa a fantastic food to bring to parties and social gatherings.
The cost is about SR65 ($18). Go to @Azmih.kunafa on Instagram for additional details.
Recipes for success: Chef Lorenzo Buccarini offers advice and a pasta and caviar recipe
DUBAI: “I discovered my passion for cooking at a young age, being drawn to the sights and smells from my family’s kitchen,” Zenon Dubai’s executive chef Lorenzo Buccarini tells Arab News. “My earliest memory of cooking is helping my grandmother prepare lasagna. Those moments ignited a lifelong love affair with the culinary arts.”.
Zenon, located at Kempinski Central Avenue in the heart of Downtown Dubai, offers Mediterranean and Asian cuisine.
“Working with Zenon Dubai has been an enriching experience filled with creativity and collaboration, allowing me to push boundaries,” said Buccarini.
From the vibrant culinary scene of London in 2012 to Istanbul in 2014, Bali in 2016, and Morocco in 2018, Buccarini has dabbled in an array of cuisines over the years. Here, he discusses his go-to dish, favorite cuisine and most challenging dish to prepare.
Q: When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
A: Underestimating the importance of proper seasoning. Achieving the perfect balance of flavors is essential in every dish, and mastering seasoning techniques was a valuable lesson early in my career.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Invest in quality ingredients and don’t be afraid to experiment. Additionally, learn fundamental cooking techniques such as knife skills and proper seasoning, as they form the foundation of any great dish.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Fresh herbs — whether it’s parsley, basil, cilantro, or thyme, incorporating fresh herbs adds depth and complexity to your cooking. They elevate the flavor of any dish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
Naturally, as a chef, I pay attention to the details if I’m dining out.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
Something I often notice is inconsistency in execution — whether it’s undercooked proteins, over-seasoned dishes, or lackluster presentation. Consistency is key to delivering memorable dining experiences.
And what’s your favorite cuisine when you go out?
I do enjoy exploring different cuisines, but if I had to choose a favorite, it would have to be classic Italian cuisine. There’s something inherently comforting and soul-satisfying about dishes like homemade pasta or a perfectly cooked risotto that never fails to delight the palate.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Spaghetti aglio e olio. It’s a simple yet flavorful pasta dish made with garlic, olive oil, chili flakes, and parsley. It’s quick to prepare and showcases the beauty of minimalistic Italian cooking.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
It can be frustrating when customers request significant modifications to a dish without considering the integrity of the recipe. While accommodating dietary restrictions is important, excessive alterations can compromise the intended flavors and balance of the dish.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
One of them is osso buco. It’s a classic Italian dish made with braised veal shanks, aromatic vegetables, and a rich tomato-based sauce. The slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld together beautifully, resulting in a dish that’s hearty, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
For me, mastering the perfect risotto has always been a challenge. Achieving the ideal balance of creaminess and texture while ensuring the rice is cooked to perfection requires precision and attention to detail. It’s a dish that demands patience and practice to get just right.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
I try to maintain a balance between discipline and approachability. I do set high standards for my team, and I expect professionalism in the kitchen, but I believe in fostering a supportive and collaborative environment. Effective communication and mutual respect are essential for success in any kitchen.
Chef Lorenzo’s pasta, cream reduction and caviar
INGREDIENTS
For the cream reduction: 1L double cream; 500g dried porcini; 1L water
For the fresh pasta (can be substituted for store-bought pasta): 600g semolina flour; 1400g 00 flour; 8 fresh eggs; 300g water
INSTRUCTIONS
1. To reduce the cream, add it to a pan and gradually reduce the heat to a slow boil, stirring frequently. As the water boils off, the cream will be reduced. You want to reduce it by half. Then place the pan to one side.
2. For mushroom stock, add the dried porcini to a pan with the water and simmer for one hour. Strain immediately. Reduce the stock by ¾.
3. For the pasta, mix all ingredients together to make a dough. Put in the fridge for one hour. Remove from the fridge and shape it as you like (here at the restaurant we do rigatoni). You can just use standard, store-bought pasta too.
4. Cook the pasta in boiling water for five or six minutes (or as instructed for store-bought pasta), then drain.
5. Put 250g of the cream reduction and 20g of reduced mushrooms into a hot shallow pan. Add a pinch of salt. Add the pasta to the sauce. Stir. Add a little parmesan and top with caviar.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Abou El-Sid’ authentic Egyptian restaurant in Jeddah
- Abou El-Sid truly offered an immersive and delightful culinary experience
As a food enthusiast eager to explore diverse cuisines, I recently visited Abou El-Sid, an authentic Egyptian restaurant in Jeddah.
The ambiance welcomed me with dim lighting, maroon walls, and nostalgic portraits of iconic figures from Egypt’s golden age of cinema.
I began with the lisan asfour soup, its flavorful broth setting the stage for the feast ahead. For mains, I enjoyed traditional dishes like molokheya, mixed grill, and mahashi, each bursting with authentic flavors.
To accompany my meal, I couldn’t resist the mumbar, a savory delight of lamb intestines stuffed with rice and spices.
Opting for outdoor seating, I basked in the warm sun and tranquil atmosphere, enhanced by classic Egyptian melodies playing softly in the background. Abou El-Sid truly offered an immersive and delightful culinary experience.
Who is Abou El-Sid?
In the heart of Fatimid Cairo resided a humble yet legendary cook, Al-Sayyed Abou El-Sid. Renowned for his exquisite dishes, influenced by the Ottoman Empire and Egypt’s rich gastronomic heritage, his culinary masterpieces attracted admirers from far and wide. Even the sultan, after tasting his creations in disguise, offered him a prestigious position as his chef.
However, Abou El-Sid realized that palace life couldn’t replace the warmth of his humble home. Despite the sultan’s refusal to let him go, he eventually escaped, leaving behind his culinary secrets in a book.
Centuries later, his book was discovered, inspiring an authentic Egyptian restaurant named after him. Today, Abou El-Sid’s legacy lives on through the restaurant, delighting diners with genuine Egyptian cuisine rooted in his timeless recipes.
For more details, visit @abouelsid_ksa on Instagram.
